Angelo Voltura

I am beyond ready to get back behind the wheel.

I'm currently running a 3" with a 2" on top and a stud through them so they don't move. I'm trying to figure out if I should bump to a 4" block or if the springs will be enough. Finding a tapered 4" block seems to be kind of tough. As far as the frame goes, I'm looking into it as I want this to be the last time I have to do it. I got a buddy helping me who has done this before so I'm interested in hearing what he's got to say. A little clean up went a long way on the frame liner. Looks like the axle will clean up as well. Going to start tear down tomorrow on that. Cleaned up, resealed the cover and pinion. Just need to get these pesky knuckles off and she will be almost ready for assembly. Pardon my mess I haven't had time to clean LOL

I'm currently running a 3" with a 2" on top and a stud through them so they don't move. I'm trying to figure out if I should bump to a 4" block or if the springs will be enough. Finding a tapered 4" block seems to be kind of tough. As far as the frame goes, I'm looking into it as I want this to be the last time I have to do it. I got a buddy helping me who has done this before so I'm interested in hearing what he's got to say. A little clean up went a long way on the frame liner. Looks like the axle will clean up as well. Going to start tear down tomorrow on that.

Made some little progress today. Sitting is killing this truck, rust on the body is starting to show more and more. Pretty soon it'll be time to start swapping panels. Got under it and verified the crack on the outside of the rail has NOT spread past the square hole/relief in the frame behind the shock tower and has remained at the bottom. Woohoo!! Looks like come along and a good bead of weld should take care of that. I have also saved a piece of a Fisher plow push plate that is bent to the angles of the frame made out of 1/4" plate that I'll be welding to the outside of the rail. I was finally able to seperate the inner liner from the donor frame rail I cut out of one of my junk trucks also. What a chore that turned out to be. That's going to be fun cutting it out of my actual truck. Eventually I said to heck with it and just torched the welds and split the rail back with an air hammer and pry bar until it separated. I did find the inner support brace was in good shape so I may make something to clone it but heavier duty. I have also been studying the shape of the frame liner itself and in finding that it'd only made of 3/16 steel I am trying to figure out where I can beef it up and also make some kind of support brace similar to what the Jeep guys use. The donor liner is in better shape than I anticipated thankfully. Also started getting my leaf springs ready for the swap. I am hoping these F250 springs are worth 2" of lift over the stock F150 springs so I can finally remove one of the stacked blocks...either that or I'm going to find I need at least 4-5 inch blocks to keep the height. I think we will be ok though. I seem to remember F350s being taller with a 3 inch block and springs by themselves which is about where my F150 sits height wise with 5 inches and absolutely worn out springs. If anyone has any insight on heights please let me know so I only have to do this once. For reference, the springs I got are Dorman 43-695HD...6 pack with 1 overload for 7 total. Thanks :)

I am not sure if it's been mentioned yet....but double check your lines. If you put them on backwards you'll only have power steering in one direction. It's easy to accidently put them in the wrong hole. I ran into this once and chased my tail trying to figure it out. Double check them before you go blowing some money....I learned the hard way. Best of luck. The box rebuild kits can be bought thru parts stores. They aren't too bad to rebuild.

Pulled the rear end apart and got the leaky seal changed, found out the wheel cylinder I put in last year seized...woohoo. Replaced a wheel stud then as luck would have it stripped the new nut on it...hahaha what a day. Progress!!

I have them stacked right now (total of 5 inches) with a stud through them but I'd like to just use the 3" angled blocks for pinion angle and the springs. I figure the 3/4 ton springs should make up the 2 inches difference taking the top one out, and sit like a 350 which is about where I want it anyway. I ordered rear shackles tonight and planning on getting hardware, so I'm going to add putting them on to my list of crap to do along with a reseal of the rear end as the pinion and axle seals are leaking. This was all stuff I had planned anyway but now I have motivation to do it. Never ending battle it seams... Finished up putting the new tank in today with new fuel line ends and a Delphi pump. No more fuel leak. I was tired of smelling it....now I can weld on it without worrying about blowing myself up.

I have them stacked right now (total of 5 inches) with a stud through them but I'd like to just use the 3" angled blocks for pinion angle and the springs. I figure the 3/4 ton springs should make up the 2 inches difference taking the top one out, and sit like a 350 which is about where I want it anyway. I ordered rear shackles tonight and planning on getting hardware, so I'm going to add putting them on to my list of crap to do along with a reseal of the rear end as the pinion and axle seals are leaking. This was all stuff I had planned anyway but now I have motivation to do it. Never ending battle it seams...

Update. Today I pulled it in the shop to replace my rear tank that had a leak as I decided to fix a fuel leak before welding anything in the front. Turns out the pump was wrong so I emergency ordered a Delphi pump that will be here tomorrow. Someone had been in there as the lines were nylon and my return had a small crack which was where the leak was but the tank is old and crusty so I figured change it anyway. I got the tank out and my boss pointed out the leaf springs are broke....good thing I have a set of F250 springs to put in so I can get rid of the stacked blocks. I knew they were old and worn out but hadn't noticed this yet. My shock towers got delivered to the house today so I'll be getting going on the frame fix here soon.

Make sure you watch the year or measure the width as there are some that are 5.5 inches wide vs 6. Easy to get an oddball in a set.

Yes my buddy and I part out 73-79 trucks on the regular. He bought a 77 plow truck for a couple hundred bucks that we gutted and sold off everything good on and then scrapped it and then gave me the front end out of it. It needs to be totally gone through and the radius arm studs are rotted through but it didn't cost me anything. I would check your frame. It's common enough that it happens on stock trucks too.

Yikes! That is "an issue"!!! The drivers side frame horn actually was twisting enough that the edge of the pitman arm has made contact with the engine crossmember at one point or another. From what I can see I don't believe the crack on the outside of the rail has made it to the top yet.

I ended up just grabbing a Napa box today just to have one. The idea is to replace that section that's welded/riveted on the inside of the rail with a new one and put the tubes in between the inner and outer rail for the bolts to pass through and then brace rhe front horns together. It looks like the factory did some thing like that in between the 3 mounting bolts which is why it didnt collapse in on itself fortunately. But I agree I have never seen one actually bust a chunk out of it. I had heard intermittent popping at, you guessed it, low speeds/not moving but chalked it up to a bad drag link. I guess I found it.... Either way I'm sourcing parts. I'm hoping it'll be a weekend fix but it's going to be a bear getting it done I feel. I wish the service kits were still available. Ford knew it was a problem as far back as 1984. I can't really say I'm surprised with as common as it is on these trucks. As soon as I could barely steer I knew something was very wrong. When you pull into the parking lot and the wheel has made 1.5 revolutions and you are still going straight there is an issue... Either way as far as the axle swap goes I plan on probably just getting the truck mobile as the axle needs a full tear down and rebuild but for free I couldn't say now. Eventually I want to 8 lug swap the truck, I already have rear springs for it and just would have to change the outers on the front axle so it'd be kind of nifty seeing an 8 lug coil sprung F150.

Dad's is a base model as base model gets. Red. White gate letters.

Hello everyone, long time no see. Life is busy! Well it finally happened to me, my 90 finally busted behind the steering box and you all know right where. Apparently the TSB for the rivet was never done and the rivet where the 3 sections meet have begun to seperate causing flex and the crack. Mine broke a chunk about 1"x2" directly at the crease bent around the engine crossmember and around that further most inward bolt. Unfortunately, because it's flexing so much it cracked the rail itself behind the shock tower. From what I can see before I tear it apart is that I believe it extends from the bottom to the square hole just behind the tower and no further. The truck has since been parked. Tonight I ordered a new set of shock towers, rear mounts and hardware (Ebay has a deal for $90 right now. Get all 4). My plan is to get the tower and box off and assess the damage. I'd been hearing some noise but didn't make it in time. Luckily there is a factory brace in the boxed section of the frame...if that hadn't been there I'd probably have rolled the truck. So I am thinking about making tubes that the bolts go through in between the boxed section. It looks like I'm going to have fun cutting the welds and knocking the rivets out with the truck still together... I sourced a front horn from a 96 that the inside piece looks the same and is solid so I've been taking that apart in hopes I can reuse it. I plan on making some tubular gussets to go in-between the boxed section, ordering a Blue Top box and then buying longer bolts so I can nut the box from the back side. The frame horn I cut out had a 1/4" thick plate made to the bends of the outside of the frame rail to support a snow plow that I saved to brace the outside with. I plan on getting a 3x3 piece of square stock and bolting that into the front frame horns to eliminate anymore chance of flexing as apparently the bumper and sway bar cross member didn't do enough. Once this is taken care of I did source a 1977 Dana 44 for a straight axle swap...as nice as my TTB rides I think it's time since I'll be in there.....on the flip side I did just pick up a new fuel tank for it and rebuilt the front brakes, new stainless braided hoses and a couple nycop lines. Pics coming as I get in there. Here's one of the inside. Hard to see rhe chunk missing. Outside crack not shown. You can also see the rather large gap between where the 3 sections meet at the rivet. This picture below shows in red circled where rhe chunk is completely missing. Never have I ever seen one do it quite like this. I also shamlessely painted my wheels 2 tone... So hopefully I'm not in over my head but it's gotta get fixed sooner than later....