ckuske

Got your email, and thank you! It will be nice to hopefully give back to all of you guys!

Gotcha! At least this problem should be fairly localized to work on so I don't affect the main parts of the site. I'll make backups of the files etc to be able to roll back if necessary. And separately from this, now you and Bill have my home address as collateral with respect to being able to delete the site

Sure, I'd be happy to take a peek and see what I can do. No promises, but with enough time I can probably get to the correct layer of this onion (its just like working on a Bullnose, you really don't know what you're getting into at the beginning!)

No worries Gary, much appreciated! It looks like the script or page is caught in a loop, it hits the same URLs more than a 500 times before it gives up.

Gary, while I inadvertently have you here: The "Send email to member" function - I know you don't get an on screen confirmation, but I selected the "CC me" checkbox and didn't get an email copy. I'm trying to send a message to Bill to get in touch with him regarding his generous offer - even if I didn't get a copy of the email, do we think the message was sent?

Hi Bill, I sent you a message through your profile. Not sure if it went through though, but I know there's a bug in that part of the site. If you didn't, let me know how I can get ahold of you. Thanks!

True story. I have found several things on the truck where "they" did things that were just "bad", things that I would never do or leave the way they were. In this instance, the "they" was the engine shop that rebuilt my 302. The engine itself seems fine still, but they took forever. I was too young to figure it out at the time, but after working on this EEC-IV system, my guess is they spent a month troubleshooting it when they put everything back together.

Perhaps they "fixed" something when I got the engine rebuilt (this was 20+ years ago now, but it would explain a lot)

Thanks! I will send you a message. Looks like 8 wires to be replaced (just looking for breaks, missing insulation, etc) So far the rest of the harness looks ok, only the exposed areas look to have all the damage. Just curious, was the entire harness wrapped originally? It’s hard to believe Ford would have left all those wires exposed at the rear of the engine.

Here is a picture of the worst part. I got tied up with things other than the truck today, so I'll have to chip away at it in little bits. There are several wires to replace. I'm going to start by unwrapping the whole thing though to check out the whole length of the harness.

Got the harness out! The O2 sensor was the last issue, and I had bought one of these on Amazon before Dane posted his suggestion. I'll remember that for the future if I lose this baby: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002STTPW Night and day difference. I'll post pictures of the harness tomorrow. I have counted at least 4 broken or bare wires, with at least 3 having the distinct possibility of them shorting each other out...

Thanks, Dane! Good suggestion, I'll try that today.

I forgot about Auveco, thanks! They are always a good place to look.

Ok, I'm sorry to be high maintenance here, but I am having a heck of a time getting the 1-wire O2 sensor plug to come apart. The main issue is getting the clips on each side of the plug to be pried up at the same time while I'm hanging over the passenger side fender. I get a screwdriver under one side, then rotate it to get a screwdriver under the other side and one pops out, etc. I've spent over an hour futzing with this connector and I'm about ready to just snap the clips off it, but I don't REALLY want to do that. I'd rather not reach down there ever again haha. Any suggestions?

Yeah, these are pretty miserable to deal with. Function over form in this case!

Much appreciated, thank you! As much as I'd like to keep everything original, I am willing to sacrifice here if it keeps things humming correctly!

Good idea, any suggestions on which to use?

Hi Gary, Yep, I do. I know there is the engineering number and then what the REAL part number is. It’s always good to be reminded though, and to use the right nomenclature on my part. :) Ok, seems like I’ll need to figure out how to fix this bugger, or maybe make a trip out to the junkyard to look for an example in better shape.

Almost have everything disconnected. The connectors on the driver side wheel well - they were a pain. Of course I broke a couple tabs, etc.. But a wire broke right at where it enters these connectors. I was thinkning of replacing the "male" ends of these connectors (the male pins are recessed in a cavity) because like most of my other wiring, it is less than optimal. I can barely find any reference to these connectors in the MPC or really much of the internet, either. I'm hoping there is some tribal knowledge out there? D4AB-14A459-JB D4AB-14A459-HB D8AB-14A458-EB (this one is kinda cruddy to read, but I think I got it right) I can probably use them as is, except that one wire that broke right where it enters the shell - what a pain. I haven't tried to try and know if you can "de-pin' or remove that wire from the shell. The wire looks almost molded in to be waterproof so I'm not sure it can be removed. I don't have any material to work with to solder a new wire to it... Here's an example

I'm sure you're the voice of reason in this situation. Hopefully I'll get it out completely today in between work calls. My plan (if it really is that bad) would be to repair the existing harness and use it as a reference when building the new one.

Not much done today. I labeled all the wires by circuit near their connectors, and got the 60 pin plug through the firewall. I also unplugged most of the stuff... hoping to remove the harness tomorrow. Although I am going to plan on salvaging, I am kind of thinking I should just got for it and build a new harness... I have found the female pins, and a good place to buy the wire (no hashes or dots, but they have all the colors, and with stripes). I'd be into the wire for about $300 total, less if I reused colors in various spots etc. I'm not sure on using TXL or GXL insulation. Anyway, my thinking isn't about how to fix it for "today" but more about what happens to the unpatched sections in a few more years... maybe I just build it from scratch and not have to worry about it. More progress tomorrow (hopefully)

I appreciate the offer! I will get the harness removed from the truck and evaluate how to move forward. After gently looking at the damaged wires, the truck won't stay running unless given a quarter pedal. I think I just forced my hand my touching the bundle and it literally falling apart in my hands...

It is less than optimal for sure. My plan for now is to just cut out the parts that are damaged and put new wire in its place. I have just started looking but there don't seem to be any good aftermarket options. I don't want to rewire the whole truck, just the EEC wiring bundle. Maybe I'll see if I can find one in better condition on eBay and go from there? I really don't want to deal with this again. Suggestions welcome! I am almost tempted to build my own, but I don't want to buy 40 different spools of wire etc...

Thanks Bill! I may need it still, but I finally crawled in the very back of the engine bay and got things cleared up to look at the bundle that is right behind the EGR against the firewall: You can see at least a couple wires with missing insulation. A wire (a white one?) that was attached to the engine ground broke off the terminal as soon as I moved the loom at all. I think the best thing to do is pull the harness and fix all the issues. How should I go about removing the harness? Any tips? Pull the connector from the cab through the firewall? Or the other way around? I haven't gone through the whole thing yet but it seems like I should be able to just disconnect everything and remove it, right?

Thanks Gary, I agree. And thanks for posting so late there! I just physically can't spot either of them... like they're not there? (or I am blind, which is more likely) I'll look again in the morning and send a couple pictures. I also verified that G701 in the cab is attached to the dash support, so I should be good there as well. Chris