Gary Lewis

Why would someone spend that much on a new truck and put it in storage? It is a nice truck, but nothing special. So why the high price? A Lightning maybe, but....

Nice truck. I'm not into lifts nor scoops on hoods, but I still like it. It is a shame there isn't more detail about it in the advert.

That's a bad feeling. Been there, felt that. Don't know if you need to keep calling, need to go by and talk to him, or if the damage is already done. In my experience it has always worked out well. It was something like he's hunkered down and someone else used his shop. Or he just doesn't use the phone. Or somesuch. So hang in there, I bet it will work out.

Ahhh! That makes sense. But owner's guides are problematic. Ford did them two different ways - long sheets of paper stapled in the middle, and narrow sheets of paper glued on the edge. I've given up scanning long sheets of paper since they have 4 different pages on them and it is a mess getting them sorted and cropped. So, please don't send something that you don't want me to cut up in order to scan it.

Ratdude - That looks good. Should fix things up nicely. Dee - Well done. But how are you removing and replacing the ring gear? I was able to move mine by heating it with a MAPP gas torch, but didn't try to take it all the way off.

I can add them if you want to scan them - 300 dpi please. Or, send them to me and I'll scan them. But, if the '96 is an F-Series brochure Shaun sent me one of those.

Well, today was not the day for the later brochures. It was the day for the 1985 cross-reference catalog. The thing that lets you find the ID # that is on most parts and determine the part number. But, it is 1060 pages long and took awhile to pull each of those pages out w/o ripping them, and then scan them. I got that done, and I scanned into several files. But the total file size is ~1.6Gb. I'm OCR'ing the files now, but that's a bit slow, running about 30 seconds per page. You might ask why, and it might have to do with there being 630 part numbers and ID numbers on each page. Tomorrow I'll have to see how to organize things into manageable file sizes.

I'm using the later battery tray on the right/passenger's side. And the battery is fully "seated" in the tray. Speaking of the battery, it is 13" long, 6 3/4" wide, and 8" high to top of case and 9" to top of posts. But, as said, it is fully seated in the tray, so it isn't too long. It is mainly that the later tray sits slightly above the fender liner and not below, so the battery sits maybe 1/2" higher. But by swapping it end-for-end , which places the negative post near the fender & hood, I think it'll be fine. However, I'll pull the battery again and see if there is any way to drop the tray a bit. Anything would help. But the way the hood is shaped the positive post will be far from it after turning the battery. In fact, it appears that my battery hold down idea will also clear. Looks like I'll start making new cables tomorrow.

Did we talk about the pushrod between the master and booster? It is adjustable and if it got unadjusted it'll cause real problems. Look at the page here: Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then the Master Cylinders & Boosters tab and then the Push Rod Adjustment tab. The adjustment is delicate - to short and the pedal height is poor, and too long and the brakes drag and get hot.

I talked to my friend this morning. His sister and her husband who both had Covid-19 have completed their quarantine and have both returned to work. Everyone that was around them has been tested and came back clear, so it looks like it ended with them in this case. We are up to about 300 cases here now, but still only 4 people in hospital(s). They are starting to get more serious about the lockdown here...more restrictions on the way. I wish there was better data about what is going on, who is affected, etc. Good to see that they've recovered. What data are you looking for? Have you seen the Johns Hopkins map?

Ok, you are on the map. And I won't ask about the handle.

Chris - You've run afoul of the lack of smarts this, and many forums have. They don't read the camera orientation data in the pic, so if you take a pic with the phone upside down, while it looks good on the phone it won't on here. However, if you open the file in a photo editing app it will usually re-orient the pic, and if you then save it from the app it'll be right on here. Or, you can use some HTML code to reorient it, which I've done below. The way to do that is explained on this page: Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.

Shaun - I didn't notice how close it was. Next time, tell me! The battery I'm trying to "cram" in there is an Odyssey Extreme 31M PC-2150. It is the battery that came with the truck, and appears to have a lot of life in it. And with the economy taking a dive I'm trying to keep my costs down. Yes, if I were to buy a new battery I'd probably go with a Group 65 flange-mount. But right now I don't want to spend the money if I don't need to do so. Given that, I'll spend some time creating a hold down to allow me to use this battery since I have the material. But, reversing the battery looks to be a requirement, so that's gotta happen, and new cables made.

I'm indirectly self-quarantined due to my position at work putting me in indirect contact with SARS-CoV-2 positive patients. I'm safe for now, but I have a similar chance of contracting the virus (compared to Nursing staff) since I touch the same things Nurses do. I am doing my part by reducing my travel to just the gas station, work, and grocery store (when absolutely necessary) to hopefully prevent any spread should I contract it. I'm washing my hands thoroughly every chance I get, using alcohol based hand rub every time I touch surfaces other people touch, wearing a mask my entire shift, and limiting my exposure to the best of my ability but we all know that's never a guarantee. Good idea, Shaun, to bring the discussion here. I appreciate your self-quarantining. Let's just say I'm doing my best to stay safe awa keep everyone else safe. Here's what I did this morning to send a package: This is really SERIOUS STUFF, and I not only want me to be safe, I want my friend Shannon at Hitchin Post to be safe. We had a conversation about that when she asked me to sign the receipt. I asked her to sign for me, which she did, and thanked me 'cause she didn't have to clean the pen.

But, in spite of the upper of having the headers in-house I'm a bit .... perplexed. It started with taking a pic of this plastic battery hold down that doesn't fit, as shown below. My batteries have a step at the top for which this hold down doesn't allow. So I then put the piece of 3" aluminum channel in place to show what I'm thinking about for a hold down. And, while doing that I realized that the new battery tray's ears for the J-bolts are not offset like the old ones are. So instead of angling the way the plastic hold down does I need one to go straight back, like this: However, that led to checking if the channel laid that way would clear the hood. As it turns out, it will. But, in doing so I realized that the positive battery post might not, and if it does it will be CLOSE! So, now the battery needs to be swapped end for end, which means the original negative cable is too short. And the new positive cable is probably too long. I think I'm going to do some scanning and let this sink in.

Well, we've probably hijacked this thread enough now, so I'll pass on asking more 'bout the outboards. But I like your rig. As for auto/truck plugs, the racing guys certainly have indexed them.

Ok, it must be Christmas in April. These L&L's came from Jet-Hot today: Here's a shot from the piston's point of view showing the inside coating: And here's the muffler's view:

Vinny - Shuan lives right there in Ocala. Don't know if y'all want to meet, safely, but if you do please post a pic. On the boat, I looked that up and it looks like fun. As for the engines, I've been around the 90/115/140 Johnrudes a lot. Are yours of the earlier V-4 variety? But pulling that w/a Jeep's short wheelbase I can certainly understand the desire to find an F250. But, Blue pulls our 25' SeaRay very nicely. Stay safe!

Yep, that looks like it might be the guy. From the '73-79 car MPC:

Looks like I'm a bit late to the party. But the applications for 3D544 should also be for 3E543. I think.

The part number shows that part was used starting in 1971 on cars and trucks. (The D means 70's, the 1 means 1970 +1, and the A means the Ford line of cars - not trucks, not Pintos, not Merc's, just the large Fords.) Here's what the master parts catalogs show for usage: 3D544 LEVER (STEERING COLUMN RELEASE) 73/78 A - - w/tilt wheel 73 F - - w/tilt wheel 76/ G - - w/tilt wheel 74/ S - - w/tilt wheel 78/ U - - w/tilt wheel 78/ EI00/350 - - w/tilt wheel FI00/350 - - w/tilt wheel 80/ E-F-U100/350,F(Super Duty) 89 F53 — Stripped Chassis And here's how to translate the A and F and G, etc: VEHICLES and RELATED CATALOG CODES CATALOG CODES and RELATED VEHICLES Bronco U A Ford Fairmont P B Torino, LTD II Fiesta X F Mustang Ford A G Granada Granada G L Pinto LTD II B P Maverick Maverick P P Fairmont Mustang F S Thunderbird Pinto L U Bronco Thunderbird S X Fiesta Torino B So, that might help you find a used part. But, for finding what the part number for the clip is, I'm stuck. As you've noticed, the illustration doesn't appear to show it. Would it help if I posted the illustrations for those other applications? Perhaps one of them shows it?

^^x2 But I used two of the plastic pry bars, one from the glass side to start and one from the cowl side to spread the load.

Is it 3E716 in this illustration from page Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns and the Illustrations tab? If not, what # is it? I should be able to find the full part number and you may be able to find a source.

We aren't picky about the posting. But if you can rescue a bunch of hard to find parts, we'll vote you most popular person of the month. And an underhood tool box is one of those. But, don't forget the brackets for it. They are necessary. And the bolts are icing on the cake. That truck has to have been highly optioned, so look it over closely for things like the fog light switch & bezel. Oh yes, the digital clock. And the holy grail - the behind the seat gun storage.