Gary Lewis

82/on F-U100/350 E5TZ 17723-A R.H.-aero-5" x 8" convex chrome

My favorite place to get sheet metal is Tabco. I looked there and didn't find what I think you are looking for. But you should look as I might have missed it: https://tabcoparts.com/pickup-trucks/ford/pickup-bronco-1980-1998.html

Pretty cheap for what it is.

Nice, but $679?!?!?!?!? Correct for 1980-84.

I need some help figuring out what size of fuses to use to replace fuse links. If you've been following my efforts on Big Blue's Transformation you've seen that I am implementing a power distribution box (PDB) that has both relays and fuses. So I'm going to replace the several fuse links that are right around the location of the PDB, which is right behind the battery and next to the alternator. But, I need to figure out what size of fuses to use. The links that are to be eliminated are shown in the schematics below, but they are: Fuse Link F: A 16 ga link that provides power to the trailer brake controller Fuse Link L: A 16 ga link that supplies the headlight switch as well as some fuses, like door locks Fuse Link M: A 16 ga link that supplies power to the main fuse box as well as the auxiliary battery Fuse Link S: A 20 ga link that supplies power to the fuel pump through the inertia switch Fuse Link T: A 20 ga link that supplies power to the fuel pump when cranking One approach would be to add up all the fuses that the new fuse will support and use that number. But Fuse Link M supports fuses that add up to 135 amps, and on top of that it provides charging current to the aux battery. Another approach would be to size based on the wire size. I don't know yet what the wire size is for Circuit #37, but I kind of doubt it is large enough to support 150 amps. And another approach would be to fuse for the amount of current that is anticipated to flow. What suggestions do y'all have?

Made some good progress today. First, I found the TurboCAD file! It was lost in the new-computer setup, but I found it, and then spent a lot of time editing it today. I realized that the circuit from the starter relay that gives the fuel pump full voltage in Start has a fuse link in it. But I'm replacing fuse links with fuses. However, all the fuses in the PDB are powered off the bus, so I had to use another relay to power that circuit. Unfortunately I forgot to put a label on Relay 2, but that's the relay. And I'd forgotten to include the diode to protect from the EMF when the starter's relay discharges, so I added it. And, I have a bit more cleanup to do, but here 'tis: Then I started thinking about how I'm going to document the wiring for posterity. Here's the page from the EVTM that all of these components are shown on: And here's that page with all the things I'm replacing or changing erased. My hope is that I can figure out how to drop the schematic for the PDB onto this page and show it hooked up. Thoughts?

Yep.

Yes, a vacuum leak would cause a problem. Hang in there, you are making progress.

I guess it made sense?

The air cleaner not being fully installed won't change the fuel pressure. Go ahead and try to start it?

The bi-color LED is really two LEDs in one housing. I've attempted to depict that with the dotted line around the pair on the left. So all you need to do is to parallel that LED combo with two other discrete LEDs, as shown. They should all work just fine when wired together, but when you get your two working you can take out the combination/bi-color LED.

I got lost. Let me do some drawing.......

David is right - a stock Bullnose alternator isn't really enough to power the fan and the rest of the vehicle. From a quick Google I'm finding that they pull 33 amps. Some of these trucks had 40 amp alternators, and the biggest was a 60. So if you have the 40 it can't possibly work, and if you have the 60 it won't work well. One issue is that the alternators are rated at an engine speed of 1500ish, and at a light where you need the max cooling it won't be providing more than a trickle. So if you are going with electric fan(s) you should consider a 3G upgrade at the same time.

Forgetting that there are three wires, lets focus on the two pins. As you said, one goes negative and the other positive for red, and the reverse for green. So, if you replaced the one LED with two, one green and one red, but reversed their polarity you'd have the same functionality. If wired correctly the green would be on when you are connected but not braking, and the red would be off. Then, when braking the green would go out and the red would come on. (If wired the wrong way 'round the red would come on when connected and the green during braking.) Is that what you want? If so, use a pair of jumpers from the existing LED to your green and get it going when connected. Then add a pair of jumpers for the red. All the LEDs should work fine with the others there.

True, but I'm not selling them. Ron is. But, where's Ron?

As we know, E0TB is not the prefix for a part number. Instead that is the prefix for an ID #, and the associated part number's prefix is probably E0TZ. So that makes these: Plate (center body pillar) "XLT" (1980/81) EOTZ 9850398-A R.H, and L.H But I cannot find the other two in the catalog.

Sold! (And not to me.)

EOTZ 5486-A Front-bracket-stab, bar to frame 80 F-U150 - - 4/W/D 80/86 F250/350 - - 2/W/D 81/86 F150--(Super cab)--4/W/D

The vast majority of what I've done could have been done on that lathe, Bill. You will love it.

That's a really NICE truck! Not sure I'd pay $27K for it, but it sure is clean.

Yes! I meant to mention that. That's Ron/reamer. You could email him.

There's no specified torque for the studs themselves that I know of. But if you lube them with the special ARP lube, like you will the tops for the nuts, then they'll torque down the same as the nuts when you torque them. And, that is 23 - 25 ft-lbs, as shown on Page 44 of the factory shop manual here: Documentation/Engines/Windsor, and then the Instructions tab. But also note that Page 17 shows the torque sequence and says that you should torque them down in two steps. I'd probably snug the nuts up by hand, and then torque them to 10 ft-lbs, then go back over them at 20, and then to 25.

I've had good luck with the Coverlay covers. In fact, I have one I'm going to put on Big Blue. But you have a point about the base over which they go. I wonder if it would be good to coat the cracked one with something before gluing on the cover? Dave has tried various things, so maybe he has some ideas?

That is going to be FUN! I can't imagine being w/o my lathe. You'll find it so helpful that you'll use it a lot more often than you can imagine.

That may be, but the extra length was enough to cause the BW1356 to hit the floor on Dad's truck.