kramttocs

Seemed valid with Gary just adding that page Is that step yours Shaun? Edit: nevermind, found the eBay thread on it. Neat piece.

Thanks Bill. I've used the lever when testing the brakes but don't think I have when driving so was curious. The two contacts makes sense.

My father would have said "If that's a compliment I thank you." Scott - Good documentation, and well done. In fact, with the numbers off the CB unit documented here I see no reason to preserve them. So the brake controller itself is mounted, but the remote will go in the recess to the right of the steering column? Seems like a really good plan to me. It's a compliment for me no doubt Worst case on the cb, I guess I could always make a sticker from the photo and reapply. On the brake controller, you are correct. It has maybe a 30" lead on a dial and indicator light. You can see them in the bottom left corner of the cubby here when I was making sure they'd reach.

Even that right there is helpful to file away for later use. Never would have thought to look on an old mower for throttle cable pieces or whatnot. If you find those photos I think a how to would be great. From the photos it looks like you have a really good jy selection. .

On another topic- Ever since Shaun posted the NOS CB mic, I've been intrigued by that offering so picked this up the other day. The primary reason was the bucket seat mic holder. I've already coated the brackets but I am wanting to coat the case. Before I go scraping this sticker off, do any of the numbers matter to the point of needing to put them back after? Any other numbers/letters are stamped.

This post can be ignored by 99% of readers as it is really getting into the weeds over trivial matters. That and it deals with some specific non-factory parts that aren't particularly common. Debated whether or not to even post it but figure it might give some general ideas to someone. I took the modified dash support mentioned above and marked, drilled, and tapped the hole in the brake support. Tapping it was entirely unnecessary and if done again I would just drill it out for 1/4 bolts. Once I got that hole in, I lined up the GVOD control unit and did the same for the second hole ensuring there was plenty of clearance on all four edge sides to connect the wiring. Added some foam to the back of the gvod unit and bolted it on the inside of the brake support. Next I installed the additional support and tightened it down. Even though with the parking brake installed there wasn't a lot of movement, after adding this it was rock solid. The rear bolt is longer than the front one. The reason for this is that after the nyloc nut holding the brace I am installing a remote flasher holder. It hasn't arrived yet but looks like this: This is to accommodate the taller led flasher for the hazards. The front bolt will be used to mount the brake controller. The brake controller is a remote unit that comes with a slip in mounting bracket. I needed something at a right angle but like the modified brace, I wanted something that came from these trucks. The bracket that holds the 'black box' to the center brace support gusset worked perfectly with little modification (aka flattening out a bend). Here is the bracket after already being flattened some: And here it is with the brake controller bracket after being cleaned up: These bolted together and attached to the controller like so: Installed a star washer to prevent any rotation and bolted it on. Test fit the wiring and this position allows it to connect directly to the factory trailer connector as well as allowing the control knob to reach the cluster bezel cubby. [Just to prevent any confusion - in the Factory Trailer Wiring thread I started yesterday, I said that the brake switch spliced wire was brown but as seen in the photo above, it is yellow. I only said brown to avoid having it be the same color as the yellow on the factory wiring harness. ] Would some zip-ties, rubber bands, or bread ties have worked just as well? Yes and no doubt be easier to work on in the future when one of these components needs replaced.

Also not dealing with leaks but with the cosmetic approach - While the truck was in the body shop I picked up a new MC and booster. The MC I disassembled and powder coated. The booster I painted with Eastwoods brake booster paint. Both look really good right now but neither have seen any usage so can't speak to longevity or how they hold up to any fluid that may get on them be it short or long.

Does that not also apply the trailer brakes?

I get the trailer wiring is only with the Trailer Option but what is the chassis/flareside specific piece in the diagram that doesn't apply to stylesides (off topic likely but would like to know)? So turns out for my truck that tracking down R/LG doesn't seem to matter. I started to do some continuity checks but after all of them failed I realized I hadn't routed and connected all the wiring under the booster While I was by the rear bumper looking at the 7 way plug I notice up near all the connectors there was a R/LG wire with a female barrel connector not connected to anything. I had actually dug dirt out of the connector and stuck a male plug in there to keep it clean right after I got the truck but had forgotten about that. Looks like it's a second way for the lights as you said, Dane. I'll let it go for now until I get power back in the truck and test it out. Thanks all! As a side note, did get the brake controller installed and will cover that in the build thread later tonight.

Definitely what page 77 looks like. What is the 'chassis cab and flareside only' box beneath the 'trailer only' referring to? If LG/O and O/LB are the brake lights also then we are back to the redundant R/LG wire Even though I don't have power, I may do a continuity check today.

Thanks Bill. Correct -all that is there. I am just trying to figure out the R/LG that is on the pigtail under the dash. I can't find where it goes to in the EVTM. Dane - definitely frustrating. Any reason for it other than to provide brake signal to the controller seems redundant like you said. So you are thinking the trailer brake lights come on even with the R/LG disconnected? I guess that is really the determining factor because that has been the assumption I have been making but if you look at it the other way then the book makes more sense. R/LG wouldn't show up anywhere else in the EVTM besides page 30 (in 1986) because that is the actual 7way trailer plug. So still looking at it this way where the trailer brake lights don't work without R/LG connected and considering Bill's point about the hydraulic controllers then Ford was still requiring the owner to splice into the brake pedal switch. But with a hydraulic controller the splice would just feed the trailer brake lights. With an electronic controller the splice would need to feed both the trailer brake lights and the brake controller.

Truck came with factory trailer wiring and I am trying to figure out the R/LG wire. Here is what I have. The red is the text from the labels on the factory harness and the brake controller manual. The PO had the R/LG wire unused and the Red wire on the brake controller was hooked up to the switch Brown spliced wire. I am trying to figure out exactly what the R/LG wire does. If it said FROM instead of TO in the EVTM then I'd say hook it to the red wire on the brake controller and it would be the braking source instead of the spliced in wired on the switch. Wouldn't expect the trailer option to still require the user to splice into the switch... Looking in the EVTM I can't find R/LG anywhere but on the Trailer Option page. The connectors on the Trailer Options page haven't led me anywhere either. (The truck isn't wired up enough to test power to anything) Photo below from the EVTM for easy reference. Again, if the R/LG at the bottom left said FROM then I could see it as being the source for the brake controller and the splice at the switch could be removed/unused.

No, edited my post immediately but not before you got notified. They are just the typical relayed setup. Was actually discussing this with a family member earlier and since it's on the relay topic - fords4life, how are you doing the fuses? Inline Relay with built in blade fuse holder Multi relay/fuse block ?

Agreed! I see that there is a carb circuit also that uses a connector. May be another point where an accessory could be added in if unused.I am going to see about that in the jy later this week and can take some photos if no one else has any handy and posts them before then.

Another vote for doing this. My truck was already wired with the relays when I got it and there is a noticeable difference in the light output between it and the 80. Also the pulsing at idle is a non-issue.

Gary, you are absolutely right. I was reading this entirely wrong. It had never dawned on me that if you don't have those options but want to add some other accessory that you could use one of those snap in connectors and have factory looking fused wiring (assuming load is acceptable) so I'll blame it on being excited by that revelation thanks to Frank . The 1980 doesn't have the illustration like that but still shows the same thing in the diagram.

Apologies if I am missing something but with 1960 and 1962 being the power windows/locks it would just require [carefully] taking those connections out of another truck and inserting them into your fuse block. Just did this the other day. 1961 is a new one to me but I am interested in why it says aux battery AND clock/4wd indicator. I just have the 1980 EVTM handy at the moment and while it's different (the power windows only being for the bronco rear) it also has the W/P wire from the block going to the Accessory Safety Relay (aux battery relay). The diagram for the aux battery shows power going to the 4wd indicator, clock, and speed control amplifier. I don't want to get too far off your question Frank but did those things really get their power from the aux battery (if present)? Visiting the online 1986 EVTM I see that 1961 is then just for the 4wd indicator. I noticed when installing the power window/lock connectors that there was another similar plug in connector on the back but didn't trace the wire. So it would seem that one could easily pull those connectors from other trucks and have factory fused live power.

Having those part numbers will be great. While it would be quite the endeavor and possibly impractical :), having a catalog that matches the connector purpose and location (like "Cab Marker Lights behind drivers kick panel"), to the Ford part, to a current offering would be nice. Just dreaming. So. About that flexing dash I mentioned when I tested the hood release. I checked on a parts truck and it didn't have near the movement (in Camano it's a LOT) although I could see how it could cause some overall creaking like you mentioned Gary. Then it dawned on me that I haven't installed the parking brake yet which will connect the dash to the firewall Of course this was after I came up with an easy solution. Well not as easy as installing the parking brake but... Turns out that a little heat and some bending will turn a spare passenger side dash support brace into a perfect brace just to the right of the hood release handle. On an automatic at least. Before bending: After bending (and a quick blast to make it show up in the next photo): Test fit: The next step would be to drill a hole through the brake support and bolt that end of the new brace to it. So there you have my solution to a non-existent problem. That said though - I've been planning to mount the GVOD control box to the brake support so I was always going to drill two holes in it to bolt that on. I figure since I already have the brace I will install it but move the GVOD control to the inside (it will easily clear the booster rod) and use the brace bolt as one of the bolts for it. Plus I think I can use the brace itself as a mounting point for the brake controller.

That thing is incredibly clean! And safe to say the bed under that plush carpet looks just as good.

That's great!

Scott - I'm not sure I understand. Please explain so's I do understand. Looking in the MPC I'm seeing stuff I'd not seen before. Here's an example. Would this help in the documentation? Like the barrel-type wedgelocks, I was just trying to find the spade style as I need to replace the female connector for the cab lights. Having that page in the documentation would be great, especially if we can find some photos to go with them. Again, the ones I posted I can't guarantee. I was just going off what I had in the truck and then pictures in listings I found. Cab light male: Cab light female:

Yeah, I wish a lot of the FTE photos were still around-lost a lot of good info. For example I would be interested in seeing the threaded piece you talked about. I didn't even think to search for another post on this before I dove in but should have if nothing else to know what was inside the plastic non locking housing. It would have helped with the "oh, I sure hope this works and I didn't trash a good part" feeling after I heard that first crack in the vice

This afternoon was getting more little pieces added to the truck but primarily installing the hood release. I am installing a locking hood release (tumbler disabled as previously mentioned) in place of the non-locking one it had. Unfortunately the grommet was all cracked and partly missing on the locking one as well as the end loop being pretty rusty and about to fray. The non-locking cable was in great shape though so decided to see if I could use the cable from it. Just now I did a search to see if anyone has done this and funny enough, I found what sounds to be a very similar process from Shaun over on FTE in 2011. The process- The lengths of the cables are the same so no problems there. The issue comes with how the cable is attached to the handle. The NL (non-locking) release has the handle and cable as a single unit whereas the L (locking) release uses a small ferrule on the cable that fits into a slot in the handle. Removed the NL handle from the housing by placing it in a vice until it cracked. I then pried it apart until the housing was gone. The cable sheathing is adhered to the housing so it took a little work to remove it but it all came off cleanly. Next was to cut the end off the handle where the cable is attached. While on the NL unit it's a hexagon shape vs a pill shape like the L unit, fortunately it will fit in the L housing with a little filing. Lined up the two cables with the inner cable pushed all the way in and marked where to cut the cable off the NL handle. Part of the handle will remain as this is the new ferrule. Unfortunately I didn't get any photos of this. The L unit cable has a retaining ring piece adhered to it that we need to get onto the NL cable. You can see it here in the vice: My hope was that I could heat it with a heat gun while pulling on the cable and the cable would slide out of the ring piece easy peasy. No such luck. It did come apart but it left some of the sheathing in it. I used a drill to clean it out. It was a bit of a pain because there is a fine line between the ring spinning and crushing it in the vice. Eventually it was clean. Here you can see the ring next to the previously cut off handle (now ferrule) that it needs to go on. I picked up some loctite plastic glue (all types) since I didn't want to rely on just a friction fit. Even with the ring cleaned out, dry fitting it wasn't happening. Because having some valleys (like the crimp marks in the sheathing) are a good thing for the glue to bite into I didn't want to shave the sheathing down smooth. Instead I used a 7mm tap/die to thread both pieces. This allowed the ring to thread on there while still retaining valleys for the glue. Applied the activator/glue and then threaded the ring so the end of the sheathing was flush. I have no doubt the glue would have been enough but I wanted to put some adhesive heat shrink on it anyways. While it was out I applied a few drops of oil into the sheathing. The rest is just placing the ferrule in the housing and handle, bolting the two housing halves together, and installing it all in the truck. I never paid attention to it before in any of my trucks but I noticed the dash flexes quite a bit when pulling the hood release. Has anyone done anything to prevent this? There is a hole in the dash support with a speed nut in it that I don't believe is used for anything (at least on my truck) that lines up pretty closely with the side of the brake support. I am thinking about drilling and tapping a 6mm hole in the brake support bracket close to the firewall and installing a brace. Thoughts?

Jim not a big deal. Also I installed my radio not long ago and before that I had to graft that area of the plastic dash from my non-ac trucks dash to the ac trucks dash I wanted to use so kind of knew of the area he was working in. Dave ---- Gary - I believe these are the part numbers for the spade terminals. Going off pictures and references in different listings so I can't guarantee it's entirely accurate. *Female: E7EB-14474-EA, D8BB-14474-BA, D3AB-14474-DA, A14889 *Male: E7EB-14421-AA, D20B-14421-BB, A14890, A20815 Female: Dorman 638805/85348, E8EB-14474-VA, NAPA 725277 Male: Dorman 85349, E7EB-14421-AA, NAPA 725276 Female: Dorman 85353, E7EB-14474-CA, NAPA 725286 Male: Dorman 85347, E7EB-14421-EA, NAPA 725282 The * ones are the ones I am pretty sure are the same as the cab light connector. I ordered the Napa barrel terminals so I am going to see if they work better than the ClipsAndFasteners.

You bet! I'll scan the instructions and send you another folder later with it and the photos.