85lebaront2

Yes, we tested it at work. It does quite well on steel, we also had a product to test of a similar nature, called "rust dissolving primer" it would absorb moisture from the air and end up a whitish surface you could paint right over. Ospho is just a phosphoric acid solution, I have a gallon of homemade from a friendly chemical engineer.

Let's see, I have two homebuilt PCs, (desktop), a homebuilt server and one older MacBook Pro, one new (2017) MacBook Pro and an HP laptop. The last one was to give me a newer Windows machine for Binary Editor so I can reflash my EEC-V box. Non-computer, an iPhone 5s (don't like the bulk of the newer ones) and an iPad. When I actually wear a watch, it is a nice Vostok self winding one (I hate digital watches). I started with computers (after learning how to use a slide rule, a K&E Log, Log, Duplex Trig that was my dad's) in college in 1964, and IBM 1620 that took up a small room between the actual computer, the punch card reader and the output card punch and the manual card punch machine. This was an item I kept very quiet about when I went to work in the lab at NNS as data retrieval/archiving was done with a very similar system and I did not want to get shanghaied into doing this. Once we got a LIMS system, I did let some of this out and actually ended up doing a bit of computer work for the lab. We lost about 2 months worth of results one time, and I was one of the people helping to restore the database from the hard copies, at one point only our actual LIMS manager had more access than I did, even the supervisors couldn't edit some of what I could. Needless to say only our department manager and LIMS manager knew what I could do.

They appear to be ok, the material is PLA, Polylactyic Acid and seems strong enough, The ones I will be concerned about are the big ones with the spring pieces on the top.

Well, found out none of the wires need extending, once I positioned everything I have about 8 or 9 that actually need shortening. The molding clip samples that were forwarded to Ray Cecil are coming to fruition. He sent me the first set of files and the .stl is what my printer uses. After scaling the part (used the X axis measurement as that is the easiest to determine) I ran a trial at medium setting. it looked great so I did another at the fine setting (more layers for a smoother finish) the results are great! Black one is original, the other two are the printed ones.

It uses the actual converter/bell housing upper right hand bolt as viewed from the back. At least you have a small engine, trying to reach there on a 460 is almost "mission impossible".

Unfortunately I really have no contacts in South Florida so I can't help you there. Maybe look at the members map and see if anyone is near you. You must have had the same clown that worked on Big Blue before Gary bought her.

Bracket would be attached with the upper passenger side bolt which is a 7/6-14 thread probably 2" maybe 3" long. It should be there, unless some "mechanic" left it out.

Two things, you are missing the floating lever for the downshift rod (large rod with a plastic insert in the end) the other after you remove the little black piece attached to the downshift rod is to take one of the balls the throttle cable snaps onto tightly and install it in place of the bolt. In my opinion he wasn't a mechanic, more of a parts changer. When I had my shop if one of my guys had done that he would have been looking for work very quickly.

If only the inner core is broken a lawn and garden shop might have bulk inner wire so you can make a new piece.

Chrysler went to two wire horns in the early 90s I guess so they could put them where ever they sounded best. It may also have been so they just use the horn switch as a ground. On the hoses they are pretty centered in the opening and are also fairly close to the cooler nipples. The opening is also a factory punched hole so the edges are rolled back toward the engine side. Wire, I have a large pile of salvaged wire harness parts, if I can't exact match it, I will add the section in the middle. I like to stagger my splices anyway so the bundle doesn't get too bulky. The number to be extended is TBD, some will not need to be done as I found I had some extra lengths on the injector, power, O2, signal ground, knock sensor and ACT leads. The ones that may are the MAP sensor, BARO read solenoid, purge solenoid and waste gate solenoid. These all mount in the area in front of the right strut tower. The signal ground on the MAP sensor will be the easy one as I have the surplus length on the other sensors.

Ok, time for some more updates. I finished up the transaxle cooler brackets and painted them, got my hoses run and the quick connects installed.

The OUTside HVAC box, with the blower motor & evaporator. Off any '94-96 Bronco or F-series (& '97 >8500GVWR). For the compressor to bolt up, the donor must have the same shape engine (I6, or smallblock V8) as yours. If you also swap the hood latch support. You should also grab the 2 rubber flaps between the grill & core support, and probably the one from the core support to the bumper. Yes, although the '87-early '88 controls & inside box are slightly better, but NOT necessary and a LOT more work to install (the whole dash has to come out). I think you might need to change 1 connector &/or add 1 wire near the accumulator. But generally: yes, the old wiring will work. Steve83, FWIW, I did the A/C system swap on my 1986, but I had already changed the front sheet metal to 1990 for two reasons, first the PO parked by feel and both front fenders were damaged to a degree, second, I was doing an EFI conversion and the 1990 was the donor vehicle. I was already running an R134a conversion on the 1986 system which worked well other than the hot restart, at which time it would take a bit for the air to get cold. Gary Lewis has documented the blend door's lack of complete sealing of the heater core, that coupled with the uninsulated evaporator case was the most likely cause. When I was doing the EFI conversion, I had obtained a complete system, less condensor and 460 hoses from a 1996 F150 that had been flown in the inverted position. I ordered a new 1994-97 condensor from LKQ along with an accumulator and red orifice tube. I found a compressor hose set for a 351 at Pick-n-Pull which worked, but was a little tight across the upper plenum. I later found a set on a 1994-97 crew cab at Pick-n-Pull that someone had tried to drop a 1988-89 460 into. I did score the oil cooler adapter and hoses though. I was able to mount the 1994-97 condensor to the 1990 radiator support with some small modifications and the end result is a system that will freeze you even in our coastal Eastern VA area where the temperature and humidity race each other (temperature will win some days). One item I found in doing this, there are two different compressor clutch assemblies for the 460, one is the same as the 302, which is the one on mine, the other is larger to lower the compressor speed. Since Darth has the 3.55 gear and now the E4OD I am turning 1500 rpm @ 55 mph and rarely see over 2000 rpm on the highway, accelerating, my EEC-V program is set for a max upshift rpm of 4500 due to a somewhat loose engine (had crap in the oil pump and did some lower end damage), when I install the new engine I will raise this to probably 6000 rpm.

A couple of items, first Darth is a CCLB (not that I think they made any CCSB models in the Bullnose models) and also a DRW model if that made a difference in the frames. Second the 4 3/8" dimension is as close as I could measure since the bumper is attached right now. On the bolts, they are some big Metric bolts on Darth, on the pre 1985 models they may be SAE bolts.

In your inbox sir Frame height was measured top to bottom outside the flanges.

I had a Cadillac years ago in the shop, same thing, a little throttle and it would die, stand on it and it would jump. Primary wire was bad, wiggle it just the right way and it would die. I kept GM, Ford and MOPAR stuff on the shelf so I didn't have to wait to get a part from the dealer.

I'm not sure Darth's will help, but will be glad to measure, the rear bumper and V5 hitch were on there when I bought him in 1994.

I am a little late to this because my internet has been extremely strange since around the 1st, it would go out off and on then usually completely go out about sundown. I think it is fixed now. I would try disconnecting the vacuum advance hose, if this eliminates the problem, I would try applying vacuum to it with the engine running, if it is not in the carburetor then it will still act up, I would check the reluctor for chipped edges and check the continuity while applying vacuum. I have seen bad pickup wires cause this exact problem (I have seen it on breaker point systems too).

Gary, the header panel is there, but there was a stamped shallow channel that went across from under the high beam area on each side. It was attached to the radiator support where the center upright is. The fan assembly sort of gets in the way. It would probably be OK as the grille shell is cast metal, but since the bottom of that piece (header panel and grille) is open as it sits right above the bumper I didn't want to leave it potentially unsupported (I'm not a big fan of vibrating headlights). At least it's not a 1985, the grille on those was hinged at the top and spring loaded at the bottom. so there was a lot more in there and no easy way to get around it.

I did some more work on the front area as far as finishing up the pusher fan mounts and making some brackets to replace the original header panel bracing that attached to the center of the radiator support. This ties the inner portion of the headlight pockets to the radiator support so they won't shake going down the road. After getting these done, for one thing, the header panel will now sit in place for assembly without being held, it was transaxle cooler time. The turbo II radiator/intercooler has no provision for a transmission fluid cooler. I had picked up one from a Durango with the 4.7L Powertech V8. This was the only cooler, not an auxiliary one. I was able to fit it horizontally in front of the fan motors, and roughly behind the bumper area where there are two good sized air slots. Header panel brackets

I changed the dash, steering column and brake pedal along with the parking brake pedal. I wanted to get rid of the crackhead wiring on mine. My dash was also cracked in several places, speaker grille (even though it was a factory stereo) had disintegrated. If you use the same inside ducting the Bullnose controls will work fine, same functions. If you change to later inside ducts, as long as you keep a push-pull temperature cable (later ones are dual cable) then everything will work.

I did, because I had a complete system from a 1996 F150 5.0L. I used the compressor and found a compressor set that would work, but later found a 7.5L set at Pick-n-Pull. It all bolts right in, biggest change as far as installing is the wiring harness changes. On a Bullnose the front and dash harness are the same and to put it in simple terms, it starts at the right headlight and battery and ends at the left headlight. Coffin Nose models have a split harness, underhood and dash with a large round plug. Aeronose there are two rectangular plugs, a big one for the underhood harness (12A581) and a smaller one for the rear harness (14405). Dash harness is 14401. With these, the A/C harness is a separate piece that comes through the top of the blower inlet housing along with the vacuum supply and recirc door vacuum. This is approximately where the Bullnose vacuum harness comes through. All the fastener locations are the same so no cutting or drilling was needed.

No necessarily, it is just a better design, I think even the coffin nose (1987-91) is an improved design as far as the blend door. Everything bolts on the same way as long as the bullnose had either A/C or the factory dash vents so the ducts are there.

I converted Darth, the R134a condensor mounts differently than the old R12 one. if you can get the whole underhood system, the R134a evaporator is also larger. The inside has a better blend door that will close off the heater core completely in the full cold position. The end result even in a crew cab with a 460, it will freeze you out in the summer.

But it doesn't tell me which ones. It has a table that should tell, but none of the 4.9's, 5.0's, or 5.8's have the little (4) footnote that says they have it. So I cannot answer that question. Gary, the emission label information (VECI labels) I sent you should help with that, coupled with the pinout charts.

Be glad you have alignment bushings, 2WD king pin front ends do not have them, only possible adjustment other than toe is done by bending the beams (which I had done on Darth 24 years ago). Good point, tires still wear dead even across, last new set of fronts were put on Dec 2014 after I blew a rear outside dual on the way back from WV while on the 65 mph Salisbury MD bypass.