81 F100 flare side custom with 300 six & T18

Steve83 wrote

FuzzFace2 wrote

...I think they will need a coat of silver paint to look good.

Have you considered galvanizing spray instead of paint?  I've used Rustoleum's cold spray on a few things, but it seems to rub off (not necessarily THROUGH to the metal below) very easily.  When I was an industrial electrician's apprentice, we used a lot of hot galvanizing spray immediately after torching or welding, but it's not "cosmetically-appealing".   I'm not sure anything you can apply at home will stand up to the abrasion that those chains endure.

FuzzFace2 wrote

...bike tire tube to cover the chain...

That makes the chains' color seem moot.  Have you considered the later plastic-covered cables?

I just want the chains & latch to look good when I first get the truck on the road. It would be nice if the looked good over time but its a truck and will be used as one.
They just have to look better than this!

As for plastic cables I really don't see how you could use them and the latch with out some goofy looking cable clamps. I also don't know how well they would flex / fold when the gate is closed & latched.
I think paint and bike tube will work good and look good too.
Besides I am sure I got the paint, the tube is a few bucks and it looks factory stock.
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

I just want the chains & latch to look good when I first get the truck on the road. It would be nice if the looked good over time...

Then I'd look at new chain.  The modern galvanizing is much-better than it was in the 70s.  If you plan out the cut/weld location, it will be hidden inside the latch.

FuzzFace2 wrote

As for plastic cables...

Not plastic cables - plastic-COATED galvanized steel aircraft-type cable; the factory ones used on later trucks.

FuzzFace2 wrote

...them and the latch...

I totally forgot that the latches were on the chains.  You're right - cables probably won't work.

FuzzFace2 wrote

I also don't know how well they would flex / fold when the gate is closed & latched.

They flex fine on '78-96 Broncos & ~90-up F150s (#17 in the diagram).

The chain is not the type you can get in any store that I have seen.

It is also welded from the bolt to the hook so you would need to make cuts and re-weld or use a repair link and I don't like the look of the link.

LMC does sell new chains / latch assy. for $30 and chrome for $40. They also sell 2 chain covers for $6.
I am sure I can buy a bike tube for less than that and have enough to do more than 2 chains.
I have spent way too much on this project and need to cut back on the $$ where I can.

I had the chain assy. in Evap-O-Rust over night. I pulled them out a little bit ago, rinsed off and they look pretty good. I hit them with silver Rustoleum spray paint and they look good enough to me.
I may even have a tube some place but if not will pick one up to cover the chains.
Dave ----

Don't forget to put a hole in the bottom of the bike tube to let it drain when it rains.

Gary Lewis wrote

Don't forget to put a hole in the bottom of the bike tube to let it drain when it rains.

Never gave that a thought
Thanks
Dave ----

Working a grommet, even a rubber one if not a brass one, into the hole would both look finished as well as keep the hole open.

Dave, the tailgate chains that I picked up for my flareside bed look about like yours. I know they were originally galvanized (and most/all of that is gone), but I also know my dad’s ‘66 flareside chains just had natural patina on them from being used. It was daily driven and the constant movement and handling/skin oil made sure they were never orange and powdery. If/when I ever get around to using that bed I was just going to clean the chains up with a wire wheel, apply rust neutralizer, then rub them down with WD40 and see how they do with use and handling. I don’t really want chrome or stainless shininess, and I feel like the plastic covers just promote more corrosion. It also stops the little clank and chink sounds that are a requisite part of the old flareside driving experience 😉

Gary Lewis wrote

Working a grommet, even a rubber one if not a brass one, into the hole would both look finished as well as keep the hole open.

I was thinking before I put the tube covering on the chains I would use one of my hole punches to put the hole in it. If I fold the tube over and had the punch on half the edge it would make a complete hole when installed.

If I was to put a brass grommet on it may hit the body and mark it, Not good!

Ford F834 wrote

Dave, the tailgate chains that I picked up for my flareside bed look about like yours. I know they were originally galvanized (and most/all of that is gone), but I also know my dad’s ‘66 flareside chains just had natural patina on them from being used. It was daily driven and the constant movement and handling/skin oil made sure they were never orange and powdery. If/when I ever get around to using that bed I was just going to clean the chains up with a wire wheel, apply rust neutralizer, then rub them down with WD40 and see how they do with use and handling. I don’t really want chrome or stainless shininess, and I feel like the plastic covers just promote more corrosion. It also stops the little clank and chink sounds that are a requisite part of the old flare side driving experience.

The Evap-O-Rust dii a good job of getting the rust off.
Quick scrubbing & rinse and they were not bad. The silver paint was to make them look better on a freshly painted truck.

I don't want the stainless or chrome either.
As for the chain noise of an old flare side driving experience for now saving the paint is top on my mind ;)
Dave ----

The HVAC vacuum can fiber glass coating was dry so a little 400 sanding and hit it with black paint.
Did this late in the day so was not dry to install just yet.
I will have to get pictures of the chains & vacuum can.
Dave ----

"Can" and "fiberglass"?  I've seen the 303 vacuum can and the ball, but one with a fiberglass coating I've not seen.  Now I'm curious.  Where are the pics????  

Gary Lewis wrote

"Can" and "fiberglass"?  I've seen the 303 vacuum can and the ball, but one with a fiberglass coating I've not seen.  Now I'm curious.  Where are the pics????  

I hope to get pictures this weekend.
Been fur kid sitting, 3 dogs & 4 cats, and a helper comes in when I am at work so only been doing little things to the truck.

I picked up the bike tube for the gate chain $4.70+ tax. At 26" I should have a lot left over where I think the LMC ones where $6+ for 2 short pieces.
When in Walmart for the bike tube I picked up a cheap $30 seat cover. Not what I wanted but will do for now.
Dave ----

Gary Lewis wrote

"Can" and "fiberglass"?  I've seen the 303 vacuum can and the ball, but one with a fiberglass coating I've not seen.  Now I'm curious.  Where are the pics????  

To do the repair I pulled the bracket off.
This is after 2 glass coatings & paint sorry no before pictures.
About the 11:00 is where I added the wire to fill the gap.

Hole was at 7:00

This was the bottom when it was mounted in the truck. The mount was installed off from where it was.
I only did the glass where the  pin holes were.


Chains after Evap-O Rust and painting.

With the rubber bike tube installed.

And yes I used a hole punch and added a hole in the middle of the cover.
Dave ----

Bike tube size was 26" x 1 1/4" - 1 3/8" wide
Hade enough to do 2 sets (4) of chains for under $5
Dave ----

Looking good!

I think I could have sent you one of those w/o rust.  But, that one shouldn't rust any more.  

Chains look good as well.  Good progress.

Gary Lewis wrote

I think I could have sent you one of those w/o rust.  But, that one shouldn't rust any more.  

Chains look good as well.  Good progress.

Back in the day if you had a leaking fuel tank and want a fast cheap fix was to pull the tank clean the outside good and fiber glass it, let it dry a few days and you were good to go.

I figured if it worked on fuel takes it would work on a vacuum tank.
I did not coat the whole vacuum tank just a little past the pin holes. I wanted to keep the look of a stock factory can and the glass rosin would not have done that and why it is still close to the bottomand cant be seen.
It is funny that it rusted on the bottom and not have water in it and it looked to be from the inside out.

I am thinking it must have been leaking before I got it as I could not get the HVAC to work right, no or low vacuum. I installed the can last night so when I run it again I will check the HVAC system to see if it is now working with the can in place.

I did post some place but if someone is having trouble finding a vacuum leak to check this can for leaks also.
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

 Always a but ..... the compressor does not come with hose manifolds. I spent a few hours with the parts CD and found the part numbers
 suction E1AZ 19E583-A
 discharge E1AZ 19E582-A Think they come with the bolts & gaskets.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcraft-YF-943-E1AZ-19E583-A-A-C-Compressor-Fitting-Suction-Manifold/183130267010?hash=item2aa36a1d82:g:MBUAAOSwnhpaq8DX:rk:1:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-nos-oem-YF943-YF-943-suction-compressor-manifold-E1AZ19E583A-E1AZ-19E583A/262801670604?epid=139942640&hash=item3d303341cc:g:SuEAAAzyZONSwuNZ:rk:3:pf:0

used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/E1AZ-19E583-A-suction-manifold-FS6-compressor-Visteon-067035-Everco-A7183-FORD/152672190493?epid=1439618784&hash=item238bf8c01d:g:rzkAAOSw~OdVeIuP:rk:5:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Ford-Manifold-Vacuum-Control-AC-Compressor-Kit-YF-943-E1AZ-19E582-A/173684996677?hash=item28706eba45:g:ebkAAOSw1uVcDoxY:rk:1:pf:0

I hate body work! It is closer to paint! I hate body work!
I had no work today again so the plan was to get the hood in primer. That was the plan yesterday also but only turned on the lights and never made it back out because I hate body work!
With a lot of time on a flat board air sander and by hand with a flat board  we got her done and in primer. I hate body work!

Being I was on a roll and not knowing the time I pulled the right rear fender off the bed, I only had 2 nuts holding it on. I had to finish sanding it to prep for primer and I got that done also.
Because the left rear fender has the 2 fuel filler hoses & doors I would have to undo before I can pull the fender off and was running out of time is why it was not done.


The hood has some pin holes and I think the fender did also so I need to find my glazing putty  as I am not using a high build primer.
Did I tell you I hate body work!?
Dave ----

1986F150Six wrote

FuzzFace2 wrote

 Always a but ..... the compressor does not come with hose manifolds. I spent a few hours with the parts CD and found the part numbers
 suction E1AZ 19E583-A
 discharge E1AZ 19E582-A Think they come with the bolts & gaskets.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcraft-YF-943-E1AZ-19E583-A-A-C-Compressor-Fitting-Suction-Manifold/183130267010?hash=item2aa36a1d82:g:MBUAAOSwnhpaq8DX:rk:1:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-nos-oem-YF943-YF-943-suction-compressor-manifold-E1AZ19E583A-E1AZ-19E583A/262801670604?epid=139942640&hash=item3d303341cc:g:SuEAAAzyZONSwuNZ:rk:3:pf:0

used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/E1AZ-19E583-A-suction-manifold-FS6-compressor-Visteon-067035-Everco-A7183-FORD/152672190493?epid=1439618784&hash=item238bf8c01d:g:rzkAAOSw~OdVeIuP:rk:5:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Ford-Manifold-Vacuum-Control-AC-Compressor-Kit-YF-943-E1AZ-19E582-A/173684996677?hash=item28706eba45:g:ebkAAOSw1uVcDoxY:rk:1:pf:0

Thanks for the links they were the ones I found and had sticker shock with when I was looking on what all was needed to get a working system.
Depending on the needed parts I get I may not need them.
Then again truck still needs paint and put back together before I would need AC LOL
Thanks again
Dave ----

Dave - Why don't you tell us how you feel?  

Seriously though, you are making progress, and as Jim is wont to say, "progress is good".