Gary Lewis

Trust me, I'm a happy camper. I got a good deal on a LOT of parts. As for what I did today, I spent some time trying to take the PDB apart. If you haven't played with one, there are red pieces of plastic that retain the connectors. So, you take out the relays, fuses, and diodes and pull the red pieces. Then you can pull the individual connectors by releasing their tabs. And, since I'm not going to use all of them I want to pull some of them out. But, I've not figured out how to get all of the retainers out. There are some tricks somewhere that I've not discovered. So if anyone knows, please educate me. But once I figure it out I'll post a video or something.

That's not a part number so I can't really check it out.

85/86 F 150/250.U150 8 302 EFI E5TZ 9J323-A Nylon-includes filter #E57A 9155-HA connectors N806187—S190, N806186-S190 90 degrees

(LH) E3TZ 16826—B r/b E8TZ 16826-B 80/86 F150/350 87/88 F250/350 - - diesel 88 F(Super Duty) — diesel

I didn't realize that there was a change in that clamp during early production of the 1986 trucks. The one in your link is the earlier one. 80/86 F250/350 "Before 12/85" EOTZ 17091—B Retains H/D jack 86/ F250/350,F(Super Duty) "From 12/85" E6TZ 17091—B Retains H/D jack

Ten of them? Anyway... 80/on F100/350,U150 (RH) EOTZ 1022428-A (LH) EOTZ 1022429-A 88/on F(Super Duty) 83/on F350 (Crew Cab) Rear door

Jim - NO! There is nothing wrong with the alternator. Or, at least nothing that a new set of $6 brushes won't fix. As I've stepped back and thought about it, I have no business re-clocking this thing. I say that because of my intent to hand off something that can be easily maintained. And apparently Ford thought that these trucks ought to have their alternators clocked the way this one is. In fact, Brandon/Bruno2 said his son's is clocked the same way. So, if I re-clock this one and cut the harness down to match then it won't be long enough with any other clocking. Given that, I'm going to put the alternator back together just the way it is - but with new brushes, which should come in from Rock in a couple of days.

I think you just hit on the mounting approach - sandwich the switches between the front panel and a 3D printed back panel. Ron and I did something like that on the dash patch and it can make a very solid mount. Print the back of the front panel such that the tank switches just nestle in and are captured by raised lands around them. Come over the back of the switches with a collar that goes around the switches and is then screwed to the front panel. In fact, I think the switch is made such that the collar could go up against those tabs that secure the metal front to the plastic back. Once you have the unit complete you slide it into the pocket. But, those connectors for the switches are big, so I'm afraid the back of the pocket would have to go as I can't see getting them through any other way. And, as I think about this approach for mounting, I don't see why it wouldn't work for the fog light as well.

I agree. But let me say it another way. To me there are three levels of fuel systems: Carburetors: They supply the correct air/fuel ratio at only one temperature and air pressure, and even then only if they've been finely tuned. And the air/fuel ratio is not equally distributed to the cylinders due to the inequalities of the runners in the intake manifold. Central EFI: Also known as throttle-body EFI, this is a carb replacement. But it gets the average air/fuel ratio correct for all temps and air pressures, although it is still limited by the inequalities of the intake manifold. Cylinder Injection EFI: This builds on the throttle body by placing injectors such that they inject into the cylinder through the intake valve's opening (port injection) or directly into the cylinder (direct injection). It comes pretty close to getting equal distribution to all cylinders. You have a good system, so why go back a step? With the right air cleaner on it most people can't even tell.

Yes, the turn signal can do weird things like that.

Bingo! 83/R E3TZ 16796-A R.H. and L.H. 84/B R.H. and L.H

I'm thinking it would look just like the fog light switch and fit in the pocket, retaining the bead:

Not to hijack this thread, and I can move these comments if you want, Scott. The tank switches are ~1" wide, and the pocket is ~4 3/4 wide so 4 switches would fit, if we could figure out the mounting. That's because they have that arm hanging off of them, as shown below. Someone can surely figure out how to do that? Perhaps remove the cover, drill the spot welds to remove the arm, then put studs on the cover? And that way they might work for fog light switches? As for the height, the two switches below are farther back than we'd want as the knob is almost inside the pocket. So that works. Or, if we could just find a switch that has an arm like that and has reasonable mounting? Boy, it would look factory!

Ok, I'm officially "stuck" on the re-clocking of the alternator. (Pun intenteded. Or, maybe 2/3 of a pun? ) Whacking with a mallet didn't work. Heating it to 150F in the oven and then whacking and prying didn't work. The issue is that the windings are stuck in the front case half. And there's no good way I can see to pry them out with the diode bridge installed. If you pry where the top/vertical yellow arrow is, which is pretty much where they are stuck, what you are doing is moving the black heat sink (red arrow) back. And since it carries the diode bridge you are then using the soldered joints (4 yellow horizontal arrows) and the copper wires to pull the windings out. I've done that all I dare do for fear of breaking the solder joints. The only way I can see to do it is to un-solder the bridge, which will allow the heat sink to come out as it is fairly loose. That will then give me access to the windings and I might be able to tap & pull to get them out. Help!

I LIKE IT!!!!! I wonder how many I could squeeze in? Hmmmmmmm......

Nice truck! Tell us more about it? And, put some of that info in a signature. See the Signatures tab on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.

Please don't call me Mr. I'd rather be "one of the guys". But I'm glad you got it figured out. Well done!

I think the factory shop manual section here will help: Documentation/Driveline/Brakes. And then go to the Rear Brakes tab followed by the Drum Brakes R&R tab. Then go to Page 8. Does that do it?

Chain - As said in the email, I've not had this problem. But the only place the ATF could be getting into the speedometer cable is through the speedometer gear. However, I didn't realize that your truck is a 4x4, and the speedometer gear doesn't plug into the transmission on a 4x4. Instead it plugs into the transfer case. The pic on the left is what the speedo gear looks like, and the pic on the right is where it goes in the t-case. But, you should check your t-case as it may have more ATF in it than it should, which could cause this problem.

Welcome! Glad you joined us. Where in TN? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map on the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a city. Speaking of a city in TN, our kids used to like in Nashville, and we've been through the state many times. It is beautiful!

I like that approach - not solving a cooling problem, but just seeing if it will work and what you think of it. 👍

So, is your EGR hooked up correctly?

I think the red spacer might be loose without the O-ring in place to hold it. The original bearing has an o-ring on the inside of the inner race to keep everything snug. You are probably right. I wonder if a piece of heat-shrink over the shaft would keep the red piece in and make the bearing turn?

I got a bit lost on the EGR valve. But first, your air/fuel ratio and engine idle RPM was probably adjusted to accommodate the extra air being admitted via the bad brake booster. So now you need to screw the two idle mix screws in 1/2 turn at a time until you get the engine to idle best. And then you need to adjust the idle stop screw to get the idle speed set correctly. You can see those screws here: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carb, Chokes, & EFI/Motorcraft 2150. On the EGR valve, you are talking about vacuum line, right? If so, it should not have vacuum at idle as that will cause the EGR valve to open. Maybe you have it connected to the wrong port?