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Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

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ReneH

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

So...the oilpressure sensor has a metric M5 and the water temperature some conical threat...no way to get a nut on it...4mm in diameter at the top...I will use another connector to plug it...

René's Profile

Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6
Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic

ReneH

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

In reply to this post by 85lebaront2

Ok...now I'm a bit confused...

It seems that all ignition key cables are hot all times...maybe I have done an error somewhere, but I don't know where...

If I check the connection between the downside big post (goes to the starter motor) and the smaller silver one that should go to ignition switch start signal...there is a connection...

All this cable except the green-red one, seems to be on battery plus...is this correct?

What's about this one on the driver's side?
In my understanding as follows:
Yellow-green = battery plus
Red-blue = to starter solenoid (ignition switch start signal)
White-blue and white-rose = ignition run
Black-green = GND
Green-white and red-yellow = I don't know.
Red-white = water gauge
White-red = oil pressure gauge

Gary Lewis

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Administrator

I really shouldn't be jumping in here as Bill has been doing a superb job answering your questions. But he may be busy on this Saturday and I'll try to answer. But I don't remember what your setup is and you don't have a signature to tell me if you have EFI, a 3G alternator, or what. So I may be way off base.

That relay has two small terminals. One is to pull the relay in, and the other is connected to the large output lug and is used to provide full battery voltage to the ignition on some trucks.

And yes, all but the red/light blue one goes to the battery terminal of the relay, and that one goes to the small terminal to pull the relay in.

And you want to use the schematic below for these wires:

Yellow-green = battery plus That is from the ammeter and goes to the Y/LG in C610
Red-blue = to starter solenoid (ignition switch start signal) Yes
White-blue and white-rose = ignition run W/LB goes to R in C321 going to the ignition but I don't see a W/Rose.
Black-green = GND
Green-white and red-yellow = I don't know. Don't see green/white but could red/yellow be red/orange?
Red-white = water gauge Yes
White-red = oil pressure gauge Yes

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

ReneH

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Hi Gary,

No problem. I have had a signature...don't know why is isn't there anymore...

My setup is: EFI and 3G alternator.

About the starter relay:
The original pin only fits to the silver small pin. The copper one is too small.
But as I've said, the silver one is connected to the output to the starter motor. As I haven't changed there anything and the car has started before with this setup, it may be normal.

And yes, all but the red/light blue one goes to the battery terminal of the relay
I meant the image below the text. There is no red/light blue cable at this connector.

I see...my images and questions were a bit confusing...I will do some new in a few minutes...

ReneH

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

This post was updated on .

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

OK, so the few minutes are over now... I will now form my questions into a more understandable way.

But first my problem:
I have a connection between battery plus and igniotion run and also ignition start...as far as i know. My problem is, that I'm not 100% sure what cables are coming/going directly from/to the Ignition switch.

My therory: If I connect a multimeter with a continuity tester between the battery connector and any ignition run cable, there will be no connection until I turn the ignition to run. Same test with ignition start cable...only connection if I turn and hold the key.

Passenger Side:
The next images shows the cable I'm not 100% sure, if I have connected them right:

Upon: I have connected the red and the yellow/green together to one fuse.

Upon: This green/red cable I haven't connected.

Upon: This small copper post wasn't connected before in my harness.

Driver's side

Upon: This is what I have seen as white/rose

Upon: This cable is and was not in use. Originally it goes inside a connector, but not out annymore.

So, I hope you can tell me where these cables are going to...Thanks!

85lebaront2

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Administrator

In reply to this post by ReneH

Sorry Rene' Saturday is Laundry day, and I don't always get on-line early. If you are using the 3G alternator, the recommendation is to either have the ammeter redone as a voltmeter or just eliminate it and use a separate voltmeter. The ammeter on these trucks was based on using a 65 amp alternator and the shunt is a calibrated low resistance to give a charge indication. A charge indicator light will do that.

First, let me add a disclaimer, I do not know what the engineers at Ford were smoking when the wiring on these trucks was being designed, but my 1977 F150 had a plug-in harness for the engine and also another for the front end wiring. The Bullnose trucks have a continuous harness that literally runs from the right headlight/battery area, through the firewall, across the dash, then back out through the firewall and ending at the left headlight. As a result something like the starter signal comes out on the left side, goes down under the floor to the transmission neutral safety switch, back up, in through the firewall, dash and out the other side to the starter relay, and changes color on the way. It should end up as a Red with blue stripe going to the starter relay.

The large 4 wire plug appears to be the alternator harness and all will have battery voltage except the green/red as it is the "tickler" or charge light wire used to (a) start the alternator charging and (b) provide an indication if it isn't.

Each section of the EVTM has a location portion at the end of it with the connector and component locations called out. I can send you the complete 1986 EVTM in pdf form if it will help you as it is mine and I scanned it for Gary so it could be on the site.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

ReneH

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Hi Bill,

Thanks again and no worries about the...I will not say late...delayed answer. Everybody has a life in th real world...and to me, you also have a big time delay...so no problem at all...

I'm very thankful for the help of you and also Gary. I'm still learning...maybe it will be more easy to eliminate all original wires and replace them at one...but that's not possible in current as a lack of time...

It will be nice e of you to send me the document as written. So I can maybe do better measurements, knowing where the cable ends.

Maybe I only have some problems with understanding ohms laws sometimes...I'm good in understanding the advance laws by now 100% understanding the basics...

ReneH

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

In reply to this post by ReneH

I have 9 ohms between battery plus and the white/blue cable on the driver's side.

Turning the ignition switch on results 0.0 ohms...

Is this correct or do I have a lack of power somewhere? Maybe this is the origin of my problems...

85lebaront2

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Administrator

In reply to this post by ReneH

Rene', it was large enough it had to be sent as a Google drive link. You should be able to download it from there.

Bill

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

ReneH

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Hi Bill.

I have seen it and will check it later on my computer. Thanks!

ReneH

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

In reply to this post by ReneH

Ok...that's interesting...I have checked the coil of the EEC-relay...6 mega ohms...the fuel pump relay only has 56 ohms, what's in my opinion more correct...

Maybe this was the reason for the error I had...the relay may not have switched the power correctly...so the EEC won't get enough power...

ReneH

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

I also still need the information if there is a straight oil dipstick available...my air filters are directly in the way...

ReneH

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Hi together,

Would this one fit?
eBay

Thanks!

85lebaront2

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Administrator

Rene' that looks like one for a front sump oil pan (car or truck through 1979) I also need to figure out your wiring question.

There is a US company named Lokar that makes custom dipstick assemblies for many engines. Not having a 302 truck engine to look at I don't remember where it goes, into the pan or side of the block. One possibility would be a van dipstick, they are usually quite long and come forward so they can be reached easily.

On your relays, if you are trying to use the original ones, they may just be bad. I would just stick with a Bosch cube relay and get a matching socket.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

ReneH

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Hi Bill,

thanks for the answers. Today I have made a test with battery voltage...everything seems to be OK with my wiring. I will see more the coming days.

The only thing I haven't found in the document you've send to me is the red cable Coming from the battery...I also have a yellow/light green cable instead of a only yellow cable coming from the battery side.

But to be sure, I will measure with battery voltage to find out the correct cable.

About the dipstick: I will send a photo of my setup the the pipes of the new cold air intake...so if all sticks fitting the 302 are giving a correct reading, I only need a short straight one of an mustang or something else. I will find a way to fix it.

About the relays: do you think it's possible that a bad EEC relay can cause an error like mine that all injectors are firing together two times a turn?

85lebaront2

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Administrator

Probably not, unless it is chattering when the injectors trigger.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

ReneH

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Hmm...ok...we'll see...

Here is my "construction"...not fixed and not in the correct height, yet...

3" pipes...so to say the same like the exhaust muffler and tailpipe...

85lebaront2

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Administrator

Nice hot air inlet system.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

ReneH

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Hot air?

The filter downwards is placed on the original inlet position and has a conical inlet...so I hope this one will provide cold air while driving...

I have tested the wiring with battery voltage applied...nothing short, no lightning coming out of the engine bay...

So today or tomorrow, I will run the KOEO test and if everything is OK, I will connect my LEDs to the injector output of the ECU, by hoping they will flash alternating during one distributor turn...

85lebaront2

Re: Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions

Administrator

Here is the radiator front side on my 1986 F350. Red lines are where I have the air dams from a 1993-96/7 truck (the HD models did not go into the new body until 1998) installed to keep the hot air from the radiator getting into the air inlet in traffic.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

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