Rembrant

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll do whatever I can to check all the fits in advance. I did a lot of reading today on the poor fit of this flexplate, and it appears to be a somewhat common problem. The bolt circle for the studs on the converter is 11 7/16", or 11.425". Apparently the flexplates often have a bolt circle of 11 3/8", or 11.375" even though they're advertised as having 11.4", or 11.44", or 11.5" bolt circles. I can't seem to find a why...just that the fit issue exists. I talked to a friend that is a hardcore Ford nut, and he says he's had to drill those holes out many times, so that made me feel a little better about it also. I know it's not a big deal to open up the holes a hair, but I'd still like to know why...lol. Is it a manufacturing error, or is there just a loose tolerance on the spec during manufacturing. It's not a Chinese part...but it did say made in Mexico. PS: After cleaning up the case on the transmission, I solved at least one of the little puzzles I had ion my mind. There is a metal guard on the RH side of the transmission that protects an electrical connector, and stamped into that plate is "AODE/W". It's hardly worth discussing at this point, but I've been trying to find out whether the trans was an AODE/W, or a 4R70W. I know they're basically the same thing anyway, but it depends on who you're talking to. Some people are adamant that the 4R70W never came with the SBF bolt pattern. Others will say that they did. I guess it's either or...lol, I dunno.

On a positive note, I give the seller two thumbs up for posting a picture of the certification label!! I love it when they do that. I'd buy that truck if I wasn't on the other side of the continent. PS: I might be looking for a cheap Bullnose in the spring, so keep your eyes peeled...but it would have to be running LOL.

Does the block have a 1pc rear main lip seal, or the old tradition 2 pc rope style? If it has a 1pc rear main seal, it is likely to have a 50oz crank. I can only say likely as I'm not 100% sure both changed at the exact same time, but the change to 50oz and 1pc rear main seal happened in 1982 (I think) and a lot of people assume that they changed at the same time. Some of the 5.0L engine block changes are mysteries, at least as far as WHEN the changes happened. The oil pan dipstick location might provide some hints as well. I agree that some people shouldn't be allowed to touch tools...lol. Ford does have a lot of mysteries, and the 302 is probably the worst of them all.

Cool. Done. I checked the existing holes and they were 7/16", which is about right for 3/8" studs. I ran a 29/64" drill bit through each hole, and now the flex plate fits on snugly with no slop. I might even have to open the holes up a tiny bit more to allow the little stub to self-align during installation. Thanks for the info.

I guess that's where it gets murky for me...lol. Isn't the AODE-W and the 4R70W one in the same thing? I guess it gets more into what is the name (instead of the internals). I've read on forums where guys say that the 4R70W never existed with a SBF bolt pattern. If it has a SBF bolt pattern some guys swear they are an AODE-W. I bought this trans online, and it was listed as an AODE-W / 4R70W...lol. I know the W means they have the lower 1st and 2nd gears, which was done for the modular motors (4.6, etc) which had less low end power. In any case, I'm excited to get it bolted up and tested. I figured the lower first gears would be nice even with the 5.0, and then the OD will be nice with the 3.55 diff. My '84 F150 had OD (M5OD) and 3.08 diff, and while it was great on the highway, it was geared too tall for regular driving. Does the AODE-W and 4R70W have a lock-up torque converter? I'll have to go read up on that hgm compushift. Thanks for the info. Gents, I went to test fit my new flexplate on my "new" 4R70W trans, and it won't go on to the torque converter studs. The circle of the studs is a hair bigger than the circle of holes in the flex plate. I haven't touched an automatic in 25 years so forgive me for the dumb questions, but can I just open these holes up a hair to get it to slide on? There's a stub on the torque converter that looks like it fits in the end of the 5.0L crank to center it? (What I'm asking is, I assume the torque converter studs are not what centers everything here?)

I can only speak to the 5.0L, but it is my understanding that the 5.0 pickups with automatics got MAF in 1995, and the manuals did not. In 1996 both manuals and autos got MAF. The 1995 F150 5.0 I bought to junk for the chassis was a 5spd truck and was not MAF. I was just curious what the MAF scoop was on the 5.8L. Since they kept using the 5.8L a full year after the 5.0L was discontinued in the pickups, I was curious if it ever got the "upgrade". My friend Chris has a 1997 F350 same as the one here, and it has a build date of 11/97 so they must have built them right up until the end of the calendar year.

Haha, I know right? 35+ years later, I don't any fullsize trucks are getting that kind of MPG are they?...lol.

Nice truck. I like the roller block 351w;). Hey, did the 351w ever get MAF? I am assuming no. I am thinking I will be stuck with the truck I have for years to come, and as much as I love my little 5.0 small block Fords, I still have a craving to build a nice roller 351w. A 408 stroker kit would make it even sweeter;).

Well done! What if you filled the bolt heads with clear silicone, and just wiped it off flush with the tops?

Ok, you guys both have me confused now...lol. The FSM's are not overly clear on the throttle kicker device...or, if it will make any more sense the FSM is sometimes very clear in a description, but it will then leave out the nuances of where that description applies...lol. In any case, it appears that on the 4.9L and 302, the Throttle Kicker is used to "kick up" the idle slightly when required (like when the AC compressor kicks on). On the 460, and on the 4.9L (above 8500 GVWR), the Throttle Kicker becomes the "Decel Throttle Kicker", and is then used to keep the throttle from closing fully when decelerating (for emissions reasons). The throttle is kept open a little bit to burn that remaining fuel instead of dumping it out the exhaust. The one wild card would be the 5.8L, and since that part is not really clear to me, I'm guessing that on the 2bbl the throttle kicker is an idle kicker, and on the 4bbl, it is a Decel Throttle Kicker? Anyway...I have both 1984 and 1985 FSM's, and they're both the same on all of these details, showing the throttle kicker on the valve covers of 50 state 460's, 5.8's, and some 4.9's (except Canada). The Throttle Kicker Module is interesting. It shows that the valve is grounded at speeds above 1850 RPM. I'm not 100% sure how that translates into how it operates. The might mean that the valve closes or opens at 1850 RPM when decelerating? In any case, going back to the original poster's questions. If the solenoid valve that is still mounted on the valve cover has NO vacuum lines connected to it, then it isn't in use anymore and I'm sure it could be removed. As always, be careful and don't do anything that you can't undo without testing to make sure it still works OK. If you don't have any emissions testing in your area, and you're not concerned about it personally, then you can remove a lot of stuff under the hood of these old trucks.

Gary, I’ll have to look it up when I get home as I do t have my files with me at work anymore. I couldn’t fit it in the snips, but the bottom of these pics did say “50 State” vehicles.

Welcome aboard. I like the OBSelete name...lol. I find the 1980-1996 F-series truck to all be in the same family. There's a lot of stuff that it the same through those years.

This thing is very cool. Love the wheels and tires btw. Well done.

On a 1984 460, that would be the throttle kicker solenoid. You're in luck, we have some 460 experts on here...but I'm not one of them...lol. I just happen to have a 1984 FSM.

I would also note that this is a later Metric speedometer as it is 6-digit. The earlier ones...1980-1982? Were only 5-digit, the same as the US mph units. My '84 had a 6-digit, so I know the changeover happened prior to 1984. My 1980 F150 had a 5-digit speedometer.

Good day David, Funny to compare, but I'm 1850 miles Northeast of you in Canada (by road, a little shorter as the crow flies) and it was 50F here yesterday, and there's not a flake of snow on the ground. It's down to 25F today, so a little more crisp, but still no snow. Winter is kinda wonky where I live. We don't get much snow, and when we do it is almost always followed by rain. My winter is more freezing rain and black ice than snow. We did however get a big dump of snow in November...a full 12" or more came down overnight. Then it rained for 3-4 days straight and it was all gone.

Congrats man, that's a satisfying move/decision. I have over the years had more than one project at a time, and I always end up being frustrated that I can never fully finish one if there's more than one. It's nice to just focus on one thing and dig into it.

Oh, it's in the background all the time because I'm working in a small attached garage. There's no room lol. I'm running the serpentine system from the 1996 F150, minus the smog pump. It had factory AC, so I'm leaving that intact as I plan to use it later on. Funny you mention the timing cover, I actually didn't think to check the rotation, but there's no provisions at all for a mechanical fuel pump, so I just assumed it was for serpentine rotation. In any case, I bought an '87 Mustang 5.0 water pump, and it has round ports so that it can be used on either rotation timing cover (Ford did that on purpose for a few years with the Mustang). The Mustang water pump is identical to the 1996 F150 water pump, except for that rear plate with the ports/holes in it.

Oh, you guys might like this... I was really trying to come up with a way to make this small block Ford look unique under the hood of an old Mercury pickup. I searched for SBF Mercury valve covers, but it seems that by the time any Mercury's were running SBF's, the engines were all still Ford branded. I did find some Cougar valve covers, but they're no good to me. I did find Mercury valve covers for FE? engines?>..with 5 bolts? Annnd, I also found nice machined aluminum adapters that would allow me to run FE valve covers on a small block Ford, but the prices of all these things put it all way out of reach. I think they'd look so cool on there, and of course they're make a great conversation piece. Most of the old guys would know the difference, but lots of people would still be scratching their heads. Anyway, what ended up with is that I ordered a set of cheap plain black valve covers, and a friend of mine is making me adhesive stencils in the Mercury script so I can paint the Mercury on the valve covers. I'll do the lettering in high temp engine paint, and then clear. I might try to scuff them up a bit to give them a weathered look. Oh well, it'll be something to take about at the local cruise-ins!

I haven't updated this project thread in a while, so here's the latest news... As you know I purchased a 5.0 V8 out of a 1996 F150. I had it mostly stripped down and had the heads refurbed already. I was just getting ready to take the short block in to the engine shop for a refresh when one popped up locally already finished and ready to go. That changed my plans slightly, but buying a finished short block knocks weeks, if not not a full month off my project schedule. This IS good news. The only catch is that the finished shortblock had a Ford E303 cam in it, and Foxbody oil pan and sump. However, it had brand new pistons, new roller lifters, new timing chain, oil pump, etc. The block had been line honed and balanced, too. Anyway, I swapped the truck cam over as well as the truck oil pan and sump, and then buttoned the heads on yesterday with new TTY bolts. It's starting to feel like and engine again! So that's where it sits as of today. I'm going to paint the engine gloss black, leaving the intake and water pump in raw aluminum. Put another big order in today with both RockAuto and Summit, so I should have more parts to work with by next weekend. As per everybody's suggestions on here I ordered all new seals and gaskets, filters, etc for the 4R70W trans. New flexplate, new PMGR starter, etc, etc. My goal is to have the engine and trans mounted in the truck by the end of January. PS: By the way, I noticed that this shortbock I bought has a pilot bearing in the crank. Do I need to remove that, or can I just leave it in there if I'm installing an auto trans? I guess I'll have to test fit the flexplate and see. By the way #2...for the 4R70W input seal, I ordered a "torque converter shaft seal". I assume this is what one would call the input seal? I'm not used to working on auto trannys. On manuals, I'd just order an input shaft seal. So, my current holdup is that I still need to remove some stuff from the truck. I have to swap in a Toyota power steering box that I'll be operating with the Ford CII pump. Since some fab work is required to get the box in, I really need to get that done in order to position the engine properly. Other things to note... I'll be running the stock 1996 3G alternator (I think 95 amp), and I'll be going with an 80's DSII ignition module, etc. I already have the distributor, and the PMGR starter. So this old thing will be very Bullnose-ish under the hood...or upgraded Bullnose-ish at least. Anyway, I still have a long LONG way to go, but with the engine starting to look like an engine again, and trans rehab parts on the way, I'm feeling like I'll be able to get it all installed in the truck soon. Once I get that far, everything else will seem like gravy after that.

I know, right? That is a beautiful little truck in really nice original condition. I don't mind some mild engine upgrades and a nice set of wheels and tires, but that would be it for me. However, to each their own I guess, so what can I say;). Be nice to see the progress though, either way. I enjoy watching when the builds are more budget minded.

This popped up in my IG feed this morning and I thought some of you might enjoy it if you like following YouTube builds, etc. this guy is going to be hopping up a 1985 Flareside on a bit of a budget for drag racing I guess:). Enjoy:

On the 300 intake it is not as serious as the cracks are only on the exhaust side, not the intake side. It makes for a bad exhaust leak noise, but it doesn't harm anything else. Of the two 300 intakes I had, both were cracked in both places. I did see the same cracks on junkyard trucks as well. A symptom of our climate up here? Starting the engine up in the cold weather? I know the intake casting is really thin in those corners, which doesn't help the situation.

Yes, it is a normal amount of bend. It was cast that way from Ford, although I don't know why. Maybe one of the 300 experts on here can enlighten us as to why. Yours is upside down in the picture, but here is a picture of the intake on my 300, and you can clearly see that the front intake ports go level/straight into the cylinder head, but the rear end of the "log" curves upwards, and the ports are curved downwards. That's not warped, that was made that way...but I have no idea why. You've probably already found this, but on the two 300 intakes that I had to work with, both were cracked in two places. See the arrows below...both front corners of the intake "box" that serves as the carburetor heater. Each corner was cracked at least an inch long vertically, creating pretty nasty exhaust leaks. I welded mine up, which was a slow and tedious process (welding cast iron) but I did get them sealed up in the end. I only have limited experience with the 300, but I would say that even if that intake isn't 100% flat where it bolts to the cylinder head, I wouldn't worry too much about it right away. The bolts will suck it in tight, at least a little bit. And by a little bit, I'm talking maybe 0.020", not an 1/8". If there were two intake runners side by side that were off significantly I would be concerned, but if the intake is off by a few thousands from end to end, I wouldn't be worried too much. Use all new gaskets and all new bolts (make sure you have the original thick washers), and tighten it all in evenly and slowly.

Yeah, that's my take as well. It's one of those things that a guy can really get dragged into a rabbit hole with online. People often refer to something as being superior, or better, or ideal whatever. I always have to ask the question, what is the unit of measure in determining that something is better? I have checked several 302's now, and from the factory the piston to deck heights on them were in the 0.014"-0.015" range, with roughly 0.040" compressed thickness factory head gaskets. That puts them in the 0.055" range for quench. I just assembled my little 5.0/302 today, and it is basically zero-decked now. I installed the stock spec Fel-Pro head gaskets that are supposed to be around 0.047" compressed. I suppose it is still not 'ideal', but it is better than it was originally. I asked the question originally because somebody had asked me online elsewhere, and it got me wondering. I suppose I could have ordered the other gaskets that were 0.040" thick (and twice as much money), but who in the heck would know the difference? Not me, not the truck, nor would anybody else that ever drove it know...lol.