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Dad's Truck Build

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ArdWrknTrk

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

Gary Lewis wrote

How would they look PC'd black with the recesses red?

Judging from your first mockup, quite good.

You are speaking of PC'ing just the lock, Or the whole hub?
Because I think I like the stainless surrounding it.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

Good question. I meant that I'd leave the outer ring bright stainless, and make the brass black except the recesses would be red, as shown in the mockup. That sorta approximates the rings and center bar of the rear medallion. And it would be easier to do than making the rotating piece brass/black/red.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

I like it!

Dad's truck is really coming together.

Everything you've done so far looks great, Gary!

I'd be afraid to drive it.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

And, in the midst of the this discussion regarding the manual locks, here are the rotors. Think I'll blast them, which I should have done before having them turned, and then paint them. Paint not powder as I don't want to have to mask them with the high-temp tape that would be needed for the oven.

On the other hand, I have some of Eastwood's High Temp black powder, and could use that, which would probably stand up to the environment better. And I could mask with aluminum foil to minimize the use of tape.

Hmmmm....

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Gary Lewis

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk

Thanks, Jim! It feels good to finally have things coming along. To be honest, the front suspension and driveline haven't been something I was looking forward to doing. So many little details. But, now that the suspension itself is done and the driveline is starting to take shape it is feeling better.

My goal is to get it sitting on all four tires and then put the engine and transmission in. At that point it can be rolled around, or up on the trailer, and I think I'll turn to Big Blue's upgrades. After all, Dad's truck isn't going to be a driver and Big Blue is. So, I need to spend some time on BB to get him where I want him to be for driving. And then I'll come back to Dad's truck.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Ford F834

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Gary Lewis wrote

All - How would they look PC'd black with the recesses red?

Gary, I think the look Would be nice, but wouldn’t it be more difficult to have two different PC colors meeting at the edge of the recess? If the raised portion of the brass were to remain brass, you could sand through any irregularities and leave a crisp edge with the recessed color. Maybe I am not understanding the process of applying the color, but it seems to me like that would be really difficult. One approach if you wanted to black out the letters would be a metal oxidizer that as one uses in jewelry making. You paint it into a textured surface (turns it flat black) then you polish the high points. Since the hub is brass, the jewelry oxidizer should work, and remain durable. I’ve done this with silver and it does not wear off even on rings etc., just thought I’d mention it since it is outside the box if you are thinking in terms of automotive finishes.

https://www.riogrande.com/product/MidasBlackMaxOxidizerSolution4oz/331053?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4-j3r9jI4AIVAx6tBh0ZOQJZEAQYCSABEgK19PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD

STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering

BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2

Gary Lewis

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

Jonathan - You raise good questions. Here are two approaches that might work and then Plan B:

Powder: Coat the whole of the brass part with black, and then mask the raised portion by taping it and then using a scalpel to remove the tape at the edges of the recesses and apply the red powder in the recesses. If the tape can be cut cleanly then there should be a crisp edge to the red/black break.

Paint: If the above doesn't work, then resort to red paint and a brush

Black Medallions: Use black medallions in the rear and use either the Warns, which are already black, or the MM's and have black and brass. Perhaps clear coat the brass.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Ford F834

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

That sounds like a good set of plans Gary. Like I said, the whole powder application process is foreign to me, so you will have a much better idea of what will and won’t work. If it is similar to applying paint then plan 1 seems like the way to go. And I am guessing that the results will be very nice. 🙂

Steve83

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Banned User

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

All the originals (manual & auto) were made by Warn, but I don't like the look or feel of their retail dials. I'd do red behind black on the MMs. The cheaper MMs came with black plastic dials (which I prefer because I don't like the brass showing, either).

Gary Lewis

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

Sounds like the plan is coming together.

But, I realized today that the suspension isn't done. I don't yet have the sway bar on. In fact, it hasn't been powder coated, nor has some of its mounting hardware.

So, tomorrow I'll be rounding up all the parts and getting ready to blast and PC then next batch. And I'll include the MM dial.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Gary Lewis

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

I made some progress today. First, I got the inner needle bearings out of the spindles. I did it by reversing the arms on my small puller and pulling against a screwdriver, as shown below. Then, when the bearing hit the screwdriver I put the edge of the spindle on the edge of the work table and came down through the spindle with a brass drift against the screw of the puller. A few taps with a hammer knocked the bearings out the rest of the way. So now I need to order some new ones.

Then I protected the bearing and seal positions and blasted one spindle. Here's a comparison:

And here's a closeup of the lockouts:

And here's the batch I'll PC tomorrow, Lord willing:

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Steve83

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Banned User

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

I missed this before, but it appears to be relevant again...

Gary Lewis wrote

...High Temp black powder, and could use that, which would probably stand up to the environment better.

If your PC oven can melt the powder, then the normal operating temperatures of the rotors will certainly melt or burn it off. I used BBQ paint on mine because it's specifically designed for nearly-red-hot steel.

BTW
The "correct" tool to use on your internal bearing puller was a slide hammer.

85lebaront2

Re: Dad's Truck Build

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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

I agree with Steve83 on the rotors, also you can paint them after turning to prevent rusting, the first time you apply the brakes it will rub off where the pads ride, it will take a couple of times to get them clean and shiny.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

Steve83

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Banned User

85lebaront2 wrote

...you can paint them after turning to prevent rusting, the first time you apply the brakes it will rub off where the pads ride...

I wouldn't ever intentionally contaminate the pads with anything not designed specifically to treat brake pads (and Ford doesn't even allow/recommend THOSE products). The best thing for any brake friction material is flat, clean steel/Iron - even if it's a little rusty.

If you apply anything to slow the rust, I'd remove it all before driving or braking.

Gary Lewis

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

In reply to this post by 85lebaront2

Steve - That's a good idea on BBQ paint. Don't think I have any, but I'm going out tomorrow so will pick some up.

And you are right on the puller - I just don't happen to have a side hammer. But, I did consider cobbling one together by threading a piece of rod and boring a weight to make the slide. However, the other trick worked a treat so thought I'd share it.

Bill - Good idea. I can paint the whole rotor and not have to mask it off. That'll save a whole lot of time.

Thanks, guys!

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Gary Lewis

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

Well, I'll start today's installment while the last pieces are baking in the PC oven.

First, the eye doctor's report: Perfect! The cornea has almost completely filled in, and he thinks it will have be tonight. That's how fast those cells grow. So, he took the clear contact lens off, which made things feel better. There's still some discomfort, but not pain. And when I need it, Tylenol takes the edge off that.

And, on the way back from the Dr's office I got a can of Rust-Oleum High Heat, which is supposedly good to 1200 F - far better than powder, even Eastwood's discontinued High Heat Black. (Thanks again, Steve.) And I used most of the can on the rotors, ensuring that they have 3 good coats and that it wafted through the vents. (Yes, I know that will cut down on the heat exchange some.)

Then I masked the hubs and spindles and applied the Sherwin Williams semi-gloss powder to the hubs, spindles, lugs, lock-outs, and side windshield trim and popped them in the oven. And, while the parts were baking I pulled out the ID tag for the front diff and started looking up the seals and bearings for the driveshafts/hubs. (Not the wheel bearings but the needle bearings for the driveshafts.) Got all the part #'s and started looking for them online. Then I had a thought - didn't Vernon have some of that stuff for Big Blue? Sure enough, I have more than a full set of bearings and seals for a D44. Big Blue - the gift that keeps on giving! Thanks again, Vernon!

Then, when the parts were cool I taped off the lock-outs and applied the red powder, using electrostatic attraction, and popped them back in the oven. They are now done and cooling. Can't wait to see how they turned out.

Hmmm.... I peeked and the red isn't thick enough. It shows the black through a bit. So, since the lock-outs were still somewhat hot I applied another generous layer of powder. They are now back in the oven, but I'm not sure there will be enough time to get a pic of them this evening as the oven is still at 300 headed to 400. And, I have a hard-stop at 5:00.

So, here's a pic of the rest of the stuff PC'd:

And, for comparison, here's the "before" pic:

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Gary Lewis

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

Ok, here's a pic of one of the lock-outs. I pulled the tape while the powder was still hot, so maybe that explains the tape marks. I'll leave the other one to cool and see what it looks like.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

scbill

Re: Dad's Truck Build

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Posted this on autorestomod, got a few likes.
FWIW...when you have a long way to pull, an impact wrench on low pressure works pretty good.

Bill

https://www.facebook.com/groups/autorestomod/?multi_permalinks=1102079899998766¬if_id=1551323080234749¬if_t=feedback_reaction_generic

1983 F100 XL 300, 6 cyl, aod, long bed
1961 E100 pickup, 289,C4

Gary Lewis

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

Bill - Thanks, but you didn't tell them to use a drift to get it out the last little bit when the bearing hits the screwdriver. As for the impact, I'll give that a try.

Now, for a few questions for y'all. The factory shop manual (Driveline/Axles and Differentials and tabs Front Axles then Instructions) says "Install a new seal with the seal lip directed away from the spindle."

The pic on the left shows the bearing installed and the seal laying out, and then the pic on the right has the seal installed. Is that "away from the spindle"? In other words, is that correct?

Next up, u-joints. I installed one of the u-joints and reached for the snap ring, only to find they are the outside style, as shown on the right, below. As you can see below, I installed one of the inside style, shown on the left, just to get it in. But, these u-joints obviously have the grooves for the inside style. What am I missing?

Also, how many demerits do I get for not painting nor powder coating the u-joints and caps? This is getting crazy, and to be able to paint them they'd have to be degreased, which is quite a task. But powder coating would be a lot more work. Where do I draw the line?

Next, the u-joint for the center joint, as shown below. I think I can do it with a large c-clamp, but is there a better way?

Last, I actually did get something done today. The front diff is fully torqued in, including the ID tag.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Ford F834

Re: Dad's Truck Build

Administrator

Gary, are the U joints even made out of an alloy that rusts? I’ve seen the spring keepers rust but never the caps. If it were me, at the very most I would shoot some paint on the X and call it good. I think you will drive yourself crazy trying to install painted or coated caps.

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