1986F150Six

Insert a greased herring in each tail pipe?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-86-Ford-F150-F250-under-hood-light/324193018500?hash=item4b7b68e284:g:yH4AAOSwc65e379R https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-86-oem-original-Ford-F150-F250-bronco-under-hood-retractable-work-light/184364520604?hash=item2aecfb549c:g:NH4AAOSw~W9fDjHy https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-FORD-TRUCK-1980-1986-F-SERIES-F-150-UNDERHOOD-LIGHT-E2TB-15550-AA/283924850240?epid=1823017238&hash=item421b3d6640:g:XJIAAOSwOeFe8m7f

Hmmmmm! Big Blue is getting ready to ROAR!!!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Ford-F-150-1980-1986-Goodmark-Cowl-Induction-Hood-Panel/283907677484?epid=1732892830&hash=item421a375d2c:g:RDoAAOSwWG1e3xeH

Yea! Congratulations!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-Ford-F-250/333702679185?hash=item4db23aca91%3Ag%3ANF8AAOSwuBBfCb%7Es&LH_ItemCondition=3000%7C2500

Isaiah 38:5

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-1986-FORD-6-CYLINDER-TRUCK-AIR-CLEANER-SB-35880/264848729200?hash=item3daa36e470:g:hSMAAOSwcAFfTAl3 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-1986-FORD-6-CYLINDER-TRUCK-AIR-CLEANER-SB-35885/233697085772?hash=item36696e894c:g:ztkAAOSwI8VfTAmO

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nos-1982-Ford-Truck-5-8-L-351-W-Distrubutor-E2TZ-12127-U/293716443233?hash=item4462dd4061:g:86UAAOSwXO5fTp9H

Very nice!

I hope this link will work. https://fordsix.com/ci/DUIinstall.html

You can and will!

Gary will be able to assist with the 12V wire. You will benefit from using a relay. Find a ported vacuum port on the carburetor. At idle speed, there should be no vacuum and as soon as the throttle plate is opened, vacuum will be present.

Rob, to test to see if timing is the issue... next time, when the slow crank issues reveals itself, quickly disable the coil wire and then turn the key as though to start it. If the engine spins at the normal speed [faster], then it was the timing.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n72821/IMG_2370.jpg "New Scotland" license plates... nice!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-86-Ford-Tailgate-Trim-Panel-Truck-Pickup-F150-F250-F350-Bronco/313203306291?epid=1922124554&hash=item48ec5f2f33:g:~t4AAOSwXt9fTo01

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-80s-GLOVE-CONSOLE-BOX-LOCK-F150/124320562218?epid=1222948728&hash=item1cf2153c2a:g:XdQAAOSw1kpePaqq

I guess you could say fairly easy... Fairly being a relative term. I've had to turn the engine over every time to get the dizzy to drop, normally resulting in it not dropping where I wanted it(timing wise) and having to do it again... Sometimes, just slightly twisting the distributor, the shaft will go right back in place.

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-E8TZ-18B402-C-TUBE-HEATER-WATER/dp/B000O0UW86/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&hvadid=77790500323108&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=e8tz-18b402-c&qid=1598983405&sr=8-1&tag=mh0b-20 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Ford-Tube-Heater-Water-E8TZ-18B402-C-/113744442651 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mof-kt81

The oil pump drive shaft should pull out of the old distributor and click into the replacement distributor. Make sure it clicks and the pull gently to make sure it will not fall out as you install the new distributor.

When I saw the speeds you are driving, I remembered posting a review of trips to Skiatook, OK over the years and thought I would share: 2014 55-62 mph with no aerodynamic modifications = 21.93 mpg [highest tank = 23.26 mpg] 2015 55-62 mph with aerodynamic modifications = 24.13 mpg [highest tank = 25.72 mpg] 2016 55-70 mph [weighted towards 65-70] with aerodynamic modifications = 22.05 mpg [highest tank = 23.46 mpg] 2017 Missing data due to having driven another vehicle. 2018 65-75 mph [closer to 75] with no aerodynamic modifications] = 19.87 mpg [highest tank = 21.3 mpg] 2019 65-75 mph with aerodynamic modifications = 21.65 mpg [highest tank = 21.95 mpg] 2019 60-75 mph with partial [see explanation, above] aerodynamic modifications = 19.12 mpg [highest tank = 21.17 mpg]

Welcome!

Plug your ears for 1 word: https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=muffler+bearings+youTube&docid=608048282696683336&mid=2D61415BA0BB3838F05E2D61415BA0BB3838F05E&view=detail&FORM=VIRE

The "port to nowhere" is where the red silicone vacuum hose connected which supplied filtered make-up air for the tube which passes through the exhaust manifold and then through the metal tube, covered with a white insulating sleeve, which connects to the choke housing. The carburetor's internal vacuum leak, as designed, pulls heated air to the choke housing, thereby exposing the bimetallic spring to heated air, allowing the spring to do its thing and open the choke as the engine comes to operating temperature.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1987-Ford-F150-F250-Door-Lock-Switch-E1TZ-1022169-A/283994079552?epid=1122132163&hash=item421f5dc140:g:0EUAAOSw5d5fSu38