Best alternator option?

You are running the 130A 3G arent you?

I think I remember you saying that when I did my post while back about trying to find a 95A small case with the wide ear spacing used on the I6 and diesel engines that apparently doesnt exist anymore.

More I think about it, the more I am just thinking about doing like you just run one belt on a 130A 3G and just get the delay regulator and tighten the belt like a tight rope and hope for the best even though I never could produce more than 100A with a single belt but maybe I could considering the belt wrap is 180* worth of pulley which does help with bite better so than one that is only 90* worth of the pulley.

Id be interested in seeing that article if you happen to stumble across it.

I am not against going with a dual belt setup but I have to see how I could do it as I have a dealer A/C which as far as I know has a different belt setup than a factory A/C setup.

Don't tighten like that.
There's no reason to trash the bearings.

Just start the truck within 10 seconds of turning the key to 'run', or click it back to off.

Well I will have to see I know with snipers you have to way 2 to 3 seconds before cranking for fuel prime.  Some claim with a proper tune you dont have to wait 2 to 3 seconds but the prime is always 2 to 3 seconds as that is boot up time for the ECU.

On the tight rope aspect I just mean tight to where there is no deflection.  Normally on stock applications I do around 1/4 to 5/16 inch deflection but when I go tight rope tight I pull till there is no kind of deflection in the belt.

If this computer can do all this stuff, why not have IT make the exciter connection?
Then the clock won't be ticking until the fi system is up to pressure.

Maybe I'm just too stupid to realize it's limitations...

I dont honestly know everything its capable of doing I didnt know the base like sniper was capable of even being used to cut the AC on wot.  But it does I thought that was only a feature of the high dollar terminator.  I also found out you can use the basic sniper to trigger nitrous even.

I would have to look but its quite possible that there is something in there that can be switched to provide a signal when running.  Draw back is I would need a relay as anything the sniper controls is only on the 5v scale to trigger relays and not to provide actual battery voltage.

That may be enough to 'tickle' the alternator into charging.
Once it gets going it bootstraps itself.

Stator voltage is only around 7

It might be.  I just will give it a try like it is and then when I go and have the custom tune put in I will see, I have seen lots of people state with a proper custom tune you really dont need to wait for prime.  But in the manual it states cranking without waiting for prime will result in a TBI like spin over where the engine will crank a bit then start.  With prime it will fire off like a carb with one hit of the throttle.

Honestly I think I'm more uncertain now than ever. I was happily going to purchase the 130 amp unit that Gary suggested from DB Electric, but now I'm tempted to upgrade to the 170 amp unit from Bronco Graveyard. They seem to think that you can get by with just a slightly tighter belt. Do you guys believe them?

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/High-Output-Alternator-170-Amp-V-groove-Pulley/productinfo/38612/

No, no I don't.
But like ive said to Rusty multiple times 'There's no need to abuse your bearings like that'.

Why do you feel you need the extra 40A?
Why do you want to spend more money for capacity you don't need and can't use?

Edit: The regular 130 will push 160 for a short while before the windings and diode board have a meltdown.
But nothing anyone does to a 3G is going to push more cooling air through it.

Gary has a winch a compressor and a 3000W inverter with 6,000W surge.
And he's using a 130 I pulled out of.... I forget, but it was too new to junk.

I'm with Jim.  From what I've read a single vee belt will only support generating ~90 amps.  You can use a slow-start regulator, but that will just keep the belt from chirping on startup.  If it ever tries to go full-tilt the belt will probably scream, and if you continue it'll melt and fail.

There you go using logic again...

I'm going to order the 130 amp and leave my belt and pulley alone. If I get this one, do I need to buy anything else or upgrade any of the battery cables?

https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/alternator-3-8-mustang-94-95-96-97-98-99-00-thunderbird-cougar-94-97.html

Also, will I be able to keep my ammeter (not that it really matters that much)?

I've been buying the application for '90-'94 Continental, and '91-'93 Taurus 3.8l.

These come with the LRC regulator.
I'm pretty sure Gary's scans of the documentation show the exact part number.

Jim - I don't think we have the part numbers.  At least not where I can find them.  But, I've purchased from Quick Start and here's their listings.  But I don't see anything more than a 2.5 second delay.

So perhaps we need to compile a part number list and put it on the alternator page.

I can give you the three LRC regulators I know.

But I mean to say DB's part number for the $70 alternator that comes with LRC.

If I know myself I probably put the old one away in DB's box to save for core.
(I hate having to go back, to get my money)

So I'll look for that box and find their number.

I'm confused by the mention of the Taurus version.

https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/alternator-3-8-3-8l-taurus-sable-94-95-windstar-95.html 

It seems like it has a different case size. Why is that one better than the Mustang unit that Gary recommended? I can live without the ammeter, so I'd probably just go the road more traveled with the Mustang version for the upgrade if an LRC is going to complicate it.

What do you guys think of going with the Painless harness for $75? I could probably find a Treasure Yard harness, but I just don't feel like it...

I'm getting a mechanic to do it, but he's letting me buy the parts. Do I need anything other than the alternator and the harness?

As always, thanks!
LB

It depends on the mount you have.  it seems for our trucks you need the 8 1/4" ear to ear spacing which is the large case.  It appears there was a small case 95A 3G that had the 8 1/4" wide ear spacing at one time but you cant find them anymore.

It is believed you can run the narrower ear spacing 3G which is found in both large and small case outputs.  The belief is that you might not be able to swing the 3G far enough in to get a stock belt on with the narrower spacing on the ears.

Me personally I am tempted to just get the small case 95A 3G alternator locally and try to make it work with the OE belt.  If it appears I can I will update those on here that should be fine with a 95A 3G.

But still, when you run the proper size fuse even for a 95A 3G you still will exceed the grip of a V belt before the fuse blows.  Unless you go with a undersized fuse so it will blow before your belt slips.

Painless is a good wiring company, pricy but good.

Another option is American Auto Wire they offer a charge kit that comes with 6ga charge cable and a couple mega fuses.

You can get all the parts for $30-35. Since the Painless is a 'kit' in itself, why pay double? I have repeatedly posted each and every part as a list (with links) to this forum. But, as you know, eBay and Amazon listings change like the weather. And I don't feel like chasing them down this evening. Have a look. Note the part numbers and Google them yourself. As for Taurus VS Mustang applications, IDK. I bought a 130A LRC alternator from DB recently, and posted a photo of the label on the box. Gary has the spec chart posted here on the website. Me? If I KNOW something works, and works well, I go with it for $70 delivered.