Door seal

I changed door seals and now there is very hard to close the door.
Any idea what to do?
Seals have to arrange with door?

Jarek - It takes a while for the seals to give a bit and the door to be easier to close.  But you can make it easier by adjusting the door striker bolt outward just a bit so the door doesn't go as far in.  And then, when the seals soften/give you can re-adjust the striker bolt back to where the door is flush with the body.

The correct fix is a lot of work...

The door needs to be aligned to the cab & seals to prevent the new seals being cut by being pinched too tightly between the door & cab.  That in itself is a complicated procedure, described here.

But just getting to the bolts to adjust the door requires removing the fenders, which will need to be aligned to the door afterward.  Then the wiper valance & hood need to be aligned to the fenders.  This caption has a quick rundown of the whole process:



The last step is to reset the courtesy light switches, and then close the doors to adjust them:

I installed a full kit on my truck (FAIRCHILD KF100613 Belt, Channel, Seal Kit).

After the install, it was very hard to close the door.  Had to slam it closed.  I was almost going to adjust the striker....then thought I would give it some time.  Closes fine now with no adjustment.

How’s that Fairchild kit holding up so far? I’m thinking of going with that kit.

RangerExplorer wrote

How’s that Fairchild kit holding up so far? I’m thinking of going with that kit.

It better hold up pretty good as mine came in last Saturday, have not even opened the box.
I went with that kit based on Cory's word of being good for the vent window seals and the rest not looking bad.

It will be a week or 3 before I get to installing any of it as I have other stuff to work on.
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

I went with that kit based on Cory's word of being good for the vent window seals and the rest not looking bad.

Ya, so far I have only installed the vent window seals, and the wiper/seal that is attached to the top of the plastic door panel. The only thing with the vent window seals is that you may have to cut and trim a couple little spots here and there. They look like they're shipped right out of the mold, so some minor trimming may be required. It's nothing really. I thought they fit pretty well once installed.

Fairchild kit is holding up fine.  Still far to early to tell how it will hold up long term though.  Fitment was nice on all parts in the kit.  

<But just getting to the bolts to adjust the door requires removing the fenders, which will need to be aligned to the door afterward. >


I have removed and reinstalled doors on a Bullnose without removing the fender. So this is not true at all.

The problem with the doors not shutting easy is the weatherstrip. Frankly, they're not made correctly and that means the material as well. It is true it will become easier, but it is the weatherstrips fault. if it was OEM new weatherstrip it would shut fine. I do as Gary said most times, and not just on these trucks. It doesn't take much to move the striker a scoosh :)

PetesPonies wrote

I have removed and reinstalled doors on a Bullnose without removing the fender. So this is not true at all.

Yes, the doors can be R&I'ed without removing the fenders.  But that's not what I said.  Adjustment requires accessing the hinge-to-cowl bolts WHILE the door is attached & closed, which can't be done with the fender on.  If you adjusted them properly, those gaskets would work.  They're not a different size or shape from the factory gaskets.

I adjusted the door as well, fender on.

PetesPonies wrote

I adjusted as the door as well, fender on.

Yeah, that's exactly what I mean:

PetesPonies wrote

...doors not shutting easy...

You can't have it both ways. This is what you said  <Adjustment requires accessing the hinge-to-cowl bolts WHILE the door is attached & closed, which can't be done with the fender on.>

PetesPonies wrote

You can't have it both ways.

Neither can you.  If the doors still don't close right, you didn't adjust them.  If you pull the fenders, you CAN adjust them such that they close right.  Saying that you adjusted them, but not so that they close, is disingenuous.  Look back at the purpose of this thread, and the OP's question.  Your statements are counterproductive & misleading.

Would one of you guys be kind enough to show me the exact location to install the outer door seals? I don't know what else to call them?...I believe they stick just inside the edge of the door running up the A-pillars? A pair of these seals came with my full cab kit, and if my truck originally had these seals they were long gone when I bought it, so I don't know where they go or how they install. They have kind of a triangular cross section and are a couple feet long, maybe a little more.

#2 on the diagram in this link?

Thanks Shaun
That would be it. I guess I’ll just dry fit it and see how it sits on there. It has a little lip on it that I assume goes around the edge of the door.

Rembrant wrote

...show me the exact location to install the outer door seals?

I haven't found an original PN to confirm, but I think they were added around '85 to reduce wind noise.

Steve83 wrote

Rembrant wrote

...show me the exact location to install the outer door seals?

I haven't found an original PN to confirm, but I think they were added around '85 to reduce wind noise.

They are listed in my 1980 shop manual as only available on Ranger XLT and Lariat trim models.