1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, that's a shame.  Hopefully the next one will be good.

Good idea to hang in there and get a good one.  No need to rush as you may regret it later.

Yeah, I know it would bug me even if it can't be always seen.

FuzzFace2 wrote

WOW a 19 gallon tank dented to 16 gallons
Yes best to hold out for a good one.
I am guessing you have other things you can do to the truck while waiting for the tank?
As I posted a small can on the fender to run the motor works great, did it for years that way till the truck was ready for a test drive.
Dave ----

I spent my Sunday cutting the grass and removing the old tank.  I wanted to get the old tank out so I could see what else I need to order that is bad in the area.

Sunday I removed the old tank.  Turned out it was much more full then I realized. The reason I couldn't pump any fuel out is because the sending unit was clogged.  The sock was missing and in the tube was full of rust colored crud. The whole tank sounded like sand moving around when I tilted it up. When I drained the tank it clogged my fuel filter in my new pump. I had to order another $11 pump filter because of that old nasty tank. Funny thing is the tank bolts for the bands where metric.  For some reason I thought working on an old Ford everything would be standard.  What the 80's is going on here?  The nut was 13mm and the bolt was 10mm.  This happened to me in the engine bay too.  The ground connection was 10mm. Anyway the old tank is out and I ordered and new filler neck hose, purge valve and grommet, stainless steel pre-bent hard line from the tank to the engine bay and a line clamp set. The metal filler neck looks like crap so I am going to clean it up and get a new fuel cap with a fresh seal. I still need to find something like thin rubber sheets to mount on the top of the tank to prevent rubbing. The old tank had some kind of tar paper like material on both sides. After all that I topped the day off with a cold one next to the truck.

LoL!  Gaelic Ale is why we have metric parts on 80s Ford's.  Or vice versa.  I'm finding a lot of metric stuff too.  Lugs seem to be metric on wheels.  

Lugs are fractional on imperial pattern up into the 90's.
Driveline is all fractional.

But you will find you need an 18mm on the chassis and 15 fits the gas tank straps.
7mm nutdriver is very handy for the dashboard.

Does anyone know where the stock fuel filter went when the truck was new?  I don't like the configuration of the hard line to soft line to filter to soft line to carb under the air cleaner right at the front of the engine.  It just looks like a mess with all those clamps. Can I mount the filter before the hard line under the truck? Or do I have to have a filter after the pump?  I plan on replacing the pump so 99% of the fuel system will be brand new and clean basically. The only pre bent line I couldn't find is the hard line in the engine bay.  I guess I need to learn how to bend stainless steel pipe.

All of these trucks should have a filter at the fuel inlet of the carburetor.
In your case C4AZ-9F525-A

You can find more about your carb here:
http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/carter-yfa-1bbl.html

ArdWrknTrk wrote

All of these trucks should have a filter at the fuel inlet of the carburetor.
In your case C4AZ-9F525-A

You can find more about your carb here:
http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/carter-yfa-1bbl.html

Is this the one I need?  I didn't see a picture of it in the link about the carb.  Does is screw right in the inlet?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=56145&cc=1128440&jsn=1

I e-mailed Mike's Carb parts and he said the threads can be different on YFA carbs and I need to remove my adapter and check.  I have a standard and metric set of thread checkers and none of them matched.  The closest match was to a M10 but it would not go on all the way.  I checked the filter from my electric fuel pump I just got and it matched!  So after more digging I think it is NPT 1/8 27. My thread pitch checker I thought it was 28 but it must be 27.  Here is a link to the Edelbrock that Autozone stocks local and the Mr. Gasket version I ordered from Wal-Mart to replace the one on my pump that got clogged from trying to drain my old tank.

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-systems/performance-fuel-filter/edelbrock-5-16in-fuel-filter/701160_0_0

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mr-Gasket-1242G-Fuel-Filter/172922080

I'm going to suggest you use Loctite PST (anerobic pipe thread sealant)

Pipe threads don't belong on a fuel system component in aluminum... pot metal, whatever.

Just yesterday another member found teflon tape in his float valve.

PST is recommended for refineries and chemical plants.
I don't see anything that makes me feel it isn't the best for this job.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I'm going to suggest you use Loctite PST (anerobic pipe thread sealant)

Pipe threads don't belong on a fuel system component in aluminum... pot metal, whatever.

Just yesterday another member found teflon tape in his float valve.

PST is recommended for refineries and chemical plants.
I don't see anything that makes me feel it isn't the best for this job.

Is this the one you mean? So expensive.

https://amzn.to/3dFy7u0

That's the size I buy.
 
But it comes in much smaller tubes and I've even seen it in those little pouches by the register at the mechanical supply house.

Look at the price of a similar size bottle of red or blue Loctite.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-234451-Sealant-degrees-Temperature/dp/B005P3KAUW/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4C7781VZCTT0Z7Z7EHQH

ArdWrknTrk wrote

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-234451-Sealant-degrees-Temperature/dp/B005P3KAUW/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4C7781VZCTT0Z7Z7EHQH

Thanks for the link.  I think I found something in my tool box that may work.  The amazon reviews seem positive.

Changing the battery tray and side bracket was a huge pain in the butt. I was cursing LMC for hours whilst fighting the parts to fit and forming the metal.  For $140 I expected a little better fit.  Nothing lined up even close! And the worse part is the side bracket mount is missing the part that holds the L bracket for the air intake.  And the screw hole for the canister was the wrong size so I had to look for a screw that could fit. Which of course didn't line up either and I had to extend the hole on the canister.  I purchased some fender washers at Northern Tool last weekend for just $.99 which came in handy for the battery mounts because the front bracket is almost rusted out.  I have not found a replacement yet.  The worse part is I broke the air intake bracket.  It was 10pm and I was tired and accidently over tightened the plastic bracket and cracked it.
Hopefully I can find a replacement. Also LMC have not shipped my Monday order yet so it does not look like the fuel tank can go back in this weekend.

You can try it!

I don't give any credence to Amazon reviews.
Too many times they aggregate comments about completely different products.

PST is an anerobic, not a pipe dope...

Unfortunately, we all learn from others in a bad way sometimes.   You have the bad luck on this one.  Ugh, sorry.   BUT, Gary had a post other day where he epoxied some plastics back together.  You may be able to epoxy the air cleaner bracket back together?  Maybe epoxy a metal reinforcement to the back side where it won't be seen, but helps hold it all together when complete.  I'd like to get one of those air cleaner pieces and get all the ducting back on mine someday.  I have the snorkel air cleaner, but nothing attached to it for cold or warm air.

I have no idea what's under my battery yet.  Has a bungee cord wrapped a couple times holding it in securely, so I'm afraid to look.  I might make it less stable if I mess with it.  
You're getting a lot done though.  Keep plugging away.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

You can try it!

I don't give any credence to Amazon reviews.
Too many times they aggregate comments about completely different products.

PST is an anerobic, not a pipe dope...

At least if it leaks it is easy to get to and fix. I will try it and see once I can get the fuel system back together.  Waiting on a lot of parts.  The tank may come today if Autozone can really get it this time. It was suppose to arrive Tuesday but they claim the order got canceled.  The filler neck and other parts from LMC still have not shipped.

Jonathan - We have vendor reviews at Bullnose Forum/Marketplace/Vendor Reviews & Ratings.  LMC is in there, so you might want to post and give them a rating.

rcarlisle wrote

Unfortunately, we all learn from others in a bad way sometimes.   You have the bad luck on this one.  Ugh, sorry.   BUT, Gary had a post other day where he epoxied some plastics back together.  You may be able to epoxy the air cleaner bracket back together?  Maybe epoxy a metal reinforcement to the back side where it won't be seen, but helps hold it all together when complete.  I'd like to get one of those air cleaner pieces and get all the ducting back on mine someday.  I have the snorkel air cleaner, but nothing attached to it for cold or warm air.

I have no idea what's under my battery yet.  Has a bungee cord wrapped a couple times holding it in securely, so I'm afraid to look.  I might make it less stable if I mess with it.  
You're getting a lot done though.  Keep plugging away.

Thanks for the feedback Randy.  I may try epoxy.  Right now the air intake is holding on by a thread but after it starts to run and vibrate I don't think it will last long. I did order a flexible hose from LMC that should fit but didn't install it yet since I need to take the air filter off anyway.  The battery is so heavy I didn't want to take a chance of it flying around.  If you order the parts like I did be ready to fight for hours.  An extra set of hands would of helped for sure. Someone to form the metal while you try to get a screw in.  I put in one screw at a time loose and formed the metal until the next went in loose and kept doing that until they were all in loose.  Then tightened down a little at a time on each one until they were all tight.   It is standard operating procedure for these things but I thought I would mention it to help others that may not know. I will do everything possible to avoid having to order replacement panels or hood.  If the stinking battery tray was a fight I can't imagining getting a hood to match up or quarter panel.