My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

[Rembrant]

I think you have to adjust the door latch when you install new seals.

Gary,

I'll give them a little bit and see if they settle in better. I remember reading the thread below on the topic...

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Door-seal-tp24618.html

I think part of the problem is the aftermarket driver's door...it doesn't quite fit as well as the original. I'll get it sorted out eventually. Now that I have the truck driving nicely, I'm on mission to get the interior finished (and quieted down).

[Sac79]

I think you have to adjust the door latch when you install new seals.

After installing the new seals in SC, my truck sat for 3 years with the doors closed. It made no difference. I've adjusted the latch as far out as it will go and I'm able to slam the doors shut now while still having acceptable body lines. Before adjusting the latch I could only close it to the first 'click', at which point the doors aren't lockable.

I hope you get the doors/seals to a point where you are happy with them.

[Rembrant]

After installing the new seals in SC, my truck sat for 3 years with the doors closed. It made no difference. I've adjusted the latch as far out as it will go and I'm able to slam the doors shut now while still having acceptable body lines. Before adjusting the latch I could only close it to the first 'click', at which point the doors aren't lockable.

I hope you get the doors/seals to a point where you are happy with them.

Thanks for the feedback. That's interesting. I guess I'll wait and see what mine do. If they don't settle in, I'll go around the whole thing and see if I can find the real tight spots and maybe then trim them if I have to. I don't think we have much in the way of options do we? I bought the complete kit by Fairchild. I kind of assumed that everybody is selling the same kit, but that was just a guess.

[Rembrant]

After installing the new seals in SC, my truck sat for 3 years with the doors closed. It made no difference. I've adjusted the latch as far out as it will go and I'm able to slam the doors shut now while still having acceptable body lines. Before adjusting the latch I could only close it to the first 'click', at which point the doors aren't lockable.

I hope you get the doors/seals to a point where you are happy with them.

Hey Rob and Ray, do you remember where you bought your door seals? Just curious what brand they were (and if they were the same as mine).

I did some reading last night, and one thing I found to try was to brush/rub baby power on to the seals and the door. That guy said it had more to do with traction than compression. I believe it's both, but he reported good results with that.

Another guy that restores cars said that he cuts them (or trims them) in the tight areas, or cuts a slit in the rubber bubble part. This is what I had in my head as my biggest issue is that the gap/space is really inconsistent, especially on the driver's side with that aftermarket door I have installed.

Other's recommended leaving the truck outside on a hot day to soften up the gaskets. I suppose that might work a little closer to the equator...lol, I'm not sure about here...maybe in August.

I might try a little dual action, with the heat gun and baby powder...that is, if they don't soften up on their own.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hey Rob and Ray, do you remember where you bought your door seals? Just curious what brand they were (and if they were the same as mine).

I did some reading last night, and one thing I found to try was to brush/rub baby power on to the seals and the door. That guy said it had more to do with traction than compression. I believe it's both, but he reported good results with that.

Another guy that restores cars said that he cuts them (or trims them) in the tight areas, or cuts a slit in the rubber bubble part. This is what I had in my head as my biggest issue is that the gap/space is really inconsistent, especially on the driver's side with that aftermarket door I have installed.

Other's recommended leaving the truck outside on a hot day to soften up the gaskets. I suppose that might work a little closer to the equator...lol, I'm not sure about here...maybe in August.

I might try a little dual action, with the heat gun and baby powder...that is, if they don't soften up on their own.

 

Rubber is a vulcanized product.

Heat may temporarily change its durometer but shouldn't affect its shape once it's fully cured.

We couldn't have things like car tires if it weren't that way.

[Rembrant]

Rubber is a vulcanized product.

Heat may temporarily change its durometer but shouldn't affect its shape once it's fully cured.

We couldn't have things like car tires if it weren't that way.

Yes sir. You just reminded me of something. Another comment that somebody made was that the original door seals were some kind of rubber coated foam? This is why they complied much easier...obviously this issue didn't exist on the assembly line, right? So, one thing somebody suggested was to go buy new OEM door seals from a current model vehicle, and that they'll work much better (and of course be much more expensive).

I don't think the heat was meant to change the shape of the rubber per se, but to help it find it's shape when compressed by the door. If the door seals never change shape, then there will be no choice but to cut and trim them. Going by some reports of the replacement seals never complying, then that may be the only solution.

[FuzzFace2]

Rubber is a vulcanized product.

Heat may temporarily change its durometer but shouldn't affect its shape once it's fully cured.

We couldn't have things like car tires if it weren't that way.

Yes sir. You just reminded me of something. Another comment that somebody made was that the original door seals were some kind of rubber coated foam? This is why they complied much easier...obviously this issue didn't exist on the assembly line, right? So, one thing somebody suggested was to go buy new OEM door seals from a current model vehicle, and that they'll work much better (and of course be much more expensive).

I don't think the heat was meant to change the shape of the rubber per se, but to help it find it's shape when compressed by the door. If the door seals never change shape, then there will be no choice but to cut and trim them. Going by some reports of the replacement seals never complying, then that may be the only solution.

I went with the Fairchild kit based on what you posted.

Now I did adjust the latches but they were removed for painting and installed to keep the doors from flying open when moving the truck around till the seals were installed.

My drivers door closes pretty good its the passengers side that I have to slam. I use the door as much as the drivers door as I throw my lunch cooler & work tools in on that side.

But I think it is more because the door is bent a little. I say this because I can see the upper rear inside of the window frame has hit the cab door opening and chipped the paint.

Some day I will see about bending it back a little with the "body man's trick" and see if that helps on closing. The opening lines are not show truck but pretty good for a driver and I hate to go messing them up or chipping paint if the door hits the opening or fender.

I don't think I could bring myself to cut the rubber just to get the door to close better where adjusting the latch may do the trick.

Dave ----

[kramttocs]

Hey Rob and Ray, do you remember where you bought your door seals? Just curious what brand they were (and if they were the same as mine).

I did some reading last night, and one thing I found to try was to brush/rub baby power on to the seals and the door. That guy said it had more to do with traction than compression. I believe it's both, but he reported good results with that.

Another guy that restores cars said that he cuts them (or trims them) in the tight areas, or cuts a slit in the rubber bubble part. This is what I had in my head as my biggest issue is that the gap/space is really inconsistent, especially on the driver's side with that aftermarket door I have installed.

Other's recommended leaving the truck outside on a hot day to soften up the gaskets. I suppose that might work a little closer to the equator...lol, I'm not sure about here...maybe in August.

I might try a little dual action, with the heat gun and baby powder...that is, if they don't soften up on their own.

 

FWIW, I am using Precision DWP 2110 80 and don't feel like I need to slam them. The latches were removed for painting so I can't say how much they are moved from before but the body lines are good. I shut the doors with the same force as I do with any [new] vehicle. I do have lightweight sound mats in the door also.

Also, this is likely common body shop knowledge but I didn't know about it and was happy to make the discovery after installing the weatherstripping - if the interior door panel is off there is a hole in the latching mechanism that allows you to loosen the striker bolt, pull the door so the body lines match and then tighten it up.

[Sac79]

Hey Rob and Ray, do you remember where you bought your door seals? Just curious what brand they were (and if they were the same as mine).

I did some reading last night, and one thing I found to try was to brush/rub baby power on to the seals and the door. That guy said it had more to do with traction than compression. I believe it's both, but he reported good results with that.

Another guy that restores cars said that he cuts them (or trims them) in the tight areas, or cuts a slit in the rubber bubble part. This is what I had in my head as my biggest issue is that the gap/space is really inconsistent, especially on the driver's side with that aftermarket door I have installed.

Other's recommended leaving the truck outside on a hot day to soften up the gaskets. I suppose that might work a little closer to the equator...lol, I'm not sure about here...maybe in August.

I might try a little dual action, with the heat gun and baby powder...that is, if they don't soften up on their own.

 

I'm 99% sure it's a kit from Fairchild. I think from RA, but not sure. Weirdly, in addition to the door seals being stiff, the driver's side is about an 1" too short. I should probably take them out again and compare the two pieces. Also, I'm not happy with the vent window seals, the fit was terrible from the start and hasn't improved. The rest is fine. I hope you have better luck. I would not cut the door seals either if I was you, at least not as anything other than a last resort.

[Ray Cecil]

I'm 99% sure it's a kit from Fairchild. I think from RA, but not sure. Weirdly, in addition to the door seals being stiff, the driver's side is about an 1" too short. I should probably take them out again and compare the two pieces. Also, I'm not happy with the vent window seals, the fit was terrible from the start and hasn't improved. The rest is fine. I hope you have better luck. I would not cut the door seals either if I was you, at least not as anything other than a last resort.

Dont remember exactly where I got mine....but good chance it was LMC. So whatever brand they carry.