1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

FuzzFace2 wrote

OUCH!
As long as the front bumper is left in place it acts as a cross member you can run with out the one you bent up.

Now if you have access to a press or maybe the weight of the truck? you can bend it back into shape.
If using the truck with the member off place wood blocks on the ends on the bottom and use a bottle jack placed where you bent it up and start jacking and see what happens.

In a press you would do the same thing just that you would be standing when jacking and I would think if the truck is not heavy enough it will start to lift before the bend is out, not so with a press.

On the fuel system:
As for tank size that looks to be a side tank or mid ship tank and a easy way to know the size it how long the bed is.
Short bed trucks / flare side have a 16 gallon tank.
Long bed trucks have a 19 gallon tank.
And yes the sending units are different for the 2 different tank sizes so check before odering sender you have the right one. I think some places list the same part number for the senders and this is wrong.

I am with Gary on get a new tank & sender as you will never get any rust that may be in it out.
Besides that filter you see between the pump & carb you may also have a filter that screws into the carb.

I had to open my carb up and found rust in the bowl. This was a little over a year after getting the truck on the road.
Tanks looked good before I installed them back in the truck with new senders as part of the 4 year rebuild so was a little shocked on the rust.

Anyway my truck had 2 filters, one like you pictured and a screw in one. When the carb was apart I backed flushed both and the first (like yours) was pretty bad with crud.
I had to take the carb apart a 2nd time and the rust was not too bad but I replaced the first metal filter (like yours) with a plastic see through  and ran 2 rear tanks through it and I dont see any rust.
I just started to run on the front tank and will run 2 tanks to see what one if either gives me rust and go from there on a fix.

If you want to run the motor and move the truck under its own power while you get the fuel system fixed get some 5/ 16 hose, you need some to replace it on the system anyway, to go from the pump inlet to a small gas can you can place on the inner fender and run the motor from it.
I did this for years as I did not know how long it would be before my truck was on the road and did not want gas in the tank(s) going bad from sitting.
You can see the gas can on the inner fender.

 Dave ----

Gary Lewis wrote

Sorry, I'm not sure as it seems to have changed over the years.  I used 3/16" line on Big Blue from the tee where the two metal lines come together on the frame under the bed on the right side.  However the line on the vent/rollover valve looks to be bigger.

Gary Lewis wrote

By the way, are you responding via email?  It looks like you are as it is always copying in the previous post.  There are ways around that, but the best is to click the link below the text that says "If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:" as that will log you onto the forum and you can post there w/o the extra stuff.

It is your call, but it sure adds a lot of unnecessary stuff to the thread.  Just log on and see what I mean.

FuzzFace2 wrote

I also want to say 3/16 on the vent hose / roll over valve but it has been a few years since I did my fuel lines & vent.
I think I used 3/16 gas hose at the valves, I have dual tanks, and might have used vacuum hose at the "Y" where they meet up under the bed / cab corner.

when you replace the tank it will be a lot easier if you can remove or lift the bed up to sneak the filler hose / vent assy. out & back in.
On the filler you only see the outer hose there is a plastic inner hose that fits into holders at the tank & up top at the filler opening. If this plastic hose is not in place it will take for ever to fill the tank at the pump.
Here you can see the plastic hose in the holder at the filler opening. The tank has the same holder.

Your plastic hose will be all 1 piece this is what I had to do to add a rear tank to my flare side as they never came with a rear or dual tanks.
2 filler doors on my flare side, 16 gallon front / 19 gallon rear using all factory parts to look the part inside & out.

Dave ----

Gary Lewis wrote

Bummer!  At least they have another one and will deliver it, and the filter.

And yes, that foam should work nicely.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Dog ears are factory, but that tank looks like it was dropped off a truck!

Camper tape... The gasket you would put on your bed rails before fitting a topper should work fine.  

FuzzFace2 wrote

Some tanks from the factory I have seen the corners bent.
It could be so they did not hurt who ever was installing it or easier to install?

On the foam I did not want to use anything that could hold water like a sponge.
Having it between the tank & strap it may never dry out and rust the tank where it is.
The factory stuff was more like thick tar paper. The tar would not hold water.

I found a roll of fake outside grass rug cheap, plastic so will not hold water, and is what I used.
Think others have used a bike inner tube cut and glued to the straps.
Dave ----

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I think you are fine with whatever black roll you have.

It's a shame the company doesn't care more about a product that could kill people.  🙄

I got my tanks through eBay sellers and they were perfect. (I have the later large bung tanks)

Good luck! Third time's a charm.