Rembrant

That's exactly what I was planning to do in order to get more working room underneath. 18" with a 9" block on the bottom is a great idea. Mine is a little low in the front as it is. On the level concrete floor at work last weekend, I put a 2x8 under each front wheel, and it was then perfectly level. However, the whole thing is pretty low to the ground overall.

Dane, It IS a monster...lol. Took a little getting used to for me to drive this thing around. My daily driver is a little VW. The guy I bought it from did tow with it...it's all set up with a heavy duty hitch and trailer brake controller, etc. He had been pulling a tandem axle car trailer with it, and through the Rockies too. I can't imagine...the thing must have been 50ft long all together. Thanks for the info on the E4OD too. It feels a little lazy in OD, but if I turn the OD off, it works really good then. Be hard on fuel though. Going for an alignment on Thursday, and then I'm going to work on getting all the fluids changed out and get rid of the OBD1 error codes for TPS and EGR.

Ok, I'l make plans to change the trans fluid then. Thanks Gary. I might just swap the output seal anyway if I can get the driveshaft out. I might try to get the thing up one some blocks...maybe some 2x8's or something, at least gain another couple inches of clearance...going to need it for the diff cover.

So my clunky old '93 RV finally got her new MVI sticker today. Finally, 100% road legal and independently inspected/passed. Good for two full years. The shop quoted me 3 hrs labor to change the drag link, and I did it myself in an hour or hour and a half laying on the floor. I had to fix a bunch of other little odds and ends...tail lights (corroded) and propane lines rubbing on driveshaft...ooops...lol, a loose step, and a battery hold-down bracket. Anyway, it's a big relief considering the thing spent the last 27 years in an area with no inspections. It passed with relative ease, all things considered. Anyway, a couple questions: The E4OD. The output seal is weeping a little bit, and I was also wondering if I should change the trans fluid and filter? Any thoughts good or bad? I haven't touched an old auto transmission in a long long time. It is 27 years old, but it only has 74,500 miles on it. What say the experts? Change it or leave it? I was thinking of changing the diff fluid while I was at it, if I can even reach the darn thing. I had a lot of trouble finding a shop that could (and would) do a front end alignment on the stupid thing. Not the weight so much, but the length. So during all this, I went and checked the certification label to get the wheelbase, and it is indicated as 158". Something is up with that obviously, because the wheelbase is more like 218"...lol. Do the RV companies modify the length/frames after they receive them from Ford? Just curious. Random question.

Trying to clear the door handle?>..

Guys, Just curious if everybody else notices all of the for sale items on Facebook Marketplace where the price is $1234, or $111, or $1, etc whatever, and in the message section of the for sale ad the seller comments that Facebook won't allow them to post the actual price. What's up with this, does anybody know? I seem to see it a lot... I sell a fair amount of items on FB Marketplace, and I never have issues listing the actual price.

Yes, and that would have been on the 2.3L turbo 4cyl in the new for 1979 Mustang foxbody. I guess I'll probably just go with another blue grommet ignition module and be done with it. Thanks for the help gentlemen.

I ordered it on Amazon, again, based on good reviews from other people on forums. I get it though, I suppose it could be counterfeit. In any case, I'm going to order a better one. Nice price, although the free shipping is only in the US. I'll check with Napa locally and see what they have.

Very interesting. The delay would only be when the starter is engaged though, ya? That is when the delay circuit would be energized? So, this DSII ignition module I bought...it came in a Ford Motorcraft box, and inside was in a Ford Motorcraft bag, but there are no Ford markings of any kind on the module itself. Clearly it is one that Ford buys and resells...and other non-Ford applications used the same modules, so I guess they did away with the start retard feature on this one. I actually bought this module because of it's good reviews, but I guess most of the people buying these are probably running stock or mostly stock applications, probably with the stock initial timing of 8*btdc, in which case one might not even notice that the module was not retarding during start-up... And I'm running 16-17 degrees btdc initial...so I'm very much advanced. I see there is a DSII module from the early 80's with the white grommet with even extra retard on start...it has 14*btdc which is 10* more than the DSII box with the blue grommet. From the little reading I did, it was used on 2.3t engines in the early Mustangs and Cougars, etc... I'll price the Napa one you mentioned today as well.

The yellow and black wires bit is referring to the DSII ignition module with the yellow grommets, that was specific to the California models. See Ebay picture below... https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1978-1979-FORD-MUSTANG-FAIRMONT-GRANADA-DURASPARK-IGNITION-CONTROL-MODULE/362171666452?epid=1423300045&hash=item54531d1014:g:ESwAAOSwSrNaHgnR However, as Jim mentioned above, sounds like the 300/6 did not have that module anyway. The standard DSII ignition module will have a blue grommet, and two plugs/connectors.

Haha...Ray, I actually don't mind the look of the HEI distributor on the side of the 300/6, but they look really out of place to me on a 302 or 351...lol. On the back of a small block Chevy, by all means!

Well, I'm not one to leave things alone really...lol, but that said, it was one of those things that I wanted to replace and then keep the old one as a spare. My original one was not leaking, but it is really corroded on the underside, and the epoxy is separating from the sides. I didn't want to end up 120 miles from home (or further) and not have one with me to swap in. Well that is good to know. The replacement I bought is a Ford box, but I guess not 100% the same. I don't needs concours originality, but I've seen nice NOS 80's blue grommet DSII boxes on Ebay for pretty cheap, so that seemed like the easiest way for me to get one that I know will work properly...and they have the cool original Duraspark sticker one them;). I'll check on the Napa version. If it's $40 bucks for you, then that means it's probably $100 for me...lol. I was doing some reading, and it looks like the original blue grommet DSII ignition modules retarded 4 degrees during start. Does that sound right to you guys?

I didn't want to Highjack the other thread any further so I popped back here where I belong, and I guess I have some good news! So my truck has been hard to start this spring, and since I did a bunch of things over the winter, I wasn't quite sure what was causing it...other than possibly a lazy 36 year old starter. Anyway, I swapped my old original DSII ignition module back in the truck this morning, and now I have my crisp, clean, quick starts back! So I guess (possibly) my new Ford DSII module does not have the retard function during starting. Maybe I'll keep the new one behind the seat as a spare instead of my old original one with the wires that are stiff as steel. Or start hunting for an 80's NOS DSII module on Ebay.

I already swapped the box, so if the issue stops, then I'll swap the other box back in and test it. That's no big deal...it only takes a few minutes to do.

So if I do that while it is running, you're putting power on the start circuit to trick the DSII box into thinking it is cranking while it is actually running? I might try that. It doesn't take long to swap the whole box either, so I was going to stick the original on and just run it that way a few days to make sure.

Yes, I'm going to check the ignition box first. I installed a new Ford box, but not sure if it is the same as the original or not, so I'll swap the stock box back in for a test. Compression is nothing special, but a little higher than the stock 302 was. From the factory it was 8.3:1 compression and 150 psi per cylinder as I tested it. Now it is 9:1 compression and 175-180 psi per cylinder. Basically the same as any of the later 80's or 90's EFI 5.0L compression afaik. And yes, possibly the starter...the original 1984 starter is still in the truck, so it might be time;).

Great so far Jim. I'm really happy with it, and Scott was a treat to work with on it. I dropped it in the engine, set the base timing exactly where he said to set it, and it's been working great ever since. Just like a Ronco Rotisserie....set it, and forget it! I'm still having a hard start issue sometimes, but I haven't dug into it yet. I'm hoping it isn't the base timing because the thing is working so well I don't want to touch the distributor...lol.

Yes sir, it sure is. That was when I had the bed partially assembled, but the cab still had not been painted. I think if you look closely at the video you'll see that there's no passenger rear fender on the truck. You probably can't get decent sound if watching on a mobile phone, but with the speakers hooked to my laptop, it sure does sound good. Here's my little 302 being broken in on the dyno a couple years ago. We beat on the poor thing all day. I'd love to do it again.

This one still turns my crank every time! I love the sound of them when they're pulling.

I've never really understood that. So you're running base timing plus full vacuum advance at idle? What are your base and advance settings? I don't think I could get my 302 to run right like that.

I was the same. I did redid the entire front end in one full sweep, and my 30+ year old isolators were looking pretty tired.

I installed a set from LMC and they fit nicely. Whether they are needed or not I don’t know, but I’d prefer them to be there personally.

Part of my original plan to was to build a replica of my original Flareside from back in the early 90's...same one pictured above. I was thinking of painting my truck dark blue like my original, and if I had, I may very well have bought one of those roof spoilers, ha! TGIF!

It was screwed to the cab, yes, and had little plastic hex caps on the screws if I recall correctly, and it was painted with the truck. I sold that truck a little over 25 years ago, so my memory is getting pretty fuzzy on it...lol. And yes, it was sealed OK, at least I don't remember any leaks or rust anywhere near the spoiler.

Haha! Look at that, still for sale in Canada. Cool. I almost want it...almost...lol.