BigBrother-84

To be frank I went the hard way, jumping the + and - main poles with a big screwdriver. Didn't do the S jumping . Since I really don't trust this relay (strange starting behaviour this summer), I will change it. And open it after, to expose to sunlight its guts. About this latter, I am a bit confused about the good model. Mine is looking as this one (E8TZ-11450-B), the fourth pole isn't required: I was looking for a 3 poles, thinking it was the good one (E9TZ-11450-B): But I found at NPD that the good model for 1984 F-350 should be this one (E7HZ-11450-A): Four poles too, and completely different shape... Any advice about the goal of this fourth pole? I searched in the Forum Documentation and did not find where to verify this solenoid/starter-relay part number. Any idea? Job done. I changed the starter relay for a new one. This later has the "vertical shape" supposed to be the right model for 1984 trucks. Hoping this will finally fix my startup problems, chances are good, since I exposed the guts of the old one to the sun and see that one of the pole's contact was really carbonized, beginning melting. Let's touch wood!

https://classicfordtrucktrader.com/ad/1986-ford-f-250-4x4/

We often hear that «God is in the details». But I also heard (mostly for contract questions) «Devil is in the details». Who can say?

Hi Gentlemen! Some of you already know that I am trying to obtain better cold start with Big Brother. Last summer I changed the old Holley 4180-C (that came with a replacement 351W 4V engine, around 2010). Installed a universal Holley carb, model 4160-C 600 Polished. I realized today that the choke flap is never fully closed, contrarily to the old 4180-C: Winter here can be cold... very cold. I am wondering if this "never tightly closed" choke flap can result in a too lean mixture for cold starts? If so, is there replacement flaps available that will completely close the intake?

Gentlemen, many thanks all of you, JOB IS DONE! For posterity and for other newbie dummies like me, here is a summary of what I've done: 1- Fully cleaned the old 7V cap and its ring. For comparison, there is also the new 12V one and its ring: 2- This is when I took off the new 12V cap and installed the old 7V one. For the newbies: - Simply insert the spring loop on the choke pin while the choke flap is opened. - Than turn about 90º conterclockwise, the choke flap will close. I stopped turning when the cap notch was centred in the adjustment scale. 3- I decided to keep the old retaining ring. I trust it better for grounding purpose. If you do so, don't make the same mistake I did... Take off the ground wire before installing the old metal ring, or you'll not be able to do so. 4- THAN, install the old metal ring. 5- I had to make a new insulation for the old wire, the original rubber was completely gone. Did it with multiple heat shrink tubing: 6- Et Voilà! The truck started very well, the closed flap began to open after couple of minutes (max 20ºF here today), Big Bro seamed happy. Again, many thanks to all pros for their patience explaining me the way it works! I have some other questions about the carb choke flap itself, I'll start a new thread about it.

I am curious to understand why these snorkels always point their open mouth towards the front of the vehicle. Not the side or the rear. I mean, when heavy rain, won't the water go to the intake directly, even on a road and not crossing a river? Or maybe if pointing toward the rear, there would be a "succion" effect that would reduce the air to the intake?

Okay, I have the old in hands. I assume that some other dummies like me would do it for the first time too, so there is some picture for them (not for my Pro Teachers). 1- This is how it looks when disassembled: 2- Let's say we want to install it back. Help needed: A) When put it back, I assume having to insert the choke pin in the spring end loop. B) Now, does it have to be done with open or closed flap? C) Now it is back at its place, have to turn it clockwise or counterclockwise, and how much tension the spring before tightening the 3-screws ring? D) EDIT: Oh, and I assume I'll have to keep the old metal 3-screws ring on the new carb, otherwise the old 7V choke cap will not be grounded, am I right? After this will be done, it will be time to talk about fine tuning.

Will need a ceiling vault, but very clean!

YEEHAW !!!

Ok Bill, I'm willing to give a try tomorrow. But as a regional doctor operating a delicate surgery not in his qualifications, I'll need to be remotely supervised by a specialized surgeon. My first "mechanical exploration" was at age of 4. Decided to understand how the hell a Big Ben table clock was working. Disassembled and opened it when suddenly a spiral spring jumped out of its heart. Was never able to reassemble it, had to apologize to my Mom (with some tears) about this disaster. I know there is a spiral spring in this cap, I'll have to "hook" it correctly in its new location. Not sure how to do it... Will it jump in my face (again!)? Will I have to tension it in any ways when reinstalling the cap? If so, how much turn, or turn fractions? I'll proceed methodically. Will first take out the old cap, examine it, send some picts and wait for instructions.

Capiche, thanks Jim. Now, let's dig little further with the choke voltage question... Here are some picts I took of the old and new carbs. Three questions: 1- Caps voltage: Well, there is no such indication on the two caps. Do I look correctly?: 2- Caps swapping: I canot figure out how the old one could fit on the new carb... Maybe I suffer of a lack of creativity? And the new one appears to be much easier to adjust... I am wondering how to adjust the old model? Never done it... 3- Relay solution: Could a relay add-on be a simpler solution? If so, any suggestion about such a relay and how to wire it? Thanks again Gentlemen!

Wow! Jim, that is very interesting. Big Bro is also equipped with a mechanical fuel pump. Never thought about it, but it's logical: If the engine is off and not cranking, pumping the pedal doesn't push fuel to the carb. The engine must be turning to activate the fuel pump and provide fuel to the carb. So, the full-pedal-to-the-floor move before cranking is only to close the choke flap, am I right?

Jim, thanks for this info. I tried to find the answer by myself, from Holley's web site, but I admit I was rapidly lost. That could explain why Big Bro was always difficult to start and needed pumping to crank. But I was expecting that giving him a new carb would fix this behavior... This is unfortunately not the case, I still have to pump after a long parked delay (couple of days). I hope that fine tuning the choke issue will help!

Unfortunately not! Had two full Holidays weeks, there was so much people here, coming in & out, lunch, dinner, sleeping, playing... had lot of fun, but I admit Big Bro was a bit neglected. Anyway, last kid went back to school and last friends are gone, we're going back to normal life. I remember my youth when I was driving a Renault 5. Flap choke was manually operated by a cable, life seemed simpler. Should find some time for Big Bro today... before going back to my office next Monday. Thanks so much for your support!

Thanks Gentlemen, I'll take a look to my old carb tomorrow (we had friends for dinner tonight, I wasn't able to work on the truck). Looking at the picts that I took last summer, is it possible to confirm the model? Talked with another friend today, about that investigation. He said that a higher voltage will open the choke flap faster, which is not necessarily desirable under our cold weather... Any advice about this theory?

Thanks Gary! Start crank = 3V Engine running = 7.8V

Ok Guys, I made a voltage test. But probably the wrong way: - Unplugged the choke wire and plugged the tester in the wire. - Other end of the tester on the battery positive pole. - Turned key on "start" position. - Got 2.75V DC (on the 10V scale). The engine wasn't started, kept the ignition key 1 second, just enough to read the voltage. Do I have to completely start the engine?

Gary, I wasn't expecting to get an answer tonight! Clearly, the answer is no. In fact, I don't remember when Big Bro started well. I am now wondering if this behavior began with the 4V engine... And more cold is the weather, more difficult is the start. I will make the verifications you are describing, and will come back. Tomorrow, not tonight. Many thanks!

Hi Gentlemen! Following this Powerman5K's thread https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Mystery-hose-tp128472.html I was referred to this reading https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/chokes.html in which Gary mentions: «​I should point out that if you install an aftermarket 4bbl carb, like a Holley, Edelbrock, or Demon in place of a Motorcraft 2bbl and use the factory electric choke wire you are going to have problems.». The fact is that Big Brother was born with a 351W 2V. Later, the original engine was replaced with a used 351 Cleveland 2V. I bought the truck from my father-in-law and after couple of years got serious problems with the Cleveland, so I decided to replace the engine again. Found a good 351W 4V, ran it as is during couple of years, than decided to make it rebuilt in 2015. I replaced the Motorcraft 4V carburetor with a 4V Holley last 2022. I am wondering if I should have done some modifications when Big Bro got his first 4V... How can I verify if voltage to the choke is the right one, and if not, how to correct the problem? And what kind of problem is caused by a to low voltage? Thanks!

Very nice body job, Tobias! 👍

Gary, you just cannot imagine the mess in my workshop, in my barn. It's a living thing, as if breathing, growing than resorbing. As a tide, flooding in an out on a regular basis. 26 years I live here, 26 super clean shop, as John's one, once a year... and 26 mess again.

I agree!

In fact, before asking for help, we tried to throw lugs and rocks in the mud hole under the tire. A lot. We discovered this was more a black hole with no end. I suspect there's a guy on the other side of the planet who was surprised to find a growing bump in his garden.