Gary Lewis

You are on a ROLL! Well done! I was just looking at Big Blue's paint yesterday thinking "I really need to buff that out." Then I realized I need an exhaust system, transfer case & driveshafts, cooling system, etc more. So I guess the paint will have to wait.

You might be able to find a used fuse box if that's the problem. But you ought to check to ensure it is the fuse box and not the wires.

Looking good, Cameron. And glad the wiper write up helped.

We are here to help, and we'll get through it together.

Sounds like you got it cleaned out, which is good. But should you have another problem like that you might use an IR thermometer on the thermostat housing.

Yes, you can do that. But, I hope you are doing a good job with the connectors. Like soldering and heat shrink tubing.

Welcome. But I don't know that you are going to find an aftermarket fuse block and harness that is plug & play. So, what is wrong with your harness?

Welcome! Where are you in Kentucky? We have other members there, and have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) so I'd be happy to add you if I had a city. But, it would help us help you if we had info about your truck in a signature. And, maybe your name?

Yes, you can eliminate C121, or at least the portion for the backup light circuit. The connectors are there so that Ford could put one transmission on one truck and another in the next truck, plugging the right harness into those connectors. So you don't really need them. Just tap into the wires and extend them to the switch.

What you have in your hand is C121 from the schematic below. And the loop is the start circuit because you have a manual transmission. But that connector also serves the backup light wiring, which is pink/orange to the backup light switch, and black/pink after the switch. Does that help?

Welcome! Glad you joined. PR, as in Puerto Rico? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a city. Patch work on the electrical system sounds familiar. Been doing some of that on Big Blue. Guess you know we have all the wiring on the page here: Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1986 EVTM. Hope you'll start a thread in the main section and show us some pics. Or, post some here?

86/ F-U150/350 E6TZ 14524-D R.H.-smoke-use with "XLT" trim

I can confirm that it is a Hub (Shift Collar) and that it was used in some New Process transmissions. But, there were several different ones of these and I have no idea what the differences are.

That's progress, and as Jim says, "Progress is good!"

The adjustment is the screw sticking out the top with a nut around it. BUT, it is not meant to be adjusted in the field. It was set at the factory and is not supposed to be touched. However, if you mark where the adjustment is, precisely, so you can get back to it you can see what you think. But only go in really small increments. In my case 1/16th of a turn was enough to make a big difference. And then I put it back. The box was worn such that I either had slop or no feel, and there wasn't anything in between. And, if you go too far you can crack the box. But take it easy and see what you think.

You don't sound militant or harsh at all. And I like the planning. Thinking things through and asking others for thoughts is the best way to get a well thought out product. I see no problem with your plan, although you didn't state what cam you plan to use. As for the dizzy, I recommend you talk to Scott Johnston, aka Scotty The Mad Porter, at Parkland Performance. He can either re-curve yours or sell you a new one. Why? Because if you aren't going to run EGR then whatever dizzy you have won't be curved correctly. EGR requires a lot of advance during high vacuum 'cause the inert gas slows the combustion process. But if you eliminate the EGR then you'll have too much timing during part throttle/high vacuum moments and are likely to have pinging if not detonation. I turned to Scotty to get my dizzy re-curved and discovered that while he will re-curve a worn unit, he can have a new properly-curved unit on my doorstep $200. He charges $110 to do the curving and it'll cost you at least $15 to ship it to him. Then there's a new rotor, adapter, and cap which you should have. And now you are into the same bucks a new dizzy costs. You tell Scotty what components you are using and he dials it in to match.

Congrat's! Well done.

And, by the way, I don't recommend reman'd boxes. I got lucky, but a lot of guys haven't. There's a spot in the front of the cast iron box which is used as a bushing for the shaft. But it wears, and remanufacturers don't replace it. They just check for how badly it is worn and if it is past their acceptable limit then they use it. Instead, I'd recommend a box that has been bored out and a bearing put in to replace the worn spot. But I only know of two outfits do that: Redhead and Bluetop. However the rumor is that Redhead got too big for its britches and their product and customer service went south. So one of the guys split off and started Bluetop, which has good reviews.

Dad's truck came with a front and rear sway bar, and it drove and handled very very well. I drove it to DE from OK with a FULL load of furniture in the bed with no worries. And it drove very easily. But other trucks I've had weren't as easy to drive. One, the '82 Explorer, was initially very difficult to drive. And I finally figured out what the problem was - the steering box. It was badly worn and the slop in the wheel kept you turning back and forth to "catch" it. So I tightened the adjustment on the box up about 1/16 of a turn, and went from having to catch it to having no feel. Basically, I discovered that a worn box is done. D.O.N.E It can be adjusted, but it won't drive right. I finally replaced the box with a Cardone reman'd unit and it made the truck drive as well as Dad's. It didn't handle as well, which I attributed to the sway bars, but it drove easily. So, having gone over your list, I see the steering box isn't included. Does it have any slop? And, has someone adjusted the setting on it?

The advert says it is correct for a 1984, but it is only correct for 1985 & 6, as shown below. However, I don't think I've ever seen one like it with a connector like that on the end. 85/86 F-U F250/350 100/350 - - All engines E4TZ 14303-A marked #E4TB 14303-AA

Well, their part # of "E0TZ-17285" isn't a complete part number. Has to have a suffix to be complete. But, there are three E0TZ 17285 gears: -A; -B; and, you guessed it, -C. However they have 9, 8, and 7 teeth, in that order. Not 6, like the one in the advert has. And, they are red, tan, and blue, in that order. Not green. The only green one is D0TZ 17285-A, and it does have 6 teeth. And it was used on 4-speed manual transmissions, which includes the NP435, but with 3.73 to 4.56 gears. So, this is surely D0TZ 17285-A, and not either of the partial part numbers the seller posted.

Last post was Jan 28th. Email him?

That's a lot of money for a cardboard liner. I'd rather have the later plastic one, but if you have to have one... But thanks for finding it.

Agreed! I'm wondering if the LMC unit is the same as this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ETOVZM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_.aXLEb69E2WT1 Rockauto only has the 6 pin/6 port options. Is the fuel line size 8mm? 8mm is about 5/16" and the hoses are in inches. But that may be correct. Not sure about the fuel valve.

As Dad would have said..... Or, thinking of it another way, people have said I'd be tall if I didn't have so much turned under.