Gary Lewis

Ahhh, got it. Both are 3.08's. Yes, 3.55's will give you some more zing, but it'll hurt the MPG - unless you have an OD transmission, and I don't know as you don't have that in your signature. But 3.55's work nicely with an OD tranny.

And, today I added the 1980 Accessories catalog.

Yes, you can easily pull the vacuum from the HVAC system. In the pic below you can see the hose coming from the plastic manifold on the firewall to the tee/check valve. If you pull the hose off the tee/check valve and plug it that will do it. But, be careful as the little plastic hoses are usually brittle.

Better confirm what gears you have in the rear. Put both wheels in the air and turn the driveshaft while counting tire revolutions.

I didn't search for them, but have done a lot of part number searching. Some people don't put the "-" in, and some do. And, I force Google to give me "verbatim" results, meaning that it has to have that # in it rather than something close. Then, when I get to a @#$%^&* site that just takes you to a page with hundreds of other #'s, I hit Control-F and search on that page for the number. Hope that helps.

That's a good point. Our member Steve/FoxFord33 has a 1993 F-150 XLT Super-Cab 5.0 EFI 2WD E4OD 8.8" with 3.55 gears. He recently came over and tried out my heavy car hauler trailer and I was impressed by how well it towed it. In 3rd gear it accelerated up a steep hill very nicely. And the AOD is similar to the E4OD, although 1st and 2nd are taller so starting wouldn't be as easy: Gear AOD E4OD 1st: 2.4 2.71 2nd: 1.46 1.54 3rd: 1.00 1.00 O/D 0.67 0.71 I think the key is the rear gears.

Sorry, I assumed you knew that the * indicates what follows is a Motorcraft part #. But you had no way of knowing that. Yes, you have it figured out! (And, you figured out how to post snippets from the documentation. Well done. )

Like Bill, I'm going with Ford's EEC-V EFI system. But I'm not saying that to dissuade you from going aftermarket. Just to set the stage for what else I'm going to say. First, my goal is to create a system that can be maintained for many years, if not decades. I'm not just building my trucks for my own use, but for my kids and, more importantly, grandkids. Given that, I've thought about most, if not all, of my changes in that light. For instance, when thinking about the fuel system I laid the '85 fuel pump/sender combo next to the later EFI pump and realized that I could graft the EFI pump onto the '85 pump/sender and have an EFI-capable system. But then I also realized that when, not if, the pump or sender failed my offspring would have to do what I've done, and they aren't likely to be able to do that. That brought me back to just getting the pump/sender combo for an EFI system, but that really means the 85-86 one, and it isn't readily available and is expensive. Plus, I wanted dual tanks and the reservoir/valve combo for the '85/85 EFI systems is even harder to find and more expensive, probably due to the limited # of years it was used. And that's today - what will it be like in another 10 years when parts start failing? That didn't make much sense, so with the help of others on here, inc Bill, I came to the conclusion that going with the later Fuel Delivery Modules is the way to go. They aren't terribly expensive, they cover a wide range of years so are likely to continue to be available, and they only require a wye in the supply and return lines as all the switching is done in the in-tank FDM. But, as was pointed out, the sending units from a later truck are quite different than the ones for a Bullnose. In fact, they are both backwards as well as have a different range. The Bullnose gauges require 10 ohms to send them to full scale and 73 ohms to read at the bottom of the scale, whereas Bricknose and later gauges require 145 ohms for full scale and 22.5 ohms for bottom of the scale. So not only will they read backwards but when the tank is roughly half full (73 ohms) the Bullnose gauge will show Empty. And when the tank is empty (22.5 ohms) the Bullnose gauge will show 1/2 full. (The EVTM says that you can check the gauge by placing a 22 ohm resistor in the circuit and it should read 1/2.) Given that, I've designed an Arduino system that will translate. You can read about that in this thread (Bricknose Sender to Bullnose Gauge Interface) and you'll see that I've written the code and it works. But I've not built the system as I've not gotten to that point. However, I will 'cause I'll have two trucks that require it. Having said that, Ray/NotEnoughTrucks has come up with a simpler way to do the translation. However, he dropped off the radar before giving us the schematic and details awa the promised video. (But his way doesn't have the Arduino's capability of reading and displaying lots of other things like transmission temp, battery voltage, etc. Nor can it sound an alarm when one of those measurements gets out of bounds.) In any event, I am just saying that there are lots of ways to skin a cat, so to speak, but depending on your long-term plans some might be better than others.

And, to show you the difference, this is a response to the same post via the forum, meaning not via email. No baggage and nothing to delete. As for that pie, having lived in the corner of PA, right next to DE, I've been to Lancaster many, many times. And, I've tried many of the Dutch foods, including having gone to Mecca - the Shady Maple. But I never tried that pie. It just never sounded appealing.

Rodeoclown - This is your thread and you can respond how you'd like. But you should know that responding via email brings with it a LOT of baggage unless you delete it before you hit Send. And, when you post in other's threads they may not appreciate all of that baggage. To get rid of the baggage click the three dots, which I've circled in the screenshot below. That will open up the response and show you all of the baggage that will come with it. Simply highlight it all and hit delete before you hit Send. And to show you what the baggage is in this case, I've turned it red - and will then edit my response and delete it after you've seen it. 😇 On Sun, Apr 5, 2020 at 6:03 AM Rodeoclown [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

Yes, as Jim said, U is Bronco. And F is the fullsized pickup and E is the Econoline vans. As for the #'s, have you looked at the page I mentioned in:

I believe these were the last two of what I sent you? If so, you completed a huge chunk of what was missing from the literature section, I think the 1980 section was the least complete of all the years. I think I have the 1980 Accessories catalog and the '95 and '96 F-Series brochures left. Thinking of placing the later brochures in Other Publications. Yes?

The later fuel system with the Fuel Delivery Modules, which contain the pump, sender, and valving, is a better system. And when I get my Arduino computer system built it'll translate from that sender to the Bullnose gauge. Anyway, I'm following this thread.....

I found a listing for it as the O2 sensor wire.

And, this is near York, PA? Ok, let me think about what is hard to find: Underhood tool box: If there's one of those, grab it as well as the brackets to which it attaches Fog Lamp Bezel & Switch: There was an option of fog or driving lamps, and the switch for them was to the left of the steering column. The switch itself is made of unobtanium, and the bezel through which it goes is hard to find. Bull Bar: There was an option for a bull bar that bolted to the front bumper. There are options available for them now, in fact one of the guys on here is making them. But an original is hard to find. Accessories: Go to the Documentation/Accessories pick in the menu and there are several things that were available but are hard to find. Interior trim: If the plastic trim is good you might want to grab any and all. In the states with lots of sunshine it has crumbled. Tach cluster: If any of the trucks have a tachometer grab the whole instrument cluster Instrument & Radio Bezels: If these are good grab them as good ones are hard to find. But if they are cut up, as the radio bezels are frequently, pass. Power Mirrors: There was an option for these, but they are RARE. So if you find them, get them and the wires and switches. Flareside Fenders: These are getting hard to find. I'm sure the others will chime in with other things I've forgotten.

Ok, you are now on the map. But I know quite well where York is. Used to live between Hockessin, DE and Kennett Sq, PA and have been through York several times.

I think there are two vacuum motors back that. Best case one of the hoses is off. Worst case is that one of the motors has a split diaphragm. Anyway, take a look at this page from the 1981 EVTM: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/heating-ventilation--air-conditioning.html. And with a light go up under the dash and check the hoses. Also, you might remove the glove compartment liner as that gives you a view into that area that is hard to get otherwise.

Looks good! Are you port matching?

That's in the spirit of the forum. And there's no wrong place to post it.

We file on-line and have the put the money directly into our bank account. Both state and federal are in the bank. So they have our banking info.

And, I forgot to say that I put a higher-resolution copy of that illustration on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Battery Cables.

Dave - That helps. Lets see if this helps. If there are more questions, please ask.

Dave - The letters look GREAT! And they are reflective as well. Cool! On the pets, I'm glad someone likes cats. I'm a dog person.

Welcome! Where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I knew the city and state.

Dane - You'll like having the shop manuals. Angelo - Do you have a before and after shot on the ports?