Little Blue 82

Hmmmm, to many of us with Blue Flaresides…..

Is there any other Great color for a Flareside?

(apologies to Dave.  )

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Is there any other Great color for a Flareside?

(apologies to Dave.  )

The more I look at other flareside, blue just seems to pop out to me the most.

A green with tan interior flareside, 300 six 4 speed 4x4 I saw in tulsa is what started my love affair for the bullnoses. I ended up with exactly what I wanted, a blue one.

Ray,

I'll have the 3P paint code for you shortly by the way. I just asked them for it this morning along with the some other stuff as it wasn't provided with my paperwork.

Thanks Cory

I have color code 3G "Bright Regatta Blue Poly"
I will call this project "finished" while tranny fight went on, I took out the old Lund Visor and dusted it off, pained it and installed along with the Hadley Air Horns....

reamer wrote

I have color code 3G "Bright Regatta Blue Poly"
I will call this project "finished" while tranny fight went on, I took out the old Lund Visor and dusted it off, pained it and installed along with the Hadley Air Horns....

I like it. Lund visor looks tough.

Rembrant wrote

Ray,

I'll have the 3P paint code for you shortly by the way. I just asked them for it this morning along with the some other stuff as it wasn't provided with my paperwork.

Did you get it Cory?

So, today I finally swapped in the new heater core. Mornings are getting a little chilly now and I need my defroster.

I have the basic heater. Not too big of a job. However, I took everything under the dash pad out today to have a good look-see.

The air plenums were all busted from the previous owner breaking the tabs off where they click together. So I drilled a couple holes and screwed it all back together. Nice and tight now.

I need a cable that turns the hot/cold damper door under the hood side. The previous owner bought a new cable, but it was the wrong one. It was for the defroster damper door....so, I went ahead and i stalled that.

While under the dashpad, its a good time to lube the clutch pedal assembly. Mine was squeakin pretty bad. Problem solved.

Ray Cecil wrote

While under the dashpad...

How do you remove the dash pad anyway? I haven't done that yet, but need to...

Cory, I think one of the exploded drawings of the ductwork shows the dash pad and all the screws that hold it down.

Maybe this is another illustration Gary can put in the Interior folder?

Truck looks GREAT, BTW!  

Rembrant wrote

Ray Cecil wrote

While under the dashpad...

How do you remove the dash pad anyway? I haven't done that yet, but need to...

Its pretty simple. 3 screws on dash bezzle, 2 screws on radio bezzle, 4 screws in defrost vent, and 2 or 3 just above the glove box door. Then it slides right out.

Thanks Ray. I have to remove mine soon to get my A-pillar trim panels sorted out.

I think it is two above the glove box.  But the question is which two as there are something like six there.  I pulled Big Blue's and can figure that out later today.  But don't remove all of those six as they are holding other things in.  If I haven't reported back just loosen them and wiggle the pad to figure out which two are holding it in.

Unfortunately the MPC doesn't have an illustration that I can find which shows the screws.  If someone has found one, please let me know.

Yeah, I need new a-pillar covers. Mine are cracked.

Im going to get some SEM interior dye ordered sometime and dye all the panels the same color like factory. Im in various shades of blue right now.

Next big project is the wood in the bed. Going to remove what is there and make patterns. Then, Ill go make some on the sawmill.

After that I need to tackle the seat belt and ebrake lights. Not sure yet why they are staying on.

For your brake light look up under the lower edge of the dash board.

Make sure the little switch is screwed down.
The light comes on because with the parking brake pedal down the switch closes to ground.

If it's not tight, or not aligned with the top of the arm, the contacts won't be pushed open.

Jim - In '82 I don't think there was a switch on the parking brake pedal.  I can look in a bit to confirm it, but I think that switch happened more like in '85.

Here's the schematic for the 1981 brake warning light circuit, and the only thing that can bring it on is the "dual brake warning switch", aka proportioning valve.

Gary Lewis wrote

Jim - In '82 I don't think there was a switch on the parking brake pedal.  I can look in a bit to confirm it, but I think that switch happened more like in '85.

Here's the schematic for the 1981 brake warning light circuit, and the only thing that can bring it on is the "dual brake warning switch", aka proportioning valve.

Gary, I think you are right. I glanced at the ebrake assembly this weekend and didnt see a switch. The brake light wasnt on when I bought it. After I powerwashed and cleaned the engine bay it came on. I did take the wire off the prop valve, but I put it back on too. So.....hmmmm....sounds like I didnt do something right.

Seat belt light will get the bulb removed if I cant figure that out.

Well, the more you know...  

That's embarrassing.
I hate to offer bad advise.

So you're saying Ray doesn't have any Emergency Brake light, and instead his proportioning valve has faulted?

Ray, did you lose a line or something?