Gary Lewis

Good question! I think it is just a matter of terminology. As for lift range, they do appear to be limited. And I wouldn't plan to take one in the truck. Only for working on it. Both of these pics come from Amazon. Both are Powerbuilt. The left one says Unijack and the right All-In-One. Go figure.

Or the jack/stand combo's? https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-640912-Black-All-Bottle/dp/B003ULZGFU

YES, it DOES! And with the stands up that high. Yipes!

Yes, I see the position of the van and the # of stops before it gets here. Pretty fancy. Be careful with the jack and stands. Please!

Amazon does some of its own delivery here, and we frequently have next-day delivery. Can't tell about the inside of the rotor, but it doesn't look too bad. To paraphrase the catch phrase from Are You Being Served, it'll clean up with wear. Yes, you might get the shackles and shocks swapped while you wait - assuming you can get things loose. But won't you need your jack?

That is a steal. Shame it doesn't have A/C. But it is still a LOT of truck for the price.

You can see quite a bit of the action going on with the vacuum motors by looking up under the dash or pulling the glove box liner and looking through there. Hopefully you can see what is happening - or not - and maybe it is an easier fix than the blend door.

That makes more sense than my assumption.

Jim - I hope you can get this done before the next storm comes in! It is apparently coming through here now and headed your way. And, I hope the rotors can be salvaged. Good luck!

Jesse - We are pretty laid back on things, except for the step of getting you to the New Members Start Here folder. That's a key, as previously said. Anyway, you'll fit right in. Glad you are here.

Scott - I'll pull the three 1/4" headed screws tomorrow and check it out. But I could have sworn that the legs snapped in on mine. Better safe than sorry. Thanks.

Jesse - Before we get into details, I'd appreciate it if you'd follow the directions given in the email you received, which said "Please go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread/topic in that folder about yourself and your truck." All members are held to those guidelines. So we ask everyone that comes in to go there, read the guidelines, and then post an introduction in that folder. We cannot force you to read them, but at least having been on the same page as the guidelines there's a reasonable chance that you will. And we've banned members who wouldn't adhere to the guidelines, and we don't want that to happen to you. Now for the questions. If the new alternator is only capable of generating 70 amps then you don't need to make any changes. The shunt is sized to handle up to 70 amps, so you should be good to go. And I don't see a need to change any of the fuse links. If you aren't adding anything in the truck that pulls more current, then there's no need to change the wiring supplying that current to the truck. As for the pics, check out the info here: Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. Basically the issue is that the forum's software, like most forum software, isn't smart enough to read the orientation info your camera put in the metadata in the file. So you need to open the pic in editing software and then save it. The editing software usually reads the metadata and orients the file properly. So if you then save it the orientation is usually correct.

Somewhere Jonathan has a how-to on replacing the blend door's hinge. And I'm not finding it. Perhaps you can? But you don't have to remove the dash, although it isn't fun. Anyway, glad the bushing help. Maybe you can get the rest of them done tomorrow.

I can take a pic of another column, if that's what you mean. Oh, maybe take a pic of an automatic column's lower bearing retainer and then the same pic of a lower bearing retainer for a manual tranny's column. Is that what you mean?

The thing I've circled is for sure an EGR valve. It should not be plumbed to the PCV valve, but for now you should disconnect it and plug the end of the hose as well as where it was connected. I say that because if you put vacuum to a good EGR valve it will introduce exhaust gas at idle, and it is not supposed to do that. So we need to figure out if the gasket is bad or if someone mis-connected it and that's the problem. And I've added arrows showing the flow here:

That's my thinking as well, Scott. But I needed someone else to confirm it. I'm going to check more closely tomorrow, but I like it the way it is since the ring covers the exposed bearings. It does catch on the other end of the bearing, but I'll show you that tomorrow with pics. And those pics may be closeups. I'll fire up the OLD camera that has an awesome macro and get some good shots. The questions I can think of are if the ring drags on the bearing retainer and if it catches well on the bearing. Any more you can think of?

The "Ford crew" guys?

Looks good!

E6TZ 9920092-A Stationary design 84/on B 80/on F100/350, U150 88/on F(Super Duty) 83/on R

That is a good price, and free shipping. Could be painted to match.

D8AZ 9D653-C (CX-232-A) r/b E5TZ 9D653-A F100/250 — w/single fuel tank-exc, Calif, emission 300 six F100/350 — w/dual fuel tanks-Calif, emission 300 six F100 — w/dual fuel tanks 230 six Primary and secondary

Interesting. The first link is an E0TZ 17255-C, which doesn't show in the MPC. But, what does show is an E1TZ, and there has to have been an E0TZ, so I'm sure it is correct. Anyway, here are the listings:

EOTZ 19B888-B 80/82 F-U100/350 - - w/integral A/C or dealer installed A/C with Hi-Low vent

It says that it works with the stock fuel sender. You are right, Cory, and I'm wrong.

Yes, $1K is not bad.