1986F150Six

Speedometer has trip meter. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1986-Ford-F150-250-Gsuges/293582350534?hash=item445adf28c6:g:OpMAAOSwZgBewGgj

Good daily driver condition. https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-86-Ford-Pickup-Truck-Bronco-Factory-Steering-Wheel-Woodgrain-Horn-Center-Pad/264737918966?hash=item3da39c0ff6:g:Y7kAAOSwsnpexfAj

I was describing my way of testing a tachometer before the installation. Wiring directly to the terminals, without any part of the original circuitry being used, will prove if the tachometer is a working unit. Way, way back, on another forum, a guy wanted to add a factory tachometer. He hardwired the tachometer as I previously detailed because the printed circuit [ribbon] he had was from a truck w/o factory tachometer.

I am late to this party... my son's 1984 with feedback system was "born" without a tachometer. I removed an instrument cluster from a V8 truck and was afraid to fool with the printed circuit, so swapped my son's gauges into the tachometer cluster rather than swapping just the tach. It was plug and play and the tachometer worked. All four of the tachometer terminals were left intact. I suspect that there is a wiring fault [ground]? I believe that even if both ground terminals [G & 8] of the tachometer were grounded, the tach would still work, but incorrect scale. I suggest you remove the tachometer and temporarily run wires to the terminals. I have done this under the hood. Run a ground wire to the "G". Run a wire to the coil [green wire] and connect to "Sig". Connect a wire from the "B" to a 12 volt source. Fire up the engine and see what happens.

Any of these help? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-85-Ford-Truck-Dash-Wiring-Harness-NO-AC-OEM/174238066503?hash=item289165e747:g:CjIAAOSwxDFehQXQ https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-1986-85-86-Ford-Truck-Chassis-Wiring-Harness-Dual-Tanks-Regular-Cab/173334146105?hash=item285b852c39:g:QTkAAOSwzbVbBzBx https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-86-Ford-Truck-Bronco-EFI-Dash-Wiring-Harness-W-AC-Fusebox-OEM/174271288751?hash=item289360d5af:g:O14AAOSwSjlesAHT https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1986-80-86-Ford-Truck-Bronco-Alternator-Wiring-Harness-OEM/174238070062?hash=item289165f52e:g:PhEAAOSw8QRehQfV

Here is one from 1988: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-85-86-FORD-TRUCK-BRONCO-85-91-VAN-HORN-PAD-W-CRUISE-E8UZ-13A805-C/352881095605?hash=item52295a33b5:g:KwAAAOSw~QVd6qX0 And a Dennis Carpenter reproduction for 1987: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HORN-BAR-SWITCH-AND-PAD-80-86-FORD-TRUCK-80-86-BRONCO-E7UZ-13A805-A/283798851532?epid=1722188429&hash=item4213bacfcc:g:gWMAAOSw9EteWWSB

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-1986-FORD-F150-F250-F350-ALUMINUM-TAILGATE-TRIM-PANEL-RED-REFLECTOR/184239853981?hash=item2ae58d119d:g:ABYAAOSwgoNeiQ1T https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Ford-1980-1986-F150-Truck-Tailgate-Trim-Panel-1981-1982-1983-1984-1985-nos/402205806920?hash=item5da5559148:g:FGoAAOSw3adeeTB0

You may have, but if you did I confess to not remembering...refresh my memory? As for mounting, there's some surface rust on the inside but otherwise I could believe it's never been on a wheel before. It's in great condition. The hubcap is part of a stash of NOS hubcaps found in an old cube van located in back of what was previously a Ford dealership in Piedmont, AL. It is now a junk yard run by the two sons [probably in their 60s-70s] of the previous Ford dealership owner. It is a time capsule with one service bay/pit. On the wall are v-belts and radiator hoses. When the vehicles arrived, hubcaps were inside the vehicles to prevent enroute theft. If a car was equipped with the smaller hubcaps [AKA dog dish or poverty], he made a practice of "pitching" those on a shelf and replacing them with higher profit margin full wheel covers. These were eventually placed in an old cube van where I found them. Unfortunately, the roof rusted and rain did a number on the chrome. I have ones from 1954 through the early 70s. The later aluminum ones are pristine!

SOLD for $58K!

The 1957 hubcap looks great, Matthew! Nice job! I believe I shared the story of how I came upon that. By the way, look on the backside. Do you see any grease or marks from mounting?

These are priced below what is normally seen: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-1984-1985-1986-ford-150-f250-f350-nos-head-light-doors-grill/303569586804?hash=item46ae284a74:g:kpoAAOSwqA1ewFG0 Compare with: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-F-Series-LH-RH-E0TZ-13064-Chrome-Black-Headlight-Doors-80-86/153591252102?epid=1769775048&hash=item23c2c08486:g:K6MAAOSwl-NdR4qa https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-F-Series-LH-RH-E0TZ-13064-Chrome-Black-Headlight-Doors-80-86/293565783426?epid=1769775048&hash=item4459e25d82:g:1NcAAOSwaJFerEwz https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-1980-1986-Truck-Grille-Headlight-Doors-Bezels-1981-1982-1983-1984/401861913163?epid=1323336141&hash=item5d90d62a4b:g:K0MAAOSwtCJdVyew

The speedometer and odometer will read higher as you go down in tire size.

Matthew, my son has a 1984 F150 which has been kept close to being original. It had 215/75 X 15 tires when delivered and sported 5 1/2" wide rims. The decision was made to go to 235/75 X 15 tires. I located a 1984 F150 which was 4 X 4. The owner was getting alloy rims, so I purchased the factory 6.0" wide steel rims. The rims were even date stamped as 1984, which pleased my son. The 4WD rims looked identical to the original rims except the rivets used in production were larger [stronger]. The offset was as Ford designed.The 4WD rims were originally white and were painted black as were the original [to my son's truck] rims.

Mathew, I am not the one to be able to answer your question as mine sports P215/75 X 15... But, what I can point out is that most likely, what you desire will not enhance gas mileage and I know you do try to get the best MPG [remember the mileage test in 2019?].

LMGTFY!!!

Well short of using a suppressor (silencer) which may not be legal in your area, there is a super quiet round available for your rifle that you may not be aware of. It’s called the 22 CB Cap (short for “conical ball cap”). While not as powerful or accurate over long range as the 22LR round, it is still powerful enough to take small game such as rabbit or squirrel and provides the added advantage of being no louder than a pellet gun (and perhaps even less so). The reason for its silence is due to its minute propellant charge (in many cases it’s just the primer with no gunpowder) which results in a low muzzle velocity of around 700 ft/s (subsonic). The advantages of this kind of round in a serious survival situation (urban or wilderness) are obvious. With a report no louder than a pellet gun, the .22 CB Cap round gives you the benefit of being able to easily take smaller game — even in a congested urban area — without anyone the wiser (Pigeon anyone? yummy…). It also allows for target practice without bothering the pesky neighbors.

Someone was looking for these a few weeks ago? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-Truck-Ranger-Explorer-Door-Wiring-Harness-Boots-1988-1989-1990-F150/124129221315?hash=item1ce6ad9ac3:g:xhIAAOSwlYZeUF3R

This was found with a search [Mike's carburetors]: Hot Idle Compensator by Mike | posted in: carburetor | 0 The Hot Idle Compensator is used on some carburetors to offset enriching effects caused by percolation during hot operation. Generally used on vehicles with air conditioning. When the engine is running hot and then stopped, the fuel can boil or percolate and vaporize causing a rich condition at idle. Some Hot Idle Compensators were mounted to the carburetor: And something else: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/valve-hot-air-compensator-used-1967-1968-mercury-cougar-/-1964-1968-ford-mustang.html https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-65-66-67-68-Mustang-Galaxie-Fairlane-Torino-289-260-390-hot-idle-compensator/124144270652?hash=item1ce7933d3c:g:CjEAAOSw2d5ei1zc Apparently, GM used similar technology: https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Compensator-CarbAirator-Add-On-Hot-Idle-Vintage-Carburetor-NOS-RP-555/184249404361?hash=item2ae61ecbc9:g:AnUAAOSwov5ekheh

Welcome, Steve!

The pushrod cover plate is quite long on the 4.9L/300 engine and can be tweaked over its lifespan. An after market aluminum one [thicker/stronger] is the absolute best solution. The one on my truck leaked and even with attempting to straighten, it still leaked. I purchased a new one and applied a tacky cement to the cover and placed the gasket [i used rubber, but cork is fine as that is what Ford used] on the cover, flipped the cover so the gasket was "down" on a flat surface and placed a weight on top. This was allowed to set overnight. The next day, the cover was installed. By the way, removing the distributor cap, rotor and ignition coil makes this job easier. The leak disappeared! https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-9L-300-CID-Ford-Lifter-Pushrod-Side-Covers-Brand-New/262298060246?hash=item3d122ec5d6:g:iScAAOxyzGlQ5eTb https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-4-9L-300-CID-Lifter-Pushrod-Side-Cover/142332067702?hash=item2123a6ff76:g:2FUAAOSwk5FUv~HW

SOLD!

Birthday gift?

"Oh wow, you are making this decision easier ." Assistance is what this forum is all about!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-96-OEM-F-150-F-250-F-350-Bronco-BLUE-VINYL-Sun-Visor-Set-w-Clips-VERY-NICE/274358326545?fits=Year%3A1988%7CModel%3AF-350%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item3fe107d511:g:ljgAAOSwkB9es4Uy https://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-96-OEM-F-150-F-250-F-350-Bronco-RED-MAROON-Sun-Visor-Set-w-Clips-BEAUTIFUL/274358305551?fits=Year%3A1988%7CModel%3AF-350%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item3fe107830f:g:MrMAAOSwzQpes3ib

If you don't ask it, you will never get it!