The Camano Experience

Yeah... no
I'm not going there.

If it will stay above freezing this afternoon I'm going to take the problematic rubber cap off. Scratch up the sprue, and pack it with epoxy before putting that cap back on.

Slow going but have checked a few things off the todo list for Camano.

Ran a new harness to the back for the trailer turn + backup as well as the aux backup lights under the truck's bumper. The trailer circuits eliminate the factory jumper that just splits the truck's circuits. While it's less of an issue these days since most trailers use leds I still don't care for that approach. Plus I found out that the LH wire in the jumper was barely hanging on from a PO's use of scotchlocks

I 3d printed out a new control panel and rewired in a way that I like better than the first. This involves changing how the panel gets power also.
Because working behind the fuse panel (Gary can attest to this) isn't a joy, I decided to make it where I shouldn't have to again and filled in all the extra/unused circuits.

Adding this mainly for my future reference:

Fuse 2: jumper from Black/Green to one leg. Circuit 297. Hot in Run/Acc. Leg coming out - Blue/Yellow. Currently unused.

Fuse 3: Black/Pink in and Black/Pink out. This is just to fuse the circuit coming from the backup switch (transmission) that will go to one of the control panel switches. The buttons/switches I am using don't have a high amp rating and the factory fuse for that circuit is too high.

Fuse 7: Green/White out. This is fed from the fuse/cb in 12. Currently unused

Fuse 10: jumper from Black/Orange to one leg. Circuit 38. Always hot. Leg coming out - Red/White. Used for Control Panel power for lights and some relay triggers.

Fuse 13: jumper from Grey /Yellow. Circuit 687. Hot in Run. Leg coming out - Red. Used for GVOD control box

Fuse 15: already has one leg populated that gets reduced voltage in Start and full in Run. Leg coming out: Blue/White. Currently unused.

I will terminate these 7 wires in a factory wedgelock connector to the left of the radio for usage or future usage.



Had to order some larger molex minifit jr connectors so they should be here tomorrow and I can finish that wiring up.

Still working with the Thermacure to try to clean up my coolant and prevent residue in the overflow tank. I like the 90 degree drain in the radiator so much I added two in place of the block drains. Makes for getting most of the coolant out a whole lot easier.

Tonight I poured in my second bottle of Thermacure after running a few flushes after the first bottle. My main reason (at the cost of a bottle) is to see if it really comes out dark from cleaning the rust or if those dark jugs are primarily due to the residual green coolant that isn't there now.

I will say that the cleaning flushes would be a whole lot faster using a water hose. I am not sure how many trips and gallons of distilled it would take to make the water come out clear. My hesitation is that I am on well water and would prefer to stick with distilled only. I also wonder how much of this amber color is from flash rusting due to running pure distilled?

So far:


Also, having a frustrating time with the carb and choke. Idles great when warm but rough as a cob initially. Doesn't matter if I have the choke on either extreme. Turns out the QFT carb doesn't have a choke pull off. So until the choke opens a little, it's rough. I spoke to Holley today and was told to reduce the curb idle screw and make up the difference by adjusting the secondary throttle plates via the screw on the bottom of the carb.
Does that sound valid? Seems like the only other option would be to rotate the choke way outside the marks.

That’s a lot of work! Interesting what Holley said, hopefully Bill chimes in on the carb issue.

Scott, what is 15?
I know the coil and fuel pumps get full power when cranking and reduced power in run.
But I'm unsure why you would have the opposite.

Opening the secondaries to smooth out the idle seems problematic to me.
But then again... I don't have a race carb on a truck.
Will that have the main throttle plate completely closed to get a proper idle speed at operating temperature?

It really is troublesome, having to remove the carb to make that adjustment. (And flipping it over, spilling all the fuel in the bowls)
How hard would it have been to put the stop screw on the top side?

I had such great hopes for Quick Fuel!
But then all the quality control issues...
And NOW that they are back under Holley's roof.  

Another iconic American brand conglomerated by some fund looking to corner a slice of an already dying industry.
I'm incredulous at the strange, inbred families created when management companies take over what were once niche businesses.

I agree with Dane - that's a LOT of work!

I can't comment about the coolant.  Just don't know.  But I do like the idea of petcocks on the block.

And I shouldn't comment about the carb, but agree with Jim that it doesn't seem right to open the secondaries to get the thing to idle correctly.  However, if that works....

But I certainly can comment on the power circuits and the fuse block.  WORK!  I thought about populating the rest of it, but figured I could get by with the three circuits I added.  However, I like what you did.  

I refrained from making any comment about those jugs (or Scott's apparent need to see a doctor!) because of the nature of the forum....

I wonder if you couldn't phosphate the cooling system, passivating the block and heads, then refill.

Rain water is distilled by nature.
While maybe not as pure as store bought, it's got to be a LOT better than well water as far as anything that will cause scale (carbonates and sulfates)

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Opening the secondaries to smooth out the idle seems problematic to me.
But then again... I don't have a race carb on a truck.
Will that have the main throttle plate completely closed to get a proper idle speed at operating temperature?

It really is troublesome, having to remove the carb to make that adjustment. (And flipping it over, spilling all the fuel in the bowls)
How hard would it have been to put the stop screw on the top side?

Yes this is some what normal to get the main throttle to close so the idle mix screws will work again but then the idle is to low, so you make a " controlled vacuum leak" on the secondary side.

As for the screw you only need to turn it upside down and leak gas all over 1 time.
What you do is pull the screw out and install it from the top so all you need to do it open the secondaries so you can get to the screw and make your adjustment. It may take a few tries to get the idle right but once done you should not need to adjust it again for a long time.

The only other way I know to make a vacuum leak that is done on Holley carbs is to drill small holes in the main throttle blades. Start out really small and go up in size as needed. Just remember to big and you are screwed!
Dave ----

Just a though
What if you have a 4 corner idle mix v4 carb can you still do the secondary opening by screw adjustment?
If it is open it would be just like on the primary side and open to far no?

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I refrained from making any comment about those jugs (or Scott's apparent need to see a doctor!) because of the nature of the forum....

Thanks.  My 9 year old granddaughter has bookmarked the forum on her tablet, so will be checking on what Pop Pop is doing.  And, she quickly, and loudly, said she wants to go camping with me when she saw the picture of the tent.  

Hey guys. Thanks for the replies.

Definitely need to see a doctor although which PhD they need to have is debatable.

Fuse 15 (at least in 86) is for the "Fuel Tank Selector With Aux Fuel Tanks Except 5.0 or 7.5 with Fuel Pumps In Tank". My truck fits the latter so this was unused with only the one leg populated. That leg comes from a splice that includes the LG/R excite wire and what ultimately goes to the Red wire in the DSII. Not sure why Fuse 15 would need reduced voltage in Start though.

The last flush had some gravelly rust come out of the block so will see what happens after a week with the second bottle of Thermacure. Just wish there was a way to get turbulence in there without tap/well water. Guess this is better than nothing though.

I am pretty annoyed with the QuickFuel carbs also and I am having the issue on both the 460 and 400. I would put the original carb back on the 400 but it didn't have a choke at all so it would just kick the can down the road until winter.
It may be a pain but looks like I can access the screw without removing the carb. It overhangs enough I think. The 600cfm on the 400 is an allen so that's even better. The 750 is a slot screw.

As far as removing it and putting the screw in from the top - does that mean it's a through hole or is there somewhere else to put it? I didn't see either but may have missed it.

I got the QFT carbs since my understanding was that they made tuning easier but without a choke pulloff and a less than easy way to adjust the secondaries, I am not buying it. While I don't like having to do this, I do like it better than drilling the holes  I did see some references to doing that Dave and they had the same warning as you - don't start too big.

That screw has the slot on the under side and why the carb has to come off and flipped over to adjust.
The FIS is to remove the screw and install it in the same holt from the top.
This way you can adjust it with out needing to remove and flip the carb over.
When you see how it's set up the light bulb will go off.
Dave. ----

Scott,
I have both a 600 Holley 0-80457-S and a 650 Eddy AVS 'Thunder' sitting on the shelf.
The chokes on them work fine.

If you need a carb for Chanute LMK.
You have my email.

Thanks Jim, I appreciate that. After spending the money on this one, I really hope I can make it work. Once I figure out one, the other truck should be the same.

Dave - you're right. A little more looking and I see how it works. I should have, but didn't realize the screw was only adjusting the stop right above. With my spacer I was able to turn it without removing the carb. I only did it an 1/8 of a turn which didn't do enough to make a difference and ended up setting it back. Going to call Holley again tomorrow to get a second rep's opinion.

I had my timing gun connected and was watching the rpms (in case the secondary did have an impact). Since the truck was running I wanted to get it warm enough to circulate the Thermacure for a bit so I turned the A/C on. That really dropped the rpms and the voltmeter reflected it. Started turning on lights, etc and watched the needle drop.
While I have  Holley on the phone I am going to ask them about their throttle stop solenoid and if it will work with my auto trans kickdown since the brackets look exclusive. Hate that it's a STOP vs a kicker though as I'd rather have something hands off in case a passenger turns the ac on while I am out of the truck. Just another case of trying to go with a simpler setup and yet end up recreating what the factory already had....

I spent a little time after festivities finishing up dash control v2 and wiring it all up. Similar to how Gary has some of his buttons, the backup lights, backup camera, and driving lights are now able to turn on automatically with Reverse or High Beams, respectively, or they can be manually turned on. Thought I would be happy with only having everything on manual control but that quickly passed after some real world usage.

Leds are a bit bright but I am happy with the retro look of the light up dials. Wired so that rotated left is Auto, middle is Off, right is On. Led is lit anytime the load is on.

Looks great, Scott!  I really like it snuggled up in that compartment.  

Your printed panel really looks great, Scott!  

Couldn't you tie the solenoid to somewhere upstream of the compressor clutch?
So it would be on whenever A/C was selected?

Thanks guys!

Jim - C616 looks like a good candidate. Where that solenoid bracket mounts is the same place my kickdown return spring mounts so hoping they have a combo bracket or solution to that.

Spent most of the weekend cleaning the shop in preparation to rebuild the 1980's np435.
Took care of a handful of things on the 86 though.

Rotated the choke a little outside the marks enough to crack it. This has made startups great with no roughness. Still seems like there should be a pulloff and not sure how much I'll have to rotate it in the winter but for now it works.

Found some PIAA fog lenses to replace the driving lenses on the backup lamps so swapped them out.
 

I would love to know if Ford had any plans for Fuse 2 and 3.
Decided to make/print a spacer for them while watching a movie last night to look more factory (despite the color ) and so the fuses aren't so 'exposed'.





Did a few more flushes of the cooling system so will take a drive and then actually get coolant back in it. Not really sure about Thermacure right now though. The last couple flushes had some aluminum like paste and were milky white. It said it was safe for aluminum so not sure what the deal is. Will call tech support tomorrow and ask.

Scott - You are outside the normal range of the choke index marks?  I am on Big Blue as well, on the rich side. Don’t think I’ve ever had to do that before so it worries me. But it seems to work fine, so it must be ok. Still, I wonder why?

You found fog lenses and that turned the lights from driving to fog?  I guess I’d never really thought about it, but had always assumed there was more to it than that. But the reflector is probably set up the same in both cases, so I guess it is all down to the lens. Cool!

As for the spacer, it is neat that you can do those kinds of things. I’d think it would take me a long time to draw it up, but you seem to do it easily. 👍

Morning Gary!

Yes, I was trying to avoid it but haven't found a great alternative to rotating it outside the marks and the lack of answers I got from Holley wasn't inspiring. Short of spinning the choke completely around a couple times, I can't see how it would hurt the spring and it's less committal than other options. Interesting that you had to take yours the other way. Do you recall when you first hit the pedal to set the choke does it close completely but then open a bit when you first start?

I was a bit surprised on the lens swap as well. Was looking for some covers to have as backup since they don't make them anymore and the seller mentioned having the lenses. I asked him the same question about there being more to it but he informed me it was as simple as loosening two screws and switching them out. Sure enough it was.

I've seen the stuff you design and make so I've no doubt you'd pick this process up in no time. What gets me (little bittersweet) is how being able to create something/anything like this in our living room is normal for my kids and yet I am still mesmerized by it

Evening, Scott.  As you will discover, we flew right past you today so I've not had time to respond.

On the choke, I don't know if it fully closes.  I think it does, or should, as I set it almost closed to start with and it was lean so I added more - two or three times.  And now I'm at the end of the scale.  I wonder if the intake having been designed for air rather than a fuel/air mix has anything to do with that?

As for designing, yes, I think I could pick it up.  But I'll bet the kids pick it up immediately.  It is bittersweet, that's for sure.  Maybe I should get a printer so the grands have more reason to come see me?  

The dash control looks great Scott. I also like your back-up lights as well as the placement of them. Should really light things up for you when backing up after dark.