Gary Lewis

Drop a Bullnose front clip on that, and the vast majority of the people won't know the difference to our trucks - in spite of the front & rear wheelwells not matching and the dash being entirely different.

Max - Welcome! Glad the documentation is helping. But whatever you used, you sure did a wonderful job on that truck. It looks great! What part of Germany are you in? I ask for two reasons. First, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd love to add you. Second, my wife and I've been to Germany many times and are curious if we've been there. We've been to Berlin, Munich, Frankfurt, Nuremberg, Rostock, and along the Rhine and down the Danube. Anyway, welcome!!!!

What did that do to the shipping cost?

That IS a nice truck! Being a "west coast truck" there's a remote chance that it is one of the CA-spec 460's with EEC-V, which would give it a mass airflow sensor and sequential fuel injection. Otherwise it is EEC-IV with speed density and bank-fire. That works well, just not quite as well.

Yes, that could be really handy! Like yesterday. I was pulling the block-off plates in the kick panels to add the vents. With my Ridgid 1/4" right angle driver I could get two of the four on either side as the head was two big for the other two. But I'll bet that one would have worked for all of them.

Excellent! My nephew and I are anxious to see how it works. I recently almost purchased a Fluke for more than twice that price, and it doesn't do as much as that thing does. Please let us know how it goes.

Well, that's strange! If your voltage is showing mid-14's then the alternator and regulator are working properly. With the lights in the dash going out I'm going to guess that you don't have voltage to the ignition switch and, therefore, it can't pull the starter relay in. Why is why it won't start. But if the lights come back on by themselves it seems like something is getting hot and losing connectivity. Then cooling and connecting again. I don't remember having a bad connection like that, but that is my guess - a bad connection at the battery or starter relay. Check your connections there, including the grounds.

In Arkansas.

He hasn't, but is still thinking of it. Maybe you should be the tester for us?

This Fluke does: https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/electrical-testing/digital-multimeters/fluke-289. But at $650..... But, the Pokitmeter has intrigued me: https://pokitmeter.com/. At $89 it sure looks good. My nephew put me onto it. Let me see if he bought one......

I think it is the original kick panel that's badly faded. But you are right, the new kick panel is not the right color - in spite of the seller telling me he was shipping me a matched set. I think I'll wind up using SEM on the new panels as they aren't faded and crumbly like the old panels. I think the rear corners and badly faded as well, so might as well spruce them up at the same time.

Ok, I got several things in today: the kick panels and vents; the voltage regulator for the ICVR; and the HiPo blue LED's. But let's talk about the kick panels. First, here's a pic of the original left kick panel from Big Blue, the "new" left kick panel, and the vent. Note that the colors of the original kick panel and the vents are the same, but the "new" kick panels aren't. I may paint the new ones or maybe cut the old ones. See below..... Here's the back side of the left kick panels. They look the same save for the one is cut down, right? They have the same #'s on them save for the old one having BWA after the # and it says CAV#2 while the "new" one says CAV#1. Note the line that's in the original kick panel. That's exactly where you'd cut it to make it the same as the new one. So, in reality you wouldn't have to buy new kick panels. Just the vents.

You might want to look at the factory shop manual section on that page to insure a 208 has the snap ring he's talking about. On the BW1345 I just rebuilt you can't get to any snap rings w/o taking the whole transfer case apart.

Rob - First, you shouldn't have an NP205. Instead, it should be an NP208. The 205 wasn't used in these trucks, as shown here: Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Cases and on the Applications tab. Second, there are factory shop manual instructions on the transfer cases on that page as well, and they include diagnosis and testing which might help. Last, I asked if you've tried 4hi on the transfer case to see if it makes the noise, but you've not answered that question. I ask because the nylon shift forks are known to wear out on the t-cases and then they don't shift into the gears properly. If yours are worn you may not be all the way into 2hi or 4hi and could cause that noise. So check out the different positions on the t-case lever and see if that makes a difference.

Sam - I moved this comment here, where it belongs, and will then move your response after it. ETM - Good idea! I hadn't thought of that. Do you have a recommended app? I looked and there are several.

Plate (front fender & tailgate) "Bronco" (1980/81) EOTZ 16098-J R.H. and L.H

Correct for '82 - 86.

Not for our trucks: 83/86 R — gas engines E3TZ 9189-A #E27B 9F271-BA,BB-contains (3) ports

E3TZ 9189—C #E3TB 9F271-AA - contains (6) ports 83/86 E-F250/350 - - 8 cyl. diesel 83/85 E—F250/350 - - 8 cyl. 460-gas-w/electric in tank fuel pump

84/86 F-U150/350 - - M/T 6&8 All E4TZ 11A152-B SW-1909-located on clutch pedal

Good info, Shaun! Even I understood that.

As for what I did today, I replaced the old battery tray, shown on the bottom, with the new one shown on the top. However, it wasn't quite as easy as it sounds since the old bolts holding the old battery tray in refused to come out and had to be cut out. Note that this is the later style bracket that uses clamps or wedges at the bottom to hold the battery in. Maybe tomorrow I can add the battery and show you how it goes in, but this approach is far superior in my estimation than the Bullnose approach. And I used these fasteners, with the the large washer placed on the back side of the fender to spread the load: I put it in as level as I could: And it has enough clearance to the relay to give me reasonable comfort - especially since I may change it out.

A heartfelt second to that statement. Your generosity with your time and effort to help others is genuinely amazing. Jonathan - If you need the '96 EVTM then let me know. But I hope things work when you get a battery in it. As for my efforts, guys, I just like helping. But it is WE or US that do the work around here. I just set up the environment, but you do the bulk of the helping.

Jonathan - I'll have to look for some of those grab handles, although I should ask Janey first. As for the wiring, I have a '96 EVTM. Might it help? If so, what sections do you need? I'll scan them in and create a page for them.

Correct for a Dana 28 front axle, which was used on the smaller trucks, not the F or U-series trucks.