Another round of projects.

Hydro testing is a lot safer.
Because the fluid is incompressible there is no heave behind it if something lets go.

I have seen the aftermath of a 120 laydown gallon shop compressor explosion.
Some of the concrete block wall was 40-50' across the parking lot.
Thankfully the tank peeled open, there was no shrapnel and no major injuries.

Wow!  That's quite the compressor.  And that's a lot of air.  Yes, it should keep up with a sandblaster.  

As for testing a tank with grease, I would never have thought of that, but it is a good idea.  Ingenious!

Grease guns develop quite a bit of pressure in metered little bursts.

I've put a zerk in a pipe plug to force out a pilot bushing before.

My preferred method for pilot bushing removal is packing wet paper towels in, wrap electric tape around a 1/2 inch extension to fit the i.d. of the bushing tightly, and a 2 lb hammer to smack the extension into the towels.  It acts like a hydraulic cylinder pusing the bushing out.  Usually takes a few tries packing more paper towel in to fill the void behind the bushing.

 I tried grease before with a hammer, but typically end up coated.  With the wet paper towels it is a much easier cleanup.

I've heard people use Wonder Bread too.
Anything that won't squirt out in your face.  

Your compressor sounds great.
I like that engine. You're right it is very much in keeping with the rest of it.

You are just knocking projects out one after the other!  

The engine was pulled from the 314 John Deere mower seen in the background in the compressor video.    I had to swap oil pans from the original compressor motor to match the mounts on the air compressor tank.  I have had several cub cadets and a few John Deere with the same or similar motors.  They are really pretty good ones.  This is the k321.  

Honestly, I am starting to get excited about having this thing setup to start using.  Between the welder and the compressor I suspect I have a few bigger projects I am going to start knocking out.  I need to cut the wedge off my firewood machine and make a few minor changes before I get going on firewood again in the next few weeks.  That will probably be the first major project.

I keep getting little projects done.  The air compressor got moved over to the trailer.  I set the compressor just far enough to the back of the trailer to clear the arc the side cover swings through.  I used a couple of pieces of angle iron below the trailer grating with bolts through the base frame of the compressor.   4 half inch bolts should hold it pretty well.  I suspect the trailer will rarely leave the property.  I also threw together a quick rack for the welding leads that bolts down a similar way as well.  I went ahead and picked up a "used" battery from the local Walmart.  They put out of date brand new batteries at a reduced price with a reduced warranty occasionally.  I have had pretty good luck with them so I always try to get them for projects like this.  I got the battery positioned and am still deciding how I want to hold it in place.  Figured out mounting a start solenoid, ignition switch, and start switch for the compressor and ran the wires with crimp connectors after removing the insulation from the connectors and double layered heat shrinking.  Basically, I spent the last couple days worth of free time doing lots of little things that take a lot of time.  

When I quit this evening I had the compressor starting by the switch, and just using a 5 gallon fuel can on the trailer.  The charging system on the compressor is functional now and keeps the battery topped off when the compressor runs.   Been using the welder every chance I think of something I need to weld.  It is a big upgrade from the old buzzbox and it is even better than the inverter welder I have, plus the inverter welder tops out at 130 amps (90 amps on a normal circuit), but this thing has the ability to run a lot more amps.  I may have to borrow a clamp on amp meter to see what it is putting out.  

Not much in the way of pictures with this update since it is mostly all boring work anyway.

Looking great!  All the little details are what make it functional.  Well done!  Or doing?  

Nice! Going to be a great rig!

That looks like a very handy setup you have now!
Maybe some weatherproof box to hold a hood, gloves, chipping hammer and brush?

Having an outlet lets you run whatever grinder or drill you might need, and the compressor will let you gouge.
I bought a cheap needle scaler at Horrid Fate last year. It is really a game changer for me.

I had hoped to spend a few hours on the project today.  Not looking promising to do much with the rain on the radar at the moment.  I was hoping to pull the welder over beside the firewood machine today and try air arcing the splitting wedge apart.  When the machine was built a year or so ago it didn't have enough angle on the wedge top plate and has since bent enough to need redone.  Not sure if anyone is interested in pictures of former projects like that machine, but I will put a few on here as the work gets done to the wedge.








I also am putting a few pictures of various projects I have done the last couple years.  If anyone wants more info you just have to let me know.  


Dump trailer I put together from junk I had accumulated.


Hydraulic winch with skid steer quick attach plate and 3 point tractor hitch.









Few projects I did for the local ag dealer.







A front end I cut off a truck and welded together for a Christmas present for my father in-law.

Just a few other project since I was stuck inside until the rain lets up a bit.

I actually learned about a pneumatic chisel type chipper at the start of building the firewood machine from a buddy and have since bought 3...

There is no going back to using a chipping hammer unless there is no air available to run it.  I just bought used ones off eBay, Texas pneumatic brand.  

The welder has a 110 volt DC plug that is able to power grinders and drills.  (Brush, single speed motors are usually safe for DC power).  I do wish I had a big enough ac power to run my cheapo plasma cutter, but that is not likely to happen anytime soon.  I have been considering installing a toolbox on the trailer.  I have enough room left on the trailer I can toss a ibc tote on to go get a load of used motor oil if I want.  I have a small air driven pump the compressor will be handy for that.

Does your firewood conveyer dump directly into IBC totes for transport?

I don't know much about specialist pneumatic welding tools.
I picked up a $20 needle scaler and realized how well it knocks slag off long after using it for chipping rust and loose paint.
I'm also not covered in jagged wire bristles all the time.  

Wallowed out holes in farm equipment has me wishing Brian Blocc was showing more equipment upgrades and not another autopsy on Lynn's Audi.
Its interesting to see what comes through his machine shop.
He certainly has some massive tools that can handle jobs bigger than most shops.

IDIBronco wrote

The welder has a 110 volt DC plug that is able to power grinders and drills.  (Brush, single speed motors are usually safe for DC power).  I do wish I had a big enough ac power to run my cheapo plasma cutter.

  Yes sorry, DC.
But you got the idea from my mention of brushed universal power tools.

Costs on IGBT solar grid connectors are getting less and less.
As small installations start to upgrade we will see them on the surplus market in the 10MW range.

The conveyor hasn't typically dumped into the ibc cages, but that is a change in business model that is About to happen.  I have always stacked in the cages before this year as I know 3 cages the way I stack are the same as a cord.  I have spot checked the amount several times and it is right on, but the past few years I have been working hard to make improvements that keep my hands off more.  Each time I touch the wood I feel like it is a waste.   I have a deal worked out to get 100 more Ibc totes with tanks over text next few weeks in trade for split wood.  I intend to not modify those cages and just dump the wood in the top of the cages and not stack.  Even if I give away a bit more wood I will be money ahead in time.  

Usually I dump from the conveyor into a truck bed trailer with sides, the little dump trailer I built, or directly into the dump truck.  If I where stacking in the cages (which have one side cut out) I would tilt the dump truck up so the wood slides to the back (doors closed) and pick the wood off the back of the truck so I do not have to bend over and pick it up off the ground.  As an added bonus the entire truck load will move to the rear to be picked up and stacked without having to get on the truck.  I can load 2 full cords of wood on a 7 x 14 dump trailer in about 10 minutes with the cages stacked and only have to pick up maybe 30 sticks of wood that flip off the side.  

I don't really sell enough wood to make much profit, but the firewood keeps paying for the upgrades I make and gives me a little project money.  

Last year I got the dump truck lined out and built the new firewood machine with some help from a buddy who is a retired welder.  I have enough of a setup now I could probably fall back on firewood at any time if I needed to.  The machine takes a whole log and cuts it, splits it, and moves it away from the splitter onto a pile, or truck.  It isn't a lot faster overall from efficiently working with my old method, but I can get so much more done alone now and when I am done I don't feel like I have abused my back and shoulders.  Plus I can move dump truck/trailer length logs easily the area I split more efficiently and handle the logs with the skid steer.  Just all about making work efficient changes.

I am not a welder, machinist, or mechanic...  BUT I do fix a lot of things doing welding, machining, and mechanic work.  We have a mill, lathe, and a few other machines in the shop here.  I mainly got started by telling a buddy (who worked at the ag dealer) I could fix an issue for half the cost in a couple weeks on his tractor that the parts where going to cost 2200 plus and had a 2 month wait time.  I have gotten a few additional axles and a few other odd jobs to fix since.  Not a full time thing, but definitely a good side gig.

Started trying to air carbon arc the wedge off this afternoon.  Really the first time using a carbon torch like this.  I can see it will be a useful skill.  I have the setup on loan from a buddy.  The welder and air compressor seem to function pretty well.  I haven't discussed my wife's plan for tomorrow, but weather permitting I am hoping to completely cut the wedge top off tomorrow and get the changes made.  Hopefully I can get the top plate cleaned up, the uprights ground clean, and possibly make the adjustment and tack stuff back up.  Possibly start welding it all fully back in.

Man, that is some serious metal!  I'm impressed that you can cut it.  

I've never been around when people cut things like that.  I've just seen the aftermath.  For instance, when I worked for the railroad I saw where a guy had cut a knuckle off a box car.  The draw bar was probably 6" wide and 8" tall and the surface where he cut it looked like he'd used a saw, but the edges showed the slag from a torch.  

Anyway, I'm impressed that you can do that.  And it sounds like you have a good system with the firewood.  Well done!

I had good intentions after the rain passed of having some big progress.  I drug out the air line.  Laid out the welder leads.  Topped the fluids up in the compressor and welder.  Got everything cranked up and stared to carefully gouge new bevels into the top plate to remove it and set it up for being welded back in.  I got 3 carbon rods into the bevel and my air supply diminished.  I went to investigate and found I only had 35 psi tank pressure.  Everything looked ok at first glance.  With ear plugs in, the compressor at full tilt, and welder humming along beside it I really couldn't hear any problem.  So I shut the welder off then I could hear the compressor sounded different.  The issue was the cooling transfer copper tube that runs between the first and second stages had cracked and broke off right past the flare nut fitting.  I thought no big deal go dig out my handy dandy flare kit, trim the end of the copper line square, and just flare a new end on.  

No dice.  My kit only goes to 5/8 inch.  The air line is 3/4 inch.  I called all my local people I could think of and everyone basically had comparable kits.  So several hours later I figured I was beat for the day and rolled all the lines up and headed for the house.  I looked online and can get a flare line kit in a few days delivered.  I have some time tomorrow I will probably just set something up to do the flare.  Probably drill an appropriate size hole through some 1 inch plate, counter sink the hole "enough" to get a small flare lip, and notch the side of the hole to clamp.  Maybe drill a hole through the notch for a bolt to clamp down and see what it will do.  I can probably just about take it out, slide the nut on, clamp it in the block and use a ball pein hammer to work the copper lip in enough that the nut will flare the copper onto the fitting enough to seal.  Not perfect, but might work.  

An additional question ...

The copper tube between the stages has lots of pressed steel cooling fins slid over it, most have corroded and fallen off.  Does anyone know a vendor for just the cooling fins?  I have looked and asked some places locally, but no one really had any ideas.  I suspect something like a baseboard heater might have some useable heat transfer fins.  I might have to check the back storage box as I seem to remember that I put a good compressor with a busted flywheel at the back.  Perhaps I can harvest a transfer tube from it an tweak the bends to fit.

More tomorrow.

It is a bummer when plans fall through like that.  But at least it is a fairly simple fix - assuming your homemade flaring tool works like it should.

I don't know of a source of the fins, but I think you are right that baseboard heaters have them.  Or maybe your other compressor does?  Good luck!

It does suck about that flare

Base board fin dose make a good compressed air cooler

Yes mine is after the tank but some put it between compressor and tank.

Dave ----