Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum › Projects

"Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Classic

List

Threaded

479 messages Options

1 ... 21222324

taskswap

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Figured I'd drop a word so this thread isn't dead. Life had a few little detours. I had a successful elk hunt but that always takes time away from other things. But more important, we finally found a decent "first car" for our two sons, who both turn 16 a few months apart from each other (I'm remarried so we're kind of a Brady Bunch family...)

Anyway, another Ford joins the stable. I never knew Ford had a "Freestyle", I guess it was only made for a few years. But it's the perfect car for them - AWD, V6 Duratec (0-60...eventually...) third row seating, etc. It had a few rough edges but it was the perfect excuse to introduce another generation to junkyards, and we had a fun day pulling mirrors and trim pieces off a junker this afternoon.

Back to Rocky, I have a question for you guys. Have any of you actually bought and used the LMC "dash pad cover"? Over the summer mine has warped pretty badly in the sun, and I feel like a dash pad ought to be designed to tolerate some sun... To be honest I'm not sure what to even do about it. Dash pads are too expensive to justify an NOS replacement (when you can even find them). My current one is in rough shape so I can't just leave it to rot. And this seems to be the only cover option available. Unless I missed something?

--
1981 F-250 Custom. 6.6L V8, 4 barrel Holley carb, ARA aftermarket A/C.

Gary Lewis

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Administrator

I wasn't familiar with the Freestyle. And apparently that's because it was only sold from 2005 - 2009, which is a small window for vehicles. Glad you were able to find parts in a salvage.

As for the LMC "dash pad cover", I assume you mean the one from Coverlay. LMC doesn't make dash pad covers but they, like about everyone else, sell the Coverlay one. I have one of those on Big Blue and it has worked well. Yes, there is a bit of warpage in spots I didn't have it completely glued down, but where I have it glued down it has worked extremely well. And I have it glued down all but a very small area.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

taskswap

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Well maybe you just answered my question because I didn't glue mine down at all. It just came wrapped in plastic with no instructions so I didn't know that was a thing. It has screws that line up with the factory dashboard mounting holes so I assumed that's all that was needed to hold it down. What adhesive did you use?

It's very tempting to just remake this with fiberglass but I'm not sure if it's worth the hassle...

--
1981 F-250 Custom. 6.6L V8, 4 barrel Holley carb, ARA aftermarket A/C.

Gary Lewis

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Administrator

They sent a clear RTV that they recommended using, but I had it come loose on a corner so I used a spray contact adhesive on that corner.

If I was to do it again I'd consider using a contact adhesive on the whole thing. The only concern is getting it to fit exactly where it is supposed to go on the first try, and I'd use some kind of guides in the screw holes on both the cover and the original pad to line it up.

Oh yes, I take the pad out of the truck and do the work on the bench, as shown below. And on the right is the RTV they sent, but it didn't adhere as well as I'd hoped. Perhaps I didn't have the dash pad perfectly clean with all Armor-All off?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ArdWrknTrk

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Administrator

Maybe there was a bunch of plasticizer cooking out of the old dash, Gary?
But that's what's gone when your old dash pad starts cracking.

Armor-All is awful stuff in my book.
It will put a temporary sheen on plastics, but leaves a film of silicone oil that builds up and is near impossible to remove.
Though you seem to have done a good job with the SEM prep products and procedure.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Administrator

Yes, it is possible I didn't get it clean. I don't remember how I cleaned it, but I doubt I used the SEM cleaner. And I do know that Armor-All was used on the dash pad. But the spray adhesive is working in the same spot the RTV didn't and I didn't have a chance to clean the pad before I sprayed it.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

taskswap

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Thanks guys, this is super helpful. I definitely did not use adhesive to attach my cover. I'm not in a good spot right now to remove my dash so I'm going to stay focused on the fuel tanks and steering when I get time to work on it.

Maybe in spring I'll do this when I upgrade the heater. I've been considering putting a https://www.vintageair.com/ system into the truck because it's smaller and more modern than the original factory heat and ARA aftermarket A/C. And honestly not too much more expensive since my current A/C is shot and probably needs at least a new compressor, hoses, and evap core...

--
1981 F-250 Custom. 6.6L V8, 4 barrel Holley carb, ARA aftermarket A/C.

Kelly Looper

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

In reply to this post by taskswap

I see that this is an older post but it's one of the only ones I could find with this topic of left handed lug nut threads on some rear HD truck axles. However, my inquiry is this; I have seen several post on Facebook Bullnose groups that have brought up this subject as well and everyone I've seen bring it up says that they're on the rest "Left" side (Drivers side), Well mine are not, they are on the right rear or passenger side rear. What's going on? Am I missing something?

TRK#1-1884 F350 Crew cab 4.9/300 T-19 Base Trk, Originally Propane, Currently running on an old Affordable Fuel Injection TBI.

TRK#2-1985 F150 5.0 EFI AOD 4X4 XLT Lariat Mfg Date 7-85

Gary Lewis

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Administrator

I think someone swapped axles left/right at some point in time. But I'm not sure that the axles are the same length, so that may not be possible and I may be all wet.

From everything I've read the left-handed lug nuts were always used on the left side of the vehicle, and the theory was that hard braking would tend to tighten the nut. Chrysler used left-handed lugs on many, if not all, of their vehicles at least as late as '69, and Ford did on some of the trucks into the early 80's.

You can buy replacement lugs, and I think there's enough room behind the axle to drive the lugs out and replace them. However, that may be very difficult on your truck as I think it is a lot of work to get the brake drum off on your truck. So I'd just wait to do that until brake job time when you are going to be in there anyway.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

taskswap

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

I don't know if OP is still looking for a lug solution but just to put a pin in that, I did replace my (stock/left-side) lugs on both my discs (front) and drums (rear). I used these:

Dorman 610-228 Rear 9/16-18 Serrated Wheel Stud - .625 in. Knurl, 2-25/32 in. Length Compatible with Select Ford Models, 10 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011N1K7C

The listing is misleading, this is for a box of 10 (they aren't $22ea!). But they installed quite easily, I thought. I didn't need a press for removal or installation. I just set the disc and drum over a cinder block and used a 2lb sledge to drive them out and the new ones in. To seat them fully I used a pair of washers with a small dab of grease between them as a temporary bearing and an open-end lug nut plus a deep socket impact to draw them fully in. It was really fast an easy.

--
1981 F-250 Custom. 6.6L V8, 4 barrel Holley carb, ARA aftermarket A/C.

taskswap

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Guys can I revive an old and horse-beaten topic? Rear lockers. But maybe with a twist?

I've had a health setback (stroke) and I'm reprioritizing some projects. Everyone in the family loves Rocky and I have no plan to sell it, but figuring out what to do with it has been a challenge. I'm the only person who can drive stick (very well) and I don't really want to think about an automatic conversion. It's also obviously never going to be a show truck.

We have a homestead here in CO where it can while away its years (just like me LOL) but the most useful thing I'd do with it aside from runs into town is plowing. Not a lot of plowing, mind, but we have a dirt access road with two spots that collect snowdrifts, each about 30' long. It's enough to be a barrier for most vehicles in winter, but as you can imagine this is no great workload for even an entry level plow setup. It's a straight "push it to the side to make a path" type of work effort.

The trouble is, Rocky is 2WD. All the other specs are great - '81 F-250, 6.6L V8 351M that starts instantly even in the dead of winter, etc. I've got some chunky hybrid-mud tires on there, too and I can keep chains on it full time because it's all a dirt road from the property out to the main highway. But it's still very tempting to try to do something about the stock rear axle (a Dana 61 at 3.73).

I know lockers come up in discussion a lot but all the past threads I've seen have focused on daily drivers, people wanting "hunt trucks with highway manners" and so on. But what would you do if you had the opposite situation? Suppose you wanted the fastest, simplest option to give something like Rocky more grip in snow and mud, and on-road behavior was almost never important? I'm not super driven by cost here but mostly because I figure the most costly options are probably not the first choice anyway... I do have some skill at welding but only moderate so I'm not sure I'm up to welding the spider gears properly.

Everything I see seems to mostly focus on Dana 60's. I know the 61 is essentially similar but with a few clearance/spacing differences but I don't exactly have a machine shop in my garage. And given my health issues I just can't see trying to pull old axles from junkyards at this point. Is there a purchasable, bolt-in option of some kind that a shade-tree mechanic could pull off that would at least add some snow/mud grip for this kind of occasional use?

--
1981 F-250 Custom. 6.6L V8, 4 barrel Holley carb, ARA aftermarket A/C.

grumpin

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

I had a Detroit True Trac installed in my 98 GMC. I really like it.

Good road manners, always there, no special lube requirements and very stout. And it makes me giggle when it chirps on a faster take off!

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/differentials/eaton-detroit-truetrac-differential.html

Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
Arizona

Gary Lewis

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Administrator

Sorry about the stroke! Please take appropriate cautions from now on.

As for the diff, while your application might be ok with welding, I've not done that and don't know what needs to be done to make that happen. But at the very least I'd think the diff needs to be out or, if you weld like me, you'll have spatter in the gears that will cause horrible problems.

And if you are going to take it out then I think I'd want to go back with something "good". I, too, have a True Trac and love it. The thing just works when it needs to and doesn't cause any problems otherwise. No need for a way to engage it. Just install and enjoy.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

taskswap

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Thanks, guys.

So this Eaton... Their application guide is a little confusing. It's been a year since I verified these notes but last summer I spent some time figuring out exactly what I have and my notes say "Axle 42 = Dana - Capacity 6250 - Ratio 3.73 Dana (Spicer) 30 Spline 10 bolt cover 9.75" ring gear Looks Like A Standard Dana 60, But Has A Different Offset For The Carrier". Any of that sound any alarm bells for you?

From Eaton's application guide if I choose Rear, 30 Spline, "3.73 and Down" plus "3.73 and up" (because I have no idea what the diff is I get two results:

913A315: DETROIT TRUETRAC® DIFFERENTIAL; GM 8.875 IN.; 30 SPLINE; 3.73 AND UP
913A589: DETROIT TRUETRAC® DIFFERENTIAL; DANA 44 FRONT; 30 SPLINE; 3.73 AND DOWN

Neither screams "this is the one" and their detail pages are unhelpful too. One has notes like "For use with non-thick ring gears only." and the other says "All Eaton differentials made for General Motors 8.5" and 8.6" axles require special bearings. For axles with small bearing bores (race O.D. or 2.89"), usually found on vehicles prior to 1999, bearing LM102949 and race LM102911 are required. For axles with large bearing bores (race O.D. of 3.06"), usually found on vehicles from 1999 to present, bearing LM603049 and race LM603012 are required.".

And they list different ring gear sizes of 8.875" and 8.5" neither of which match mine.

Do you happen to have any idea what part numbers y'all might have installed?

--
1981 F-250 Custom. 6.6L V8, 4 barrel Holley carb, ARA aftermarket A/C.

Gary Lewis

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Administrator

I didn't install this one, so don't have a part number. Besides mine is a 10.25" axle.

Summit didn't find any Truetrac for your truck, saying "There are no results for your 1981 FORD F-250 that match your search criteria." And the Eaton application guide doesn't show any either from what I can see. Bummer!

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

taskswap

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

That seems to be my experience so far. Lots of "this is an easy install!" threads and videos from guys that seem to tear down and build diffs and axles as a weekend hobby (not me) and not so much "this is your truck, we know your truck, buy this and it will work..."...

--
1981 F-250 Custom. 6.6L V8, 4 barrel Holley carb, ARA aftermarket A/C.

mat in tn

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

I have a similar truck although an automatic. I can see the value of having a traction lock if available. mine is an 81 f250 ranger camper special with 351m and c6. it's a great farm truck etc. I have not looked into what options are available for a dana 61 so I'm interested to see what info comes up.

taskswap

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Well I haven't got a definite answer yet. But I'm LEANING toward welding the spiders. If I do turn this into a plow vehicle it will live out its days almost completely on dirt roads and typically only be driven to plow - with snow on the road. So the usual drawbacks like being terrible on paved roads wouldn't apply. I'm not 100% sure this is a good idea, yet. Small ATVs with plows come up on Craigslist all the time pretty cheaply and for light duty like this would be fine. My daughter loves Rocky and is insisting on keeping it set up the way it already is.

I'll report back once I decide either way

--
1981 F-250 Custom. 6.6L V8, 4 barrel Holley carb, ARA aftermarket A/C.

Gary Lewis

Re: "Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

Administrator

I would think that an ATV would be quite handy where you are, and one with a plow even more so.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

1 ... 21222324