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The Camano Experience

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Gary Lewis

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

That was my thinking as well.

If I move the backup lights and trailer lights to relays I'm also going to move their feed to the main battery. But the trailer battery feed will stay with the aux battery.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

kramttocs

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

This post was updated on .

I can't recall with your wiring changes but are the fuel pump and trailer brake fuse links still over on the driver's side fmr? I know the blue wire for the fuel pump on crank needs to stay over there along with the shutoff connector but it'd be nice to move the others to the isolator (main battery side) and shorten the length of those circuits.

Edit for spelling that was bugging me.

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio

Gary Lewis

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

The fuse links have been turned into fuses in the passenger-side PDB. If I had it to do over again I'd leave them as fuse links for now and then put fuses in the driver-side PDB. But I'm not going to change now.

EDIT: That wouldn't have worked. There is no fender-mounted starter relay on which to put the fuse links. So something had to change, and I decided to turn them into fuses in that PDB.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ArdWrknTrk

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

Can't you always attach fuse links to the stud for the Megafuse?

That's what I ended up doing for cab power and ??

when I got rid of my fender relay and installed the tiny 6 position relay/fuse PDC in my truck.

It seems to work fine.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Can't you always attach fuse links to the stud for the Megafuse?

That's what I ended up doing for cab power and ?? when I got rid of my fender relay and installed the tiny 6 position relay/fuse PDC in my truck.

It seems to work fine.

Yes, that would work fine. But I didn't think of that.

But it worked out fine anyway as I wanted fuses rather than fuse links. On the other hand it made for more work.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

kramttocs

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

Started the truck up and took it for a drive today. This is the first time in months and the first since I did all the rewiring and carb swap. I've read some people experience a 'wake up' when going to a 750 from a 600 but this truck really seemed to drive the same. Not a complaint as the main reason for the swap was to get the newer 600 on the 80 but was still hoping for a little something

Part of the delay in driving it was the rust showing up in the overflow tank as well as the heater core leaking. Have the thermocure in there now and the heater core is bypassed to avoid unnecessarily contaminating it. Will drive it for a week or two and then drain. The right angle radiator drain is well worth it. I had put a couple gallons of distilled water in to ensure the drain didn't leak and then drained it. Words can't describe how nice it was to drain. A few drops come out the end of the drain (where the T handle is) while draining but they just run down the hose and nothing needed cleaned up.

After shutting the truck off I noticed a slight hissing noise from the radiator. Turns out the reviews are right and the anode radiator cap doesn't seal very well. Going to take a look at that tomorrow afternoon. Since the radiator neck has the bottom port that is capped off I am thinking that I could remove the cap, slide an aluminum rod or something in there, replace the cap and thus keeping the rod in place, attach the anode to the rod and then use the original cap. Just was a quick thought I had that may not pan out.

My switches (ordered in Dec) for the Dash Control came in today so will be printing up a new panel to accommodate the new functionality. I'll add a photo when done but I am replacing some of the push buttons with 3 position dials. Same model line as the push buttons so will retain the look I was going for.

Question for you guys. My brake controller has a dial that allows you to adjust the braking. I assume this is a rheostat? Will it cause any issues if I cut the wires and put a connector inline? Haven't done anything with rheostats before.

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio

FuzzFace2

Re: The Camano Experience

kramttocs wrote

Turns out the reviews are right and the anode radiator cap doesn't seal very well.

Question for you guys. My brake controller has a dial that allows you to adjust the braking. I assume this is a rheostat? Will it cause any issues if I cut the wires and put a connector inline? Haven't done anything with rheostats before.

So what is this anode going to do for you?
I know the rod is to take the punishment and not part of the system so what part are you trying to save?

What line do you want to "tap into" and why?
The controller should have 2 adjustments if you want to call them that.
1 is how much total power goes to the trailer. A heavy trailer would have more total power to the brakes than a empty trailer. This may also tell the controller how fast to "ramp up" if it is the cheaper time based controller.

The other is a manual lever or slide to applies the trailer brakes with out touching the brake pedal.

IIRC there are 4 wires
power in
ground
brake light
and line to the trailer brakes.

Now the only wire the rheostat controls is the line to the trailer brakes why would you want to tap into it?
Me I would not. The trailer brake controller is just for the trailer and nothing else gets put on the wires for it in my book.
If it warms up enough to day maybe I will finish my controller install?
Dave ----

Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

Gary Lewis

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

In reply to this post by kramttocs

Scott - I'm sorry to see that the cap leaks. But at least the drain worked well.

(My drain is laying on my computer table awaiting its installation.)

But I didn't follow what you were talking about doing on the port in the neck. If you are thinking of inserting the anode in there I believe it would work. However, is there a circuit or something to go to it? Like a ground? I'd think you'd need to insulate the anode from the radiator. Maybe if you had just the right size of rubber hose to go in that fitting and put the anode in it. Then put a hose over that onto the fitting. But how to seal it on the end?

On the brake controller, you can put a connector in, no problem.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Gary Lewis

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

In reply to this post by FuzzFace2

Dave - Didn't see your post before I replied, but I think Scott is just wanting to put a connector into the circuit so he had remove the part easily. Not tap into the circuit. At least, that was my guess and the reason I responded the way I did.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ArdWrknTrk

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

I had to put a new rubber cap on that nuisance little port just the other day.
The ONLY time I've ever seen it used is for a return from throttle body heating.

Do you know why else it would be there?
Or any reason I shouldn't epoxy it shut?

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

I'm pretty sure that's what it is for, Jim. On the early EFI trucks there was a line coming off the heater hose and going through the throttle body and then into that port. But they discontinued that on the later EFI trucks. So it should be able to be sealed off.

I've wondered about tapping it and running a pipe plug in, but am afraid it is too thin.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FuzzFace2

Re: The Camano Experience

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Gary Lewis wrote

Dave - Didn't see your post before I replied, but I think Scott is just wanting to put a connector into the circuit so he had remove the part easily. Not tap into the circuit. At least, that was my guess and the reason I responded the way I did.

If it is like most of the controllers I have dealt with there should not be a need to "tap in" to anything if he was to remove it.
Power all the time and ground should be stand alone and just removed from were they tie into the trucks system like fuse box for power & dash frame ground.

The trailer brake wire is also stand alone from controller to rear trailer light hook up socket.
Could just be cut at the controller and tied up out of the way as it is not "hot".

The brake light wire should use a scotch block to pick up the brake lights. Remove the block & wire and you are done.

I also want to know why he added the rod to the cooling system?
What is he trying to save?
When I worked at the hospital we had them in the 2 drinking foutian water coolers to save the tanks from rusting along with the piping of the system.
Water was pumped through out the hospital and returned back to the chillers to be re-cooled and filtered before doing the loop again.

Now that I think of it the hot water loops did not have a rod in the 2 systems so I wonder if the rod only works in cold water? Forgot the kitchen loop did not have a rod either.
Dave ----

ArdWrknTrk

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

I won't say what I think of Scotch-Locs on a family forum, nor where I anyone who even thinks of using one should put it....

There are (somewhat) acceptable ways of making a vampire splice.
I've discussed and shown them before.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

kramttocs

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

In reply to this post by FuzzFace2

Thanks for the replies guys - busy day and I'll respond in full when I finish in the shop.
Dave - this brake controller is a 'hidden' unit so what is normally a dial or up/down buttons on the controller itself is remote to this one. Not a kind that is very common. Gary is correct - since it goes through the dash I want to add a connector inline to make it easier to work on the dash and do some wiring outside the truck.

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio

kramttocs

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

The anode is to protect the aluminum radiator and intake. Is it needed? I really don't know but with it being in the cap it doesn't (well, shouldn't) provide an inconvenience and is cheap insurance. Before looking any further into using that lower port I removed the cap and bent the ears a little so it was a tighter fit. I think that did it but will know for sure after a drive tomorrow.
My brief thought process was to shove an aluminum rod in there all the way to the other side of the neck that would be held in place with a cap over the end of the port (like is there now). Then hang the anode off that rod, suspended out in the middle just like it does when coming off the cap. I believe the anode is hooked to a rubber coated loop on the radiator cap so something similar would need done. Hopefully just bending the tabs was enough.

I am with you Jim - that port is a nuisance. I don't like relying on just a clamped on cap and the epoxy route is appealing. Gary - I looked at mine and agree - doesn't look like a good candidate for a threads. Shame as that would be ideal.

Dave - here is the controller

Definitely a deviation from the normal style.
The harness of interest is the center one that has a dial and push button. Right now with the custom dash panel in the dash bezel cubby I have to fish that dial/button through and it's a pain. The led is already in a connector so I want to cut those other 4 wires and put them in the same connector. I was hoping it wasn't a problem but wanted to "ask twice and cut once"

Jim - sign me up as a member of the anti-scotch-locs team. It would have to be a really, really special use case for me to consider them but I've heard good things about the Posi-taps.

Took me a long time with the weather but finally got the trailer wiring finished. This included replacing two of the three center running lights on the back with backup lights. Really happy with how they turned out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MCWMK9G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . The lights aren't anything really special but I needed something that would fit in the same hole as the current lights and these did that.
Now I've got the 80 1 ton loaded up to get the driveshaft figured out tomorrow morning. 100 mile round trip which I need to get some runtime on the Thermocure.

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio

ArdWrknTrk

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

I'm thinking I may just tap the little sprue to give the epoxy a bite.
It isn't likely to get above 212/100* so I may just use Marine-Tex.

Posi-Taps, -splice, terminations of any kind may be a bit more bulky, but used with dielectric grease don't corrode, don't damage the wire strands, don't fail and are infinitely reusable.

I used to get a lot of crap fixing the tow trucks.
I pretty much had to say "leave me alone and get out of my way or I'm walking right now. I'm under here because you meatheads can't be bothered to do it right. Not for me to do it wrong again!"

Nobody likes lying on the side of 95 with their lighting out because the $.15 connector either cut the wire or the darn thing shorted.
Plus, these newer light bars brain get fried if you short them. It can be very expensive

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

FuzzFace2

Re: The Camano Experience

Scott, I don't see why you could not cut the wires and add them to a connector or plug that would be easier to feed through the dash.
I would think even if you had to add to the wires to make them longer it would not change anything on how it works.
Just my guess
Dave ----

Gary Lewis

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

In reply to this post by kramttocs

Scott - I see what you are planning on the anode, and that should work - assuming there is enough room for it to hang there. But you might need to bend it to get it in, and that won't cause a problem as it is the surface area that does the trick.

And I see no problem at all placing a connector in that circuit. I'd sure do it as getting it out of there can't be fun.

I'm in full agreement on the scotch-locs. If I don't make it to heaven (but I will) I'm going to look the guy that invented them up and hit him really hard. Dad used those things everywhere and I had to take them off and repair things.

Glad you got the trailer done. I'll bet those lights make a huge difference.

Jim - On tapping the sprue, I have a wide range of taps, including #14-20, and will see what would go in there w/o too much deformation. If we could get some decent threads we could run something in and epoxy it. (Yes, 14-20, not 1/4-20, which I also have.)

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ArdWrknTrk

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

I don't care about a screw or bolt.
I just don't want the plastic to swell with heat and let it loose.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: The Camano Experience

Administrator

The sprue on my Champion radiator measures .304" ID and .383" OD. The only tap that seems to work with those dimensions is an 8 x 1.25mm. It measures .282 & .321". So I ran it in the sprue, and it cut threads. Then I ran this bolt in. Went in easily and obviously doesn't have the depth of thread needed for strength, but if it was put in with epoxy would it hold?

Obviously that's not very pretty, and looking online there are some options of 8 x 1.25mm plugs. But most of those are steel. I suppose they'd be fine since the block is cast iron.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

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