1986F150Six

Welcome to our forum, Keith! Wow, I am jealous of what you have in your corral!

Thank you!

Disconnect the throttle cable, to assure it is not binding. Perhaps the openings in the spacer are a little too small and the butterflies are sticking. I don't think the engine is over carbureted. Many are successfully using 500-650 CFM carburetors. Don't forget to cover the carburetor opening for the smoke test. Duct tape works fine. My son's 4.9L idled @ ~1300 RPMs with a hole in the end of 1 very well hidden vacuum cap.

Never had that problem!

Do a "search" on this forum for: Replacing Slider Rear Window with solid glass - good idea? Which gasket do I use? CountryBumkin 11/12/2019 [i could not get a link, sorry!] It may have some helpful information.

Hmmm? The six cylinder has little heat on the driver's side.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1984-1991-Ford-F150-F250-F350-Speed-Control-Vacuum-Valve-Bracket-E5TZ/193397385528?hash=item2d0761e938:g:Z4sAAOSwtVZefJLz

Good price, if correct and properly rebuilt. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rebuilt-Holley-4V-Carburetor-w-Electric-Choke-for-1979-83-Ford-Truck-part-8343/184226283164?hash=item2ae4bdfe9c:g:h80AAOSw0zdee-lK

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-80-96-FORD-PICKUP-TRUCK-REAR-WINDOW-WEATHERSTRIP-SEAL/233539039988?epid=1330710168&hash=item366002f2f4:g:fA8AAOSwjVRee52p

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1980-81-82-83-1984-1985-1986-FORD-F100-F150-F250-F350-BRONCO-XLT-CAB-EMBLEM/143564659259?epid=1822260700&hash=item216d1eda3b:g:fXkAAOSwLRpee8qp

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-Ford-E0TZ-7C421-A-Transfer-Case-Oil-Pump-Kit-For-BW1345/184226243109?hash=item2ae4bd6225:g:Cs0AAOSwYbNee9~Z https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1981-82-83-84-85-1986-1987-FORD-F150-BRONCO-TRANSFER-CASE-OIL-PUMP-KIT/143564658909?hash=item216d1ed8dd:g:tmMAAOSwgTpee8mz

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-81-82-83-84-85-86-FORD-F100-F250-F350-Lower-Shift-Selector-Lever-Extension/312586382061?hash=item48c799aaed:g:PPYAAOSwLVZVqrno

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1984-Ford-F100-F150-F250-F350-Gas-Fuel-Tank-E0TZ-9002-D-OEM/254551864773?hash=item3b447935c5:g:g8AAAOSw9jdefLF9

I wonder how low it will go? I mean the tanks have to be stuffed full everywhere by now. The price has to have a floor, but I wonder if they'll keep dropping it to try and keep it moving... I saw $1.749/gal., this morning.

If replacing pistons, the pistons used in 1996 [maybe 1995, too?] were said to be improved. They are hyperutectic and equipped with metric rings, with less friction. Like these [unfortunately, these are +.030"]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/x6-New-OEM-Engine-Piston-pin-030-F6TZ-6108-CBA-For-1996-Ford-4-9L-300-I6/333314908958?epid=1237572785&hash=item4d9b1de31e:g:k1AAAOSwJQxdbDIE

I was raised in Alabama and each morning, we thanked God there was Mississippi!

Welcome, Johnny!

As a child, I was told that it is wise to surround yourself with wise people and you will learn. It still holds true!

I believe the studs are pressed in. Perhaps this information will be of assistance: by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:35 pm Regarding head studs and rocker arms I have seen many posts by puzzled visitors. This may be because there are several kinds: Early engines had pressed in studs of a nominal diameter of 3/8 inch and a 3/8-NF thread on the end. These studs were for rockers of the adjustable variety, using a locking nut to maintain the proper adjustment height. The rockers may have looked like the cast type or the stamped type. Later, some heads had pressed in studs of a nominal diameter of 3/8 inch and a 5/16-NF thread on the end. These studs were for non-adjustable rockers in that the 5/16 nut was intended to be torqued down tightly against the 3/8 shoulder. All adjustment was taken up in the lifter preload. I'm pretty sure heads of the above two types all had slotted pushrod holes to maintain rocker alignment with the end of the valve. These slotted holes need to be carefully milled out to .380 / .385 if 3/8" pushrods are to be used. Or, alternatively, they could be enlarged and pushrod guide plates installed with screw-in studs. Finally, late model carbed engines and all EFI engines used a pedastal mounted stamped rocker arm that was held down by 5/16-NC cap screws. These also are of the non-adjustable variety. The heads have round pushrod clearance holes. Rocker alignment is maintained by stamped steel channel pieces that capture two adjacent fulcrums. Installing screw-in studs in these heads requires using pushrod guideplates. Regarding screw-in studs: The pressed-in studs may be removed and the resultant hole used as a pilot for the 7/16-NC stud. This usually requires milling the boss down to get the screw-in stud at the correct height. Screw-in studs have either a 3/8 nominal size or a 7/16 nominal size (but they all use a 7/16 threaded hole) and the hole in the rocker fulcrums must match the size of stud you are using. Good luck. FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-96-Ford-Truck-F-150-250-Bronco-Battery-tray-brackets-5-Mounting-bolt/362886437535?hash=item547db79a9f:g:3L4AAOSw6GJeIzgT

Beautiful!! Swallow hard! https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Ford-1980-1986-F150-Truck-Tailgate-Trim-Panel-1981-1982-1983-1984-1985-nos/124127942557?hash=item1ce69a179d:g:FGoAAOSw3adeeTB0

Hmmm? https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Battery-Tray-Support-Bracket-80-86/productinfo/38020B/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLAs-$50_orless&utm_term=TRI%20PLUS&utm_content=BroncoGraveyard&msclkid=66aa612d1c88150eeddb3f568f2c48c0

Hmmm??? "Another clueless seller?"

Includes switches: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1986-Ford-F150-Door-Panel-Passenger-Side-F250-F350-XLT-Nice-Color-is-Tan/324034627089?hash=item4b71f80611:g:VJkAAOSwL05eE9Ys