ckuske

Thanks, I cut out that nasty section, and soldered everything back together, put shrink tubing around it, etc. It should hold up much better! And yes after looking at Big Blue, I feel better! But not in a negative way towards Big Blue mind you, there is just a lot going on due to all the goodies!

I went back out to the truck and answered my own question (I think) The black wire with no hashes has a section where you can tell there was a wire spliced/swaged onto it. I'm pretty sure that's where the other end of the diode went and it matches up to your description. If you could confirm though, that'd be great! I should have thought about it a little more myself first, but I was upset to see more junky wiring! The diode wire must have gotten ripped off the splice when I got the A/C redone and the guy didn't notice, then I didn't! I'm also double checking my wire routing to make sure I don't melt anything else... there's just so much of everything in my engine bay. I'm jealous of these clean I6 setups with like 8 wires total and a couple vacuum lines. And then there's MY engine bay.

Well let's ignore the weird color wire - I don't know how to explain it either. Maybe over time the insulation got some other wire color transferred onto it. It is weird that the true base color of the wire is blue, turn the wire over, and the other side is black. Same yellow hashes on both sides. I scrubbed the wire with a toothbrush and Dawn, and nothing besides gunk came off. Keep in mind I am a software guy, not an EE so I am willing to ask a dumb question here... I have a diode with one end connected to nothing. Are you saying I should be splicing that diode lead into the black wire (wire 57 in the EVTM diagram above) that then connects to the A/C compressor? The black wire I'm referring to is the bottom wire in my second picture.

Here is a "better"(?) picture. The wire going to the diode is odd - blue with yellow hashes on one side of the same length of wire, and black with yellow hashes if you rotate the wire. I know this is the circuit, but I'm having a hard time understanding where the diode is supposed to go based on the wires in front of me...

Hi All, I helped a neighbor haul something in my neighborhood with my truck. I pulled it back in and while it was idling, I popped the hood to just look for anything odd. I noticed a spark down by the passenger exhaust manifold. Not good! At first I thought it might be arcing of the spark plug wires, but it was a dangling wire that had touched the manifold, and the insulation burned off and was causing the spark. I was pulling things together into a bundle to be kept away from the manifold in the future, and following the wires, I noticed something more concerning: This goes to the A/C compressor. I looked in the EVTM and see a diode there in the A/C section, but there is no blue wire that I can see. As you can see, the wire other end of the diode isn't connected to anything! I will try to look again, but does anyone have any experience with this circuit and can tell me where this diode goes? Looks like I need to replace this whole area too, splices and all.

Of course, that's the way it should be IMO.

Ok, installed (I'm assuming this is the one? https://www.phpbb.com/customise/db/extension/mediaembed). Looks like you have to use the [media] bbCode to embed.

I'll get that installed for you guys today

Hi Guys, Sorry for the trouble. I'll chalk it up to a idiosyncracy of phpBB. I've removed the American language pack - British English is the default for some reason, so while I know it feels weird to use British English in a Ford Truck forum, play along for now, ok? :) I just created another user for myself and it seemed to work alright?

I haven't seen them anywhere but eBay. I found a good set, but that was like 5 years ago. They may be harder to find (and they still haven't found their way onto my truck yet! ) by now.

Yep, I'm using that page to test iframe redirects - meaning if you go to a thread by the direct URL (paste it into the address bar, click on it in an email, etc) it will send you back to the main site but ask the iframe (the forum) to load that specific thread/post into view. I didn't want to tell anyone to Go Away! this time

Bugs can be justified as “gotta break a few eggs to make an omelet”.. Seriously though, I’ll try to figure out a decent way to have a “test mode” for this functionality that only people that know about it can activate for now.

You guys need to get on board with the developer humor. Sheesh.

Sorry, I'm not sure what happened. I rebooted the server.

Thanks Mat. I've been down this road before (smoke machine for vacuum, vacuum gauge to find peak vacuum at idle) but I will need to try again. It seems my theory is debunked haha.

Ok, thank you. Tomorrow is another day!

Haha, no worries! This truck is an odd one for sure. I'll try that again. I've fooled with it before, and it tested out ok and giving it more stroke didn't help. But now that I have eliminated other variables, perhaps it is worth another shot (no pun intended) To give more throw, I should move the rod closer to the carb, or further away????

It is a carb though. EEC-IV Feedback Carb system. I have had the carb gone through and rebuilt twice now, including new accelerator pump. I am not questioning you at all, but applying the Socratic Method here... if it was a fuel/air mixture issue, why would it only present itself under load? I can make the same gas pedal motions in park, and it doesn't have the issue. The truck has a new TPS also, but I haven't tried to test it for dead spots - I'm guessing that's what you think may be happening? The TPS has a dead spot in the beginning of travel so the mixture isn't being adjusted?

It only happens from a stop (1st gear). In general, the engine is responsive throughout the throttle band. You can gun the engine while driving normally and the engine is responsive. It does do it at all temps, but when the truck is cold (just started) the idle RPM is higher so when you press on the gas, the hesitation is much less, or gone. Once the engine is warmed up and the idle has dropped, the hesitation is there at every acceleration from a stop. If you give the gas pedal a little more throttle, you can feel the engine almost "drive over" the stumble and thing will go correctly. If you give the truck just a little bit of gas (as you normally would from a stop), you will feel and hear the engine begin to die. If you give more gas, it will recover (most of the time) but sometimes you may be too late and it will stall anyway. My theory (which is completely unfounded, since I have no practical knowledge in this area) is that if something in the torque converter is compromised and it is taking more work to get going from the engine, then that extra load might be causing the engine to stall. Giving the engine more gas overcomes the issue of the extra load, and is able to stay running. I just don't know enough about torque converters or transmissions in general to answer whether this is a valid theory or not...

I know I have brought this up before, but as a sanity check: Is there any validity in thinking this is somehow tied to my transmission or torque converter? The hesitation is really only when the truck is in drive.

I took the truck for a drive this weekend. Unfortunately the hesitation is still there (I had high hopes), but the good news besides that is when I got done driving it, I ran a KOEO and KOER and both came back completely clean. I think my wiring changes are done for now, but does anyone have a picture how the harness is kept in place? Right now the harness is against the firewall as that's how it was before - it almost brushes up against the kickdown rod for the AOD. I'm wondering if the harness is supposed to go between the block and the kickdown rod instead? I don't think it's really impeding anything as it shifts fine. I just need to either disconnect everything (yuck) and pass the harness through there, or figure out how to affix it to the firewall. Thoughts welcome, or if you have any pictures of how the harness is routed/attached at the rear of the engine, that would be great!

Yep, that's the kind I have. The guy said that if it jams or otherwise go sideways, don't touch it. He says everything is spring-loaded and may not behave in a way you expect. The way he said it, I'm inclined to believe him.

Well, it’s a bit hard to explain. I’m not sure what happened exactly to be honest. I went to go shut it, and when the opener started, it got hung up on the track on one side, and the wire spool on the other side came free. The door got wedged half way down, and the panels warped. It got completely ruined. My truck was in the garage and I did t want to rush the top panel of tv door falling on the bed of my truck (fiberglass on the flareside). The door even though it was wedged was making lots of settling sounds and the guy that came out to try and fix advised me to not touch anything and to board everything up. All in all, a total mess. I miss the old garage doors that were simple. These new ones are complicated and since they are spring loaded, things can go badly if they fail!

Ok, I've been on a roll in the Bullnose world this week. A very long and sordid story short, I got to finally start my truck for the first time since November. I fixed all the issues in the ECU wiring harness around Thanksgiving. It took 18 different splices to get everything fixed up. Then, life got busy as it tends to do that time of year. Then Christmas Eve, my garage door broke (badly) and my truck has been held hostage in my garage while we were waiting for a replacement since the old one had to be dismantled before I could back my truck out. It started right up and I only drove it around the neighborhood, but it drove well. It didn't hesitate at stops either, but I am not declaring victory yet. Hopefully this weekend I can give it a good drive and shake it out!

I hit this same thing recently trying to find replacements for these plugs that are on my drivers side fender. The EEC harness plugs into some of them (C321) - the connector in your picture was either used on both the driver's side front fender and in the rear (don't know for sure), or someone repurposed one of these for the rear. The connectors don't exist anymore that I could find either - I am replacing them with connectors that Gary recommended: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2P8M599