ckuske Posted December 14, 2020 Author Share Posted December 14, 2020 They can be a bear to get apart. I think I held one wrench and hit the other with a mallet or dead-blow hammer to get some loose. And I remember getting other wrenches positioned where I could squeeze them together with both hands, making sure that I didn't get fingers in between them. I got those fittings off, I invested in a rubber mallet and boy did it help. Some of you may have seen my questions about the water elbow that screws into the manifold, in this thread: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/intake-manifold-heater-hose-junction-part-tp40348.html Just an update on that... I "built" my own part by going to Lowes. It's a bit more hacky than I'd like, but since the real part is no longer findable, it should work. I wanted to go stainless steel using the parts that Cory had suggested. I bought the parts actually, but a test fit revealed that the elbow on the top of the street tee was just too tall, it hit the steel fuel line that runs above the elbow, and it just didn't work. So, I went with a normal tee fitting for a lower profile, and as long as everything is oriented parallel to the engine itself, there is clearance. (If it's not pointed straight front to back, it will hit the distributor and/or valve cover) For others with the same issue, here are some pics of the assembly. I'll update this thread with results after it is installed and hopefully soon I can start the engine again and verify it doesn't leak. I just put it together on my desk to show it - it doesn't have thread sealant etc yet, and that's on purpose. I'll put some on everything when I install for real... Here's the old part (butchered a bit, I sawed off the hose barb so I didn't have to take off my distributor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 I got those fittings off, I invested in a rubber mallet and boy did it help. Some of you may have seen my questions about the water elbow that screws into the manifold, in this thread: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/intake-manifold-heater-hose-junction-part-tp40348.html Just an update on that... I "built" my own part by going to Lowes. It's a bit more hacky than I'd like, but since the real part is no longer findable, it should work. I wanted to go stainless steel using the parts that Cory had suggested. I bought the parts actually, but a test fit revealed that the elbow on the top of the street tee was just too tall, it hit the steel fuel line that runs above the elbow, and it just didn't work. So, I went with a normal tee fitting for a lower profile, and as long as everything is oriented parallel to the engine itself, there is clearance. (If it's not pointed straight front to back, it will hit the distributor and/or valve cover) For others with the same issue, here are some pics of the assembly. I'll update this thread with results after it is installed and hopefully soon I can start the engine again and verify it doesn't leak. I just put it together on my desk to show it - it doesn't have thread sealant etc yet, and that's on purpose. I'll put some on everything when I install for real... Here's the old part (butchered a bit, I sawed off the hose barb so I didn't have to take off my distributor. Well done! That looks like it will work just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 I got those fittings off, I invested in a rubber mallet and boy did it help. Some of you may have seen my questions about the water elbow that screws into the manifold, in this thread: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/intake-manifold-heater-hose-junction-part-tp40348.html Just an update on that... I "built" my own part by going to Lowes. It's a bit more hacky than I'd like, but since the real part is no longer findable, it should work. I wanted to go stainless steel using the parts that Cory had suggested. I bought the parts actually, but a test fit revealed that the elbow on the top of the street tee was just too tall, it hit the steel fuel line that runs above the elbow, and it just didn't work. So, I went with a normal tee fitting for a lower profile, and as long as everything is oriented parallel to the engine itself, there is clearance. (If it's not pointed straight front to back, it will hit the distributor and/or valve cover) For others with the same issue, here are some pics of the assembly. I'll update this thread with results after it is installed and hopefully soon I can start the engine again and verify it doesn't leak. I just put it together on my desk to show it - it doesn't have thread sealant etc yet, and that's on purpose. I'll put some on everything when I install for real... Here's the old part (butchered a bit, I sawed off the hose barb so I didn't have to take off my distributor. I think that's going to work nicely. I understand about the "hacky" look, but sometimes you just gotta do what works. On my oil cooler lines I used galvanized 45's and wish I'd painted them black as they do tend to shine a bit when you look down there. But they won't rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 I got those fittings off, I invested in a rubber mallet and boy did it help. Some of you may have seen my questions about the water elbow that screws into the manifold, in this thread: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/intake-manifold-heater-hose-junction-part-tp40348.html Just an update on that... I "built" my own part by going to Lowes. It's a bit more hacky than I'd like, but since the real part is no longer findable, it should work. I wanted to go stainless steel using the parts that Cory had suggested. I bought the parts actually, but a test fit revealed that the elbow on the top of the street tee was just too tall, it hit the steel fuel line that runs above the elbow, and it just didn't work. So, I went with a normal tee fitting for a lower profile, and as long as everything is oriented parallel to the engine itself, there is clearance. (If it's not pointed straight front to back, it will hit the distributor and/or valve cover) For others with the same issue, here are some pics of the assembly. I'll update this thread with results after it is installed and hopefully soon I can start the engine again and verify it doesn't leak. I just put it together on my desk to show it - it doesn't have thread sealant etc yet, and that's on purpose. I'll put some on everything when I install for real... Here's the old part (butchered a bit, I sawed off the hose barb so I didn't have to take off my distributor. Thanks for showing us how it's done! We can all learn from this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 Thanks for showing us how it's done! We can all learn from this Thanks guys, hoping to install tomorrow. In the other thread, there was a bit of banter about PTFE tape vs Permatex. I bought a bottle of Loctite PST 592, will that get it done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 Thanks guys, hoping to install tomorrow. In the other thread, there was a bit of banter about PTFE tape vs Permatex. I bought a bottle of Loctite PST 592, will that get it done? That should work fine. I'm the Loctite shill here. I drive by Henkel every day. Definitely resistant to glycol antifreeze at engine temperature. The applications guide says to use in petroleum refineries. You can't imagine the heat and pressures involved there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 I got those fittings off, I invested in a rubber mallet and boy did it help. Some of you may have seen my questions about the water elbow that screws into the manifold, in this thread: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/intake-manifold-heater-hose-junction-part-tp40348.html Just an update on that... I "built" my own part by going to Lowes. It's a bit more hacky than I'd like, but since the real part is no longer findable, it should work. I wanted to go stainless steel using the parts that Cory had suggested. I bought the parts actually, but a test fit revealed that the elbow on the top of the street tee was just too tall, it hit the steel fuel line that runs above the elbow, and it just didn't work. So, I went with a normal tee fitting for a lower profile, and as long as everything is oriented parallel to the engine itself, there is clearance. (If it's not pointed straight front to back, it will hit the distributor and/or valve cover) For others with the same issue, here are some pics of the assembly. I'll update this thread with results after it is installed and hopefully soon I can start the engine again and verify it doesn't leak. I just put it together on my desk to show it - it doesn't have thread sealant etc yet, and that's on purpose. I'll put some on everything when I install for real... Here's the old part (butchered a bit, I sawed off the hose barb so I didn't have to take off my distributor. Got it installed today, no issues! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 Got it installed today, no issues! Looks perfect, Chris. Well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 Looks perfect, Chris. Well done! Thanks Gary! I'd like to declare victory at this point, but we all know there are more layers of the onion to peel away. I'm working on getting the radiator support out - it has lots of surface rust and I'm going to be painting it so the front of the truck looks like (well, its more about ME knowing its nice than anyone else!) I have most of the bolts out, except for the two that come through bushings from the frame. I read on another thread to NOT take the bolts out, but rather just take the nuts off that sit on top of the bottom end of the radiator support. My question is - how are you guys getting to these nuts to torque them off? Are you using a deep socket with a super long extension or something? I can't see how to get a tool on there to get them loose and off - oh yeah, some PB Blaster is marinating on them right now too.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 Thanks Gary! I'd like to declare victory at this point, but we all know there are more layers of the onion to peel away. I'm working on getting the radiator support out - it has lots of surface rust and I'm going to be painting it so the front of the truck looks like (well, its more about ME knowing its nice than anyone else!) I have most of the bolts out, except for the two that come through bushings from the frame. I read on another thread to NOT take the bolts out, but rather just take the nuts off that sit on top of the bottom end of the radiator support. My question is - how are you guys getting to these nuts to torque them off? Are you using a deep socket with a super long extension or something? I can't see how to get a tool on there to get them loose and off - oh yeah, some PB Blaster is marinating on them right now too.... I do use a really long impact wobble extension to get to them Work them off and go back on if you feel too much binding. You don't want to snap that bolt! One thing I notice in the photos above is that the old one is gray and the new one black. Don't confuse sensors with senders. Sensors have a threshold, more like a switch, while senders vary resistance continuously. I don't know that is your case, but it is something to be mindful of. I wish Ford had used an entirely different NPT size so these couldn't be confused. But I've seen it a lot over at FTE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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