ckuske

True about the paint - I was just happy I was able to find it! If anyone else has a picture, I'd be curious to see what theirs looks like. I'm pretty confident things are good with the grounds to the engine. I know for sure the EEC has a ground to a post on the intake that I redid. I'll try to trace this one back and see if it's part of the same harness coming through the firewall or is something different. My back is better each day, once every couple years I get spasms that lock up my lower back and after a few days the muscles relax and I'm back to normal. It could be worse! Maybe I'll try to relocate that ground - or even jumper it to somewhere else as a test? I still think there is a problem when turning the wheel that is separate. The ohms shouldn't jump around from just turning the wheel. The copper contacts on the switch look a little worn, but I'm assuming since the back of the wheel rubs on that, it's normal? Perhaps I should use fine grit sandpaper and sand the disc on the back of the steering wheel? I'm probably getting ahead of myself - one thing at a time. But I'm trying to anticipate my next move...

Found G703. Another ground I never knew existed, because I never took the ECU or Speed Control Amplifier out of the truck even though I stripped the rest of the interior awhile back. I will try to do some tests tomorrow against this ground, but it looks good. I tweaked my back a few days ago and even though I am motivated to test all these connections, lying on my back over the transmission hump upside down doesn't feel so great that the moment! I had some choice words when I was trying to get the connections off the amplifier... PS - I no idea what that three terminal connector is for. It must not be used in my truck?

I measured ground from the metal collar on the column (right below the wheel) to a dash attachment point, and it came out to zero ohms. Like 0.0 ohms which I thought was kind of suspicious - should I not use the dash mounting legs as the other end of the ground test? The test said to pick body sheet metal - maybe I take a kick panel off and try there are the ground point? If all that is OK though, I'm assuming in general the column is grounded but the continuity from the wheel through the column is bad. Should I pick one of the connection points (aka "ears") on the wheel as one end of this continuity test? (Where the blue/yellow wires attach)

Sure thing - the yellow and blue wires go onto the two ears inside the steering wheel, and the ground wire fits inside one of the bolt holes that are used to pull the wheel. It seems that is normal after doing some reading - it seemed questionable at first...

Good call Cory, that brings back some memories of seeing those! I'm not expecting the stumble upon the original bumper as I remember it at this point (although that would be amazing). I'd just like to find something that is similar in style and size. I think the best path I have is to find a bumper for a smaller truck like a Ranger, S-10 (yuck, haha) or similar, and see about getting custom brackets made from there. I would swear the current bumper is the Fey one I mentioned above, but I emailed their support dept and they wouldn't answer either way.

Here are a few pictures of the steering wheel and the turn signal switch:

I've moved onto my next item: Speed Control not working It was non-operational when I bought the truck back (meaning it never engages/turns on) I've printed out the FSM section, and have started to run tests. I'm at Page 37-01-3 of the FSM. The first test (Test for 12 Volts when On Button Pressed) is passing. But, that's where my luck ends. Step 2 of checking for 0-1 Ohms when pressing the OFF button is failing. When my steering wheel is locked, it seems like the circuit is open. If I put the truck in Run and the steering wheel unlocks, I get a 100-200 Ohms. If I turn the wheel about 1/4 turn, the ohms go down to 40-60, but certainly never to 0-1 Ohms. I'm guessing the back side of the steering wheel isn't making good contact with the brushes on the turn signal switch? The horn is working in different wheel positions, that's never been a problem. Besides checking the brushes (the turn signal switch is brand new, put it about a year ago with very little use), what else should I be looking at if turning the wheel seems to alter the resistance readings?

Good idea! I actually tried that as well. No dice so far, but maybe I'll look for other tools that do the same thing. I sent a message to Fey/Westin asking "what bumper will fit my truck that is around 61 inches wide?" and they said "Can't help you, sorry. We don't make anything for Flaresides." Guess I'll need to buy what I like and figure out how to mount it through some "custom" method.

Here's the FTE link for the curious. The pretty red truck in the thread has the same current bumper as my truck (at least by looks alone). So I'm curious how they mounted that bumper - did they Frankenstein it like the PO of my truck, or bend the brackets?

Yeah, that's kinda the conclusion I came to also. The current bumper is twisted on one side, and has the dent to prove it. I'm not sure how to proceed on this to be honest. I'm just trying to figure out a plan - I'm not going to buy anything immediately. I would like a step bumper that is shorter than the Full-Size ones - ideally in the neighborhood of 60" to 62", and need to figure out how to mount it. The suggested mounting brackets expect a Ranger 33" frame (too narrow) or a Chevy 40.5" frame (too wide). I guess I buy the bumper I want (like this one maybe) and where would I take it from there? A Body Shop? And, I'm tickled pink that I found someone with the same original configuration since I'm sure you all thought I was crazy. It is the EXACT same bumper that I remember!

Nope! It's a truck that was ahead of its time, with identity issues! It mounts to the frame like a Styleside (I think), but the bumper is "stubby" so it doesn't hang out past the tailgate. Here is a picture from underneath my truck:

Happy Birthday! My truck's 40th birthday was 11/18/2023. I briefly mentioned it to my family, but they were not particularly interested.

A little more information: The bumper I currently have is 61.5 inches wide from tip to tip. Looking underneath, the bumper mounts straight onto the frame, no adapters or special brackets. I think the frame is 37.5 inches wide. So, I am looking for something that width that will hookup to a 37.5" inch frame. Or, if the Internet really pulls through, I find out who made the bumper pictured above!

Hi Guys, I've mentioned this before, but an update: I know most Flaresides came with what I call the "skinny" bumper, where the license plate hangs off the driver side with a bracket. However, that's not how my truck was purchased by my Dad off the showroom floor back in '84... It is a step bumper. In the "lost years", that bumper was removed and replaced by a different one. Looking on FTE, maybe it is a S-10 bumper from LMC (it doesn't hang over the flares, which is important if I was to find a new one, as the current bumper is bent on the driver's side) All this being said, on FTE someone else posted a long time ago a picture of the EXACT same bumper that my truck had! Any ideas on the original manufacturer or where to find a compatible step bumper that doesn't look obnoxious on a Flareside would be great. As far as I'm aware, no changes have ever been made to the brackets, unless the Dealer swapped them out originally with Styleside brackets (?) Anyway, here's the picture.

Awesome! The “simple” things tend to evolve into something more, don’t they?!

Thanks everyone for their feedback. I wasn't worried about filling it. I didn't drain the radiator, I just caught what dumped out when I took the thermostat housing off. I put the Gates thermostat in last night, and started it up this morning. The thermostat is opening earlier, and the temperature gauge seems to be happier (right in this middle instead of between A and L) That being said, I am going to put a new connector on the temperature gauge sender, as it wasn't reading until I jiggled it. It's on order and I'll do that in the next few days. On to the next thing (after I scrape together some more $)! Maybe I try to diagnose why the speed control isn't working next... (it hasn't worked since I got the truck back - my guess is the controller next to the computer - but are the common failure modes?)

Yikes! Might be worth it though. You can be the first to tell me "I told you so" when I come back whining that this thermostat failed too. And, when I have to yell and scream at the bottom bolt of the housing after trying to get it out for an hour of fooling around with my 1/2" ratchet wrench one "click" at a time. I should have waited and spent the money, but I want to drive my truck!

I haven't found an aftermarket housing that is an oval shape at the top to accommodate the Motorcraft theromostat. I did find some NOS housings, but they are around $150 on eBay. It seems like a lot to pay for a $8 thermostat. I may regret it, but I put the Gates in and will try it tomorrow morning...

Any opinions on if I should drill a small hole in the Gates thermostat to serve as the "jiggle pin" hole? (Oriented at 12 o'clock) I think based on what I am seeing, I don't have much choice but to go with the Gates one, as it is the only one out of the three that I've purchased that fits in the housing properly.

Thanks Jim. Stant was my first thought too. Motorad owns them now also. I’m aware of the gasket helping the install. But, the thermostat not sitting flush in the housing will cause a problem, right? I imagine water would find its ways past… The jiggle pin is at 12 o’clock Sorry for the rotation, did this from my phone for now.

Correction, the new Motorad one doesn't fit either! Same "out of round" issue. (I got the idea to try the Fail-Safe one, but decided to not use it after reading lots of reports of them failing open when the engine really didn't overheat)

Hi Guys, I have been suspicious that my thermostat may be sticky or only partially opening, so I bought a new Motorcraft RT-1139 (192 degree, fitment guide says it should work). I also bought a Motorad and a Gates (which I found out is Motorad in disguise) first, but I read some bad things about them, and I am replacing a Motorad. So, I figured I'd go OEM anyway. Anyway, I got the new thermostat and did a fit check inside the housing. The thermostat has one section on the top that is "out of round", meaning one side has a bump on it that prevents it from going into my thermostat housing fully. It doesn't fully seat into the recess, there side with the "out of round" side is prevented from going into the housing fully. I've tried rotating it, I can't find to seem any angle where it seats properly. The Motorad and Gates sit flush. Has anyone else encountered this? The housing is aftermarket, but I'm not sure what it's origin is. It needs to be a 90 degree, and have a threaded hole in the top for a temperature driven vacuum switch. Here's a picture of the new thermostat with the area I'm wondering about circled. I think I just bought the wrong thermostat - given my situation, is there a Motorcraft thermostat that I known to work and isn't a 40 year old NOS part? Or is there a different housing I should be using?

Man, I tell you, even expansive the Lee was one of my best move while restoring Big Brother. So quiet. And plug’n play! Great to hear! Hopefully I can get that done this summer.

Yes, I grinned to myself while writing that as well.

Just wanted to post a brief update. Things done so far since last Thanksgiving (that feels like last week!) 1. EEC Wiring Harness repaired (18 splices, other repairs and new connectors later). Thank you Bill, for the wire donations! No more codes in KOEO or KOER. 2. Entire exhaust system replaced (not including manifolds). New Y-Pipe, two CARB compliant cats, Magnaflow muffler, and tailpipe location restored back to stock location. (Was faux "dual pipe" exhaust coming out below the rear bumper). It had some rust in it, and there was worry that the cats were partially clogged. The hesitation may be better since this change, but I'm not willing to really say either way yet based on just driving it home from the shop yesterday. The exhaust is now a little quieter than before, which I am good with. However, the junk Cardone P/S pump whines louder than my exhaust. I think the Lee CII P/S pump replacement is next on my list... I've been driving it more often, and things are looking and feeling better. Next project is to remove the bed and clean/paint the rear portion of the truck frame, put new wood blocks on for the bed, and put new bed wood down in general. Then, just paint is left ()