1986F150Six

Did the readings of the fuel and oil pressure gauges read high as well?

I do not know the answer, but I find it odd that the listed prone-to-foul plugs are in cylinders 1, 3, 5 & 6. What came to my mind is that the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Is it possible that the distributor cap has arcing issues?

A beauty!!!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1981-Ford-Bronco-Light-Truck-A-C-Evaporator-System-Bezel-Kit-dp/263687965977?hash=item3d65070d19:g:4CMAAOSwKRBa-jAN Notice that the kit includes the control panels for single tank, dual tank and rear window [bronco].

Thanks. I could not find a Ford one at this time. I did find a Dupont chart, but it was blurry.

PPG chart: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/UvsAAOSw9GhYYyjF/s-l1600.jpg

And right wife!

Did you notice if the grass needs mowing?

Done!

1984 F150 with 4.9L engine [feedback system still operative]. This is my son's truck and he is out of the country, so I have had time to work on this as time permits. The engine was idling @ 950 - 1050 RPMs and was not smooth. At this idle speed, which remained the same even with the idle screw all the way out to the point that it was not touching the throttle body, the vacuum was 18 1/2" Hg. My 1986 F150 with 4.9L engine and Duraspark conversion pulls 21 1/2". The idle air fuel mixture screw had to be turned out ~5 turns for best idle. Much time has been spent searching for the cause. All vacuum hoses, intake manifold junction, carburetor base and EGR adapter have been sprayed with copious amounts of carburetor cleaner without revealing the leak. Sometimes, when spraying near the #4/5 cylinder intake manifold junction, I thought I could detect a slight variation in engine speed and also when spraying near the carburetor base on the firewall side, but when repeated, the change would not repeat? All vacuum hoses have been pinched close with no change to engine speed. The EGR valve has been temporarily blocked and this did not solve the issue. I have done the "jiggle" test to the wiring harness and nothing showed up. Not only did the engine not idle well, it missed @ ~1250 RPMs when under a very light load and bucked when decelerating. I have posted and asked questions of forum members, respected local technicians as well as retired engineers and had not found the answer, until this past weekend. After an Internet search, I found on Youtube where a professional automotive technician asked the question, "do you have a high rough idle?" and proceeded to tell that he had a smoke generating machine which he used in searching for vacuum leaks. He is quite good and showed how a Do-It-Yourselfer could duplicate this quickly and inexpensively, so I did and was absolutely amazed how quickly and easily done. I purchased a $0.69 cigar! With the engine off, I taped the mouth of the carburetor with duct tape. I then took the vacuum hose which normally supplied vacuum to the temperature sensor on the air cleaner, which was available since the air cleaner was off. I lit that "bad boy" and after taking a deep draw, blew into the vacuum hose. I placed my thumb over the vacuum hose and took another deep draw and blew into the vacuum line. With the 2nd attempt [very quick], smoke was evident in a place I did not know existed. On the intake manifold is what I call a vacuum tree [distributor?] which Ford used on all 4.9L engines. Depending on the trim packages, options, etc. some, but not all ports are used. The remaining ports are capped with rubber boots. Also, keep in mind that since this vacuum distributor [tree?] is threaded in, the ports may be oriented differently. WELL, there is one unused port nearest the engine block, which in this case, is pointed downward, nearer the exhaust manifold. As a result of its location, the 34 year old rubber cap has been exposed to much heat and had dried out. The end of the cap was missing and the hole is about 1/2 - 2/3 the size of a pencil eraser. Do you think that could cause the previously described symptoms??? Due to the location, which cannot be seen due to the myriad of vacuum hoses, etc., the typical "hiss" could not be heard since the port was facing downward and in the vicinity of the exhaust manifold. Nor could it be "hit" with the copious amounts of spray. Occasionally, as I sprayed the intake manifold joint near the #3-4 cylinders, I thought I could detect a difference as well as when I sprayed the carburetor base and EGR adapter area, but could not get a repeat when I tried again. In hindsight, what was happening was at some times, the angle was just right and some vapor must have reached the open port. I carefully used a screwdriver and removed the hardened residue and replaced the cap with one "I just happened to have" [thank you, Lord!]. I then repeated the smoke test and no other leaks were detected. After removing the duct tape from the carburetor opening, the engine leapt to life at a rather steady 450 RPMs [compared to rough 950 - 1050 RPMs]. The idle screw, which had been loosened to a point that the screw did not even touch the body, had to be turned many times just to raise the idle to ~650 RPMs. I then adjusted the idle air fuel screw which had to be turned in about 2 turns, and left as is. The idle vacuum, which had been ~18 1/2" now is 21 1/2". This morning, I drove it to work [~13 miles] and it is one happy engine with no missing or bucking!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1478167-vacuum-leak-detection-effective-and-inexpensive.html

I used duct tape to cover the mouth of the carburetor. As Gary said, that will allow you to pressurize the intake system with the smoke. [i used a Swisher Sweet!]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-81-82-83-84-85-86-Ford-Truck-Bronco-Door-Panels-Tan-Chrome-Inserts-Manual/132617578240?hash=item1ee09fa700:g:2AgAAOSwWwVa9EKl

Its something I am proud of...yes. sorry for bragging. Im not convinced this bullnose is mine. It could be!

It would look good in his new "bigger than the Garagemahal" garage!

Wonderful memory. Thanks for sharing!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1986-80-86-Ford-truck-Bronco-dash-radio-DELETE-bezel-trim-GRAY-Black/132632303925?hash=item1ee1805935:g:RZYAAOSwQKlbBBtX

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-86-Ford-truck-Bronco-F150-F250-F350-dash-gauge-cluster-bezel-AC/132579584054?hash=item1ede5be836:g:YvwAAOSwxwRaz5G4 Note how switch panel is mounted with clamps!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-81-82-83-84-85-86-Ford-Truck-Bronco-Door-Panels-Black-Woodgrain-Inserts-Power/173296109881?hash=item285940c939:g:SLQAAOSwidFau5pj Notice that the "donor" had power mirrors. Come to think of it, I may have seen this before?

Long live the "dirty"!

https://www.idealclassiccars.net/1969-chevrolet-camaro-z-28-rotisserie-restoration-hugger-orange-c-117.htm

Good input Jonathan and Gary!

One final stab... maybe, someone over-tightened the bottom screws which secure the instrument cluster. Perhaps the plastic, in which the screws hold, was broken [?] and the screw then bit further in and pulled the bottom of the instrument cluster forward???

As to the molding idea, get some weather stripping foam with the sticky backside [Lowes, Home Depot], but that will only hide the gap and not find out why. I would take it all apart... there has to be a reason. By the way, on the YouTube video, the man had difficulty removing the electrical plug and kept tugging. I believe there are two tabs on the ends which need to be squeezed and the plug will come out. Regarding the speedometer, you feel for the round end of the cable, where it attaches to the speedometer head and shift it to one side. It is spring loaded and will only come off one way. Once you get it off, you will easily understand how it reattaches. I look forward to hearing what you find.

2018 Ford Focus RS; 2.3L 4 banger with 350HP & 350 ft. lbs. torque!!!