ckuske

So, I will be the first to admit that I am still learning regarding the intricacies of carburetion. When the idle is set a bit higher than it should be, the hesitation is minimal or even gone. I don't like having the truck idle at 1200 RPM in drive though. That being said, it seems that functionally the higher idle causes higher vacuum, or perhaps maybe even takes the idle circuit out of the equation. If there's no transition from the idle circuit to the main circuit, there's no hesitation. I'm reasonably confident the carb is clean and overall functioning properly. But, I think the high idle "good behavior" is a good hint. What else besides the transfer slots may be involved. Does the level of vacuum control the power valve? Maybe I have a power valve or something else that is "too firm". What can get take out of the equation with a higher (too high) idle? If I am making someone chuckle with this train of though or using the wrong nomenclature when thinking through this, I apologize. I leave this alone for a week or two then it starts bugging me again...

I applied the silicon lube and things got much better. I then noticed of all things that most of the squeaking was coming from the knob on the door handle! It never occurred to me to check that until everything else got so smooth. It's like butter now, thanks all.

Thanks everyone. I have some Super Lube on the way, I’ll try it tomorrow and see if it helps. I suppose that the regulator is more likely to make noise if it’s having to fight against the rubber/felt. I’m hoping that will help for now, I’m trying to hold off on replacing all the felt/rubber until I get the truck painted.

My windows were difficult to roll up, especially the drivers window. I bought new manual window regulators. I ordered them from Bronco Graveyard, but the passenger side was backordered. So, I ordered a passenger side regulator from Amazon. I installed both - the passenger side is great. Smooth, no squeaks. Like new. The drivers side squeaks both ways, but especially on roll up. I thought maybe I got a bad one, and it was a different brand than the good one on the passenger side. So, I ordered the same brand for the drivers side. I installed it tonight, and it squeaks just as badly as the first one! It's hard to pinpoint the sound exactly, but it really seems to be coming from the new regulator on the "worm gear" (that's what I'm going to call it) that the handle attaches too. I've sprayed WD-40 white lithium grease into it, tried to squeeze normal white lithium grease into the small gap between the crank and the housing to the regulator, but it made no difference. Everything is fastened nice and tight, there is no play in anything. I read that maybe the window channels need to be lubricated with silicone grease to help the window to roll up and down more smoothly, but I would think that would apply more to power windows as far as stopping squeaking/squealing. Any ideas?

I warmed it up and drove it around at 4 turns. Not really any different. I opened it up to a total 4.75 turns, maybe a *little* improvement, but not much. How much more should I try to back them out? Maybe I have a vacuum leak somewhere still (manifold, carb, etc?). If it wasn't in the normal boots/fittings etc, would it only manifest at idle like it does? I have ran a couple smoke tests and can't find anything. Normal acceleration/driving is just fine. It's just the transition from idle to the main carb circuit.

I got it hot enough today. It definitely works! The wind really kicked up with very hot air, and the temp gauge dropped a little bit after that...

Gotcha, thanks to both you and Mat. I didn't get it on the road as life always interrupts me, but I did the procedure today. I started at 1.5 turns (I first bottomed the screws out, and counted 3.25 turns on that). The truck started fine, and ran fine at fast idle (I wasn't sure what circuit fast idle used). I let it warm up, then kicked the throttle down. Engine died within a couple seconds. I then started backing the screw off. It stayed running at 2 turns, but rough. I then went in .5 turn increments. These are the results in vacuum (hg): 2: 17 2.5: 20.5 3.0: 21 3.5: 21.5 4.0: 21.5+ 4.5: 21.5+ After 4.x+ turns, I stopped seeing any vacuum difference and the exhaust was smelling pretty rich, so I turned the screws in to 4 turns total. So, after everything I'm 3/4 turn richer than before at the moment, we will see how that goes. I was going to crank the idle RPM down but didn't want to introduce another variable, so we will test as-is first to see if the tip-in is better.

Thanks. I wasn’t sure if it was important to have one directly from the carb. I know that sounds silly, but I prefer to confirm things instead of making faulty assumptions.

Gotcha, thanks guys. I won't have much time to play with the truck tomorrow, but hopefully I can get to this sometime this week. I'll make sure to note how much it takes to get from the current position of each screw to "barely snug", and then go from there. (For my own sanity to get back here if things go wonky, or as Jim said get the truck back to a known passing smog config) Regarding vacuum - should I use the PCV port on the front? Or brake booster? Does it matter? (As long as it's not ported vacuum)

Thanks, I was convinced that the screws would be behind the tamper resistant covers, but they are not! They are out in the open, so that's great. I'm wondering if I should do the "real" procedure of putting them all the way in then backing them out 1.5 turns then doing the vacuum gauge to find peak vacuum. Or, just back both out maybe 1/4 or 1/8 of a turn from where they are now and drive it and see how it goes. I know the right answer, but I don't want to fool with it more than necessary if that makes any sense. Even if I do the full thing, I sort of feel I should leave it a tad on the rich side than at completely optimal vacuum - but I am just probably biased against having any lean condition at this point.

I’ll have to look at this. I just put a reman Cardone pump on my truck and it is noisy. I bled it and all the things. Unfortunately the pump I had (the original C2) had a big leak but was quiet as can be.

Thanks Mat, I appreciate it! I'm lowering it bit by bit trying to find the point where it gets finicky. Then I'll try as you suggest. How much should I try turning the idle mixture screw on the first try? 1/2 turn? 1/4 turn? I haven't fooled with them before, I seem to recall they are behind a cover of some sort to keep people from fooling with them???

Well I've been grazed a time or two, but he hasn't had a direct hit lately. I got the radio back, and installed it. Sounds good! I used Wago connectors for the first time and I'm happy with them so far. I didn't have much length on the power wire at all, so this seemed a like a non-destructive way to use the wire I had. Besides that, I'm still knocking the idle down a little bit at a time to find the lowest RPM where coming off idle and accelerating doesn't introduce a stumble. The solenoid that bumps up the RPM when the A/C kicks on is working, so that is good. The RPM still dips a little, but isn't as big of a dip. (The A/C guy didn't reconnect it, and I spotted that right away!). I am also going to replace the hard vacuum lines (plastic/nylon?) with colored silicone lines. I have one connection that doesn't leak but the line is basically only "barely snug" in the T-fitting that it's pressed into. I have Door Panels on order from LMC, and all my play money for a little bit is now gone. Thankfully my birthday is next month. Lastly, the electrical connectors for the A/C were/are cracked, the clips are snapped off. 40 year old plastic. I got new ones in today, and hope to replace them (soldering them) this weekend.

Same here!

Here is the picture, I didn't forget! The radio came back, and it is nice. Very easy to set up and good sound. I wired everything up in 30 minutes. I now have Bluetooth with Hands Free, AM/FM work as before, and charging for my cell phone. The tape deck still works as well, but that's more for the novelty at this point. One tape I have works fairly well, the other gets kicked out by the radio if you try to rewind it...

Hi Wayne, It won't, sorry. The term "blend door" is a bit of a misnomer. I've seen it referred to as several different things. There is a separate cable which controls the mix of warm and cold(er) air. The door mentioned here controls the routing of air to the vents vs the defroster.

Sorry Dave, I totally missed this. I should have had an email subscription set up for this thread. I have been getting most of my sales through eBay. I think I will add another listing for the "deluxe" version. I have had to bump the price up a little bit, eBay takes a big chunk out of each sale for fees. Here is the updated listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/195725950613 I also put a second listing up for the Deluxe version: https://www.ebay.com/itm/195728072421

I'll let it be for now and see how it behaves as it warms up. I just wanted to verify this sort of behavior is typical. Thanks all!

Glad to hear you see the same behavior! Since there is no feedback from the coolant temp sensor to the fan clutch, the fan clutch must be engaged by the ambient temperature inside the engine compartment, correct? I'm sure outside ambient temp factors in as well. It's supposed to be warmer here this weekend, perhaps I'll see different behavior.

I'll start by saying this... I know better now. I bought and installed a Severe Duty Fan Clutch (Four Seasons 36704) for my truck when it was running hot when I first bought it back. I've barely driven it since then, but hope to ramp up. When I got my A/C done yesterday, the guy said "your fan clutch acts weird, it never really kicks in". I told him that I had noted the same thing, but didn't really have anything to compare it to. The behavior is this: When started cold, the clutch is engaged. There is lots of airflow. After about 60 seconds, the clutch disengages. The issue is even when the truck is fully warmed, it never really seems to meaningfully re-engage. This is only at ~70F ambient, so that may be the issue. The clutch isn't shot, I can barely move the blades more than a few inches when everything is cold. The fan clutch currently installed is is a severe duty model... at the time I assumed "severe is better than heavy, so why not?". I was naive, didn't know to check part numbers, the MPC, etc. Now going to Rockauto, the Heavy Duty has a match to the part number in the MPC. Am I correct that having the severe duty clutch installed sets a higher threshold to lock up maybe? I read that a severe duty will lock up harder than a standard or heavy, but it didn't mention the threshold to lock up, only the amount of clutch lockup once it is engaged. (https://www.rockauto.com/genImages/93/4s410-fan-clutches-standard-heavy-severe.pdf) This seems to be a better fit (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=815302&cc=1121443&pt=6812&jsn=1735), but I want to make sure I can expect different behavior. The other option is that I just haven't driven it in hot enough weather yet? But, I want cool air to be pulled in to help cool the A/C condenser. Thoughts?

Is it currently printed in PLA, or ABS?

Now I just have to dodge Mr. Murphy!

Oh, I also got a rubber shifter insulator I found on eBay. I think it's the right one. The one on the column is old and cracked with age and makes the shifter have a little play. I think I just need to remove the pin holding the shifter in place, pull the old insulator, then put it back together.

OK, more progress. The AC is now operational again. Got a new compressor and got everything charged. 39 degrees F at the vents. Just gotta get the radio back (should be done later this week) and I'll be happy as a clam in the cab. Still need door panels and carpet though, then the interior is really done. Yesterday while taking the truck to the AC shop, I noticed that the steering wheel had to be about 1/8 of a turn to the right to track straight. I pulled the steering wheel last week to service the column. I put tape on the column and the wheel before pulling it to put it back in the same spot. Maybe I did this with the column locked, then put it back when unlocked? Either way, it is annoying. So, I went back to Autozone to rent the puller again. Sigh. Even when I think I'm doing the right thinking and thinking ahead, it turns out I am not. Let's see - what else. Looking to replace the fuel sender next. Oh, and the window regulators which I've already bought. I have about $275 left of mad money to play with until I need to consult my better half again. I can't buy the carpet, door panels, and sender with that amount. So I will have to prioritize. I think the sender and door panels. That way when the radio comes back, I can do the window regulators, finish the radio wiring, apply the Dynamat, and button it all up. Putting the carpet in will be next after that.

I remember cars of that era having an analog clock in the dash/instrument panel, so it wouldn't feel out of place. I like my tach, but I could see this being a good use of the space for those without tachs!