ckuske

Hi Everyone, I know this horse is pretty black and blue via other posts, but your advice always points me in the right direction, and my symptoms are a little different (I think) Let me break down the symptoms, and what is done and what I maybe think is the next thing to look into. Then, you can let me know if it makes sense or if I should go do something else with my spare time. My recurring symptom is as follows: My truck starts easily, and drives well for the most part. But, it has one symptom that is gnawing at me. And, my son wants to start driving it (3rd generation in the same truck!) but I'm hesitant for this one issue. When the truck is at a stop (and in drive), if you give it let's say 1/4" to 1/2" of pedal travel (to slowly pull away), there is a dead spot adding a little more travel doesn't translate to more power or RPMs. And, if you leave the gas pedal at that area, the engine will stall about half the time. My son is nervous (he JUST got his permit) about this happening, although I showed him how to shift into neutral and restart as you're rolling down the road... If you are a little more generous with the gas pedal (let's say 3/4" to 1" of travel), you basically skip the symptoms and pull away nicely. But, you definitely have to have a feel for the right amount to give it. My kid definitely doesn't have that feel yet. If you try to glide away or pull up with a small amount of gas, you run the risk of stalling the truck. Once you're going down the road, there is no hesitation or delay. If you're idling in park, you can't make it do the same thing even with the same amount of pedal travel. This problem has existed since I bought the truck back. The carb has been rebuilt twice by the local expert. He seems knowledgeable, but I have mentioned this issue to him twice and it is still lingering. He says that the mixture is lean on these trucks anyway (especially CA trucks) and when the EGR opens, it makes it worse. Basically, he is saying there is nothing to be done. I know this truck didn't always have this issue - it certainly didn't when it was new, or even 20 years ago. So, now to what I've done so far: Gotten the carb rebuilt (twice)Adjusted accelerator pump throw from Hole 2 to Hole 3 (no Hole 4 present) Other theories on the list of things to try include: Check for vacuum leaks via smoke testIdle is a little low after warmed up - ~500 RPM. Curb idle is supposed to be 575. Would that difference in vacuum cause something to not actuate somewhere????Just to lay all the cards on the table, there is another issue I feel is unrelated, but... When you first start the truck, for the first 30/45 seconds, it seems to miss while in high idle (~1800 RPM). It will be idling, you'll hear a pause in the exhaust and the tach will dip. It will then recover. If you kick the idle down, it goes away. If you let it warm up and then try to go at the same RPM, it's fine. I figured I would confess all my sins in one shot... This one is hard to describe. Maybe I'll do a video and post it. If you're still reading this, thanks for reading this novella. I've wanted to write about it for awhile, but was hoping it would go away... it hasn't.

Hi Dave, I've never sold anything on eBay before as "retail", so I was starting with the "bare" door to test the waters. I didn't see a way to add variations, so I would need to make another listing for the deluxe version. If you'd like to get going before that, just hop on over to https://bullnosecreations.square.site/ where you can order either type. I'll work on getting the deluxe version listed as well. Thanks! Chris

Thanks to you both! Look forward to any more details on the bed, I know it is kind of an odd request. My alternative would be to remount the bed with the rotten wood in place, but that seems weird too. I’m not sure which way to go on this. As for the paint, I agree Gary! As much as I want the truck to be restored to its original condition, I don't want to pay double what the truck is worth just for it to be a different shade of blue...

Man, you're fast! I just sat down to post the item on eBay with a full cup of coffee, and I still have a half-cup and it's still warm!

Still waiting for my paint from Eastwood... Well, while I wait I have a question regarding the wood in my bed. When I remove my bed apart to work on the rear end of the truck, can I put the bed back on without the wood installed? In other words, I am wondering what components of the bed are structural. Will everything hold together with the bed "open"? I am thinking yes but wanted to make sure. Paint is still a little ways away, and I don't want to install the new wood until the truck has been painted. I've been looking for a paint shop. After going to three different shops, to take it to metal and repaint is 20K. Painting over the existing stuff (but still sanding, removing fenders/bed to shoot everything the right way, filling chips/dents, etc) is 10K. Better, but sheesh! I was hoping for between 5,000 and 8,000. A friend got a "spray and pray" from Maaco on his Chevy and that was 2000. (But I'm looking for better than that) Other updates: My battery finally pooped out so I went a bought a new one from Napa. It's a Group 64 with 620CCA. That should do for a bit! The previous battery was at least 5 years old, if not more. I will check for parasitic draw before I hook it up, but I'm waiting on new fuses for my multimeter. I made a mistake and let's say I can't check for draw on my meter until the new fuses come

That's great, Gary. Thanks for all of your work on this, it's truly appreciated. As an FYI, we are now selling a variation where we will provide the hardware and pre-attach the foam (for an added cost) for those who don't want to fuss with it.

No worries, hopefully someone can use one (not that I wish them needing one, it is not a fun repair) from this forum. Gary, I stumbled across some pictures with all the hardware and foam attached from the door that is now installed in my truck. They are on the product page. I'll put a few here also:

Hello everyone, I've put a site together for orders now: https://bullnosecreations.square.site/ If anyone has any questions or comments moving forward, please let me know! Thanks to Gary for putting that page together. I hope I can help some other people out in this area - if anyone has other needs we may be able to help with (clips, knobs, etc?) drop us a line. @Gary - I also put a PDF of the instructions on the site, you can either fetch the latest version from there or link to it, completely up to you: https://bullnosecreations.square.site/uploads/b/6d830f80-9090-11ed-9df9-09891cea7630/Bullnose%20Blend%20Door%20Instruction%20Sheet.pdf

That's more than fine, Gary. The tabs look great. Thank you! I'll let you know when I finish the doc - I'm supposed to pick up the next two doors from Marshall tomorrow, I will use one to take pics and update the document this weekend (I hope?)

Sure, that'd be great! I'm putting together a "shop" site on Square for people to order etc. Once it's closer to being ready, I'll send you the link to that. Marshall is printing a few more doors, and I'll use one of those to take better pictures of the door etc.

Argh! I don't know what's up with that URL shortener. I'll figure that out, in the meantime I've put the real links in as suggested. Thanks for testing it (again!)

Thanks guys, I revised the document. Thanks for your feedback James, I need to track down a parts list I put on my PC somewhere. I'm afraid I may have cleaned it up lately... Gary, I'm not sure why the link worked before but I just tried it and you are correct. Too weird. Anyway, I've updated the URL shortener link and now the links seem tow work? You may need to refresh your browser after pulling the document up to make sure you have the latest.

Hmm, that's odd. I normally don't share stuff in Google Docs, but I said to make it visible to anyone with the link. Try this link instead? https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vRGQd5t9Duvc-cPTHX_5Htp008XX9NWEk9yVLh2RF9-Y2WUZkzy6iuSfF1iif-aaOGobEwsfV3F3cDZ/pub I'll update the document as well. Everyone else is welcome to chime in too, of course!

Instead of making it difficult, I've documented everything I know of to this point. This is a rough draft that I will try to add pictures to as well, but this gist of it (which will be the shipping instruction sheet) is here for review: https://docs.google.com/document/d/14cTm0ch4kAb7OuphZw4G_-3VxWlo_ntvjl-rFzAq7zs/edit?usp=sharing Gary and James, if you have feedback I can make you an editor if you wish to contribute. I tried to strike a line between being pedantic with the details but giving a good mental walkthrough of the steps needed to someone that hasn't put one in before.

Sure Gary, thanks for the offer. I will write something up and get it to you! It is up to you at the end of the day, but maybe I'll send it to you in HTML so it's already formatted etc.

Hi All, First off, thanks to James and Gary for putting some documentation together! I have a bad habit as a software person at skirting documenting my work... Yes, the plan is to sell them. My friend Marshall did all the CAD design, and has the 3D printer. I'm just a guy with an old truck, and Marshall came to the rescue. I am a software engineer (don't hold that against me! haha), not a business major. But, after discussing the print time, Marshall's time in designing it, etc., $60 USD + S/H "feels" right. This won't be a money maker for me per se, just a hobby and to help the community. Maybe I'd be able to afford a few more things on eBay occasionally with the money... I know that Jeff's Bronco Graveyard sells the NOS (?) door for $69 (on sale, normally $119), and that design doesn't hold up like this new one will. The $60 would be for the "bare" door that I just sent to James. The door comes pre-attached to the hinge. You angle it in and fasten it to the plenum. There is no foam attached, or hardware to fasten it to the plenum. I would add an instruction page (and put a printed copy in the box) where I would recommend screws, nuts, and a source on Amazon for the foam. I could maybe have a "deluxe" kit to include these things, but I figure most people will want to source these things to their preferences etc. If demand is there, I could set up a Shopify style website to sell them. I don't know if the volume will be there for that. For now, if anyone wants one, they can just message me or reply on this thread and we will go from there. Both James and I got so excited that we put our doors in without taking proper pictures! I will ask Marshall to print another door and I'll update this thread with good pictures etc.

It is very nice here. I grew up here, so I am a bit spoiled - you pay for the real estate though (and draconian smog laws, don't get me started)... Just following up, I got the solenoid installed and all is well! Thank you for all your help and advice.

Thanks to you both. Those were the pointers I was looking for to remain out of the Darwin Awards. Thank you!

So it seems my gas gauge doesn’t work. I’m assuming the float is bad and filled with gas (gauge reads empty, barely rises when the tank is full) Here’s the twist: The wood in my bed is rotted away above the fuel tank - this is on the list of things to fix. But in the meantime, I can access the sending unit from above. Obviously I shouldn’t have a full tank, but I am asking the experienced guys about safety here: If I can access/replace the sender from above and obviously I keep flame/electricity/spark away, is there any need to drop the tank?

Thanks Jim! Gonna try it today or tomorrow. Hope you’re having a good holiday and staying warm. Not to be a jerk but it’s 80 here. I wish it was somewhere between this and the eastern half of the country!

Dang message rotation. Sorry.

That was my theory. I got a little confused as I looked at pictures of 84s with 302s, and they had the solenoid on the left. It didn’t occur to me that they weren’t EEC equipped though. I’ll put the new solenoid on today or tomorrow. I found some examples on the web about how the wires would typically be installed ignoring the I terminal):

First of all, Merry Christmas! I just got the new solenoid in the mail from Maniac (https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/66001044.html). There are no directions, and no markings on the solenoid. I have a 50/50 shot, but how badly will things go if I hook the positive cable up to the wrong side? Here is a picture of my existing solenoid, just as an FYI (this is an old picture). Obviously the new one looks different, but I'm not worried about that as long as there isn't some tidbit I'm not aware of regarding functionality. The ears on the new solenoid look like they'll be in the right spot for the existing fender screw holes, etc...

Thanks! Next project is to take the bed off, paint the frame on the rear half of the truck (waiting for Eastwood, they are out of stock for the paint I use at the moment), and it needs a new pinion seal on the diff. Then hopefully Santa brings some interior parts, like door panels etc.

Thanks for the links Jim! Good to know there is a source for these. Seems like something to not experiment with, you know?