81 F100 flare side custom with 300 six & T18

We have success, AC condenser & fan shroud!

1981 F100 w/4.9 300 six and factory AC.

Parts used:
Rock Auto
Radiator SPECTRA PREMIUM CU558  27-1/2" Core Length w/ Air Conditioning or Heavy Duty Cooling
AC condenser APDI/PRO 7013605 With Factory AC

NPD
Radiator Shroud  Fan Shroud Repro F5TZ-8146-C #F-8146-18 FOR 1995-1996 Ford Truck

So I first tried the new shroud on the truck with the old radiator and for the most part it looked like it would work as the fan opening and mounting tabs were in the right places but.....

I then pulled the old radiator and tried the shroud on it to see how it would mount and found the shroud did not fit close to the core.


Then tried it on the new radiator with the same results.

My brother that was helping said to trim the lip on either side of the shroud so it would fit past the tanks on the sides.
Well that was the ticket as it now sit close to the core and was then able to use all the stock factory mounting points. Sorry I did not get a picture of this not in the truck.

Here it is installed, I had to tweak the upper radiator mounts a little as the tanks were a little wider but the bottom mounts fit fine.


Now before doing the radiator & shroud I installed the AC condenser.
After reading many posts on the new ones not fitting and trying to get a Ford factory one was even harder I sucked it up and got what I could.
The 2 posts I seen on making it fit was to re-bend the mounting brackets or space it out at the bottom to clear the radiator support.

I went the easy way, space the bottom out. I also had to space the center grille support out a little to clear it but all looks good.
I still need to get longer bolts yet but it should work just fine.


I did the paper pull test on the condenser at idle and it held tight and you can feel the air flow.
If I find air is not being pulled thru the condenser I will use foam pipe insulation to fill the gap as needed.
Dave ----

That's great!

grumpin wrote

That's great!

Yes it is.
I was surprised how well the shroud fit after we trimmed the lip on both side, like it was made for it.

I was also worried that the shroud would be to thin and flex. One of the reviews said just that and when running the fan sucked it in and ate it. This was not the case with the 1 I used as I did not open the other box. For the $15.50 I paid it would be more to return it so I will hold on to it for now.

Now I get thinking this was for the wide radiator used with AC and think supper cooling.
I wonder if the other shroud listed for the same year trucks 95/ non-AC would fit the smaller non-AC radiator for guys wanting to run a shroud on them?
That would be something for "them" to check on as I don't have any of the small stuff to get measurements from.
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

...the shroud did not fit close to the core.
...
Then tried it on the new radiator with the same results.

That shroud is made for a factory 2-core (as thick as the tanks) radiator.  You can imagine that, if the core was 2x as thick, the shroud would be perfect.

Steve83 wrote

FuzzFace2 wrote

...the shroud did not fit close to the core.
...
Then tried it on the new radiator with the same results.

That shroud is made for a factory 2-core (as thick as the tanks) radiator.  You can imagine that, if the core was 2x as thick, the shroud would be perfect.

That shroud is made for 1995-1996 Trucks not an 81 Ford truck so the radiator is totally different for the 1995-1996 Trucks .

The early trucks did not have a 2 core radiator they just made it wider and the support for the AC & supper cooling trucks. This core is 27" the other I think is 24" and mounts top & bottom the 1995-1996 Trucks mount side to side.
Dave ----

Drained the water from the cooling system and flushed the system as it had a little rust and refilled with anti-freeze with hope it will stop the rusting.

I picked up longer bolts for the bottom of the condenser & center brace of the grille mount as the factory ones were to short after I had to use spacers to fit the condenser in.
Went looking for driving lights to fit the front bumper but did not find anything I liked or in the size I need. Going to try some places after the holiday.

Also hope my brother put the last bit of body filler on the hood so it can setup a few days before I sand it down.
In prepping for the hood sanding my shop air had a leaking PSI regulator so I had to run a bypass pipe and the system is up and running as it should.
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

...the radiator is totally different for the 1995-1996 Trucks .

The tanks are plastic with integral mounts, but the radiator (core) is essentially the same size & shape.

FuzzFace2 wrote

The early trucks did not have a 2 core radiator...

I'm pretty sure mine did originally, and I think that's what the last brass replacement was, but I'll try to remember to check it next time I'm rummaging through the junkpile.

FuzzFace2 wrote

...mounts top & bottom...

Right - all brass radiators mount that way in these trucks (up to '84, IIRC).

FuzzFace2 wrote

Went looking for driving lights to fit the front bumper but did not find anything I liked or in the size I need.

I really like these 5- or 6-element LEDs for everything:



They look slightly obtrusive there, but they're actually hard to notice on a dark-colored truck IRL.  They only stand out in this pic because you're looking for them:



They tolerate a WIDE voltage range (8-30VDC IIRC); their cast Aluminum housings are VERY robust & durable; they aren't actually sealed around the lens, but it's easy to do with a small tube of E6000; and they're BRIGHT.

I like how the new replacement radiator, plastic side tanks & Alum. core, and the shroud fit together with just the trimming of the lips (1/8" maybe each side).

As for the LED light I want a driving / spot light.
Work & flood lights do not put the light down the road, more on the sides, so you are always over driving the work / flood lights.
Most of my driving is to / from work in the dark when there are not a lot of other drivers.
 
The light cant be higher than about 3" to fit in between the curves of the bumper as I want to mount them IN the bumper, not under or over.
Also would like them to be square to match the square head lights. The "bar" type LED lights would not look right and the ones I seen on trucks & cars are more flood / work lights not driving.

If I have to I would go with a round light but it is not the look I am going for.
I have time before I need to mount the bumper to look for the right lights.
Dave ----

I've been eyeing this light mount. And round lights. Didn't think of square to match, good thought.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073V2NDQY/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I like a round lights as that's what we had back in the day.  But, I can see rectangular lights to match the headlights and turn signals.

And that mount is interesting.  I'm curious to see how it fits.

That could be a nice mount if I wanted lights above or maybe below the bumper.

I guess I could use  rectangular lights in the bumper if not higher than 3".
I know LMC makes a bumper for the 73-79 trucks with round and a rectangular that has a fog & driving light in it.
I do not know the size of the round light but the rectangular would work where I want them in the bumper. Need to see if they would be to wide to look right in the 80-86 bumper.

Dave ----

Well, my son got me the mounting bar, round lights and a wiring harness for Christmas.

I will let you know and get some pictures when I get a chance to at least mock it up. Might be awhile, suddenly lots going on.

FuzzFace2 wrote

Work & flood lights do not put the light down the road, more on the sides, so you are always over driving the work / flood lights.

I've driven at night on a hilly, curvy road without the headlights, and those 5-element LEDs under my mirrors worked fine.  There was a SLIGHT shadow straight ahead, but I had no trouble seeing, even as fast as I drive.

If you don't like their elliptical outline, &/or you want to surface-mount them on a bumper face, check out these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPQV06O
They're also available on eBay - probably MUCH cheaper.  And those are 6-element.

grumpin wrote

Well, my son got me the mounting bar, round lights and a wiring harness for Christmas.

I will let you know and get some pictures when I get a chance to at least mock it up. Might be awhile, suddenly lots going on.

Isn't it the way, you get something cool and you then don't have time to play with it.
Dave ----

Steve83 wrote

FuzzFace2 wrote

Work & flood lights do not put the light down the road, more on the sides, so you are always over driving the work / flood lights.

I've driven at night on a hilly, curvy road without the headlights, and those 5-element LEDs under my mirrors worked fine.  There was a SLIGHT shadow straight ahead, but I had no trouble seeing, even as fast as I drive.

If you don't like their elliptical outline, &/or you want to surface-mount them on a bumper face, check out these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPQV06O
They're also available on eBay - probably MUCH cheaper.  And those are 6-element.

I don't want the add on lights look like they were added like hanging off the mirrors or face mounted to the bumper.
A square hole will be made in the bumper, a tab made to bolt the lights to and the lights mounted from behind shining out the holes.

The sizes look about right to fit where I want them but they are flood / work lights. I want a light that shines down the road farther.

I have Grote LED flood / work lights on my cement trailer and the one down the side is nice to see the valves but the one off the back up high gets washed out not far behind the trailer.
Guess it is better than nothing but would not cut it for driving at any speed.

The LP gas trailers use 6" round lights and they have a great pattern and a lot of light that is helpful when backing into some of the dark drops we have and down the side for hook up when pumping off load.

I just have to do a little more looking till I find what I am looking for.
Just think of me as one of them TV car show guys "I want it my way" LOL
Dave ----

Did a little tinkering in the garage to day.
I wanted to find the AC hoses as I have not seen them since I pulled the parts truck apart back in Dec of 2015.
Found them all then the fun was to figure out how they went till I looked at the York compressor and saw the lines come in on the side.

In looking for the hoses I found the radiator over flow rubber hose but was a little short to fit right.
So I found some 5/16" metal brake line, bent it to fit over the radiator shroud using the rubber hose at either end.
I wanted to run the metal line longer but it had some rust on the outside and when bending is cracked so it was cut short.

I also looked over the over flow tanks I have. the one mounted is clean but the top is was loose and warped. The other was dirty inside and had paint all  over it.
Went with the clean one, used a heat gun and got the top straight and fits somewhat tight. May use a clear sealer to make sure the washer fluid & coolant don't mix.

I also tried to straighten one of the front bumpers using a bottle jack and the weight of the truck ....... did not work so going to have to come up with another plan.
May try taking it to work and see if I can use the press as I think it is outside.
Then again I may just use them as practice pieces for the lights I want to add and then get a painted one for $100 to cut for the lights to use? No I will not paint it got another plan for chrome.

I am running out of things to tinker with so I don't have to do the rest of the body work.
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

I wanted to run the metal line longer but it had some rust on the outside and when bending is cracked so it was cut short.

Consider using hard nylon tubing.  It's corrosion/impact/dry-rot proof, and affordable.  With a heat gun, it can be formed semipermanently.

FuzzFace2 wrote

The other was dirty inside and had paint all  over it.

If you can make it pool on the paint & sit for a few minutes, cheap brake parts cleaner will usually remove spray paint.  Water, Dawn dish soap, & PurplePower (or SimpleGreen) will usually clean the inside of a tank just by sloshing it vigorously for a few minutes.  A little sand will help, too, but it may take some extra rinsing to get it out.

FuzzFace2 wrote

I also tried to straighten one of the front bumpers using a bottle jack and the weight of the truck ....... did not work so going to have to come up with another plan.

I've had success with a big bench vise, but it has to be SOLIDLY-mounted to a SOLID bench.  Otherwise, I try to straighten them on the truck:



I straightened these on the ground, just using lumber (as padding) and prybars/sledgehammers:





My technique is to try to apply the same force that bent the bumper, at the same location in the opposite direction.

Steve83 wrote

FuzzFace2 wrote

I wanted to run the metal line longer but it had some rust on the outside and when bending is cracked so it was cut short.

Consider using hard nylon tubing.  It's corrosion/impact/dry-rot proof, and affordable.  With a heat gun, it can be formed semipermanently.

FuzzFace2 wrote

The other was dirty inside and had paint all  over it.

If you can make it pool on the paint & sit for a few minutes, cheap brake parts cleaner will usually remove spray paint.  Water, Dawn dish soap, & PurplePower (or SimpleGreen) will usually clean the inside of a tank just by sloshing it vigorously for a few minutes.  A little sand will help, too, but it may take some extra rinsing to get it out.

FuzzFace2 wrote

I also tried to straighten one of the front bumpers using a bottle jack and the weight of the truck ....... did not work so going to have to come up with another plan.

I've had success with a big bench vise, but it has to be SOLIDLY-mounted to a SOLID bench.  Otherwise, I try to straighten them on the truck:



I straightened these on the ground, just using lumber (as padding) and prybars/sledgehammers:





My technique is to try to apply the same force that bent the bumper, at the same location in the opposite direction.

Never gave a thought of the nylon tubing, might be able to get some from work as it is used for air lines on the 18 wheelers I drive. Have to check the wrecks the owner buys for parts as I am sure they will not be using the nylon.

The paint was not that bad on the over flow tank it was the dirt inside I did not want to deal with when I had a clean one on the truck with a loose lid. I will give it try on cleaning it so I have a spare if I need one.

Being a body man I know how to get the bumper straight and the dent out just did not have big enough tools to do the job.
Not having an I beam to use like you hurts that is why I was trying to use the trucks weight to push it straight with shims on the ends to push it pass the straight point and have it bounce back.
It worked good for jacking the truck up but that's it LOL

The bend is just off the side of the front plate mount so has a lot of different bends, this adds to how hard it is to bend back straight. I just don't know if it is worth the time to get straight for what I want to do with it.
I am not totally happy with the other bumper I straighten so why I am thinking new bumper.
Thanks
Dave ----

Yesterday I got up early to work on the truck and never made it out to the garage but I looked up parts for the AC.
 I want to run the Sanden FS6 compressor used on the 83 up trucks. I found you can get hoses to fit the compressor and can get the compressor but ......
 Always a but ..... the compressor does not come with hose manifolds. I spent a few hours with the parts CD and found the part numbers
 suction E1AZ 19E583-A
 discharge E1AZ 19E582-A Think they come with the bolts & gaskets.

 I got up early to work on the truck and this time made it out to the garage.
 I finished stripping the paint & rust off the tail gate using a angle die grinder and a bunch of Roloc discs.
 Once clean I did a little hammer & dolly work where I could. Some of the gate is 2 panels thick or the rolled top & bottom so I left the dents in them as they are not that bad.

 I then treated the gate to a spraying of Oxy-gone acid and a green sanding pad to work it in. Used a sponge and water to wipe the acid off and shop air to dry as it was flash rusting.
 Hit the gate and the rear bed roll pan, body work was done a long time ago, with a degreaser before priming as I did not want the gate to rust. I also hit the gate hinges with sand paper and a shot of primer.

 To get the gate out of the way I mounted it back on the truck. This was easy by myself, the gate was hanging from the rafters with 2 straps so I slid 1 end of the gate on a hinge then got the other side up in place and bolted that hinge into place. I think this way may also work for mounting the hood by myself when the time comes.

 Before I installed the tail gate I pulled the chains and started soaking them in Evap-O-Rust. Once I am happy with them I think they will need a coat of silver paint to look good.
 My brother when here for Christmas said to use bike tire tube to cover the chain to keep it from hurting the bed body so will have to pick up a tube one day.

 The last thing I did was removed the brackets off the rear bumper as I need to weld up some holes the PO's put in to mount the plate in a few different places and they had a heavy channel beam to reinforce for a bumper hitch the truck had. I mounted the brackets to the truck so I would not loose them but they will need to be pulled, cleaned and painted before a bumper can be installed.

 Just have the hood that I hope has the last coat of filler on it, a small dent in a fender to fix and the 2 rear fenders to finish prepping for primer and I think it should be ready for paint!
 Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

...I think they will need a coat of silver paint to look good.

Have you considered galvanizing spray instead of paint?  I've used Rustoleum's cold spray on a few things, but it seems to rub off (not necessarily THROUGH to the metal below) very easily.  When I was an industrial electrician's apprentice, we used a lot of hot galvanizing spray immediately after torching or welding, but it's not "cosmetically-appealing".   I'm not sure anything you can apply at home will stand up to the abrasion that those chains endure.

FuzzFace2 wrote

...bike tire tube to cover the chain...

That makes the chains' color seem moot.  Have you considered the later plastic-covered cables?