Larry the Lariat - My 86 F150 4x4

I'm tagging Cory.
He's done this a bunch of times to a 150.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I'm tagging Cory.
He's done this a bunch of times to a 150.

Did somebody call me??...lol. Thanks Jim!

Are you referring to the later brake master cylinder swap? I have done that a couple times, yes sir.

In both cases, I ran all new brake lines on the trucks, and I removed that factory prop-valve (or whatever it is called) and chucked it. I'm sure they were a good idea 45 years ago, but I don't know how effective they are 40+ years later when they're all rusted out and gunked up...jmtcw;).

The later master cylinder DO require that residual pressure valve for the rear port, if for no other reason that to connect the brake line...the valve has the correct size and flare for a brake line fitting. I'm not sure how you'd connect a brake like without it.

As for gutting it...I can't answer...I never did that personally. I don't even know if you can.

Some new master cylinders come with that residual pressure valve, and some do not. I went to the junkyard and grabbed one (a couple actually, to have a spare).

PS: Lastly...if you DO chuck the factory prop valve(s) like I did, you can take the original wire and connect it to the float in the later master cylinder. That way your BRAKE light will illuminate if your brake fluid gets low, which is kinda neat...and more "modern"...at least 1990's modern.

I forget which terminals on the float switch are which...there are three. Common, and NO, and NC. You'll have to run a ground wire to the common, and then connect the original prop valve wire to the normally open terminal (I think).

Hope that helps?..

PS: I also ran into same issue Gary mentions with the booster push rod...better for there to be a tiny gap than any pressure on the MC at all. I have always checked and adjusted them though.

"The Dr is in...". 😄

(Appreciate your insight, Cory!)

Thanks for checking in Cory!

I ordered the RAYBESTOS MC39634 from Rock Auto:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=309797&cc=1122398&pt=1836&jsn=2507

Pictures do not show it coming with a residual pressure valve, but evidently those who ordered it in the past said theirs came with one. I’ve got a used valve on its way from a friend just in case.

As of right now, I have no plans to remove the factory proportioning valve or replace any of the lines, but I’ll certainly be checking over all that. I have 25’ of NiCopp and a variety of on hand should I need to replace some lines. I’m assuming that, if you do remove the proportioning valve, you’d just use a coupler for the rear lines, and a splitter for the front lines.

I do like the idea of making the fluid level indicator work. That would be a nice bonus!  

On the push rod length, it’s sounding like I need to measure the depth of the slot on the master cylinder that receives the rod and then adjust the rod to match that measurement.

chirkware wrote

Thanks for checking in Cory!

I do like the idea of making the fluid level indicator work. That would be a nice bonus!  

You can buy the plug pigtail for the MC from Rockauto also. You can grab one at the junkyard if you have one close by with 90's pickups.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=50337&cc=1121971&pt=12098&jsn=519

I'm sure you're aware, but the ports are reversed front to rear on the later master cylinders. I ran all new lines at the time so it was a non-issue for me, but I think it's OK when re-using existing factory lines also...there's enough flex in them you can reverse them (others have done this).

Yes, I've done it.

You just coil one service loop tighter and relax the other....

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Yes, I've done it.

You just coil one service loop tighter and relax the other....

Yep, that's what I did as well, but on Big Blue with the hydroboost and F450 master there was a bit more stretching than relaxing as everything is longer.  In fact, the large master touches the A/C line if you aren't careful and puts an odd noise from the compressor into the cab.

Good news! I can confirm that the Raybestos MC39634 does indeed come with the residual pressure valve!



In other news, no turning back now!

Excellent!  Glad to have that confirmed.  And have you thought about getting a spare cap for it and putting a hose barb in it so you can pressurize the system for bleeding?  Sure makes it an easy job.

On the rear axle seal, you've found the instructions on how to R&R them?

Funny...I just came to my laptop to try to look at the docs you referenced (I had not looked at them, but had watched a few youtube videos) while working on Larry. To get to this website, I started entering larrysgaragemahal ... Larry, Gary, what's the difference?!? LOL Oddly, my browser didn't find the site!

Reviewing the docs now before I start destroying things! :)

Regarding bleeding the brakes...I hadn't really looked at that up to this point, but I think I get what you are saying now. Same concept as this video, but a bit more diy?

Looks SO much easier!

That's funny!  My poor grandmother had grandsons named Jerry, Terry, and Gary so had problems on what to say at times.  But computers are somewhat critical about errors, so I'm not surprised that your browser didn't find the site.

And yes, the brake bleeding is as described in that video - power bleeding.  But all you need is a spare cap, a hose barb, and a garden sprayer.  Just pump up a bit of pressure and it'll push the fluid through the lines to each wheel.

So my new bearing is different from the old one. Just want to be sure this is right before I destroy the old one. Just shot this video to show the differences.

We know this...... 🙄

On a side note, Cory, what the heck have you got there! 🧐
Midlife crisis???  😂

Link is broken.

Do you have tapered roller instead of barrel?

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Link is broken.

Do you have tapered roller instead of barrel?

Link should be fixed now. I forgot to check that HTML thing for the embedded link.

Current bearing is tapered. I guess the new one is something different. The box it came in calls it a Tapered Roller Bearing, but it isn’t.

Yeah.
The NASCAR style bearing does not allow setting play like a tapered bearing does.

There was a thread about finding the style you seem to have ordered, recently.

Maybe search 9" hub bearing....?
It wasn't long ago IIRC.

Ok, this is interesting:

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/wheel-bearing-hub-assembly-rear/p/duralast-bearing-set20az/262369_0_0?searchText=Axle+bearing

So far, Autozone is the ONLY vendor I’ve found that allows me to actually specify 4wd for my truck. And they show the same looking sealed type bearing. In fact, their brand part has a part number starting with Timken’s “SET20” post number. Only thing different is it seems Autozone’s part doesn’t include the seal. And it’s half the price. They show it compatible with F150’s from 75-86, both 2wd and 4wd.

So is it just an “upgrade” over what I have? Or maybe someone stuck an older axle in this truck?

I’ve spent the last four hours researching. I’ve not found ANY parts listings that acknowledge that the old bearing I have even exists.

If this guy is right, the old style bearing I need to replace is discontinued, and the one I have now is all that’s available. Listen to what he says starting at about 3:33, and keep in mind he posted this 11 years ago.

CONTENTS DELETED

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Someone-explain-Ford-9-bearings-to-me-tp144198.html