Dad's Truck Build
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Re: Dad's Truck Build
 
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So, Gary, tell us what you do in your spare time?
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Re: Dad's Truck Build
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I drink coffee, as I'm doing now, and otherwise hang out with my bride of almost 50 years. I am quite active in our church. And I have a small web site that gets a bit of attention here and there.
Oh wait! You were being facetious! 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Re: Dad's Truck Build
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Gee, that sounds about right, I still haven't figured out how I had time to go to work.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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Well, this may have been the penultimate day for this chapter of Dad's truck's build. I have everything done save for dropping the cab back down and bolting it on, and I might get that done on Sunday afternoon. (Tomorrow I'm judging a high school debate tournament.)
But, let's review what I did today. I was short one nut to attach the transmission mount to the crossmember. But there's not much reason to do one little nut, so I powder coated two nuts, the bracket and bolts for the shift linkage, the lever and nut for the shift linkage, and the bolts to hold the bottom of the engine plate to the tranny. These things:  Oh, and I should point out that the grommet is not new. I removed it, cleaned it with soap and water, and then media-blasted it. Turned out pretty nice. Then I put all of those things on. Here's a shot of the linkage bracket and shift lever installed. But note that I haven't painted the shaft yet. That's because I'm not sure whether the shift lever goes up or down, but I'm pretty sure it is up. Anyway, I don't want to torque the lever down until I know, and then I'll paint the shaft.  And, for grins, here's a close up showing the lever and the casting number on the tranny:  But, I have a piece missing - the inspection cover for the tranny/torque converter. It is apparently unique to the E4OD as the one for the C6 doesn't come close to fitting. Here's where it goes, and those two bolts are two of the ones I powder coated today. So, does anyone have an extra of these as well as the screws that go with it?  Last, I touched up all the fasteners I've installed recently. So now the cab is ready to go back on and the truck will be put away for a long summer's nap. 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I rationalize it this way: Dad's truck is a loooooong, slow slog when every part has to be blasted and coated. I can only "slog" for a limited period of time, so I set a goal and work toward that goal. And when I achieve it I need to take a break.
Big Blue is that break, although EFI'ing him is a massive undertaking in and of itself. So, expect to see something pop up on the Big Blue channel soon.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gary, I think you have the lever for the cable shifter on that transmission. The one that came out of Big Ugly (parts truck) had a lever that pointed down and had a grommet for the rod to snap into. Here is a top view and you can see the lever on the side pointing down.
 No, I don't have and extra E4OD cover plate.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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Houston - We have a problem. The cab hits the transfer case.
In the pic below you can see that it hits at the red oval, and almost does at the orange oval. And this is with the body mounts just snugged down hand-tight.
The problem appears to be due to the extra length of the E4OD, which puts the transfer case back behind the bump-up in the floor that was apparently put there to clear the driveline. Options that I've thought of are:
But, what ideas do you have? Which of my ideas are good and which are bad.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Yeah, options #1 and 2 are the best.
But lowering the crossmember would be similar to #2. However, it wouldn't be all that easy since the left side sits on the lower lip of the frame. So it would have to go under the frame, which means the weight is supported by the bolt instead of the whole end of the crossmember. And then you'd have to put spacers/washers between the gusset and the crossmember. Plus, I'd have to re-drill the holes on the passenger's side.  Also, if the 208 or 1345 is smaller then I may raise the cab again to pull the 1356. And I could temporarily install the 208 and lower the cab to find out if it fits for sure. 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Bummer!
It looks like it’s hitting the square tab on top of the case, and the large bolt boss is almost hitting. The BW1435 does not have the square tab, and the bolt bosses look a little bit less pronounced, so there is a sporting chance at least. The NP 208 is a smaller transfer case, but mounting circle does not look any smaller, and it has tall bosses also. The Ford version has a vent hose in that area. It probably wouldn’t matter but you might need a 90* hose fitting to keep it from pinching. I think any case you put there is going to be tight. BW1356   BW1345    NP208   I kind of like idea #2 just because you might be able to purchase a bit of actual clearance instead of just not hitting. As the cab mounts settle over time the problem may come back if it just barely clears. It would be nice to see a good inch if possible. The shim idea is basically a tiny body lift. I think I would favor this over modifying the cab floor, but it wouldn’t be my first choice. This in conjunction with a different transfer case might get you “there” if the transmission mount cannot be lowered at all. Another point is that tab on the 1356... does it do anything? Or can it be trimmed off. There is s similar tab on the ZF5 that needs removed when installing a Banks Sidewinder on the IDI. It’s something to consider along with the other two transfer cases. Last thought, you said the C channel height of the F150 was the same under the cab right? Just double checking that this dimension is the same as Huck’s and that a smaller “C” isn’t lifting the back end higher than it should be.
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD
STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2 |
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This post was updated on .
Yep. That's one of the reasons Ford changed the floorpan in '89. I doubt they'll be significant, if even large enough to measure by hand. There's only 1 other factory mount system that I know of (the type on my Bronco), but I don't think it's significantly shorter:   That's probably my least-favorite, for MANY reasons. This being near the top:  A body lift is what I did on Frank's '75 Bronco, and it worked well. To test it, I just used scraps of 2x4. But eventually, they were replaced by actual plastic body lift pucks (cut down to minimize the lift). If your lift height does NOT approach the diameter of the body mounts, it will probably be cheap, easy, & safe. That's one more reason I prefer polyurethane mounts - they don't settle or allow as much movement as rubber. My t-case is VERY close (due to clocking), but it has never hit because the body & trans mounts are poly.  The engine mounts will be, soon... Yes, for all '80-96/7 FS Ford trucks. |
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Guys - Thanks for the responses, suggestions, pictures, etc. Apparently this is a bit disconcerting to me as I had to take a Tagamet before drinking coffee this morning.
 As I think about how to check things out it appears to me that the cab has to come off. It only takes removing the four bottom mounts and placing the carpeted 2x4's to make that happen, so I think I will. Then if I want to raise the back of the tranny to explore a shorter mount I can, where as now it would lift the cab. And, that will facilitate measuring - if not installing the 208 to find out for sure. And here are some responses to your suggestions/questions: Transfer Case: With the cab up I'm going to see if there is an easy, slam dunk way to measure the t-cases. If not I think I'll pull the 1356 and install the 208, and drop the cab back. Or, maybe measure the height of the 1356 off the floor and do the same with the 208. But, I'm not yet sure how to measure the in-place 1345 on Big Blue. We shall see.Tranny Mounts: The other day I pulled out all the different tranny crossmembers I have and compared them. Turns out they all put the tranny at essentially the same height. In fact, several of them use the same mount. So changing the crossmember isn't going to help. But, if there was a way to create a shorter mount then that might work.Modify The Floor: That's my least-favorite approach, especially now that I've read through that TSB.
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This post was updated on .
Mid-day report:
I marked the bottom of the cab with a white pencil where the 1356 hits, and then figured out where that is inside - right at the back edge of the bump-up.  And here's a shot of the worst offender - a tab that could be cut off. But it would still leave the bolt bosses touching some, so something else is needed.  Then I lifted the cab, took pics of the protrusions on the t-case, and then pulled it and installed the 207. Dropped (read SLOWLY LOWERED) the cab, and the 208 hits about as badly. The issue is that the 208 has a bump in the casting dead center, and the cab has a bump down in the floor dead center.  Then I slid under Big Blue and looked the 1345 over. There's a REMOTE chance that it'll work. The bumps in the casting are splayed much like the 1356's, which keeps them away from the center bump down in the floor. So I'm considering pulling the 1345 out of Big Blue to see.  But, if I could drop the tranny a bit on the mount, which is close to 20" in front of the bumps on the t-cases, then we might get there. Also, I called and talked to John, my paint/body man. He doesn't like the idea of cutting a section of the floor out of another cab and welding it into Dad's floor to move the bump-up back 2". Nor do I. But, it could be done. And, while a body lift would work, he reminded me that then there are problems getting the bumpers to fit correctly. More later.........
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Maybe so 'cause I'm about to cry.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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