Rembrant

I remember this job very well since it was one of those times where I turned a thumbnail black lol. If you know how painful that is, then you know why I remember the exact job I was doing when it happened. If you remove the rag joint, you can get down in there with a long drift or a long punch, and hammer it out. It's still a bear to remove if it's rusted and seized in place, but it will come out.

Sounds like it's leaking at the stamped seam somewhere. I know on the Bullnose side mount tanks, the seam would represent approx 3/4 full mark....assuming it's the tank is not rusted all to pieces like they get here...in which case it could be leaking anywhere. You know you're deep into the rust belt when I know not one, but TWO people that have had oil filters rust through and leak. I have replaced several oil pans over the years that rusted through and started leaking, and fuel tanks area pretty common too, but they usually rot out from the top where the salt collects on top of them.

Beautiful! I love the look of a fresh black frame. Well done.

"Posi" in another one of GM's Generic Trademark names, like "Stepside"...lol. Everybody uses the GM term Posi to describe a limited slip the same way everybody uses the word Stepside when talking about Ford's Flareside, or Dodge's Utililine, etc.

I would love to find a nice used kit like this, but without the distributor. I'm going with all Bullnose era ignition setup in my '52 Merc. Seems hard to even find a good DSII ignition module these days, and to think I had about FIVE of them on the garage shelf at one time haha. This is how I roll.

If you can't find a set locally, check Car-Part.com and I think you'll find them. Here's a screenshot of a quick search in the Midwest. I know you're in Texas, but search around and you'll find a set that somebody will ship.

Not that I know of, no. I believe the hydraulic pedal sets are all specific to the truck generations. '84-'86, '87-'91, and '92-'96. I believe, and Gary can correct me if I'm wrong, but the hydraulic pedal set started in 1983 technically, but they were rare (only with 460 & diesel). Otherwise, they didn't show up on everything else until 1984, which makes them somewhat rare these days...since they were only used for 3 years.

I'm actually just getting ready to order this kit myself, along with the 3G Alternator wiring harness. Lots of info on the Painless webspage. Click on Install Instructions for a PDF manual for the kit install. https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30812

Gary, I spotted that post about 30 minutes after you did. I was just getting ready to tag you in it when I saw that you had already replied. Nice catch!

With the inline six, you should be able to handle those tall gears. The 302 wouldn't like it much, but the 300 will.

Yes, a higher rear gear ratio might help, but it might make the drivability worse. My '84 had 302 with M5OD 5spd, and 3.08 rear diff. I love the 302, but it's a bit of a dog at lower RPM's. Ford did sell trucks with the 5spd and 3.08 rear ends, but I think it was more of combo that went with the 300/6, which is quite content (and powerful) and the lower RPM's. Unless you were specifically wanting a low rpm highway machine, a 5spd should be mated up with a 3.55 or 3.31, or 3.25, or something like that. My '84 would get 18mpg on the highway if I drove it easily, but it was more of a 15mpg truck for regular local driving. I had that truck/engine dialed in too, AFR was very good, tires and alignment good, etc. Now if you talk to Rusty85 on here, he has some different theories on MPG. He is building a Bullnose with 302 and I think a C6 with 31" tires, and he's planning to get 25mpg at 2700 RPM/75MPH with that truck. He might have some information on how to do that, or hit those MPG numbers. It goes against what I know, but I'm certainly no expert.

That 3181 lbs doesn't really surprise me. I weighed my '84 Flareside, and if I remember correctly I had the curb weight on it around 3375 lbs. This truck with the 3.8V6 would definitely be lighter than my 302, but by how much I don't know...somewhere between 50-100 lbs? My "fat" wheels and tires were heavy as well. I know Gary mentioned previously that side by side, a swb Styleside truck was lighter than the comparible Flarside, but I can't remember how much that difference was. I would have thought the difference to be the other way, but the Ford documentation says no.

Ha! I like this thing! https://www.ebay.com/itm/294829637013?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&siteid=0&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&toolid=20008&campid=5336658105&customid= Notice the factory foglight switch on the instrument bezel, for the keeners that like the little details;). Salans, you need this for a daily driver!

My ‘84 with 302 and M5OD ran around 65mph at 2000 RPM. That was with 3.08 diff. My tires were 275/60-15, but were the same OD as the factory 215’s that came on it. In any case, I checked it for distance and with GPS and my speedometer/odometer was bang on, so I know my numbers were correct. If I remember correctly, 4th gear at 60mph was more like 2300 RPM (which was the same with the original 3spd…3rd is the same 1:1 as 4th). My 5spd came out of a truck with a 3.08 diff, so the speedo drive gear stayed corrrect.

I am assuming that the 302 to 351W swap would also mean EFI to carb swap? If you are by chance thinking of trying to swap in the 351W and retain the factory SD EFI, then I don't think that I would bother with it. Swapping to a complete 351w with carb though? Easy peazy, I'd say. You'd likely have to change the flexplate or flywheel...unless the two vehicles happen to have the same transmissions. In other words, you can't put the 302 flywheel/flexplate on the 351w. Otherwise it will all swap in there pretty easily. You'd have to install a pre-EFI fuel tank and new fuel line, and gear up a DSII ignition or similar.

Nice truck. Love that two tone silver/grey.

I'm diggin' these old 1 ton box trucks and stake bodies, etc. I'd love to have one for the cruise in nights just to have something different.

Well look at that, I had no idea. I guess from trolling the junkyards, I thought that style relay didn't come out until after the Bullnose. I even thought it was way later, like 1992-1996.

Hey John, My 2 cents worth, but if you switched back to the Bullnose style starter relay (solenoid) it keeps the larger wires farther apart and would look neater imo. I know the newer solenoids are technically better, but with both main lugs on the front like that they are harder to keep tidy imo with the big cables.

Good morning Gary! How's the Sunday coffee?? I'm already working on my second X-large! I can create a write up, sure. I can't take any new pictures as the trucks are gone and I only have what I saved previously. And yes, best time to install a Firewall brace. The reason I posted this morning was that I was thinking about the process of doing this on a truck that did not previously have a hydraulic clutch, and that you need to be somewhat careful as to where the holes go for the master cylinder. I was lucky at the time because I had both Bulls, but most people will not have a second truck to use as a reference.

When drilling the hole for the clutch master cylinder, it has to be in just the right place as it ends up almost touching the brake booster on one side, and almost touching the seam in the firewall on the other. I was lucky when I drilled the firewall in my '80 F150 as I still had the '84 to look at for reference. You can make a template easy enough with a gasket. Not trying to spook you or anything, just making some notes here to go by. If you're technical enough to handle a 5spd swap, you'll be just fine with the firewall mods to make the master cylinder work.

Happy to help on here. It's not that I mind helping offline, but like Gary said at least if it's on here it's captured information;). I swapped a 1991 M5OD-R2 into my 1984 F150 Flareside with 302. It turned out to be a very easy swap in this truck. Truck was a factory manual trans, so it already had hydraulic clutch. The M5OD was only 3/8" longer than the 3 spd I removed, so I was able to re-use my existing driveshaft and slip yoke...it just popped right in there. I even welded an NP435 4spd stick on to the 5spd stub shaft so that my truck looked like it had a period correct transmission in it. Here was the 5spd all painted up and re-sealed before I installed it. Used a rattle can of Cast Aluminum engine paint. Love that stuff! The M5OD shifter seal and bushings are notorious for falling apart (well, they are 30+ years old now). I bought all the seals and kits I think from All State Gear: https://www.allstategear.com/M5R2-RKE-5-Speed-Transmission-Parts-s/1976.htm Good idea to do the front and rear main seals if you are able to, and I recommend these two kits below: I'm a big fan of swapping a 5spd into a Bullnose. I think it is one of the best mods you can do (if not THEE best mod). I'm just a fan of having OD in general, so however one gets there, it's worth it in my mind. I'm currently building a '52 pickup, and I'm installing an auto trans with OD (an AODE/W, or 4R70W). When I swapped the M5OD into my 1980 F150 4x4 with 300/6, I had to do the firewall holes and all that. You can buy the firewall brace from JBG. I believe that is the only place you can buy one now. There was another company making them called Terrapin, but they stopped selling them a couple years ago. https://shop.broncograveyard.com/83-91-Ford-Bronco-Ford-Truck-Firewall-Clutch-Repair-Bracket/productinfo/34010/ If you install a firewall brace (and it IS a good idea), it also acts as a template so you'll know exactly where to drill the three holes in the firewall. I installed a Terrapin brace on my 1984 F150, but when I did the 1980, I made my own brace with 16ga steel, which was smaller, but still functional. And here it was installed in the 1980 cab. Regarding the hydraulic parts...you have to be a bit careful what you use, as the parts changed a few times over the generations. The 1984-1986 master cylinders are the same as the 1987-1991 master cylinders, except for the bolt pattern: If you have to drill holes in the firewall anyway, it doesn't really matter which master cylinder you use, but I tried to stick with a Bullnose master, and the for the hydraulic line and concentric slave cylinder, I ordered all new parts for a 1991, for both trucks. The master cylinders changed again in 1992, and you can use one of them also, but if you do then you'll need a 1992-up hydraulic line and slave cylinder. If you're pulling the hydraulic parts from a donor truck, pull the whole works. If you're buying new parts, then go with a 1984-1986 clutch master, and then order a line and slave cylinder for 1988-1991.

Happy to help on here. It's not that I mind helping offline, but like Gary said at least if it's on here it's captured information;). I swapped a 1991 M5OD-R2 into my 1984 F150 Flareside with 302. It turned out to be a very easy swap in this truck. Truck was a factory manual trans, so it already had hydraulic clutch. The M5OD was only 3/8" longer than the 3 spd I removed, so I was able to re-use my existing driveshaft and slip yoke...it just popped right in there. I even welded an NP435 4spd stick on to the 5spd stub shaft so that my truck looked like it had a period correct transmission in it. Here was the 5spd all painted up and re-sealed before I installed it. Used a rattle can of Cast Aluminum engine paint. Love that stuff! The M5OD shifter seal and bushings are notorious for falling apart (well, they are 30+ years old now). I bought all the seals and kits I think from All State Gear: https://www.allstategear.com/M5R2-RKE-5-Speed-Transmission-Parts-s/1976.htm Good idea to do the front and rear main seals if you are able to, and I recommend these two kits below: I'm a big fan of swapping a 5spd into a Bullnose. I think it is one of the best mods you can do (if not THEE best mod). I'm just a fan of having OD in general, so however one gets there, it's worth it in my mind. I'm currently building a '52 pickup, and I'm installing an auto trans with OD (an AODE/W, or 4R70W). When I swapped the M5OD into my 1980 F150 4x4 with 300/6, I had to do the firewall holes and all that. You can buy the firewall brace from JBG. I believe that is the only place you can buy one now. There was another company making them called Terrapin, but they stopped selling them a couple years ago. https://shop.broncograveyard.com/83-91-Ford-Bronco-Ford-Truck-Firewall-Clutch-Repair-Bracket/productinfo/34010/ If you install a firewall brace (and it IS a good idea), it also acts as a template so you'll know exactly where to drill the three holes in the firewall. I installed a Terrapin brace on my 1984 F150, but when I did the 1980, I made my own brace with 16ga steel, which was smaller, but still functional. And here it was installed in the 1980 cab.

I don't know what that part is, but it's not something I've ever seen in a Bullnose steering column.

Yes it will. I've done two M5OD-R2 swaps. The '92-'96 M5OD will work, but the downside is that you will not be able to connect your speedometer cable. If you want to keep using your factory speedo, you'll want an M5OD from 1988-1991. In 1992 Ford deleted the cable driven speedo and started reading from a sensor in the rear diff. This only applies to 2wd...which I assume you have if it's a factory F100. It's a pretty easy swap in an '84-'86 manual trans Bullnose that already had a hydraulic clutch. In a 1981, you'll need some extra stuff: 1984-1986 Manual trans hydraulic clutch pedal set. 1984-1986 Hydraulic master cylinder. 1988-1991 Hydraulic line (Master to slave cylinder) You'll have to drill a hole(s) in the firewall to mount the master cylinder. You'll want to install a firewall brace at this time (recommended) You'll have to plug the hole in the floor/firewall where the mechanical clutch linkage runs now. If available, you'll want the M5OD factory crossmember. You'll probably have to have a driveshaft made or have your existing one modified. (Depending on the transmission length, maybe not...I didn't have to). If pulling the M5OD from a junked truck, grab the plug/pigtail from the reverse switch if it's available. It'll save you from having to buy a new one. Grab the 5spd tunnel cover from that donor truck if it's available.