Eddy Myrtle

Rob, there are plenty of HEI modules with start retard, and they're cheap as chips.

Turbo guys use them too.

SMP LX-330 supposedly gives you 5*.
You would need to wire the ignition 'start' position to ground on pin #5

Thanks Jim, I'll do some research on that. $18 on Amazon sounds like a cheap fix. I'll try to fix the issue by adjusting my timing first though. Assuming of course that the issue is the timing...

If you already have a heat shield between starter and exhaust I think it would help.

If the starter is dragging I'd suggest a PMGR.
Not only do they seem to spin faster, their smaller size gives them more distance from that headpipe.

Sac79 wrote

Thanks Jim, I'll do some research on that. $18 on Amazon sounds like a cheap fix. I'll try to fix the issue by adjusting my timing first though. Assuming of course that the issue is the timing...

Rob, to test to see if timing is the issue... next time, when the slow crank issues reveals itself, quickly disable the coil wire and then turn the key as though to start it. If the engine spins at the normal speed [faster], then it was the timing.

Ah yes, thanks David. I haven't checked the timing yet or anything else since Saturday, but that will at least eliminate a dodgy starter...

Did you see my 14.7MPG? Only another 7 or so to get to yours...

You can and will!

Maybe if I only ever drive downhill... My setup is not exactly an economy orientated one. I'm super happy with around 15MPG with a few kinks still to smooth out.

Sac79 wrote

Maybe if I only ever drive downhill... My setup is not exactly an economy orientated one. I'm super happy with around 15MPG with a few kinks still to smooth out.

I am getting high 14's and mid 15's with mine and I have not done a thing to try and get it higher other than add over drive and no it did not go up or down on the 2 fill ups I have run so far.
Most of my driving was high way at 65 MPH before & after the over drive.
Dave ----

Dave, I'm sure once you get everything sorted and fine-tuned you'll getting better mileage with the OD. The only economy orientated part on my truck is my right foot... And now that I've satisfied my curiosity that around 15MPG is possible, I'll have to go back to seating those rings!

I finally checked my timing again with the light. More successful this time. I made more marks all the way across the balancer/damper and removed the cold air duct from the snorkel for a better line of sight.

Clear as day, 14 deg BTC or there about, in hindsight I should have marked the gauge better too. So I backed it off to about 10 or 11, again, I should have marked the gauge as well.

I then checked the 'starting speed' and it cranked up immediately, faster than it's ever done, at least since I've acquired it in '13!

So I proceeded to attempt to tune the carb with the vacuum gauge again. Vacuum dropped to around 16 with the timing change... So I had to dial it a bit richer and got it back up to 20. Maybe it was running too lean before anyway? The engine idles way smoother now, as in a lot less vibration and steadier, less 'rev waving'. I'll probably take it to the engine builder next week and have him check it over.

One question, fast idle, if I have a manual choke, is fast idle only active with the choke on?

Also, after thinking the same mechanic worked on my truck as BB with leaks at both ends of the rear driveshaft(through the splines I suspect, the pinion seals are dry), they now appear to be dissipating... Magically? The rear pinion and U-joints are dry and no evidence on the floor. The front had a quarter sized puddle/drop of ATF on the floor after a week, before it was more like a pancake size!

Still, I have the leaky pan gasket waiting for me...

Progress!  Well done!

Yes, fast idle only works when the choke is on, automatic or manual.

But I don't know why a leak would dry up if it is along the splines.  However, BB's leak through the splines is my fault, so I doubt that's the reason for your leak.

Gary Lewis wrote

But I don't know why a leak would dry up if it is along the splines.  However, BB's leak through the splines is my fault, so I doubt that's the reason for your leak.

 Yeah, and my leak is my fault... Not sure why it's drying up either, surely it's not the fluid level. Both the diff and TC was properly filled and neither has leaked more than a few ounces. But I'm pretty sure it's coming from the splines. I think I remember reading somewhere along BB's thread about applying grease to the splines. One of Jim's comments. Am I remembering that right? Might have been different splines. Anyway, no grease applied to my splines...

Oh, and thanks for clarifying the fast idle. I've been using it wrong. Turning off the choke immediately after startup or even before starting and expecting fast idle until I used throttle...

I looked for good illustrations for the fast idle mechanism but didn't find any.  So let me describe it....

The fast idle cam is stepped and the steps hold the throttle open by virtue of the throttle linkage hitting the steps, usually via a screw.  The cam is swung into action by the choke, but it cannot go under the screw until the throttle is opened.  So the choke nor the fast idle can come into play until the throttle is opened slightly.

Once the cam has been swung into play it is left there as the choke opens as the choke can only push it on, not pull it off.  So if you start the vehicle the proper way, meaning set the choke and blip the throttle, the choke and fast idle will be on.  However the choke can now come off, either as the engine warms or if the choke is manual by the cable being pushed.  But as long as the throttle isn't opened the fast idle cam will still be under the screw, holding the throttle open slightly.

So with your manual choke, if you'll pull the lever or knob all the way out and blip the throttle the fast idle cam will come under the throttle linkage.  You can then push the knob/lever in and the fast idle cam should stay in place holding the throttle slightly open - until you manually depress the throttle.

OK, thanks Gary, got it, I think. I'll pay closer attention to my actions next time I try a cold start-up. So far I've had to use more throttle to get it to start which probably negated the fast idle. But I've played with the choke after startup and noticed the fast idle coming on. So in theory I could activate the fast idle at any time by pulling/activating the choke and blipping the throttle? I could then deactivate the choke immediately and the fast idle should stay on until I blip the throttle again?

Yes, you are correct - assuming your choke is set up properly.

OK, some updates.

I went by the engine builder again a few weeks ago. We first retarded the timing a bit more to about 8-9*, then he tuned the idle mixture using the timing light which was equipped with a digital rev gauge. Idle speed set at 640Rpm. I think the timing should probably go back to about 10* though, as I've noticed a slight(barely noticeable) stutter under mild acceleration in 4th.

Gary - I investigated the fast idle and it appears to be tied directly to the choke. It does appear to be as designed, not sure why it is different from how you described it. I adjusted it and it now works well, but as I say only with the choke, though it has a nice range from about 1400Rpm with the choke fully engaged to about 800Rpm before it's fully open.

I also added some goodies recently - I'll post pictures later.

And then yesterday I started addressing leaks. First the coolant leak, which required draining a little(I used a transfer pump instead) and then attempting to seal the plug on the thermostat housing. Hopefully I was successful and that was the only leak...

And then the oil pan... Nightmare! Started bad with a seal that did not want to break. By looking at the gasket pieces, it appears it only really leaked through the bolt holes as the inner portion of the gasket was soaked and the outer edge dry... Anyway, got the pan loose, gaskets off, surfaces clean and then the real nightmare started!

I was having a bear of a time getting the new seal to stay in place and then to top it off I dropped one of those retainer pins in the pan!

Quit for the day last night and got some more supplies this morning. A retrieval tool from Walmart did the trick with the pin, and some Gasket sealer held the gasket in place. Unfortunately I had forgot to clean the RTV from the corners before throwing in the towel last night, so with RTV on top of RTV(I couldn't remove it from the seal) I'll probably be doing this job again, hopefully not. All done up now and I'll test everything this afternoon.

Progress is good !  

Rob - Here's hoping that the RTV on RTV holds.  I'll bet it will.  

On the fast idle, I probably did a poor job of 'splaining.  The fast idle is pushed on by the choke, but it comes off with gravity.  So as the choke comes off so should the fast idle - but only after the tension is taken off it from the throttle return spring.

So if you open the throttle with the engine cold the choke and fast idle will set.  And when you release the throttle the fast idle is held captive until you open the throttle again and take the pressure off.  Then, if the choke has opened some, the fast idle cam will drop down and you'll have less fast idle.