Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

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Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

Gary Lewis
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This post was updated on .
This thread is to document the installation of Sky's Offroad Design's 85-91 Ford F-350 4x4 2" Front Shackle Reversal (Superduty Spring) kit on Big Blue. This is being done separately from the Big Blue's Transformation thread in an effort to keep things focused.

That's because Erik at Sky has asked me to work with him on any issues that might arise in the installation as this is a new kit. He's installed it himself but wants feedback from people who haven't been close to its development. So this thread is specific to this kit. Having said that, I am also going to install Sky's 85-97 Ford F-350 4x4 Adjustable Panhard Trac Bar, so this thread will include that as well.

And, Erik wants pictures and measurements. So I've taken a few of both and include them here, but will be adding to them if he wants different measurements or pics. Here's an embedded spreadsheet with the measurements, which I'll update as the project goes on and those measurements will automagically appear here. And, for my reference, the file is "D60 Installation" and it is in Big Blue's Suspension folder.

Here's a pic of the left front. Note the dark spot on the fender liner. That appears to be where the tire hits at full left lock, although the right fender liner doesn't have any marks so it isn't being hit on turns. Apparently a 32.9" tire is about the max that can/should be crammed in these wheelwells with the stock suspension.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

salans7
Subscribed.
-Shaun
1980/86/90 Ford F350 4x4 ENG?/NP435/D60-Sterling
2003 Ford Ranger V6/M5OD/8.8
"I didn't choose the bullnose life, the bullnose life chose me."
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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
I subscribed via 'options' the moment I saw this thread drop.  
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Thanks, guys.  I've invited Erik to join the forum as I think this would be the easiest way to communicate regarding any issues that arise.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Ok, it is time to kick off this thread in earnest since I started on the RSK installation today.

But, before we get into that you may need some background if you haven't been following Big Blue's Transformation.  That's because I discovered that the front of the frame was bent.  The measurement from the outside of the frame was 41 1/8" when it is supposed to be 40".

I bring that up here because I don't think everything I am experiencing on Big Blue is normal.  I'm guessing that not only was the frame bent out, it is also slightly twisted, and that is making the installation of the reverse shackle kit more difficult that it should be.  However, Big Blue is almost 35 years old, so a lot can happen during that length of time.

Anyway, I did get started on installation of the RSK today.  The first step is to grind flush the heads of the rivets that hold the spring shackle brackets on.  With that done I tried to slip the new bracket over the frame, but it wouldn't go for several reasons.

The big reason was due to the distance between frame horns, which had crept back up to more than 40".  So I put the come-along on.  But everywhere I picked initially was in the way.  Finally I put it between the two frame liners and that worked and was out of the way.  Here's a pic of where I put the come-along, in case your frame is tweaked as well.  And, you can also see a couple of other things.  First, that I used c-clamps to hold the frame brackets or fillers in place as they kept falling out.  Second, that I found that starting the bracket from the top worked best.  Get it on and then rotate it down.




I finally got the thing almost in position, but without the engine in I can't really push up without raising the truck up.  So tomorrow it'll come off and I'm going to do a better job of smoothing the heads of the rivets as I think they are causing some problems.  And, I'm going to round the corners/edges of the Sky bracket's flanges as they are crisp and catch on anything and everything on the frame.

But, I also had a realization that caused a call to Erik.  Their picture is on the left, below, and mine is on the right.  And the obvious difference is that my frame doesn't have the holes in it that theirs does.  Erik said I'll have to drill the holes, and explained how to properly situate the bracket by rotating it on the front shackle bolts and measuring back to the original rear shackles.  Then I can mark the holes and drill them.


Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

85lebaront2
Administrator
Gary, the holes in the frame in Sky's picture are of a 1991-97 frame, those are the bumper mount holes I referred to in another thread. Obviously Sky's kit would fit between the bumper mounts and the frame on a later truck.
Bill Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F-350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 1994 Taurus LX Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

salans7
FWIW, my 86 frame has holes in that location, but they are smaller and circular, not oval like the 87-91 trucks.
-Shaun
1980/86/90 Ford F350 4x4 ENG?/NP435/D60-Sterling
2003 Ford Ranger V6/M5OD/8.8
"I didn't choose the bullnose life, the bullnose life chose me."
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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

85lebaront2
Administrator
Darth had none, but like BB is the HD frame.
Bill Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F-350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 1994 Taurus LX Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Ok guys, I guess there is a lot of variability in the frames.

Which is a perfect lead in to the problems I had today.  But first, what went well, sorta.  And that was to drill the bolt holes for the shackle bolts out to 7/8" to take the "frame sleeve" from Sky.  Here's a pic of the frame sleeve sitting on top of the frame, and the holes that I drilled out below it and to the right a bit.

I say "holes" because I drilled both the inside and outside holes on each side of the truck.  In other words, the frame and the riveted-on hanger.  But, when I got to thinking about what the instructions say I wasn't sure I'd done it right, so called Erik and confirmed that both were to have been drilled.




Here's a shot with the sleeve installed in the hole.  Unfortunately I didn't get a pic of the inside where the sleeve goes into the riveted-on hanger.  But the sleeve only engages about 1/3 of the thickness of the hanger.  I spent some time cleaning up and radiusing the holes on the outside of the frame to accept the radius where the narrow part of the sleeve hits the "knob", but even then I couldn't get much more engagement.  That's a problem because the sleeve falls out of the hanger and you have to reach up inside to put it back in.  Plus, as you'll see, the inside holes for the bracket don't line up and while you are trying to line them up the sleeve keeps falling out.

Erik agreed that they should make the sleeve longer as he had the same problem on the one "early truck", as he calls ours, on which he installed this kit.  But for me, I'm seriously considering tack welding it in place.  However, that means I have to paint it with weld-through primer before I install it.




But, with smoothing the rivets more and rounding the edges of the plates on Sky's bracket I was able to get the bracket on today.  Here's a shot of it in about the right location, save for the problem described below.  And, you can see the 5/8" shackle bolt is started through the sleeve and the frame.




And, now for the real problem.  In the pics below, which are left/driver's side and right/passenger's side, the bracket is in place and the 5/8" shackle bolts have been inserted through the hole in the outside plate of the bracket, through the sleeve described above, and up against the inside plate on the bracket.  But the holes don't line up!  However, they do line up when the bracket is not on the truck.  

And that's the point at which I called Erik at Sky.  He remembered having the same battles on the one "early truck" he put this kit on, both the battle of the sleeve falling out and the holes not lining up.  And then he asked "Was this originally a TTB truck?"  At which point I think it dawned on me what the problem is - the frame horns are twisted.  I can't say for sure why they are twisted, but I'm guessing that the rotation of the TTB twisting the springs also twisted the frame over time.

As for what to do about it, I'm thinking of bolting a piece of channel to the bumper holes and using a come-along from the top of it to the frame on the other side.  That should bring the inside end of the bolt down and let it come through the hole.  Then I'll move the channel to the other side and do the same thing.

Thoughts?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

85lebaront2
Administrator
Thought for you, bolt a hunk of angle to the radiator support mounts on each side, even if you end up doing one side at a time you will have the leverage to twist the top in and may be able to do both sides at once with a single come along.
Bill Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F-350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 1994 Taurus LX Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

Gary Lewis
Administrator
85lebaront2 wrote
Thought for you, bolt a hunk of angle to the radiator support mounts on each side, even if you end up doing one side at a time you will have the leverage to twist the top in and may be able to do both sides at once with a single come along.
That's basically my plan, but I'm not sure the radiator supports are that strong so I'm planning to bolt to the bumper holes.  I think I have some channel and 3' of that will give me quite a bit of leverage.  I'll probably put a large ratchet strap from the other frame to the top of the channel so I have some control.  Start twisting and see where the holes go.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Well, another step forward and another "opportunity" in Conoco-speak.  

But first, to follow up on a question Erik asked yesterday.  My measurements show the sleeve should be .100" longer to get full engagement in the spring hanger.  Here's a shot showing it coming almost exactly half way through:



And now for a plug for Erik at Sky.  He's so good to work with.  Yes, there are some issue, but this is one of the first Bullnose trucks this kit has been installed on.  And he's eager to find out what the problems are and change the kit to resolve them.  So don't take the fact that there are issues as saying you shouldn't do this.  Erik is going to get this fixed.  For sure!

Now for the step forward.  The plan to use a 3' lever on the bumper bolt holes got the shackle bolts very close to coming through the inside.  But while I could move them up and down with the come-along, they were just too far to the rear to come through.

I called Erik at Sky and we agreed that the best approach would be to enlarge the holes in the frame and shackle where the sleeve goes through to allow the sleeve to pivot a bit.  So I took about 1/16" off the front of the holes on the inside, and another 1/16" off the outside holes at the back.  And that allowed the bolts to go through.  

Here's a shot of the lever and the come-along that allowed the passenger's side bolt to go in, and you can see the bolt sticking through.




Ok, now it was time to move to the next step in the instructions: measure from the center of the factory rear shackle's eye to the eye on the front bracket and rotate it on the frame until it is at 55 1/2".  But as shown below, all I got was 54 1/2",  And while there's still 3/16" between the upper left corner of the flange and the radiator support bracket, the math says that that will only get me 9/16" at the bolt hole.

So I called Erik again, and we came up with this plan: trim the flange enough to allow it to rotate and get the full 55 1/2".  And if that causes a problem elsewhere we'll deal with that then.  My math says it'll take trimming 3/16", but we shall see.



But, I can already see two spots where we'll have a bit of trouble.  In the pic on the left you can just see the frame box through the hole, and when the flange rotates there will be more interference.  So the frame box will need to be trimmed.

And in the pic on the right you can just see the frame box through the upper rear hole so it'll get trimmed as well.

Anyway, we are making progress!  And what is it Jim says about progress?  

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

salans7
I don't have much to say aside from the fact that I'm glad Erik is working with you to get these issues resolved.
-Shaun
1980/86/90 Ford F350 4x4 ENG?/NP435/D60-Sterling
2003 Ford Ranger V6/M5OD/8.8
"I didn't choose the bullnose life, the bullnose life chose me."
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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Erik's been not only very helpful but also apologetic.  He said today that while he appreciates me being willing to grind here and there, the average customer wants a kit that fits.  So he is wanting to know what changes he'll have to make to get it right.

However, there's the variability of these trucks that really can't be taken into account.  Their piece has the shackle bolts running parallel to the ground, but Big Blue's shackle bolts weren't.  Nor were they the same, with the driver's side being at more of an angle than the passenger's side.  Was it coincidence that the driver's side was the one that was also bent out?  I doubt it.

And, is there any credibility to my thought that the TTB action of twisting the spring also twisted the frame horns?

So my bet is that some amount of tweaking will be necessary to install this kit on Bullnose trucks.  And, I should have said by this point, a dead-blow hammer is a necessity.  I have a Harbor Freight dead-blow and it has been used to put the bracket on, rotate it, and take it off.  I don't think I could do this w/o either a dead-blow or a 2x4 and a sledge.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

85lebaront2
Administrator
Gary, I have definitely found a BFH is a very useful tool on the heavy frame trucks. That, and as you have found anything you can use to pull things into place.
Bill Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F-350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 1994 Taurus LX Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

salans7
There was a company making crossmembers for 1998-2011 Rangers that connected the two rear most lower control arm mounts on the front suspension. Every crossmember had to be built based upon the customers' provided measurements because that measurement was different between every truck due to frame flex, especially on trucks that were used off-road.

So I can only imagine that the same applies here, and that makes it hard for Sky to make a 100% bolt on kit.
-Shaun
1980/86/90 Ford F350 4x4 ENG?/NP435/D60-Sterling
2003 Ford Ranger V6/M5OD/8.8
"I didn't choose the bullnose life, the bullnose life chose me."
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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yes and yes, guys.  The dead-blow doesn't leave marks, so gets used a lot.  The sledge and a 2x4 carries a bit more punch but only gets used when the dead-blow can't get it done even with many blows.

As Erik said, these trucks were crudely-built when new, and they are far from new.  Judging by the camper tie downs and the 5th wheel hitch bracket in the bed, this one has been used.  And with a 460, two batteries, and a winch sitting up front, as well as probably a big camper hanging over the cab, the front suspension has been carrying quite a load.

So it is no wonder that the frame is wonky.  I'm not thrilled by the work it is taking to install this kit, but I am certainly glad that bracket will be on the front tying everything together and the straight axle won't be trying to contort things on every bump.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Well, I think I need to talk to Erik about the issue outlined a couple of days ago.  But, I'd like input from y'all in case I'm missing something.

Basically, from what I've found today I believe the front bracket needs to be redesigned.  Erik told me on Wednesday that when he installed it on one of these trucks the spring hole was too far forward so he redesigned the bracket and moved it back, and that he may have moved it too far.  As of now I'm convinced he is right.  But please read on and tell me if you agree.

As background, once the front bracket is on you are supposed to measure from the center of the factory's rear spring hanger for the front spring to the center of the spring bolt hole on the bracket and then rotate the bracket until that distance is 55 1/2".  And where we left that bracket was with the dimension at 54 1/2".  But, it looked like I could rotate the bracket another 3/16" before it would hit the radiator support bracket, which would give me another 9/16" at the spring hole, and the plan was for me to trim the bracket away from the radiator support until I got the 55 1/2" measurement, as shown in this pic:



However, when I started working on it today it wouldn't rotate that last 3 1/16", so I started looking for why, and found it.  The crossbar was hitting the lower front of the frame below the lower front bumper bolt.




So I cut a 1/2" strip off where it was hitting, and got it to this, but only got the measurement to 54 13/16".  And note that now the weld is starting to be an issue.  




So more looking, and here's what I've come to.  In the pic below you can see that the bracket is pivoting on the bolt.  I need 55 1/12 - 54 13/16" = 11/16" more movement, but the crossbar is now rotating right up the end of the bumper, so a whole lot of trimming is going to be needed, which will weaken the bumper support - which is where the 12,000 lb winch attaches.




On top of that, as shown below, with any more rotation of the bracket it'll be hitting the back side of the bumper since it will be sticking out in front of the frame.



And, since Sky wants a bolt-on kit I believe the flanges need to be redesigned.  So I'll send Erik a link to this post and then call him first thing Monday and talk it over with him.  But, maybe I'm missing something so please let me know what.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

salans7
What are you going to do about the rest of the mounting holes? The more you pivot the crossmember, the further you put everything else out of line. How are you going to manipulate the pieces that box the frame in to match the crossmember holes?



I'm SERIOUSLY reconsidering this kit, btw. If you're having this much trouble getting it to work on a truck that it was meant for, I might be better off running their Bronco/F150 crossmember and calling it a day.
-Shaun
1980/86/90 Ford F350 4x4 ENG?/NP435/D60-Sterling
2003 Ford Ranger V6/M5OD/8.8
"I didn't choose the bullnose life, the bullnose life chose me."
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Re: Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Shaun - Don't be too quick to bail.  Erik is going to get it right.  I'm just the point man that is taking all the arrows.

As for the two through bolts on each side, I sorta addressed those in my email to Erik just now, shown below.  If he redesigns the bracket to move the bolt hole forward 1 1/8" then there's essentially no problem with those bolts.

However, my frame doesn't have any holes, so I'm not constrained to where those bolts go with the exception of where the box is w/in the frame.

So, what is different about your frame?

Also, there are guys on the bullnose fords 80-86 FB page following this thread.  Kevin Durham and Vincent Wayne Thomason (oh wait, Vincent just replied...) are discussing it and Vincent just ordered the kit yesterday and is now hoping Sky doesn't ship his until this issue is resolved.

I'm sure it will be resolved, and I'm happy to be the guy that helps them do it.


Erik - After today's work I'm convinced you are going to have to redesign the flanges on the bracket to move the pivot hole forward at least 1".  I wrote it up here and I'll call you about it on Monday morning.  http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Sky-s-Offroad-Design-Super-Duty-RSK-Install-tp34173p36050.html

As said in that post, the issue is that any more rotation is going to require significant cutting of the front of the frame.  And, the bracket is going to stick out in front of the frame and hit the bumper.  Plus there will need to be cutting or grinding on the frame box.

I've attached a pic of where the thing sits with a measurement of 54 3/8", and it looks like what I suspect you want in the way of fitting to the frame.  At that point the other bolts go through with minimal, if any, cutting of the frame box.  But any more rotation than that requires some cutting of the box.

Gary
918-859-7400


Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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