Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

The MPC isn't 100% correct, but it is the best we have.

Gotcha. Although it seems that whatever the difference is, it isn't enough to matter since everybody in the ECU rebuilder world Puts's all the ZA's and ZB's under the same part number

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Been hell week at work. Helicoil set came... only for the coils to be the wrong size (tap and installer is correct at least!). Luckily, I am able to order through O'reiley online and get them shipped to store for $10. Also went ahead and ordered a cardone ECU from there... cheaper than RA considering that I got free shipping and that I can return the core to the local store and not have to pay return shipping. Go figure.

I was able to tap out the manifold... although my socket extension rubbed a hole in the insulation sleeve over the hot side of my new choke tube. At least it's hidden under the intake... Still not happy since it frayed on me. Grr...

I suspect that there were really small differences in the ECU, probably for emissions purposes, that don't make much difference in daily driving.

Glad you can get it worked out through O'Reilly's.

Stuff came in and I have things to report.

First, as it turns out, the correct helicoil was in the kit I bought... it's supposed to be bigger... that's how it locks in. DUH. I feel so stupid... suffice to say with some difficulty I was able to helicoil the mainfold and re-install the O2. Having to disconnect and reconnect the exahaust from the manifold wasn't good for my rotted termactor tube; the exhaust leak there got a lot worse after. More on that in a bit.

Installed the reman'd ECU. Initial KOEO test gave me fault 15 (KAM fault)... figured it was a new ECU startup issue, and drove it some. No real change in performance. Noted my cruise control and horn was dead... that was due to idiot here shorting out the lighter socket back when I was doing )2 testing and slipped while using the socket for my ground. The cruise "on" signal is powered from the horn relay side of the horn switch (cheaty way to get a +12V reference without adding a connection to the steering wheel harness), which is why popping the horn/lighter fuse also effectively kills cruise (cannot power on).

Did a KOER test after a 2nd test drive confirming that cruise was working again. Botched the test (didn't fully floor the throttle when 10 came up, only tapped it a bit), got codes 23 and 44. 23 is probably the botched test (will retry tomorrow); 44 (thermactor fault) might be the blown thermactor injection pipe?

MPG wise, it's too early to say. I'm getting no O2 codes at KOER, so I guess that's an improvement?

One other note: there has always been a high pitched squeal when running. Thought it was the thermal air diverter valve in the air cleaner housing, determined that it's not that. Re-smoked it, no vacuum leaks appeared. Sounds like it's coming from the carb but I can't nail it down. Ideas?

In reverse order, I've been around a carb that squealed and I never did figure out why.  Sorry.

On getting no O2 codes on KOER, that is an improvement, for sure.

But I don't think the ECU can tell if there's a blown thermactor pipe.  So I can't account for that code.

As for the fault 15, are you saying the KAM wasn't getting power and you now have it fixed?  I got lost there.

Overall, I'd drive it a bit and test again.

60 miles later... 11.5MPG.  It was 60 miles of mostly country roads and small town commuting though... so not a fair test?

No change in performance... Due to bozo here leaving the lights on yesterday and not being able to get it home until 20 minutes ago, I haven't done another KOER test.

I'm stumped... could it be a gearing issue? I do know with some of the "older" rangers that the shallowest gearing options actually made economy worse? I'm running 3.08 gears. The only part of the driveline I haven't serviced is the transmission; the fluid didn't seem to be bad and I balked at the cost of the full change quantity of mercon V (which would include draining the TC, which I've read is part of the service?). It's not slipping or the like. It does need aligned badly, but I doubt that would have enough drag to account for a 25% loss in economy?

I really don't want to take the stock control/emissions/vacuum system out and have to redo all of it (HEI/DSII and different carb swap)... a lot of work and expense that IMO isn't worth it for my application (plus, my distaste for doing cookie cutter builds and trashing oddball technology for trashing's sake). But if it's not running right and never will, I don't want to kill my freshly rebuilt engine. I also don't want this to turn into a bigger money pit than it already has been.

Man, thats a bummer!

How many miles on the rebuilt engine? May need some more time to “seat” the rings.

I wanted to leave the EGR on my truck, but haven’t found the right setup to get it to run right. And it runs real good with it blocked off. Half or more of the emissions were gone when I got the truck.

Funny, I did some searching, and discovered I completely neglected my EGR system. My buddy suggested I do so when the manifold was off... "nah too expensive"... DOH!

Pulled the valve, was dirty but wasn't jammed. However, I did a vacuum test with a syringe, and discovered it's leaking like a sieve. Probably a bad diaphragm... will replace.

Edit: Found a killer deal on valves: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ford-egr-valve-Standard-Motor-Products-EGV-243-1983-86-trk-100-to-350-4-9-5-0/183724154657?epid=74452957&hash=item2ac6d01f21:g:DbUAAOSwvQdchXNR

Beats $85 everywhere else!

(and yes, I crossreferenced it to the calibration list, this is the right part)

Good find!

Yes, good find!

I can't imagine it is either transmission, gearing, or alignment causing the low MPG.  Instead I think it is a lot of little things, and the leaking EGR is one of them.

However, let's be realistic on what to expect on MPG.  The best I've seen with any engine and an automatic is 14 MPG at 60 - 65 MPH.  That was a 351W I built with an RV cam, ported heads, and a 2150 2bbl carb.  And the gearing was 3.50 with a C6.  But you have a 300 six w/an AOD and 3.08 gearing.  At first blush you'd think much better MPG.  But if you are just tooling around town with stop and go driving probably not as the stopping and starting kills economy.  And you aren't getting into the top gears with those speeds.

So I'd fix the EGR and keep looking for little things.  Like checking that the balancer hasn't slipped and you have it timed @ about 12 - 14 degrees BTDC.  That the plugs and plug wires are good.  No vacuum leaks to anything.  And drive it on the open road for some distance to see what it'll do.

ratdude747 wrote

60 miles later... 11.5MPG.  It was 60 miles of mostly country roads and small town commuting though... so not a fair test?

And I thought my mid 14's was bad ouch!
Now this was with the 300 / T18 trans / 2.75 gear stock size tires and staying 65 MPH for 30 miles to work and sometimes 45 to 50 MPH stop & go for 30 miles home on back roads.

I now have a NP435 trans and added over drive and need to run a few tanks to see if over drive helped or hurt as I just got the truck back on the road.

I have started to look into what it will take to lean the YFA carb out with the metering rod.
When I rebuilt my carb a PO really made a mess of it, missing or wrong type (wood) screws and think they messed with the rod. The paper did not say what the setting should be for it but have since found on Youtube what it should be.
Could this be your issue also?
Dave ----

Gary Lewis wrote

However, let's be realistic on what to expect on MPG.  The best I've seen with any engine and an automatic is 14 MPG at 60 - 65 MPH.  That was a 351W I built with an RV cam, ported heads, and a 2150 2bbl carb.  And the gearing was 3.50 with a C6.  But you have a 300 six w/an AOD and 3.08 gearing.  At first blush you'd think much better MPG.  But if you are just tooling around town with stop and go driving probably not as the stopping and starting kills economy.  And you aren't getting into the top gears with those speeds.

For some good gas mileage data, look at Matthew's report [he has a 300 with C6]:

Search for: My 2019 Show Report + MPG Data

Put a pressure gauge on the fuel line to carb.

1986F150Six wrote

Gary Lewis wrote

However, let's be realistic on what to expect on MPG.  The best I've seen with any engine and an automatic is 14 MPG at 60 - 65 MPH.  That was a 351W I built with an RV cam, ported heads, and a 2150 2bbl carb.  And the gearing was 3.50 with a C6.  But you have a 300 six w/an AOD and 3.08 gearing.  At first blush you'd think much better MPG.  But if you are just tooling around town with stop and go driving probably not as the stopping and starting kills economy.  And you aren't getting into the top gears with those speeds.

For some good gas mileage data, look at Matthew's report [he has a 300 with C6]:

Search for: My 2019 Show Report + MPG Data

After taking my truck to work for the first time since the over drive install I can see it will be hard to do a comparison at 65MPH.
When in OD the truck moves along at 70-73 MPH real easy at under 2000 RPM (more like 1800 RPM) .
I have to work hard to keep it at 65 MPH in OD and was just over 1500 RPM
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

1986F150Six wrote

Gary Lewis wrote

However, let's be realistic on what to expect on MPG.  The best I've seen with any engine and an automatic is 14 MPG at 60 - 65 MPH.  That was a 351W I built with an RV cam, ported heads, and a 2150 2bbl carb.  And the gearing was 3.50 with a C6.  But you have a 300 six w/an AOD and 3.08 gearing.  At first blush you'd think much better MPG.  But if you are just tooling around town with stop and go driving probably not as the stopping and starting kills economy.  And you aren't getting into the top gears with those speeds.

For some good gas mileage data, look at Matthew's report [he has a 300 with C6]:

Search for: My 2019 Show Report + MPG Data

After taking my truck to work for the first time since the over drive install I can see it will be hard to do a comparison at 65MPH.
When in OD the truck moves along at 70-73 MPH real easy at under 2000 RPM (more like 1800 RPM) .
I have to work hard to keep it at 65 MPH in OD and was just over 1500 RPM
Dave ----

My truck with 3.08 rear and 4 speed manual OD turns just over 1800 RPMs @ 65 MPH.

My son's 1984 was "born" with 2.47 rear and 4 speed manual OD turned ~1450 RPMs @ 65 MPH and returned 26 mpg.

1986F150Six wrote

My son's 1984 was "born" with 2.47 rear and 4 speed manual OD turned ~1450 RPMs @ 65 MPH and returned 26 mpg.

And he had to downshift if he even saw a hill?  

Gary Lewis wrote

1986F150Six wrote

My son's 1984 was "born" with 2.47 rear and 4 speed manual OD turned ~1450 RPMs @ 65 MPH and returned 26 mpg.

And he had to downshift if he even saw a hill? 

Sometimes, even before!

No kidding, it would go to about 40 MPH in 1st and idled @ 8 MPH!

EGR valve came in awhile back. Installed it, no change in performance or fuel economy (got worse, but driving was mixed).

Seems that it can't stay in OD when cruise controlled ever... readjusted the TV cable, no change. My bottom end at highway speed is just not there and once it kicks down on a hill, it will only go back into OD if I kill cruise, even if I go downhill. Same issue that I've been fighting... although looking at how much gas it's having to give it to maintain speed, no wonder (and also no wonder my economy is so crappy). I can assure that when driving out of cruise I'm giving similar amounts of throttle.  

While re-adjusting the TV cable I ran a KOEO test to run down the throttle kicker motor... got a fault 63 during self test. Seems my TPS isn't being seen any more. Need to test to see if it's a sensor issue (doubt it, TPS was replaced not long ago), a wiring issue, or a DOA ECU issue. I also ought to test the MAP sensor; even though it's passing self tests, It's the one sensor/device I've not done a direct measurement test on yet. Reason being my "nice" multimeter that can measure frequency lives at work, and I'm too forgetful to remember to bring it home to test such.

Tested the MAP sensor... came up as dead. Replaced it... also came up as dead; turns out my backprobe jb was junk. Upon retest both MAP sensors seemed to be working (slightly different readings, but only about 6-8Hz different), but since I had a new sensor, I decided to run it. Also verified that TPS signal is making it to the ECU connector (0.7V @ pre-start throttle motor position).

Drove it some, no obvious changes. Did another KOEO test, now I'm getting code 22 (MAP out of range) in addition to 63 (TPS below threshold).

I'm thinking the replacement ECU is a brick... Were these ECUs known to be this picky/finicky?

Installed the old computer. Drove it around (no obvious changes or issues), did a KOEO test. No faults.

Noticed that the "new" ECU is missing screws and was poorly spray painted... I'm beginning to think that the only refurbishing the ECU received is the rattle can treatment... Considering seeking a warranty refund due to all the issues (TPS and MAP faults). Seeing if this helps, since I didn't find/fix the EGR and loose carb issues until after the ECU swap.

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Besides a float adjustment issue, are there any carb adjustments that could cause it to run too rich? When I rebuild the carb, I didn't replace or adjust the float... I don't think I measured the metering rod either. I'd think if the float was hanging open too long, I'd have found it by now. Just lookign for things I might have previously overlooked