1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Sounds like the tach is bad.

Checking the signal would require an oscilloscope.  But if the test light is flickering it is probably good.  However, if you ground that wire the engine will not run as the coil is always grounded.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

nmchuck
I checked the signal wire, the two grounds (mine is a v8), and the positive feed at the connector.  Once I verified these, I followed the printed circuit board and verified the same circuits were good at the actual connections to the brass posts.

After looking at the way the tach was put together, it looked as if the ground was not making a good connection internal in the tach.

Since it worked after I put extra solder between the two halves on the ground post and tightened up the two halves with the little push-on hats, I stopped there.  I have seen where people have tested under the hood by re-creating the connections (feed wire, positive and ground).  

Hopefully I didn't send you down too much of a rabbit trail, mine worked out, was hoping yours could too.
Chuck
1981 flareside 4x4, C6, 351M
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Atlas75
I haven't given up hope on the tach yet.  I plan to reflow all of the solder connections and see what happens.

I realized today that when I took my dash out, I broke the socket for the 4X4 indicator light.  In 1980 that was the one all the way to the right in the cluster and is not run off the printed circuit.  I have been searching but have not found one yet.  Has anyone found a source for that socket with pigtails?
Carl

1980 F-350 4X4; 400 C6; Dana 61 rear, Dana 50 TTB front
1984 F-250 4X4; 6.9L T19; Dana 70 rear, Dana 44 TTB front
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Atlas75
Still looking for a source for that 194 light socket mentioned above.  I would prefer a correct one but I have found a few “universal” sockets that might work.

In other news, I was perusing Facebook marketplace and saw a listing for a 1980 or 1981 truck that had been hit in the front.  The listing was for the rear axel.  As I was looking at the photos I noticed it was an F350 and it still had the fender emblems.  So I messaged the owner and asked if they might be for sale (my truck does not have any).  We made a deal and look what arrived in the mail!!



A little cleaning and these should look nice.  Now I just need to figure out mounting location (my fenders have no holes) and if there is a source for the small post clips that hold them on.  If anyone knows, please let me know.
Carl

1980 F-350 4X4; 400 C6; Dana 61 rear, Dana 50 TTB front
1984 F-250 4X4; 6.9L T19; Dana 70 rear, Dana 44 TTB front
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

BigBrother-84
Hi Carl,

About the 4x4 bulb, I think my 1984 has a separate wire too (not on the printed circuit).  I took some pictures during my restoration work, but unfortunately I don't see any showing this specific socket.

About the fender emblems, I taped the position of the original fender holes, in order to position my new emblems at the right place on my new fender (which had no holes).
My emblems are stick with double face tape, pins are for alignment only.
Here are the measurements for the "FORD" emblem.  Not sure about the "CUSTOM" one.


Jeff / 1984 F350 Crew Cab 4x4/5.8L w351 4V/ T18/ D50 4.10 front/ 8' bed.
Restored 2019-2022.
Nicknamed «Big Brother 1984», due to its soooo-looong shape & nod to George Orwell's 1984 famous novel.
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Atlas75
I'm guessing the holes were different in the '80/'81 trucks vs the '82 thru '86 trucks.  The posts on the back of my F350 emblem are not straight across from each other.  The one in the "F" is lower than the one in the "5".  Slightly lower but still lower and they are closer together than the roughly 4.75 inches between yours.





These photos are from the truck they were removed from.

The "custom" has 3 posts and they are not all straight either.  2 of them might be at the same location but the 3rd is definitely lower than the others.
Carl

1980 F-350 4X4; 400 C6; Dana 61 rear, Dana 50 TTB front
1984 F-250 4X4; 6.9L T19; Dana 70 rear, Dana 44 TTB front
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Atlas75
I am doing a little research into the rear suspension, and I am looking for verification of a part number.  The rear auxiliary spring brackets for my truck are E0TZ-5700-B according to the MPC.





Does this look correct?

When I search this part number online, I find a few listings.  The confusion is that they say they will not fit my truck.



Thoughts?

The insert for the bracket appears to be E5TZ-5A636-A.  Does that sound right?

Thanks in advance!
Carl

1980 F-350 4X4; 400 C6; Dana 61 rear, Dana 50 TTB front
1984 F-250 4X4; 6.9L T19; Dana 70 rear, Dana 44 TTB front
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Atlas75
I'm just getting back to this after some time away during the holidays.  Any thoughts on the brackets above?
Carl

1980 F-350 4X4; 400 C6; Dana 61 rear, Dana 50 TTB front
1984 F-250 4X4; 6.9L T19; Dana 70 rear, Dana 44 TTB front
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Atlas75
Now that we have some nice weather here in Iowa, it’s time to get back to the truck.  Drivers side suspension and axel refresh is next.  Disassembly went pretty quick.



I wanted to touch on something that I wasn’t sure could be done, but as it turns out, it is possible.  That something is the replacement of the drivers side axel shaft seal without removing the pumpkin.  I used a slide hammer with hook to remove the seal.  Came out relatively easily.



To install the new seal, I used a seal driver with a handle extension I cut from a 3/4 inch piece of metal conduit.  It fit over the handle perfectly.



I also decided to use a thin bead of Permatex around the seal flange.  Time will tell if that was a good idea.  Anyway, here is the new seal installed.



For me, it want pretty smoothly.  If anyone else tries to do it this way, hopefully the experience is the same.
Carl

1980 F-350 4X4; 400 C6; Dana 61 rear, Dana 50 TTB front
1984 F-250 4X4; 6.9L T19; Dana 70 rear, Dana 44 TTB front
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Gary Lewis
Administrator
That's slick!  Well done, and thanks for sharing.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

AmericanSavage
Hey Carl,

I am ALL OVER this.  Thanks for the pics.  I decided to buy new ball joints, and will remove the knuckle *or try to) and try this out myself.  

What did you use to remove the ball joints?

Thanks for this.  Very helpful!
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406)
Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb
Under Restore (1st time)
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Atlas75
To remove the ball joints, I rented a ball joint press from my local auto parts store.  They came out pretty easily.  I think the thing that helped the drivers side go easier than the passenger side did was my investment in a 1/2 drive cordless impact.  It has made many jobs a lot easier.  This one included.  I find myself using it a lot.
Carl

1980 F-350 4X4; 400 C6; Dana 61 rear, Dana 50 TTB front
1984 F-250 4X4; 6.9L T19; Dana 70 rear, Dana 44 TTB front
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

AmericanSavage
Hey Carl,

Thanks....I was a little confused by the SM which says the bottom must be removed first, and I cannot "see" how that is possible.  Near as I can tell the upper has to come out for the tool to go through to press it out.  I have to be missing something.  

Cheers!
1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406)
Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb
Under Restore (1st time)
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Atlas75
The lower one does need to come out first.  It presses out towards the upper ball joint.  Once that one is out, there will be room for the screw of the ball joint press to slide into the hole vacated by the lower ball joint.  Then you can press out the upper.
Carl

1980 F-350 4X4; 400 C6; Dana 61 rear, Dana 50 TTB front
1984 F-250 4X4; 6.9L T19; Dana 70 rear, Dana 44 TTB front
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Atlas75
Is type F transmission fluid correct for the power steering in our trucks?
Carl

1980 F-350 4X4; 400 C6; Dana 61 rear, Dana 50 TTB front
1984 F-250 4X4; 6.9L T19; Dana 70 rear, Dana 44 TTB front
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Yes. That is the recommended fill for the C2 pumps.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Atlas75
I have never been good at reading spark plugs so I am hoping someone here is a natural at it.  These are from the drivers side.  I ran out of light to change the passenger side so they will get changed tomorrow.





They do appear to be uniform…just not sure if it’s a good uniform or a bad uniform!
Carl

1980 F-350 4X4; 400 C6; Dana 61 rear, Dana 50 TTB front
1984 F-250 4X4; 6.9L T19; Dana 70 rear, Dana 44 TTB front
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Atlas75
It has been a bit since I last posted and I am back with a carburetor question for the group.  I recently pulled and rebuilt my Motorcraft 2150 with a Mike’s carb kit.  While going through the carb I found a couple missing gaskets and a lot of crud.  I am surprised the thing ran at all!  Anyway, I reinstalled the carb and the truck fired right up.  But….I have a flooding problem.  I have gas coming out of the fuel bowl vent.  Could it be as simple as the needle not seating or is there something bigger going on like too much fuel pressure?  It never flooded before the rebuild but it was running rich…presumably because the power valve gasket was missing so there was fuel on both sides of the power valve when I took it apart.  Thanks for any insight you can provide.
Carl

1980 F-350 4X4; 400 C6; Dana 61 rear, Dana 50 TTB front
1984 F-250 4X4; 6.9L T19; Dana 70 rear, Dana 44 TTB front
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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Gary Lewis
Administrator
It sounds like you may have the needle suspended incorrectly, causing it not to seat.  This illustration from the factory shop manual (Documentation/Fuel & Air Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Motorcraft 2150) shows how it is supposed to be installed, but it is pretty easy to get it wrong and cause a problem.  Luckily it is easy to take the top off the 2150 in situ and fix that.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: 1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

Atlas75
Carb is fixed!  The issue was the new retainer clip from the rebuild kit that locks around the seat.  It was somehow binding with the float and not allowing it to move up and down freely.  I went back to the original retainer clip and everything moves freely now.
Carl

1980 F-350 4X4; 400 C6; Dana 61 rear, Dana 50 TTB front
1984 F-250 4X4; 6.9L T19; Dana 70 rear, Dana 44 TTB front
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