Gary Lewis

Ok guys, I've ordered this kit of clamps. But, I'm not sure they'll do what I need. Something isn't clicking for me. However, I don't want to use zip ties nor waxed string. I want something that looks professional. They won't be in until Thursday, so tomorrow I'll: Find the reservoir bracket and install it. Mount the battery isolator permanently. Ground the black wire and run the purple (parallel) and white (LED) wires back into the cab for future use. Take out the red zip tie and do something a bit less tacky to secure the wiring. Install the aux battery. Sort out the positive battery cables as well as the ground cables. The aux positive currently comes from the big relay on the firewall, which is no longer needed save for acting as a terminal post. So the aux positive needs to go to the battery isolator and I may need to make a new cable. Consider removing the original aux battery relay. At the very least, if it needs to be retained for connection purposes, disconnect its pull-in wire so it doesn't clunk. Install the starter and lash its cable down. And if I get all that done then the electrical system is pretty well DONE! Yes, at some point I'll need to do something with the smart isolator's purple and white wires. But that can come later - after the "pause". Thanks for all the positive comments. They really help!

Barry - I had a really hard time understanding your post. But from what I do understand you are thinking about buying a 1984 f150 XLT 302 4spd and are wondering if $400 is a reasonable price. The truck apparently runs, but is in pretty bad shape? A few years ago I bought a truck that was in pretty decent shape from a rust standpoint, but the rear axle was broken. I paid $600 for it. As for the transfer case, they are interchangeable.

Myrl - Hope to get my truck in tune. Brian - Thanks, that helps.

Sold for $6600: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Ford-Bronco-XLT-4X4-302-V8-CALIFORNIA-RUST-FREE-VEHICLE-4WD/193387943372?hash=item2d06d1d5cc%3Ag%3AcekAAOSw6VVec9oR&LH_ItemCondition=3000%7C2500 That was a nice Bronco, and not a bad price.

Yep, which if they're permanently out like I think they are, your only options are used/NOS versions, or to make your own. I'll be making my own. Maybe Ron/reamer could make them?

Brian - Perfect! Thanks. Shaun - Big Blue only has had one horn, but I suspect that'll change soon. Thanks for the info.

Bummer!

I hope it works as well in real life as the simulation did. As for what I did today, I got the vast majority of the wiring done. But, before I lose you I need some help. The rubber-lined clamps I have are too small for the size of the cable, so I have it in temporarily using zip ties. But I need suggestions on how best to secure the run across the radiator support. And now for what I got done. I found all of the hardware needed for the driver's side headlight, so it is now starting to look like a truck. Then inside the engine bay I got the wiring neatened up on the passenger's side and then the battery tray and battery in. Here's a shot, although the battery is not clamped down as I'm not sure this battery has the right clamping spots for the later clamping method. Anyway, it is there, and it took everything I had to get it there. On the driver's side I got the wiring done and the auxiliary battery tray in place as well as the coolant reservoir sitting in place. However, I've not found the bracket that holds the far end of the reservoir to the fender, which is why it is just sitting there. And, what you can't easily see in the previous pic is the smart battery isolator as it is hiding behind the reservoir. So here's another shot. It has the large, probably #6 cable from the PDB on the passenger's side going to it, as well as the fuse link for the trailer circuit. Then this side of it will have the aux batteries positive cable. And, by the way, the red zip tie is getting replaced.

I thought they all mount the same. But, I'm not remembering exactly where. I'm CLOSE, but it isn't falling into place for me.

Well, the master parts catalog has failed me, as have my less-than-extensive pictures. I can't figure out exactly how the horn(s) mount. Does anyone have any pics? Pretty please?

Yes, the Arduino does the translation. There will be either a table or an equation that translates the later sending unit's output to what the Bullnose gauge needs. And, since it is either a table or an equation, we could dial it in such that it reads correctly, no matter what sending unit is used. In fact, since it is a computer, it'll have the ability to converse with another computer, tablet, iPad, etc. And that device could be used to tweak the table. So, once the design is proven it could be used for a lot of things.

Best check the volume of those heads or you might have a bit too much compression ratio.

Wow! I understood most of that. Anyway, my 1985 Master Cross Reference List doesn't have ID # E1TE 6256-A2A. Oddly enough, it has -A1A but not -A2A, so that had to come after my book was printed in April of '85? But -A1A certainly is part number E1TZ 6156-A. So that's surely the part number for -A2A since, as you said, A2A is only a revision. Some day I'll scan all 1060 pages of this MCR, and however many pages in the earlier and later one as well, so everyone can cross-ref their ID #'s to part #'s. But that's too much work right now. Besides, no one really knows that #'s on parts are not part #'s.

You can bet the heads have the humps in them. They may be D8OE's, and those are about the worst that Ford made. Huge humps. Go with the Eddys.

I don't know anyone that has tested positive, yet. But I'm sure it will happen. We have at least one person in our little town that has it. And I know people who worked with someone who go it, so.... And I don't know anyone that died from it. But, I know someone that knew someone that died. He saw the guy at work 16 days before he died, and he looked perfectly healthy.

I think you'll be happy with the XE250H. I put one in a 351W with a 2bbl on it and it would spin the tires from a stop. I was impressed.

Yikes! I do NOT like those hub caps! I've never seen them on a 4wd truck, either. But other than that, I like it. However, I kinda doubt it has "Anti-Lock Brakes, Driver Airbag, Passenger Airbag".

Nice truck! Sure does shine.

Actually, E1TE 6256-A2A is not a part number. In Ford's infinite wisdom, as of 1965 numbers on parts are not "part numbers". They are either ID or engineering numbers. Which is why your number has an "E" and not a "Z" in the prefix. And part number suffixes are usually single characters, like "A" and not "A2A", which is a sure sign of an ID #. I have three books, courtesy of Bill/Numberdummy, that correlate ID #'s to part #'s. I'll look up your ID # later and see what the part number actually is, but it will probably be E1TZ 6256-A. (And one of these days I'll scan them and put them on here so everyone can find their part number from the ID number.) In this snippet from the MPC I've circled the Part Number column and Description column. Sometimes they'll put an ID # in the Description column, but didn't in this case.

Dane - One of the things I like about the Arduino solution to my fuel system problem is that it can be useful for others. So many Bullnose fuel system parts are unobtanium, but the later parts aren't - and are better. So if we had a way to adapt the output of their senders to the Bullnose gauges we'd be "in". And that's what the Arduino does. As said, the beauty of the fuel delivery modules is that they have everything in one - pump, sender, and switching valves. All it takes to connect them is a wye in the lines. And while Bill says that I'll need to take the dropping resistor out of the circuit, I think he means for EFI. But I doubt it needs to be done for a carb'd engine as you are going to have to run a return-style regulator, so having the resistor in just means you have less pressure to drop. And, speaking of the regulator, I think it will be easy to add a short piece of nylon tubing with the correct connector on it to a barb to fit the regulator and mount that right beside the carb since the fuel lines come up over the back of the engine when using the FDM's. The Arduino will just need power, ground, and a connection to the circuit coming from the sender and going on to the gauge. I plan to break into the circuit where shown below and take the line from the gauge into the Arduino and then the line from the Arduino will go on to the gauge.

Jim - That's the goal. I plan to have the electrical system done and the shop fairly well cleaned by end-of-day Saturday. That, I think, will be the point where I can hit pause. Here's what I think that entails: Passenger's side headlight, marker, and turn signal wiring secured - some convolute, tape, and zip ties. Main battery tray installed - 8 bolts that have already been in and are ready Aux battery tray in - just a few bolts that are to-hand Wiring run across the radiator support - rubber-lined clamps to the ready Driver's side headlight installed - gotta find more of the plastic sliders and two more of the machine screws that hold the headlight bezel to the bucket. But, if push comes to shove I could guestimate where the headlight will be based on the passenger's side and not have to have the headlight in to do the connector. Driver's side headlight connector wired and installed - easy peasy Smart battery isolator installed and the big yellow cable from the PDB on the passengers side terminated to it. General tie-down of the wiring on the driver's side fender liner. Having said all that, the document to put in the PDB to show which fuse & relay is what might be good to get done now before I forget where I documented that stuff. Anyway, I'm close. The pause is upon me and I just need to get a bit more done.

That's the kind of feedback I was looking for. And if nothing else was happening I think I'd agree with you. However, our kids & grandkids are set to arrive Saturday and all work on the truck is going to come to a halt. So I'm doubting it'll be running this summer. Our kids need a safe place, so we are thrilled to share ours with them. But they don't know where they are going from here, nor when. So it may be a while before I get back to the truck. Having said that, if I get back to it soon then I think I'll go for "quick and dirty", meaning the '85 stuff, and get it on the road. But if it runs into the fall before I get back to it then I'll probably go for the EFI approach. Thanks!

Yes, it does, Chris. Good to see from you!

I think the cold side goes up to the carb and pulls in filtered air. Doesn't it? If so, I'd want to try to duplicate that and get the connection at the manifold as tight as possible. But I've seen manifolds glow red, so I'm not sure solder will hold. I think brazing would, but that takes a lot of heat.

Hmmm, no thoughts on the fuel system? Anyway, I got the passenger's side headlight connector wired up today. But in order to do that I had to install that headlight, which took a while as I had a hard time finding all the parts. (Note to self: Do a better job of filing things away.) I did find enough parts to get that headlight on, but will need to find more to get the driver's side headlight on. And, along the way I realized that now is the time to put the ground between the radiator support and the passenger's fender. In the pic below you can see the radiator support end of the ground jumper above the orange headlight connector. And, you can tell that I have a bit left to do to neaten up the wiring to the marker light and turn signals by adding some convolute, but I'll do that tomorrow. Now, here's how I did the headlight connector itself. Here you can see a #12 black wire for the ground, which I think is about the max you can get in, and what I think are #14's, but might be #16's, from my spare harness. That gives me the factory wire colors, and the smaller wires are only about 9" long so I don't think the voltage loss will be enough to worry about. As for how I spliced into the #10 and #12 headlight feeders, I did that by cutting about 1/2" of insulation off the heavier wire, wrapping the smaller wire around it and soldering it, and then slipping the adhesive-lined heat-shrink over it. Here is a shot of the #12 having already been spliced and the heat shrink on it, and the #10 having been soldered but the heat-shrink not applied yet.