85lebaront2

You have step on the running board to reach them easily. He also has outside handles (that need remounting) so you have one on each B and C post outside then the over the door one inside.

I was looking to see if I had a picture of the ones I put in Darth. They came out of a conversion E150 we scrapped and I have one over each door where you can grab them easily getting in. I will get a picture tomorrow.

Thank you!

Yes, through his Pioneer radio with Bluetooth. The festival is a fundraiser in memory of a Virginia State Trooper killed on US 13. It helps fund Little League baseball and other youth activities. There is a car show and the first trophy was funny, they were selling door prize tickets and had various prices including a vehicle length for $10, I asked if there was a limit and was told no, so I said ok, it's 22 feet long at which point I was asked if it was with me and then told "bring it in and enter" so I did, the next year I just went and entered anyway. Hopefully when the Wuhan Flu is gone it will get held again and I will be able to enter the konvertible.

I received Darth's trophy today, he really didn't seem to care one way or the other, I added it to the other two:

I sent him a text yesterday at 4:30 PM EDT, no evidence he's read it.

Ok, this is a Chrysler EFI pump, it sits at an angle like your rear tank may. I have three pictures of it. First an overall view with the hose it uses for internal connection, pay no attention to the dome shaped piece it is a damper to help keep the pump quieter (tank is underneath the rear seat below the floor): You can see the (very dirty) inlet strainer. Second is a closeup of the hose, this is a high pressure pump, static is 55 psi, rising with boost to 70 psi: Third is a bottom view, the black pieces sit on the bottom of a reservoir "cup" that is filled by a jet on the return (not visible because it is on a different access piece and is actually a hold over from the carbureted cars: I hope these help, I didn't realize had made it to Germany .

Gary, looks like it to me also, but maybe it's the angle, I can't see a strainer on the pump inlet.

It either wasn't put on, wrong type of material or something on that order. I would test it while it is out and make sure it runs, Diesel fuel is close enough in viscosity and less likely to ignite from a spark. I believe the hose is 5/16" or very close to 8mm ID and that shouldn't be too hard to find along with some good clamps. Glad you found it, hopefully before you ordered the new tank and pump.

I just sent him a message too. This is strange, he's usually active from very early each day. He has a sister in Philly, but I have no idea of her name or how to reach her.

Even with equal length axles my konvertible can be a handful when the boost comes up in 1st between the roughly 200hp, torque converter, 2.45:1 1st and the 3.36 I believe final drive, if it doesn't actually light the tires you better have a firm grip on the wheel. It is strong enough that if I "power brake" it so the turbo is spooled up a bit, you will get about 100yds of front tyre spin until it hooks up.

I will answer both your questions here. The tan/light green wire is the control circuit for the fuel pump relay. It is grounded by the EEC to run the pumps. It is initially grounded when the ignition switch is turned to "run" which is why you hear the pump on the frame "pulse". after the initial pulse, the EEC needs to see a signal from the distributor telling it the engine is turning, there is also a signal from the starting circuit which may trigger the pump control circuitry in the EEC. Grounding the tan/light green wire with the key on closes the relay. On your second question, as long as the tank is for a 1985/86 with EFI and the sender includes the pump, then yes, it is what you need. Physically any tank from 1985-1989 with the low pressure in-tank pump will fit in place and work, but, as Gary showed in his "Big Blue" thread, Ford changed the filler piping in 1987 to correct a fuel filling issue that was annoying at a minimum on the styleside trucks and a flat out pain on a dual rear wheel truck. If you can give me the PNs, I can check what you are looking at. I just went to Rock Auto's site, the Spectra tank I come up with is PN F6B, Delphi pump (only) is FE0484, pump and hanger (includes sender) is HP10157. If you have the F6B tank and one of the Delphi numbers you should be good. Before I would condemn the in-tank pump, I would make sure I have power and a solid ground at the plug on top. Power will be the red wire and pump ground is the orange wire. The black wire is sender ground and the two of them are connected together in the harness near the frame mounted pump. I hope you can follow all this, I don't have a good way to put this in German, although at one point I was pretty good at interpreting the instructions on my Marklin 1015 metal building set. I did have the English translation, but it was just text, none of the pictures, so it involved a lot of back and forth for a 12 year old.

Ok, my memory of your alignment was wrong then. I know that toe on 4WD (along with FWD) is a fine balancing act to give decent handling and tire life. At least on a 4WD the front is the "auxiliary" drive where a FWD it is the only drive. I am not sure who first realized that unequal length drive axles on a FWD can and frequently will give "torque steer" but I know Chrysler used them from the beginning on the turbocharged 4 cyl cars as the turbo was originally to bring the performance of the K car based sedans up to what Ford and GM were producing with V6 engines.

Gary, I noticed that when the alignment was finished he had you set at 0° caster, Caster is what helps center the steering and reduces wander. The other extreme was my Shelby 2° positive caster, it would snap the wheel straight if you let go of it. On my 1958 F100 2WD I have no idea where it was set, but for quite a while after I put the 312 in it was prone to a "death wobble" for no apparent reason. Since it sat lower in the front than the 223 did, I bought a pair of 1/2 length helper springs at Pep Boys and installed them on the rear side of the front springs. This had two effects, it raised the front of the truck a bit and rotated the axle beam toward a more positive caster setting. No more "death wobble" and much better directional stability. I have driven a number of miles in a live axle 4WD truck, a USMC M37B1 W/winch. It was a handful at it's maximum top speed of 62 mph. I imagine part of the problem was the trucks sat with rear high empty which probably put the caster at or near 0° and possibly even a slight negative value. I would ask if maybe a 1/2° positive caster might help drivability on pavement.

Good luck with it sir! BTW, if your frame pump is quite noisy it has probably been replaced with an aftermarket pump. The original was a Bosch, which from what I remember from my days in a Mercedes-Benz dealership, looked very similar to the one used on the D-Jetronic Mercedes V8s and the M110 DOHC in-line 6 once Daimler-Benz quit using that Solex Quadrajet. You can probably get one easier than we can here.

Sounds good sir!

There is an in-tank pump that may be bad, it is a low pressure one, if you have two tanks then there is a low pressure pump in each one. The tank selector switch supplies power to the selected tank pump and connects the sender in the selected tank to the gauge. I would try unplugging the frame pump, ground the tan/light green wire at the test connector and see if you can hear either of the in-tank pumps running and if so there should be a hiss of fuel flowing through the supply and return lines at the reservoir. The reservoir contains two diaphragms one for each supply pump and they will move the supply and return shuttle valves to allow the proper flow to and from the tanks. One item, Ford changed the reservoir in 1987 doing away with the internal filter, but the later one should work (same system was used on EFI from 1985-1989) so maybe a 1987-89 might be available. To my knowledge the only difference is the filter in 1985/86 and none later.

Sounds good sir, I noticed the issue on the joining process as my test signup using my Yahoo account I was able to post anywhere as soon as I was accepted.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Maxwell+Smart+I+missed+it+by+that+much&&view=detail&mid=B030AB33BAEE8243E251B030AB33BAEE8243E251&rvsmid=CF9E13E6C0445136ECE0CF9E13E6C0445136ECE0&FORM=VDQVAP That’s funny! Yes it is, I wonder if (a) his shoe phone is working and (b) if he still has the Sunbeam.

No I didn't click the box, I normally don't. The post from him was Sep 16th so it was 8 days ago. New forum is a lot faster!

Yes, it was Fred's brother's middle name, James Preston Pennington. This is a chain of dealerships mostly on Maryland's Eastern Shore, they bought Kool Ford.

I went to the lounge and replied to Jim's comment. No I do not get notifications unless I ask for them (click the box).

Gary, some of the last of the big Lincolns had dual double cardan joints, one at each end. The reason for them is to even the driveshaft motion, the greater the angle the greater the acceleration/deceleration of the drive shaft per revolution.

It wasn't the speed control that caught fire, it was the bottom of the master cylinder mounted cancel switch. It was there for the same reason the vacuum ones have a dump valve on the brake pedal support, if the brake light switch is bad then no release signal is sent to the electronic module. Since the electric one uses no vacuum there had to be another fail safe, The hydraulic switch interrupts the power to the clutch that engages the cable wheel.

The box under the dash for the vacuum cruise control, the electronic one is self contained.