kramttocs

And if you'll notice how little space there is between the B pillar and the bottom seat corner - this doesn't change with supercabs as experienced by those of us that spent a childhood climbing (aka gracefully falling) in and out of that backseat.

Been meaning to post these for a couple years but finally clearing off the bench where it's been laying. Nothing much to say about it, was just curious what it was like inside so cut one on half. Notes: this style (40A) is at least on 86 3/4 ton trucks. Unsure of true application specifics. It does NOT have an opening on both ends like the 1/2 ton ones I've seen - the green Sharpie'd channel is something I drilled entirely. There was not a channel there prior. This is the leftmost horizontal channel in most of the photos before it hits a vertical channel. My 80 1 ton also has openings on both ends. I lost the spring that goes over the Space Needle looking part so it's not pictured.

If you find another and have the means, before you toss yours it'd be great if you could cut lengthways down each side and split it in half. I've always been curious to know what's inside beside the screens and a hole of a certain size. (Meaning, can it survive some time in the oven...)

Agreed - exterior to the cab improvement is all I could think of that the hood mat would help with and like you said, other noises often negate that. Good point in the absorption but do you think that significantly comes through the hood and into the cab? My thought was that any noise going 'up' through the hood wouldn't be noticeable through the windshield while going down the road. Maybe that's a bad assumption though?

Thanks Gary! Most of what I am going to say is opinion/speculation* and trying to recall what I found when I looked into this awhile back but it is an interesting topic since heat and noise remediation can make a huge difference from what was provided stock. I think the other forum discussion revolved around the holes in the hood. As you mentioned, Gary, I believe it was a year thing with the later years all having the holes (used the same mold across engines). I am away from home at the moment so just on my phone but will try to find that external thread later. As for heat and noise here are my non-laboratory-backed thoughts for GAS engines : 1. The hood insulation wouldn't pay off except for looks when opening the hood. Personally, I'd like the Ford embossed version that LMC can no longer legally make/get just for the looks. I think there are better ways to address heat and noise than touching the hood. 2. If wanting to take a diesel-only feature I'd grab the plastic/matting pieces that bridges from under the dash front lip (where the courtesy lights/glove box hinge screw in). This would seem to have more of a benefit to the riders. This would be a super easy addition that would have some benefit. 3. The biggest roi would be addressing the firewall. Dynamite, heat mat, xmat, take your pick. Installing this behind the factory mat makes a huge difference (scientific equivalent of arms stretched out 'this big') for both heat/noise. Same goes for the floor pan, door skins and roof. This would be the most involved since the dash has to be removed. Later trucks and like Gary's underhood HVAC spaceship (to steal Jim's description) used insulation on the engine side of the firewall in the center. This wouldn't be too involved as long as it could be adhered/fastened well. Thinking of the engine heat on the hood itself, I just can't believe it's something we need to worry about in a typical situation. Aside from catching on fire cases, I can't say that I've seen hood (paint) damage that I'd attribute to normal engine heat. Would be interesting to capture some external hood temps from members after drives as well as from those in the hotter states from just sun exposure. I am not, and wouldn't push this on anyone but since it does relate - I am happy with having my electric fan controller kick the fans on even after the key is off if the temp gets hot enough. This goes a long way in reducing heat soak and overall underhood temps after engine shutoff. Interested to hear thoughts from others who have maybe found similar or different results/opinions. * I did some temp readings on my 86 before and after doing the floor work specifically around the areas above the exhaust runs. I don't think I recorded the numbers but do know it was significant. The noise is more comparing my stock interior 80 to the 'improved' 86. From my dads 94 Powerstroke showing the engine side insulation:

That's impressive!

See if this page helps: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/interior-paint.html If not, it may help to know what your goal is. For fabric items, it's often more a matter of what you can get that matches that is more important than a factory color code. I went to a headliner shop and took home their sample book. The upholstery shop (for wrapping a custom center console) let me do the same so I could think on it. I've never tried fabric paint or dye so can't speak to those options.

Welcome! What kind of info?

Welcome! Sounds like an interesting truck. If you decide to sell, we do have a For Sale section where you can describe it in detail with photos for potential buyers to see. Parting vs selling whole (or as whole as possible ) is a trade off between time and money/effort. You will almost always make more selling the parts but you also have a lot more time and work involved. Whatever you decide, glad you joined and we are here to help. Like the mouse eating the elephant - one piece at a time.

Welcome! Glad you joined and enjoy all the photos. Definitely feel free to start a Project thread (it's another folder on the forum) where we can follow along. I found out (and used) about Woolwax (FluidFilm) from another member that lives up North and I'd give that some serious consideration before going the undercoating route. Though you may be referring to that when you say 'undercoating'.

Thanks guys. Hopefully it was just a bad cage and won't happen again It's possible Gary - I could see that area just past the reinforced area getting hot enough (even if the shaft sleeve was hotter) to where the resistance of the vanes cause it to stretch out and eventually tear free. Fortunately as far as replacing things go, this is an easy one but still hope it doesn't do it again anytime soon as it will undoubtedly happen on a 90 degree day

Another important piece is that the shaft didn't spin in the slotted hole. That part was still on the shaft. The retaining washer-thing, also on the shaft did have melted bits squished up through it. Just seems like if the shaft getting hot was the cause then it would have melted out the flat spot and spun inside the wheel. Anyways, probably a fluke but annoyed the cause isn't obvious. To me at least.

Last week I was on the interstate with the AC on when over from the passenger floorboard I noticed a gurgling/fluttering sound. Sounded like bubbling water really so turned off the AC and pulled in at the next gas station. Quick inspection of feeling the HVAC housing and vent [lack of] airflow made it obvious that the fan wasn't right. Upon taking the motor out that evening, found the wheel (squirrel cage) no longer connected. The wheel bouncing around and contacting the spinning shaft plus the house apparently sounds like water to my ears. Somehow the center of wheel broke out or melted out. Hard to say since I had the back window open and door vents cracked for the dog so I don't know when it stopped blowing out the vents. Too much noise and other airflow. Meaning, I don't know if all the melting happened after the failure or before. HVAC housing was perfectly clean still from the rebuild. No sharp pieces of plastic, just melted bits. Fan motor was replaced during the rebuild so it's not super old. Squirrel cage was the original. I do have the blower relay mod. I just can't figure out what caused this. The outer vanes of the canes show light scuffs on a couple of them but I suspect those came when it was rattling around. No chips or anything. Inside the housing was all smooth as well. Ran to the jy this morning and grabbed a few wheels (2 different styles). Cleaned one up and reinstalled everything. Fan sounds as smooth as it did originally and blows hard. The concern is that I didn't 'fix' anything. And I wouldn't have reused the wheel if it had shown any visible issues. Photos to follow

Count me in as another that dealt with this and had to make do. Thanks CJ for stirring the pot

Those do look really good!

Besides the huge selection, the fact that they obviously put forth extra effort to make it easier to crawl under them and keep the area clean from thorns, mud, etc blows my mind.

Welcome aboard! Glad to have you

Was checking the weather and noticed a "seen better days" Bullnose in one of the ads.

Sorry to hear that. Nothing compares to a pet like that.

My thoughts on that and I know this isn't a yes/no like you are asking - The mechanical fan WILL cool a 460 in our trucks. Going to an electric setup CAN cool a 460 in our trucks. If the mechanical is having issues cooling, then addressing the root cause should be done before looking to electrical.

Welcome! That interior color with the woodgrain really look good together.

Slick! What material did you use?

For your homemade shroud are you going to mold it or in some way funnel it towards the off center fan? I don't think I'd want to do a single off center fan with a flat shroud.

Definitely - thanks for pointing that out as I should have clarified. Here you can see a top down image and the comment that even if it was all lined up there is still clearance. Now, my 'plenty' may not the the same as someone else