BigBrother-84

I keep an Excel file about the parts I bought for Big Brother's restoration. I bought these from LMC (repro), very good quality, I would say same as originals. Was curious and went to LMC's site, to verify if they still sale them. Yep, they do... but not at the same price! April 2022, I was able to buy a complete front grill/bezels & mouldings black/chrome kit for 188$. Same kit is now 348$! I realize I renovated Big Bro just in time!

With a Forestry Skidder.

What's going on Matt? Did you get so much low under the freezing point? 🥶

Is this the right model? Dennis Carpenter has it.

Looks good Gary, I really like the black headlights bezels. Looking at Big Blue's before and after picts, I see that you had grey bezels with the black grill. Now I understand why you said «this ties in with the black way back behind the grille». More uniform look, yes. Big Bro was born with the grey bezels and grill. They were worn and cracked, I had to change them and chose the black style instead. More contrasting, embossed and textured. Grey style looks more "flat" at my eyes, looks good too, but different. Matter of taste, but I prefer Big Bro with the black kit, same for Big Blue. (July 26th 2001, stuck in the mud on a fishing trip with one of my sons, aged 6).

Funny, Big Bro was painted all white before red was added. Don't ask me why, I too asked a professional paint shop to do the work. Finally a Clear was applied. When do you plan to proceed with the two tone?

Very sharp! Thanks for details Gary! Seriously planing something for Big Bro...

Thanks Gentlemen for your detailed answers. And thanks Cory to have asked your questions! This thread is very instructive!

Hhhhaaa, I LOVE this feeling of linking two confusing and obscure concepts so they spark and light suddenly comes out of the big void. Thanks Ralph!

Okay... I am almost a complete dummy in electrical questions... Understand by "almost" that I can run wires (ac or dc), install breakers, switches (regular and 3-ways), lights, heating, outlets, the moment it stays simple. But at the moment you add a resistor in a circuit, or any electronic widgets, I'm lost. Now let's get back to Cory's fan switch position in the circuit. I'll use a metaphorical image to explain what's no clear for me (let's assume all DC). Correct me if I am wrong: • If I put a 12V bulb in a 120V circuit, it will blow out. • Reversely, a 120V bulb in a 12V circuit represents a too high resistance, it will glow very yellow (if it glows...). So, if Cory's switch is made for a 12V input, but is placed between the voltage reducer and the blower, I suspect its ohms resistance (built to receive 12V input) will be too high, so the output won't be enough to turn the blower at the good speed. I suppose... The same way, if this switch is placed before the voltage reducer, is it possible that this reducer will to much lower the power delivered to the blower? In other words, can a "dimmer switch" be placed in a circuit regardless of the voltage of this latter? I suspect no... Thanks for your patience gentlemen! And Cory, I apologize hacking your thread this way! But your questions are very interesting!

Cory's questions are very interesting. Jim and Gary, what about the switch position? There is no specification about the output it delivers, no more about the voltage it is built for. Just a precision about 10amp rating. Do we have to assume it is a "normal" 12V vehicle switch? If so, I am curious about how its position in the circuit will affect the result. It is not a simple on/off switch, since it delivers low and high "speeds" to the blower. Which current (V? A?) will it deliver if placed before or after the voltage reducer? What will be the final "low and high" output to the fan? Another question Cory has is the ground strategy. I never questioned myself about this, but I always assumed a car body is a 12V electrical circuit, an extension of its negative battery pole. But Cory made me realize that I could probably make different electrical current (6V, 12V, 120V, 240V) to transit by a same unique metal "ground" piece, and close their own circuit with their own positive pole?

Ralph, am I correct to think that the "I" post goal you are describing is the same as the starter switch "start bypass" wire discussed here? https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Do-late-70-s-and-80-s-era-coils-require-ballast-resistor-tp119523p119563.html

Yep!

Gary, going here and there, I felt on this (LMC). Don't know if relevant for water protection when crossing a watercourse.

Gary, thanks for the update. Too bad this adjustment has to be done by night, which is never warm these days... Yep, I was aware about that, the shell I bought are supposedly expressly made for LED bulbs. Nevertheless, the result isn't the one I expected, as I mentioned earlier. Anyway, waiting for your sequel!

Thanks a lot guys! Jim, I apologize, I didn't see that thread, although it is a recent one. Thanks to have pointed at it, I will read carefully!

Sure it's going to work. I equipped Big Bro with LED beams (clear beams with LED bulbs), and I am half satisfied. Much more light at night than regular H4, but no easy adjustment between high/low beam. Result, everybody flashes Big Bro at night, looks on high position all the time. I am following Big Blue's new beams story, very interested about the results. Maybe will go that way too.

Thanks Gary.

Thanks again Jim, going to investigate a little more about the lack of power (yellowing lights) I had. Will check how all wires are attached to this famous relay. To be frank I went the hard way, jumping the + and - main poles with a big screwdriver. Didn't do the S jumping . Since I really don't trust this relay (strange starting behaviour this summer), I will change it. And open it after, to expose to sunlight its guts. About this latter, I am a bit confused about the good model. Mine is looking as this one (E8TZ-11450-B), the fourth pole isn't required: I was looking for a 3 poles, thinking it was the good one (E9TZ-11450-B): But I found at NPD that the good model for 1984 F-350 should be this one (E7HZ-11450-A): Four poles too, and completely different shape... Any advice about the goal of this fourth pole? I searched in the Forum Documentation and did not find where to verify this solenoid/starter-relay part number. Any idea?

Gentlemen, well, I have to say it was a total fail: 1- Recheck and tighten every contact (battery, grounds, starter, relay). DONE, no problem. 2- Verify the voltage at battery, and between battery and relay poles. DONE, no problem. 3- Unplug the S wire and jump the relay +|- poles, and therefore see if the starter and battery work well. DONE, no problem, the truck started correctly, full electric power. 4- «Light continuity tester» between battery negative pole and S wire, to check if the starting wires/switch work well. DONE, no problem. 5- If required, change the relay.. Well, can't say if it is faulty, this time it worked. But I remember having this kind of trouble last summer, maybe twice. Stop to fuel up at the gaz station, and had one "clonk" while turning the key when leaving. Saying to myself «oh-oh, what's going on», but another key turn and everything starts normally, so forget it, «I probably did not turn the key correctly». So, I'll order a brand new relay (a Motorcraft one), and hope this intermittent trouble will vanish.

John, had some starting trouble with Big Brother, stalled in his garage... Fixed this morning. This is the 2022 Christmas pict, took a bit late this afternoon, but here it is! https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Merry-Christmas-tp128874p129036.html

I like the black painted bezels. Big Brother was born with the grey/silver ones. But I find he looks better since I installed black ones. Matter of taste...

Finally! Happy Holidays everybody!

I admit this is probably a wise decision. Not for the truck lifting job, which I consider a really easy project for you (maybe too simple?). Indeed, I just realized that the main challenge would be that you'll cannot lift that monster without bumping your garage ceiling, and have to change your garage door too. That's the real time consuming part of the project. No chance to take, cannot afford to miss that exciting ride with your son.