grumpin

Welcome! Interesting, should keep you busy. I have relatives in the Merced area. That is one nice air museum in Atwater!

My vote would be on conversion;). I've seen it before, that's why I asked. Interesting.

I agree with you guys. And whenever I see an aftermarket steering wheel I get leary, a lot of them aren't put in correctly and for some reason I like the original steering wheels in cars and trucks. I have a question, is it "normal" for the brake pedal to be as big as one for an auto., or is that a conversion to a manual?

Welcome!

https://medford.craigslist.org/cto/d/grants-pass-1986-ford-f250-4x4/6793584390.html Missing some trim, modified front bumper.

https://klamath.craigslist.org/cto/d/klamath-falls-1979-ford-bronco/6793252883.html

Well, this has been interesting and helpful. I've got to remember the baby powder trick!

Welcome!

Welcome!

Cool! I have Hoop Steps on my truck which I like. And boards that go between the wheel wells on my Bronco, sometimes I like those and sometimes I don't. They're a little tight, as in close to the body. I think if they were lower it would be easier for me to get in.

Why is that? Compression? Just curious, I had a 1988 non turbo IDI, always wished I had a turbo!

Is it a vacuum bleeder? Reverse-bleeding doesn't require any equipment (and it's my preferred method). It's described in this caption: https://supermotors.net/getfile/895333/thumbnail/mastercyl9496.jpg I've used it on my truck, several similar trucks, my car & others, and modern 4WABS/TC vehicles while working at dealerships & independent shops. I've never had to do the 2nd part of the procedure. Steve, thanks, that is interesting. I bought Speed Bleeders for the F250 because I don't always have someone to help me. I haven't installed the Speed Bleeders yet. Ran out of summer!

SCBill, looks good! I think the boards are good where they are, I like them.

https://bend.craigslist.org/cto/d/bend-1996-ford-f250-73l-powerstroke/6749949075.html Wow! Nice! Spendy!

https://bend.craigslist.org/cto/d/prineville-1980-ford-fk-one-owner/6770675376.html Looks nice. I wonder if it's a 351 Cleveland though.

Federal law applies everywhere, and it's just illegal to remove or disable emissions controls. The fact that there are no local inspections means you can get away with it for a while, but the way laws are changing right now, I don't think it'll be "forever" or even as long as you own this truck. So rather than set yourself up for some BIG expenses in the future (when these parts are even-harder to find), I think it's cheaper, easier, & better to just keep them working. But it's your truck. That's what I don't like. Most of the emissions were gone when I got my 1986 a few years ago. Where I live now doesn't require inspections.

Looks nice! I like that truck!

I agree with the others, looking good! But I'm starting to think you have a problem with body work. If you start an "I hate body work club", I would join!

Wow! Interesting!

Good job! Keep it up. I was in a car wreck in 1979, and a very serious car wreck in 1981. I'm limited on what I can do, and it ain't getting any better. Those are great accomplishments and keeps your spirit going!

Depends on the choke heater element - is it (modern aftermarket) 12V, or (old factory) 6V? The only places to get ~6V on these trucks is the ICVR (not practical for this) or the alternator "S" terminal (where the factory wired the 6V choke heater). Read the carb manual to be sure, but I think I can almost make out "12V" molded into the heater in your last pic. Again: depends... If you use the "S" terminal, no fuse. If it's 12V, just splice into a 12V circuit on the engine that's only hot when the engine is running (like the coil or ignition system positive). A fuse is necessary for NEW circuits. A 6V heater isn't new because the factory built the truck that way - you'd just wire it to the factory circuit. If it's 12V: since this is such a low-current addition (probably ~1A or less), it's safe to add it to a much-higher-current factory circuit (one with a 5A or higher fuse). If you have to add a fuse (for ANY circuit), the best place to put it is with all the other fuses, so you can find it when it blows. Read the first 4 captions in this album: https://supermotors.net/getfile/405445/thumbnail/05busbars.jpg Through the factory firewall grommet, inside the factory harness. Use a semi-blunt probe (like a long phillips screwdriver) to spread the wires inside the grommet, and feed your new wire(s) through before they shift back into place. Good job on the coffee table!

I don't remember all you did. Have you made sure your distributor is timed properly, as in, on the number one cylinder and the spark plug wires are in the correct firing order?

That's the one I remember.

Makes it easy to get to things! I like the "catch can"!

Welcome!