ckuske

Would using a Wago connector be another way of doing it?

Based on it being a 351 HO, I think these are the parts included in your calibration (you should still look for the tag when you get the truck, sorry I forgot it was still in VA)

I went that way for Big Brother's radio. Bluetooth, hands free phone, nice sound, even sub woofer possibility. Not cheap, but I am fully satisfied. Very nice! That's the same radio I have, but with a cassette deck as well. It was fun (and humbling) explaining to my 13 and 16 year olds how a cassette worked...

Welcome to the forum! I live in Ventura County. You will need to pass a dyno test for sure. The CA smog laws are a bit Byzantine, but I think not all trucks had all the same smog controls. If it was a 49 state truck, it will have a subset of the full package (my truck was built for CA, so it has every device and vacuum device imaginable). The reason I mention this is the the truck needs to "only" have whatever smog controls it was originally equipped with. You don't need all CA smog devices on the same year truck if it wasn't originally built that way (that's what I recall, at least) Is there a metal tag attached to the carb? That will give the calibration code, and we can figure out some of what you need from there as well. The tag on my carb is E4TE-AHA for example.

Just putting a catchup post here since I posted questions to other threads. Engine miss/stumble at high idle fixed: Reman ECU installed from Cardone. KOEO and KOER now pass. (first time ever since I bought it back) Engine hesitation: Found one vacuum leak via smoke tester, but didn't resolve the issue. Bumped up idle (in park) to around 1100 RPM, in gear it is around 750/800. Hesitation gone. Will try to knock the idle down a little bit as it's a little high I think. Radio getting updated with modern electronics, due back in a couple weeks. Steering column disassembled: My son was complaining about how hard it is to start (I guess I have strong hands?) Ignition tumbler and associated rod/linkages lubricated. Ignition switch and turn directional switches replaced (Hazards now work again!) also. Tilt bale clip broke, but found another on eBay for ten bucks. A/C scheduled to get charged up next week, decided to buy a new compressor on advice of the guy doing it (not sure if compressor works at all, and he says if it blows it will contaminate everything I just replaced) Working a few odds and ends: Need to replace a few vacuum lines, the hard lines don't stay in a vacuum tee anymore and they've popped out on me a few times. Code 31 returns on KOEO sometimes... jiggle the wires and it goes away. Not sure if it is wiring damage or the connector, but its clear if you mess with the wires it goes away. Need to get AOD pressure adjusted, it is too high even when backing the carb screw out all the way. Don't want to mess with it at the transmission, and I don't trust my gauge that much (from Amazon)

I'll post a pic when I get it back, I have the guts being swapped out with modern electronics. The tape deck will still work, and it will work and look like the original radio but also have Bluetooth audio and hands free calling as well as USB charging. (https://sierraclassiccaraudio.com/) It's not cheap to get it converted, but audio is one of those things I'm picky about so I'm willing to pay more. I really want to keep the original look and be able to play cassettes for nostalgia, so I feel this is a pretty good compromise!

Gotcha, thanks Gary!

I'm looking to restore the original wiring to my factory radio (well, using the existing connectors on the back of the radio). I've run new wire to the doors and have the speakers installed. I am looking to find new pins to crimp or solder to my speaker wires and insert those pins into the stock connector (the wires were removed from the connector, argh!) My question is this - for the negative wire coming from each speaker, I need to splice them together to put them into the new pin and into the stock connector, correct? I imagine it would be best to splice them together a few inches before the connector, and have the piece of wire "post-splice" go onto the new pin and into the connector, correct? I just want to make sure there isn't a way of doing this I'm not thinking of. I have 16 gauge wire running to the doors now, is anyone aware of what pins I should use? My radio is off getting repaired so I don't have it in front of me, but I'd like to have what I need by the time it arrives. Thanks!

Fixed! Login now works as well.

Yep, a local shop offered to adjust it at the transmission for me since I already backed the screw out near the carb. It shifts pretty close at all points except shifting into 4th. You pretty much HAVE to take your foot off the gas to get it to downshift, and that only works near 55mph. I drove the truck around and the idle was a little high (a touch above1000 RPM in park, 650 or 700 RPM or so in drive) but the stumble/acceleration issue was gone. I turned the idle back down a bit (but not like it was before) and lo and behold, the hesitation came back. It definitely seems tied to lower idle. I'm going to leave it where it is (I moved it back to the numbers above) and get the transmission adjusted - if the pressure is too high, getting it lowered will make putting it into gear etc a little less jarring. It's not bad, but when you shift into drive now, you can tell the higher idle makes it "jump" getting into gear. Shifts while driving are fine, but a little late.

Thanks! And thanks to you and everyone else for hanging in there with me. On to the next layers of the onion!

So I bumped the curb idle to a little over 600 RPM (was probably 480-500 before) and ran the KOER test, verifying as best I can that the AOD pressure is still good. (Although I read more pressure is better than less). The pressure after turning the screw near the carb down is around 15 psi in Park, and with the gauge tool installed, just under 40. I turned the screw on the rod adjustment near the carb almost all the way out. I won't mess with it for now as long as the shift points still make sense (I've seen Bill's posts about 15, 25,and 45 MPH being the appropriate shift points at 1500 RPM). In the times I've driven the truck recently, shifting into overdrive took longer than it used to in the old days (but it still shifts smooth) so I'm hoping I get closer to the ideal. I may take it to a transmission shop for them to do an adjustment at the transmission to get it perfect. Anyways, the results of the KOER: Code 11! I have never had a clean KOER as long as I have owned the truck. The code 35 was Idle too low... I'm guessing code 45 was being thrown as the EGR/emissions test couldn't be run due to the low idle. Either way, it's good to go. It also sounds better... just more consistent and solid like a truck should. I should have bought a new ECM a long time ago I think, I've been chasing ghosts in the machine for over a year. I've run out of time to take it on the road today, but hopefully tomorrow. I anticipate good things.

Thanks, that's correct. This is a 302 with the 2150 carb and TFI (EEC-IV) - a California truck. I bought a pressure gauge anticipating this a month or so ago when the truck came back from getting the carb worked on last time, and the idle seemed a little low. During the KOER test, the engine gets very close to stalling at the moment. I watched some YouTube videos on adjusting the AOD pressure, I'll watch those again before I try anything.

Thanks, progress is something I have not had in some time! The Internet is well.. the Internet, but looking at multiple sources a KOEO of 35 means EVP signal problems. A KOER of 35 seems to mean the idle RPM is too low to test the EGR, and this is something that I have noted as being a little low. So, I'll bump it up and see if it helps code 35. It may mean I need to adjust the AOD rod though... (if it increases more than 50 RPM) Then, I'll chase the code 45 (bad TAB/TAD solenoid?)

I have to leave again (kids are keeping me busy!) but I just ran a KOER and got 35 (EVP again!?!? - but a little different) and 45 (thermactor solenoids maybe?) as running codes. I'll fire up Google, but any suggestions are appreciated. My idle is low, so I’ll bump that up and see if it clears Code 35.

Ok, hopefully I am not speaking too soon. I had to leave home for a bit before I was able to finish things, but: The new ECU came in today. I installed it, and I ran a KOEO. NO CODES I then started the truck up, and it went to high idle. No misses or stumbles at all. I then gave it a quick punch of the gas and it stalled. BUT, I did change the accelerator pump throw in desperation move. I am going to change it back to the middle position it was in before later today, then hopefully take a test drive. Two of the three issues are fixed just by starting/testing in the garage. Hopefully the stumble at acceleration is fixed as well! I am guessing it will be, as the EGR/EVP is now getting processed properly by the system. I’ll check back in later, stay tuned…

Neither am I, which I why I appreciate everyone's comments and support while helping me through figuring this stuff out! If its the picture I am thinking of, what you are referring to is a deposit of coating from the old gasket that was on the EGR, it is not etched. I should have cleaned if off before posting the picture. You are right about not letting the engine run long enough. I am trying to run it longer these days, and I hope to fix this problem and get in on the road more often. I can drive it as-is, but I want it to be solid for my son who's just learning to drive. I ordered a ECU, it will be here tomorrow. The plan is to plug it in and run a KOEO test first, and just see if the same codes are reported or things are "OK" then go from there. I've run the wiring tests for the EVP and everything seems to be passing, so hopefully the ECU is the problem and things run right! (No hesitation from an ECU fault in EVP circuit, and miss gone at high RPM)

Ok, I just ran those two tests.. Ohming out EVP to SIGRET was "0L" which means infinite resistance. EVP to the battery was 6.7 MOhms. This means I need a new processor, right? (The processor is disconnected, as that is what the instructions say to do. I'm still not 100% on that for some reason...)

I can't find the link now, but I just buzzed out those pin combinations (27/40, and 46/60) on the ECU connector. There is no continuity between those pairs of pins. I'm not sure if the EVP sensor connector is supposed be disconnected or not during this test. Also, I found this pinpoint test, but the wording is a little confusing to me. Am I supposed to plug the ECU back in for the last bullet in the test, or leave it disconnected? Its not clear to me how the readings could be ok checking continuity of EVP to SIGRTN and EVP to battery ground. Oh, ok, wait. We are checking for a short. I will check it... The ECU connector looks ok, but there is some yellowish grease in some of the pins - not sure if this is dielectric grease or what.

Well I cracked it open, there was a little bit of leaves, sticks, etc in there. Just a couple pieces of junk. No loose components, no leaking caps, I don't see any burnt traces on the PCB. But I am not an expert. Ok, time to buzz out the ECU connector.

Yep, that’s the plan tomorrow! In the Fuel section of the parts catalog, my truck is either Calibration 376 or 409 (not sure which, the label on the valve cover is long gone)

Thanks, I got it pulled out no sweat. There is something small rattling around inside - maybe not a screw, but probably something that shouldn't be there! If the wiring checks out, it looks like the Cardone reman unit is the most common/available. Any reason I should go somewhere else? Recommendations? The ID number on it is E43F-12A650-Z1A

Thanks Gary, I'm back. It was weird to be back out into the world after three years at home... (mostly) I fired up the truck in the garage and let it run for a good 10 minutes or so, just to give everything a little "stretch" and confirm the problems were still there. I didn't take it on the road, but the stumble at high idle is there still. I confirmed also that if you kick the idle down, the problem is "gone". If you give some gas back to around 2000 RPM, the problem appears again. It occurred to me that normally when I run the KOEO, the engine is cold. So, I ran a KOEO again after it was warmed up. I got one code: 31. I had seen this before a couple years ago, but I replaced the EVP sensor and it went away. I ran the test multiple times - same code every time. There were a few continuous codes also, but I'll gloss over those for now. I also ran a KOER and got 31 on there first, along with a few others. I'm surprised that all of the sudden I have KOEO codes again, but if the ECM is going bad, then maybe it is not a shock. I verified that there is 5VDC on the VREF line. I then backprobed SIGRTN to EVP, and it was tough to get a reading. At one point, I got .21VDC, but I have read it should be at least .25VDC. I then jumpered VREF to EVP, as I read that the code should change from 31 to 35. It didn't, it stayed at 31. So, I think this means I have more bad wiring all of the sudden (and I didn't touch that portion of the harness), or the ECM is on its way out. The next recommended step is to take off the ECM connector and check for (lack of) continuity between pins 27/40, and 46/60. If there is, then it indicates an wiring issue. If it checks out, it means my ECM is bad (most likely?). My ECM is behind the I/P, between the radio and instrument cluster. It looks like I can take the connector off to check the pins, but if that passes, how do I remove the ECM? Do I need to take the dash pad off? Or the whole thing () It looks like a bear to remove, and I think I remember some screws on the side between the frame that holds the ECM and the ECM itself?

I got it downloaded, thanks! I don't have a printer but I know someone who does

Very clever! If you could send me the file so that I could print a copy, that'd be great! Contact me via a DM in the forum and I'll send you my email address.